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  1. #1
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    I give up on my Epic

    After 4 rides I still can't get the creaking sound out of the rear end of my 2012 Epic 29er carbon comp with Stan's Crest wheels. I have turned greased and cleaned every bolt and nut and nipple that can be turned including but not limited to:

    All rear wheel spoke nipples
    All rear linkages
    crank bolt
    cassette nut
    derailleur connection
    saddle connection
    seat clamp

    There is nothing left to do but live with the noise.

  2. #2
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    Get used to it I dont have an Epic but my old 26er HT sound like it will die any second, but still going strong after 4 years of abuse Every mtb will make strange noises hehe

  3. #3
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    Grease the rear axle if not done already.

  4. #4
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    I just found out that my creaking noise on my epic s works came from my seat post. Try adjusting your seatpost all the way down and see if noise goes away.

  5. #5
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    Drop it off at your trusted LBS and let them figure it out. See if they can throw a different rear wheel on there to see if the creaking sound is actually related to the rear wheel in the first place.
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  6. #6
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    I give up on my Epic

    I'm sure you can find where the creaking is coming from. It can take a bit of time though.

    On that list you didn't mention checking the bottom bracket (PF30 bottom brackets are notorious for having creaking issues), chainring bolts or the seatpost.

  7. #7
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    I was having a similar problem on my Camber. Cleaned, tightened, greased, and eventually found out that I had a broken axle in my Charger Pro rear wheel. Sun Ringlé replaced the axle, and now we're good to go.

    Then the headset started creaking.

    Sorted that out though, and for the next week or so, it'll be quiet.

  8. #8
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    I give up on my Epic

    If you suspect it could be the rear suspension have you removed the rear shock and then cycled the suspension through its travel by hand to see if you can identify any clicks or notchiness from the bearings?

  9. #9
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    Check seat post and quick releases...

  10. #10
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    i'm in the process of finding creaks for my 2012 s works epic 29er. this all started happening when i re installed my fork and brain shock after having them serviced for this riding season.

    -i had loose pivots,
    -had to clean and re apply carbon paste for the seatpost.
    -cleaned and re installed the seat. (clean rails, regrease cups that go into seatpost)

    there was some else creaking that i couldn't figure out, but i think it's also the brain cable rubbing against my frame. i'm still trying to figure out how to fix this. if i use all my travel, i think the brain cable moves a little bit, then wants to go back to it's original state and starts creaking.

    so i would check out brain cable as well.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    If you suspect it could be the rear suspension have you removed the rear shock and then cycled the suspension through its travel by hand to see if you can identify any clicks or notchiness from the bearings?
    Funny, that was the first thing I did. Yes, I did, and the rear triangle operated with no issues

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    Drop it off at your trusted LBS and let them figure it out. See if they can throw a different rear wheel on there to see if the creaking sound is actually related to the rear wheel in the first place.
    I have a rear wheel I can swap in order to test this theory, Will do that next

  13. #13
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    I give up on my Epic

    Quote Originally Posted by vtwinracersp2 View Post
    i'm in the process of finding creaks for my 2012 s works epic 29er.

    there was some else creaking that i couldn't figure out, but i think it's also the brain cable rubbing against my frame. i'm still trying to figure out how to fix this. if i use all my travel, i think the brain cable moves a little bit, then wants to go back to it's original state and starts creaking.

    so i would check out brain cable as well.
    The way to find what's creaking is by a process of elimination. Does it happen only whilst pedalling or freewheeling? Worse on bumps or smooth ground? Sitting or standing? etc. By narrowing down the possibilities it makes it easier to spot what's wrong.

    The 2011 Epic had clearance issues between the brain hose and seattube. On the 2012 and later frames it was re-designed so there should be room and no rubbing. If you've had the brain shock off the frame and the brain hose is touching the seat tube I'd double check that it's assembled properly. It's possible to re-assemble it with the brain hose and metal guide in the wrong place. I did that last year on my 2012 Epic before realising my mistake.

    The other area to look at if you think it's a hose rubbing is the rear disc brake hose. Where it touches the inside of the chainstay the hose can rub with every pedal stroke, as the suspension bobs a little.

  14. #14
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    Check the cassette for correct tightening. Spent a month unsuccessfully chasing BB/pedal issues causing creaking only to find that it all went away when I swapped rear wheels. The cassette was loose on my Roval's...

  15. #15
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    ******UPDATE***********UPDATE*************UPDATE!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Took a rear wheel (stans crest) off another one of my bikes (Stumpjumer 29er) and put it on my Epic 29er and guess what? The creek is history! Bike ran flawless today. I left the cassette on the stumpy wheel since it was 10 speed but had to move the rotor off the Epic rear wheel to the Stumpy's rear wheel.

    My theory is as follows:

    The Epic has a much harder tail than my Stumpy or Camber so the wheel is going to be the receiver of more forces. Spokes loosened up and the creeking began. I will be dropping off the wheel to my LBS this week to have it tightened/trued. Funny thing is it not out of true at all and spins nice. Thank for all the suggestions..

    Incidentally, you could (in addition to hearing it) feel the creek vibration coming up the crank arm to my cleat/shoe. That was a tough one to figure out..

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    If you've had the brain shock off the frame and the brain hose is touching the seat tube I'd double check that it's assembled properly. It's possible to re-assemble it with the brain hose and metal guide in the wrong place. I did that last year on my 2012 Epic before realising my mistake.
    what did you do wrong and what is the correct way?

  17. #17
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    I put the metal guide that sits next to the shock and directs the hose on the wrong side of the shock body. It took me ages to eventually work out what had gone wrong.

    I actually took some photos of it fitted incorrectly at the time, which are attached below (They were intended for an MTBR post that was rapidly deleted once I realised what had happened ).

    Incorrect hose fitting. You can see how much the metal hose is bent to get it to fit.



    Compromised hose clearance with guide on wrong side. The hose was pressed against the S-link.



    This is the correct hose and guide fitting for a 2012 or 2013 Epic.


  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    This is the correct hose and guide fitting for a 2012 or 2013 Epic.

    Yes, the documentation doesn't help with the fitting of the spacers and washers for the lower shock mount either. The first time I serviced the unit I hadn't checked the docs and thought I would be OK, but found out the hard way that it wasn't so. You have to manage the various inputs until you are 100% sure that the Brain hose will not foul the seat tube.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumper61 View Post
    ******UPDATE***********UPDATE*************UPDATE!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Took a rear wheel (stans crest) off another one of my bikes (Stumpjumer 29er) and put it on my Epic 29er and guess what? The creek is history! Bike ran flawless today. I left the cassette on the stumpy wheel since it was 10 speed but had to move the rotor off the Epic rear wheel to the Stumpy's rear wheel.

    My theory is as follows:

    The Epic has a much harder tail than my Stumpy or Camber so the wheel is going to be the receiver of more forces. Spokes loosened up and the creeking began. I will be dropping off the wheel to my LBS this week to have it tightened/trued. Funny thing is it not out of true at all and spins nice. Thank for all the suggestions..

    Incidentally, you could (in addition to hearing it) feel the creek vibration coming up the crank arm to my cleat/shoe. That was a tough one to figure out..
    Good to hear. Before you pay to get the wheel trued I would just grease the thru axle and see what happens. I had a creak the same as you and the contact points of wheel/thru axle were so dry it caused a creak. It might be that the Stans wheel just has a bit more grease inside the axle which stops the creak.

  20. #20
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    I give up on my Epic

    Regarding creaks and cable rub when the suspension is fully compressed - I meant to add that one way to test for this is to turn the blue brain dial fully counter clockwise to full open, let all the air out of the rear shock and then push down on the saddle to get full travel.

    By doing that you can watch what happens to the cables as the suspension compresses, which should show if any cables are moving out of position. With the loop of gear and brake cables that run beneath the bottom bracket on a current Specialized FSR frame the cables need to be long enough that they don't pull tight and touch the frame when the rear suspension is fully compressed. If they do touch the frame at full compression they can creak. If left untreated cable rub will wear deep grooves into the frame itself over time.

    This link about cable wear on the bottom bracket shell and chainstay is a good example.

    SWorks Epic cable wear at bottom bracket

    .

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