Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 45
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    216

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    I've tried my Google Fu and I'm not coming up with much here.

    Just got a 2013 Stumpjumper Comp 29 HT for my wife (second hand so no warranty) and the rear hub sounds terrible. It rolls but sounds gritty and as if there is no grease in it or it is already shot. ** I should add that I've found a lot of complaining of these hubs being poor quality, but no info on how to remedy the issue.

    I'm looking for two things. A repair manual or any help on dis-assembly so that I can service it myself to try to salvage...or help finding the exact dimensions of the hub so I could buy an upgrade/replacement hub and lace it up with the same spokes to keep costs down. I've heard that the X-9 hubs can be swapped in...any others that folks know off hand? She gets jealous of the clicks from my Hope hub so loud is OK.

    Thanks for any help!

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sgtjim57's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    451
    I saw a post somewhere that showed a hole drilled into the hub to allow lubricant to be added. I have had one fail on my Stumpjumper and the LBS replaced it at my cost so no warranty is really not an issue. I also have one on my Camber that I am awaiting the same issue to occur somewhere down the road since they are notorious for failure. Not sure if that post is still here but you are welcome to search for it. I think replacement is the best option, go to LBS and just order one.

    Searched for the post, long gone. Maybe the original poster will post again. I do know he removed the hub, drilled a small hole into it, added a certain oil and then plugged the hole with something. Can't remember what, but if it's bad how much damage can you really do. I think the part itself is a remove and replace type of part. Sealed and un-serviceable.
    2013 Specialized Carbon Camber Pro 29er (Warranty frame and other stuff)
    2011 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp 29er

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    216
    Oh I did find this (Specialized Hi Lo 142+ hub) I wasn't looking at the 142+ hub threads because I thought this one was a 135mm. Maybe this is worth a try, but I might get a quote from the LBS on a replacement hub first. I have built wheels before so if I know what hub would be a "drop in" replacement allowing me to reuse the spokes I would go that route. The bike supposedly had less than 10 rides on it and judging by tire wear and such it looks to be true. Shame those hubs are so crappy.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sgtjim57's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    451
    That's the link.
    2013 Specialized Carbon Camber Pro 29er (Warranty frame and other stuff)
    2011 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp 29er

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    63
    Keep it clean and greased and it will last. That has been my experience anyway.


    Specialized 142+ rear hub

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13
    I have a '12 SJ FSR comp 29er, and I had the exact same issue with my rear wheel. It rolled fine, but sounded like the bearings had run dry. I took it to the LBS where I bought the bike, and the owner got in touch with Specialized. While they would not say that there was a problem with the hubs, my LBS was supplied with a brand new hub, laced to a rim, so all I had to do was remount my tire. Two days later, I was back on the trails! New hub works amazing, even sounds like a higher quality one (a bit louder when freewheeling)

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Devastazione's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    984
    Honestly why do you want to bother in fixing those hubs ? If you can take advantage of your LBS in giving you a warranty replacement then go ahead,but I would seriously consider in replacing the whole thing with a more serious and reilable rim,it will make a day a night difference.
    This warranty thing for these hubs tells Specialized must have of some sort of cheap contract with a chinese sub contractor. These Hi Lo hubs just keep crumbling apart after a few ridesno matter how good you look after them,period. It's a lessons we have to take from Specialized : you don't want these Hi Lo hubs ? Buy Sworks or Expert level...

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    216
    Bought the bike second hand, can't imagine the Specialized dealer will do anything for me. Can check with the bike shop though.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    18
    To service this hub you will need a tool like the one I fabricated, also a 14mm allen key is required to remove the freehub from the wheel. Whoever is interested in this tool can email me at logofreak@shaw.ca

    I will make them in 10 piece batches, I'm not making these to make money I just want to help other people wanting to maintain these hubs by themselves.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1721.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1727.jpg
    Last edited by LogoFreak; 11-20-2013 at 11:13 AM.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    I may do a small batch of them to sell.

    Cheers
    I'd be interested in the tool. How much do you think you'll charge?

    Also is it hard to get the free hub body off the hub?

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    216
    This is great, thank you! Also interested in the tool (looks like you ground down a socket).

    I had pulled on the free hub body a bit and it didn't seem to come off easily. Maybe I just wasn't forceful enough.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    18
    You need a 14mm Allen key to remove the freehub, just stick it in from the non-drive side and unscrew it. The tool is a 7/8 socket milled to spec. There's 2 people on the list so far, 8 more and I can make a batch.

  13. #13
    act
    act is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: act's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    7
    allo-- if not too costly, i'd take one. please.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    67
    Just throw those hubs in the garbage. Seriously.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    216

    Re: Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by sevenpedaler View Post
    Just throw those hubs in the garbage. Seriously.
    Does servicing them as pictured not fix the grinding noise? If so...why spend the money on a new hub? I'd rather spend 10 bucks and a little tinker time to keep it running than drop way more on a new hub.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    Does servicing them as pictured not fix the grinding noise? If so...why spend the money on a new hub? I'd rather spend 10 bucks and a little tinker time to keep it running than drop way more on a new hub.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    Hey, I wasn't knocking anyone fixing these paper weights. I just think they are junk and have terrible engagement and wouldn't waste any time trying to fix them with much better stuff on the market. Hope, Hadley, King, Swiss, I9 etc. I know they are more $ , but you get what you pay for.
    I have a HL on a set of wheels that I keep in case someone needs a wheel in a pinch....but they really suck.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    18
    There's really nothing wrong with the hubs if maintained, they are definitely not on par with a lot of the aftermarket hubs that are available but we are not all racers or want nothing but the best on our bikes regardless of cost. I just ride :-) This video comes to mind after reading the last few replies :-) LOL
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPVRU7jSYkQ

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    305
    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    There's really nothing wrong with the hubs if maintained, they are definitely not on par with a lot of the aftermarket hubs that are available but we are not all racers or want nothing but the best on our bikes regardless of cost. I just ride :-) This video comes to mind after reading the last few replies :-) LOL
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPVRU7jSYkQ
    Sorry, but the freehubs are not up to the task. They should have had three pawls, not two. Having them operate inside a free hub shell with a 36 tooth sprocket multiplying a chain tension that is already about three times the riders weight when standing in the small ring...well, let's just say the design was optimistic - and then collided with reality.

    The new hubs have three pawls inside a much larger outboard ring. IOW the loads are lower by maybe half and the hubshell isn't doing double duty. They are easily serviced and run on cartridge bearings. You don't have to be a racer or an equipment geek to appreciate that. And you can maintain the old ones all you want and they'll still be prone to break. I never had to walk home but that was just luck.

    Nobody will ever miss those hubs. Unless they're using them for target practice.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    11
    Count me in for the tool. How much will you charge for it?

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    18
    I'm going to be posting a proper how-to later tonight. In the meantime for those who are interested the 2 sealed bearings that are in the back wheel are a 6902 and a 1526, enduro bearings makes them and I'm sure a lot of other manufacturers as well.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    18
    Start by removing the brake rotor so it doesn't get greasy.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.32.23.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.34.23.jpg

    Remove the cassette.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.34.49.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.36.56.jpg

    On the drive side undo the axle nuts, you'll need 2 17mm cone wrenches.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.38.47.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.39.26.jpg

    To remove the axle you will have to support the non drive side with a socket large enough and hit it from the drive side with a plastic mallet.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.41.02.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.41.38.jpg

    Now to remove the freehub you will need a 14mm allen key, it needs to be at least 3in long because the bolt is accessed through the non-drive side.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.42.29.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.43.38.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.44.41.jpg

    After the bolt is removed the hub will simply pull off.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.45.03.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.45.16.jpg

    Now onto the freehub.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1760.jpg

    Remove the seal that's on the drive side of the freehub if you haven't done so already.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1762.jpg

    This will expose the drive side cartridge bearing. To get it out you'll have to tap it out with a screw driver from the opposite side, doing so you'll most likely damage the bearing. You could use a collet style bearing puller if you have one, with the price of bearings being so low I don't bother. The other method you could use is by putting the freehub into a vice (wrap the freehub in a towel so it doesn't get damaged), find a rod that is the same size as the ID of the bearing. Insert it into the bearing and gently pry in opposing directions until the bearing comes out. You can use the axle however you'll most likely damage the threads which is why I don't recommend it.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1764.jpg

    With the bearing out of the way you can now remove the cup that holds the bearing and also keep the hub in one piece. This is a left hand thread, meaning you will turn clockwise to unscrew it.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1724.jpg

    When you pull the bearing cup out do it over a container as now there's nothing holding the hub together and all the ball bearings will start to fall out. As you pull out the bearing cup under are a wave washer and 2 shims, remember in what order they came out as you'll want to reinstall them in the same order.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1726.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1732.jpg

    Remove the 2 pawls, they are simply help by a retaining ring that acts as a spring as well to keep the pawls in the open position

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1729.jpg

    This is what you should have after taking it all apart.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1730.jpg

    Clean all the parts in degreaser or solvent, I find it easiest to use a small paint brush. Brake cleaner from an automotive supplier works great to rinse the parts after you've cleaned them, just don't use it on any of the rubber seals as they could get damaged. The brake cleaner evaporates quickly which is why I like using it, just do it in a well ventilated areas as it has a strong odour.

    Re-assembly.

    Let's start with putting the pawls back on, put a light coat of wheel bearing grease and place the pawls into their slots.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1733.jpg

    Now put the retaining ring back on to hold the pawls in place, it goes inside the groove.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1734.jpg

    There are 52 ball bearings in total, 26 per side. Apply some grease to the inside race and start placing all 26 ball bearings. They will stick to the grease, but do this over a container as sometimes one or two might still fall off. Once all the ball bearings are in place slide the outer hub body onto the inner while holding the pawls closed. This is what you'll see from the drive side once you're done.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1735.jpg


    And from the non-drive side

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1737.jpg

    Now install the 2 spacers and wave washer on the drive side and place the remaining 26 ball bearings into the outer race.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1780.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1781.jpg

    You can now tighten the bearing cup with the tool, there's no preload to be worried about. The washers inside take care of the right spacing so just tighten it without using to much excessive force.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1765.jpg

    It helps if you temporarily pop the freehub onto your wheel as a method of holding it while tightening that cup.

    You will need 2 new sealed bearings to finish the job, they are both from enduro bearings even though one of them has a cane creek seal. The part numbers are HFR6006 for the drive side and 6902 (I went with the LLU Max bearings).

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1777.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1778.jpg

    Proceed by installing the drive side bearing first, you can use a socket that fits the bearing (use the back of the socket so that it supports both inner and outer races). You can either tap the bearing in (it won't sit flush with the bearing cup when all the way in) or use a table wise as a press.

    I'll finish the write up tonight....
    Last edited by LogoFreak; 01-29-2014 at 09:44 AM.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    11
    Just opened my freehub. There seem to be less than 26 bearings on one side. They measure .125 inches. Who supplies those? Anyone knows?

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    18
    How many ball bearings total do you have?

  24. #24
    act
    act is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: act's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    7
    use calipers to measure and order replacement bearings at mcMaster-carr (assume you need the bearing-quality alloy steel type and not the general purpose low-carbon type)--they sell for only a few dollars for packs of one hundred.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    11
    I believe there are 49 bearings. .125 inch diameter, with a caliper. Tks for the advice!

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. How-to: Bushing Service / Replacement
    By FM in forum Banshee Bikes
    Replies: 111
    Last Post: 03-24-2014, 11:35 AM
  2. Replies: 21
    Last Post: 07-01-2013, 11:16 PM
  3. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-06-2013, 12:22 AM
  4. bottom Bracket replacement or service?
    By gregD in forum Tooltime
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-15-2012, 08:39 AM
  5. 140 mm disc replacement
    By ryansuske in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-20-2012, 07:15 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •