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  1. #1
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    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    I've tried my Google Fu and I'm not coming up with much here.

    Just got a 2013 Stumpjumper Comp 29 HT for my wife (second hand so no warranty) and the rear hub sounds terrible. It rolls but sounds gritty and as if there is no grease in it or it is already shot. ** I should add that I've found a lot of complaining of these hubs being poor quality, but no info on how to remedy the issue.

    I'm looking for two things. A repair manual or any help on dis-assembly so that I can service it myself to try to salvage...or help finding the exact dimensions of the hub so I could buy an upgrade/replacement hub and lace it up with the same spokes to keep costs down. I've heard that the X-9 hubs can be swapped in...any others that folks know off hand? She gets jealous of the clicks from my Hope hub so loud is OK.

    Thanks for any help!

  2. #2
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    I saw a post somewhere that showed a hole drilled into the hub to allow lubricant to be added. I have had one fail on my Stumpjumper and the LBS replaced it at my cost so no warranty is really not an issue. I also have one on my Camber that I am awaiting the same issue to occur somewhere down the road since they are notorious for failure. Not sure if that post is still here but you are welcome to search for it. I think replacement is the best option, go to LBS and just order one.

    Searched for the post, long gone. Maybe the original poster will post again. I do know he removed the hub, drilled a small hole into it, added a certain oil and then plugged the hole with something. Can't remember what, but if it's bad how much damage can you really do. I think the part itself is a remove and replace type of part. Sealed and un-serviceable.
    2017 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)
    2013 Specialized Camber Carbon
    2011 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp

  3. #3
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    Oh I did find this (Specialized Hi Lo 142+ hub) I wasn't looking at the 142+ hub threads because I thought this one was a 135mm. Maybe this is worth a try, but I might get a quote from the LBS on a replacement hub first. I have built wheels before so if I know what hub would be a "drop in" replacement allowing me to reuse the spokes I would go that route. The bike supposedly had less than 10 rides on it and judging by tire wear and such it looks to be true. Shame those hubs are so crappy.

  4. #4
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    That's the link.
    2017 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)
    2013 Specialized Camber Carbon
    2011 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp

  5. #5
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    Keep it clean and greased and it will last. That has been my experience anyway.


    Specialized 142+ rear hub

  6. #6
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    I have a '12 SJ FSR comp 29er, and I had the exact same issue with my rear wheel. It rolled fine, but sounded like the bearings had run dry. I took it to the LBS where I bought the bike, and the owner got in touch with Specialized. While they would not say that there was a problem with the hubs, my LBS was supplied with a brand new hub, laced to a rim, so all I had to do was remount my tire. Two days later, I was back on the trails! New hub works amazing, even sounds like a higher quality one (a bit louder when freewheeling)

  7. #7
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    Honestly why do you want to bother in fixing those hubs ? If you can take advantage of your LBS in giving you a warranty replacement then go ahead,but I would seriously consider in replacing the whole thing with a more serious and reilable rim,it will make a day a night difference.
    This warranty thing for these hubs tells Specialized must have of some sort of cheap contract with a chinese sub contractor. These Hi Lo hubs just keep crumbling apart after a few ridesno matter how good you look after them,period. It's a lessons we have to take from Specialized : you don't want these Hi Lo hubs ? Buy Sworks or Expert level...

  8. #8
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    Bought the bike second hand, can't imagine the Specialized dealer will do anything for me. Can check with the bike shop though.

  9. #9
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    To service this hub you will need a tool like the one I fabricated, also a 14mm allen key is required to remove the freehub from the wheel. Whoever is interested in this tool can email me at logofreak@shaw.ca

    I will make them in 10 piece batches, I'm not making these to make money I just want to help other people wanting to maintain these hubs by themselves.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1721.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1727.jpg
    Last edited by LogoFreak; 11-20-2013 at 12:13 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    I may do a small batch of them to sell.

    Cheers
    I'd be interested in the tool. How much do you think you'll charge?

    Also is it hard to get the free hub body off the hub?

  11. #11
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    This is great, thank you! Also interested in the tool (looks like you ground down a socket).

    I had pulled on the free hub body a bit and it didn't seem to come off easily. Maybe I just wasn't forceful enough.

  12. #12
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    You need a 14mm Allen key to remove the freehub, just stick it in from the non-drive side and unscrew it. The tool is a 7/8 socket milled to spec. There's 2 people on the list so far, 8 more and I can make a batch.

  13. #13
    act
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    allo-- if not too costly, i'd take one. please.

  14. #14
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    Just throw those hubs in the garbage. Seriously.

  15. #15
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    Re: Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by sevenpedaler View Post
    Just throw those hubs in the garbage. Seriously.
    Does servicing them as pictured not fix the grinding noise? If so...why spend the money on a new hub? I'd rather spend 10 bucks and a little tinker time to keep it running than drop way more on a new hub.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    Does servicing them as pictured not fix the grinding noise? If so...why spend the money on a new hub? I'd rather spend 10 bucks and a little tinker time to keep it running than drop way more on a new hub.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    Hey, I wasn't knocking anyone fixing these paper weights. I just think they are junk and have terrible engagement and wouldn't waste any time trying to fix them with much better stuff on the market. Hope, Hadley, King, Swiss, I9 etc. I know they are more $ , but you get what you pay for.
    I have a HL on a set of wheels that I keep in case someone needs a wheel in a pinch....but they really suck.

  17. #17
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    There's really nothing wrong with the hubs if maintained, they are definitely not on par with a lot of the aftermarket hubs that are available but we are not all racers or want nothing but the best on our bikes regardless of cost. I just ride :-) This video comes to mind after reading the last few replies :-) LOL
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPVRU7jSYkQ

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    There's really nothing wrong with the hubs if maintained, they are definitely not on par with a lot of the aftermarket hubs that are available but we are not all racers or want nothing but the best on our bikes regardless of cost. I just ride :-) This video comes to mind after reading the last few replies :-) LOL
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPVRU7jSYkQ
    Sorry, but the freehubs are not up to the task. They should have had three pawls, not two. Having them operate inside a free hub shell with a 36 tooth sprocket multiplying a chain tension that is already about three times the riders weight when standing in the small ring...well, let's just say the design was optimistic - and then collided with reality.

    The new hubs have three pawls inside a much larger outboard ring. IOW the loads are lower by maybe half and the hubshell isn't doing double duty. They are easily serviced and run on cartridge bearings. You don't have to be a racer or an equipment geek to appreciate that. And you can maintain the old ones all you want and they'll still be prone to break. I never had to walk home but that was just luck.

    Nobody will ever miss those hubs. Unless they're using them for target practice.

  19. #19
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    Count me in for the tool. How much will you charge for it?

  20. #20
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    I'm going to be posting a proper how-to later tonight. In the meantime for those who are interested the 2 sealed bearings that are in the back wheel are a 6902 and a 1526, enduro bearings makes them and I'm sure a lot of other manufacturers as well.

  21. #21
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    Start by removing the brake rotor so it doesn't get greasy.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.32.23.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.34.23.jpg

    Remove the cassette.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.34.49.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.36.56.jpg

    On the drive side undo the axle nuts, you'll need 2 17mm cone wrenches.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.38.47.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.39.26.jpg

    To remove the axle you will have to support the non drive side with a socket large enough and hit it from the drive side with a plastic mallet.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.41.02.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.41.38.jpg

    Now to remove the freehub you will need a 14mm allen key, it needs to be at least 3in long because the bolt is accessed through the non-drive side.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.42.29.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.43.38.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.44.41.jpg

    After the bolt is removed the hub will simply pull off.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.45.03.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.45.16.jpg

    Now onto the freehub.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1760.jpg

    Remove the seal that's on the drive side of the freehub if you haven't done so already.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1762.jpg

    This will expose the drive side cartridge bearing. To get it out you'll have to tap it out with a screw driver from the opposite side, doing so you'll most likely damage the bearing. You could use a collet style bearing puller if you have one, with the price of bearings being so low I don't bother. The other method you could use is by putting the freehub into a vice (wrap the freehub in a towel so it doesn't get damaged), find a rod that is the same size as the ID of the bearing. Insert it into the bearing and gently pry in opposing directions until the bearing comes out. You can use the axle however you'll most likely damage the threads which is why I don't recommend it.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1764.jpg

    With the bearing out of the way you can now remove the cup that holds the bearing and also keep the hub in one piece. This is a left hand thread, meaning you will turn clockwise to unscrew it.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1724.jpg

    When you pull the bearing cup out do it over a container as now there's nothing holding the hub together and all the ball bearings will start to fall out. As you pull out the bearing cup under are a wave washer and 2 shims, remember in what order they came out as you'll want to reinstall them in the same order.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1726.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1732.jpg

    Remove the 2 pawls, they are simply help by a retaining ring that acts as a spring as well to keep the pawls in the open position

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1729.jpg

    This is what you should have after taking it all apart.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1730.jpg

    Clean all the parts in degreaser or solvent, I find it easiest to use a small paint brush. Brake cleaner from an automotive supplier works great to rinse the parts after you've cleaned them, just don't use it on any of the rubber seals as they could get damaged. The brake cleaner evaporates quickly which is why I like using it, just do it in a well ventilated areas as it has a strong odour.

    Re-assembly.

    Let's start with putting the pawls back on, put a light coat of wheel bearing grease and place the pawls into their slots.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1733.jpg

    Now put the retaining ring back on to hold the pawls in place, it goes inside the groove.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1734.jpg

    There are 52 ball bearings in total, 26 per side. Apply some grease to the inside race and start placing all 26 ball bearings. They will stick to the grease, but do this over a container as sometimes one or two might still fall off. Once all the ball bearings are in place slide the outer hub body onto the inner while holding the pawls closed. This is what you'll see from the drive side once you're done.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1735.jpg


    And from the non-drive side

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1737.jpg

    Now install the 2 spacers and wave washer on the drive side and place the remaining 26 ball bearings into the outer race.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1780.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1781.jpg

    You can now tighten the bearing cup with the tool, there's no preload to be worried about. The washers inside take care of the right spacing so just tighten it without using to much excessive force.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1765.jpg

    It helps if you temporarily pop the freehub onto your wheel as a method of holding it while tightening that cup.

    You will need 2 new sealed bearings to finish the job, they are both from enduro bearings even though one of them has a cane creek seal. The part numbers are HFR6006 for the drive side and 6902 (I went with the LLU Max bearings).

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1777.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1778.jpg

    Proceed by installing the drive side bearing first, you can use a socket that fits the bearing (use the back of the socket so that it supports both inner and outer races). You can either tap the bearing in (it won't sit flush with the bearing cup when all the way in) or use a table wise as a press.

    I'll finish the write up tonight....
    Last edited by LogoFreak; 01-29-2014 at 10:44 AM.

  22. #22
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    Just opened my freehub. There seem to be less than 26 bearings on one side. They measure .125 inches. Who supplies those? Anyone knows?

  23. #23
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    How many ball bearings total do you have?

  24. #24
    act
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    use calipers to measure and order replacement bearings at mcMaster-carr (assume you need the bearing-quality alloy steel type and not the general purpose low-carbon type)--they sell for only a few dollars for packs of one hundred.

  25. #25
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    I believe there are 49 bearings. .125 inch diameter, with a caliper. Tks for the advice!

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by golo777 View Post
    I believe there are 49 bearings. .125 inch diameter, with a caliper. Tks for the advice!
    You're definitely short 3 ball bearings, I recounted the ones in my hub.

  27. #27
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    Sealed Bearings: Supplier

    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    I'm going to be posting a proper how-to later tonight. In the meantime for those who are interested the 2 sealed bearings that are in the back wheel are a 6902 and a 1526, enduro bearings makes them and I'm sure a lot of other manufacturers as well.
    Logofreak: your overhaul instructions are a success,thanks. Noise is gone. I got the loose bearings from McMaster to exchange all as soon as I get the sealed bearings. Another Q: who sells the sealed bearings? Any suggested brand better than factory ones?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by golo777 View Post
    Logofreak: your overhaul instructions are a success,thanks. Noise is gone. I got the loose bearings from McMaster to exchange all as soon as I get the sealed bearings. Another Q: who sells the sealed bearings? Any suggested brand better than factory ones?
    I got my bearings from enduro, if you need the model numbers I can look the up. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.

    Cheers

  29. #29
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    I will have 9 of these tools available within the next 2 weeks. Those interested e-mail me at logofreak@shaw.ca

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    I will have 9 of these tools available within the next 2 weeks. Those interested e-mail me at logofreak@shaw.ca
    I have 7 tools available to be shipped, this is most likely the last batch I'll have for a while.

  31. #31
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    Ready to ship :-)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-image.jpg  


  32. #32
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    Where can i find Replacement pawls?

    I just took my hub apart, and found one of the pawls broken.
    does anyone know where i can buy replacement pawls for this specialized hub?

    Regarding the ball bearings, i counted 50 total. Also, the bearings appeared to be in very bad shape (tarnished). the internal condition of my hub was in bad shape, it appears that water and dirt got in.

    For replacing the ball bearings, go with the 440C material, its got higher hardness value.


    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-broken-pawl.jpg

    Alejandro

  33. #33
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    Hi Alejandro,

    I highly doubt you'll find replacement parts for it, there is absolutely no support for this freewheel from specialized. Best place would be to ask around and see if someone would sell/give you their freehub when they've upgraded so something else. Keeping this freehub clean and greased is the way to keep it working for a long time, looks like you were a little to late on the maintenance :-(

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    Logofreak, thanks for your response. i am afraid you are correct. i maybe out of luck on this one. i'll be searching online to see if i can find a used hub that i can take apart for spare parts.

    If you come across someone that has one, let me know.

    thanks

    Alejandro

  35. #35
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    Will do Alejandro

  36. #36
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    Hi a bought one of the tools logo freak has made great tool to service your hi lo freehub. Best thing is he shipped it to the uk as well
    Thanks logofreak
    Dale uk

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stav View Post
    Hi a bought one of the tools logo freak has made great tool to service your hi lo freehub. Best thing is he shipped it to the uk as well
    Thanks logofreak
    Dale uk
    You're welcome Dale, glad it worked out for you :-)

  38. #38
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    FYI, I will ship these worldwide as long as shipping is in the same amount as it is sending to North America. So far shipping to England and Brazil has been very close, if shipping is more I will simply ask you to cover the difference.

    Cheers,

    LogoFreak

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    Probable repuesto

    Quote Originally Posted by temaki69 View Post
    Logofreak, thanks for your response. i am afraid you are correct. i maybe out of luck on this one. i'll be searching online to see if i can find a used hub that i can take apart for spare parts.

    If you come across someone that has one, let me know.

    thanks

    Alejandro
    Alejandro,

    I have to change my freehub, i have a hilo 142+ and probably it what you need, ill tell you at the end of the week.

    Boris

  40. #40
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    Hey logo freak,

    Thanks again for the tool. it worked as advertised.
    One question though. After i rebuilt the hub it is emitting a strange squawk sound while under load. I know that's not much to go on but would you have any idea what the issue is?

    Also my second set all of a sudden became very tight. (spinning the cassette with your hand would result in 1/4 rotation before it stopped) can you comment on the tightness of the drive / driveside axle nuts? or anything else that might contribute to this tightness?

  41. #41
    Bos
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    I have a 2013 hilo 142 hub approximately 6 months old, in great shape. It came off of an Epic Comp. If anyone is interested, make me an offer.

  42. #42
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    Hey thanks for the great instructions LogoFreak. My 2012 Camber freewheel was on the way out but with your details I was able to make the necessary tools from old spanners etc and get the job done. It is now quiet and smooth.
    Mine had three of the shim washers instead of two. Otherwise exactly as per your instructions.
    WIll see how it goes tomorrow.

  43. #43
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    firebook... check the rubber seals. i had placed a o ring in crooked and it make the freehub tight and not spin so freely

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    Thank you for all the positive reviews guys, I still have a few tools left if anyone still wants one. I also have blank sockets left to machine a few more and will do another batch if there's demand for them.

    Cheers,

    Antoni

  45. #45
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    Antoni,

    Shoot me a PM if you still have any of the freehub tools ready to ship out.

    -Gabe

  46. #46
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    FYI
    Disassembled my stock Hi Lo rear hub on my 2013 Demo 8.
    The construction has changed since this thread was created.
    You now need two 12mm allen keys to take the hub apart (one from each side). Then you simply detach the free hub by hand. After the free hub has been removed, bash out the axle from the non drive side with a soft hammer.
    There are two bearings inside the free hub , both are 6902. Other then that there are two 6903 bearings in the shell. My drive side 6903 bearing along with the pawls on the free hub was the reason why I took mine apart. The pawls were hardly moving in and out and the bearing was not running smooth at all.

  47. #47
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    These hubs are not ready for prime time. If I were to have nor fail I would consider replacing with something from dt Swiss

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    I have not been able to hammer the axle from the drive side to take it out. Anyone else have had that problem?

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    I can't get the axle out of mine either. Any tips?

  50. #50
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    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    Are you supporting the non-drive side with a socket big enough so that the bearing isn't testing on it? If you are just keep tapping it with a plastic mallet as to not damage the axle.

  51. #51
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    Yea, I was supporting the non-drive side correctly but the problem was that my axle was bent....I took it to a specialized dealer and they could not remove it either. I decided to buy a new wheel with hub.

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    I joined today just to comment on this thread.

    I've got a 2013 Stumpy, and have been having rear hub issues, yet my hub looks nothing like what I have seen on the first page of this thread.

    The freehub on mine has three pawls, and the bearings are so tight on the non-drive side that the wheel barely turns, yet on the drive side, there is a shiny threaded piece that will not thread on to the axle.

    I've had it to the LBS twice for this issue, and they don't seem to want to warranty it, or do much about it. I'm sure that the bearings are shot on the non-drive side, and am wondering if just tossing the whole wheel is the thing to do. I do have another Specialized dealer in the area that I can take it to, but I'm not holding out much hope.

    But back to the issue: The freehub part literally fell off the hub! I didn't need any tools or anything. I had it over a trash can in my workshop, and was reading this thread when I heard something 'hit the can', and looked in and saw it. I was surprised...

    I will try to post the two pictures that I took last night of the drive side axle and the shiny threaded part, but what to do about the bearing being so tight for some reason is getting me wondering what's up. I figured that the threaded part was on too tight, but it wasn't even threaded on the axle, and I can't get it to thread on it either. Replacing the hub would be good I suppose, but I'd need a hub the same dimensions to avoid having to re-engineer the whole thing with new spokes/etc.

    Thanks for any feedback... I'm a stumpy rider stumped...

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-part-2.gifHi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-part-1.gif

    Looking at the pictures, it looks like that 'shiny metal thing' is supposed to go UNDER the dirt seal on the freehub body somehow. Yeah, that'll work well I'm sure... I haven't taken the dirt seal off yet, but I think there's something blocking that nut thing from going under the seal. It seems to be designed by a committee... YIKES!

  53. #53
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    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    That is still the same hub I believe as a 2012, remove the dust seal with a pic and you'll see the sealed bearing. You need to tap out the axle before you'll be able to remove the free hub with a 14mm allen key from the non drive side

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    If you are responding to me, the freehub literally fell out. I think, after looking at the picture of the nut thing, it looks like that on this hub was what held the freehub on.

    There is a hex indented bit on the non-drive end of the axle, but it's 12mm, and apparently not needed to messed with in my case as the freehub is off.

    I'm going to head to the second LBS with the parts and see if they want to warranty it, or have some other idea. Since the first shop couldn't get the nut thing to thread on the drive end of the axle, I'm wondering what the second shop can do short of just giving in and replacing the wheel (and then I hope I'm not going to get a different set of problems with a cheap crap hub).

    This design seems odd, but I'm not that versed in these newer style hubs. I was a mechanic back in the 'good old days' of threaded hubs with freewheel clusters.

  55. #55
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    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    The bolt holding the freehub on goes from the non drive side, it's hollow to allow the 12mm axle to go thru. Unless that bolt wasn't tight or broke I don't see how the freehub could just fall out?

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    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    Sounds to me like whoever put the wheel together forgot to tighten that bolt and instead tightened the axle nut and counter nut on the drive side to hold the free hub in place, if that's what happened it wouldn't have taken long for this to fail catastrophically as it did.

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    Well, here's what happened: Got there, explained what was going on. Hmm... The guy says. That's odd... Yep says I. He looks at all of the parts, and starts putting it back together and says that the hub I have is a step better than the older style hubs, 'believe it or not'. He puts it all together and it's still tight. (Forgot to mention that on the bike in a stand, the rear wheel won't do more than one or two revs spinning the wheel by hand)

    He takes it all apart, looks at all the parts, and say 'Hmm...'. Puts it all back together and says that it seems a little better. I get a hold of it, and it's remarkably better. I mention the idea of loctiting the drive side nut to keep it from backing off, and he says 'Hmm.' (A man of few words) and takes it all apart again. I tell him that so far every time I've had the wheel off, that nut has been loose enough to fall off. He says 'Hmm...' Puts it back together and then says 'That sounds reasonable', takes the nut off, and proceeds to clean the axle threads and the nut, and throws some loctite on it, torques it on good, and hands the wheel to me. So much better...

    My idea on why that nut has been loose every time I've removed the wheel: With the bearings bound up so tight, they have allowed the axle to actually spin in the dropouts slightly over time causing the reverse threaded nut to loosen. That's about the only way I can think of for that nut to back off like that. I did check the last time the first shop tightened it, and it was tight, however they didn't address the bearing drag issue.

    Isn't physics wonderful...

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    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    Sounds to me like whoever put the wheel together forgot to tighten that bolt and instead tightened the axle nut and counter nut on the drive side to hold the free hub in place, if that's what happened it wouldn't have taken long for this to fail catastrophically as it did.
    It was the nut on the drive side that always loosened up. Freakiest damn thing... Maybe the non-drive side was too tight? Don't know. It's fixed, so far... I hope...

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    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    The bolt holding the freehub on goes from the non drive side, it's hollow to allow the 12mm axle to go thru. Unless that bolt wasn't tight or broke I don't see how the freehub could just fall out?
    If you look at the two pictures I posted, the 'nut' threads on the end of the axle and holds the freehub body on, and the dirt seal on the freehub sits in the grove on the nut. Apparently there is two nuts on the non-drive side, one acting like a jam nut I guess, with the axle sliding in from the drive side, and possibly those were tightened far too much.

    I don't know, but I think it might be solved... At least I think I know what was happening, and why.

  60. #60
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    Hi guys,

    For about two weeks I'm having problems for disassembly this free hub (specialized) I tried to unscrew it from the not drive-side, both right and left but it seems to be stuck.

    I do not know how to do, I also contacted the good LOGO FREAK that is giving me a hand, but seems to be no solution ...

    Use the tools in the pictures.

    Someone who has had the same problem could help me ....

    thanks again!



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  61. #61
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    Thanks Logofreak and everyone else for the info and photos. I have a used 2012 camber comp with some verision of this hi lo hub in the back. I have noticed since I bought the bike used last year that the rear hub just sounded a bit clangy (i.e. went "clang" when pedal pressure applied fast.) I don't even know if it was getting worse, but last month I did some internet research and reading (including this thread and other) and decided to try to service the free hub. When I got the cassette off, I noticed that on the drive side, instead of having two nuts holding the shaft in (like in everyone elses picture), I actually had like a bushing type thing with a lock screw. Sorry I don't have pics as the bike is all put back together. I took out the lock screw but the bushing was like seized on. So sprayed some wd40 between this bushing thing and the shaft, hoping to clear out the corrosion and be able to pull it off. No dice. So I dried it off and applied grease and put the bike back together. NOW, about a month later and 3x 20 mile rides later, the free wheel is making some very slight whirring sound like I have seen in the you tube clips. I imagine it might get worse. So I am now motivated to get back in there and get that lock screw bushing thing off and get to the bottom of this.

    Anyone familiar with this lockscrew bushing version of this freehub? Any suggestions on how to remove a seized bushing like this? Maybe I will pull the wheel and get a pic.

  62. #62
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    here is a pic of someone elses hub, should be exactly the same though.

    also, it appears this guy was having same issue as I was, but resolution is not conclusive.

    Remove freewheel.. HOW?

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    I have finally got another batch of the tools, anyone interested in getting one can contact me via pm or email directly to logofreak@shaw.ca

    I have 9 available and this is probably the last batch I will have for a while.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_0073.jpg

  64. #64
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    Can my specialized dealer order another freehub for a hi lo hub ? 2014 rockhopper comp. does anybody know how much $$ if so ?

    thanks

  65. #65
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    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    Yes, they should be able to. Just got the freehub on my 2013 Camber Comp replaced a month ago. It started making a bad grinding noise when coasting, as if one of the pawls had broken inside. It took them ~2-3 days to get the part, and they charged me ~$60 for parts and labor. Had it done the next day.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  66. #66
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    Cool. thanks !

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    Need One Tool Please

    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    I have finally got another batch of the tools, anyone interested in getting one can contact me via pm or email directly to logofreak@shaw.ca

    I have 9 available and this is probably the last batch I will have for a while.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    How can I get a tool? Thanks.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by emonkey0015 View Post
    How can I get a tool? Thanks.
    his email is in post #63 , few post up.

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    I just opened up, cleaned, and put my freehub body back together. Thanks for the instructions.

    Quick question:

    My freehub body spins wonderfully as long as the seal on the hub side of the freehub body that presses against the hub (the rubber one that cover's the bearings) is not installed.
    When I install the seal after it's all put back together, the freehub body has a significant decrease in it's ability to spin. It's still smooth, but the seal seems to inhibit the spinning significantly.
    Is this normal? How do I fix it?

  70. #70
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    I pretty much solved my own problem but I'll post here in case someone has the same issue.
    I'm pretty sure my seal shrunk a bit while it was drying after I cleaned it, like a raisin.
    I soaked it in motor oil for 24 hours, then gently stretched it out with my fingers for ten minutes.
    The seal seems to cause much less friction now.

  71. #71
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    This thread is amazing an the only reason I just created an account...many many thanks for the help already!..I would like to purchase a fabricated tool of yours...also how to I remove the bearings from the axle? I seem to be having trouble..all bearing need to be replaced on my Specialized camber SFR 2012... So I'm following your instruction...thanks jake!

  72. #72
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    Can I replace my two Pawls original hub with a tree Pawls hub setup?

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chefjake666 View Post
    Can I replace my two Pawls original hub with a tree Pawls hub setup?
    If the two flanges are the same width apart, and the spoke ends are at the same diameter, AND you have built wheels yourself, or have someone to do it for you, go for it.

    The problem is when you start mixing flange widths and diameters, because you need different spokes, and finding out the right spoke length can be a pain.

    The shop I worked at 'The Book' which had spoke lengths for most common hub and rim configurations. I don't know if the book still exists out there, or remember what it was called.


    But, if the hubs are the same size, it will be a 'learning experience' building your own wheels.

    I've done four sets in my days, and it's actually pretty easy, just take your time if you've never done it before. Nothing beats riding on wheels you yourself built...

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    what are the causes or symptoms that might make some1 perform this? i have a 2016 stumpy and i have some weird squeaky noises coming from the freehub area. considering it's a brand new bike, i dont know if this is something i should look into. perhaps a warranty replacement. this seems pretty complicated lol
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

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    I have a question... Can I put 2 more cogs onto my 2013 rockhopper 9 speed bike . making the rear cassete 11 speed, i know that i have to get a new chain, and a new shifter and chainring.... will two more cogs fit the rear hub? and if i buy a new hub, can i just get two more cogs instead of buying a 11 speed cassette?

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by darklight.ds View Post
    I have a question... Can I put 2 more cogs onto my 2013 rockhopper 9 speed bike . making the rear cassete 11 speed, i know that i have to get a new chain, and a new shifter and chainring.... will two more cogs fit the rear hub? and if i buy a new hub, can i just get two more cogs instead of buying a 11 speed cassette?
    pretty sure you will need a hub for a 10/11 speed.

    I solved my hi/lo problem , I had flow ex rims built on DT Swiss 350's

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    i am looking into the praxxis works wide range cassette, 12t-40t and a 34t narrow wide race face or wolf tooth chain ring.. my hub can fit a 10 speed cassette. ( i hope ) its a 2013 . Nice rims ya got there though buddy.... i have to decide on the rear mech and shift trigger now.....

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    what are the causes or symptoms that might make some1 perform this? i have a 2016 stumpy and i have some weird squeaky noises coming from the freehub area. considering it's a brand new bike, i dont know if this is something i should look into. perhaps a warranty replacement. this seems pretty complicated lol
    Did you get this repaired? I have a stumpy fsr comp 2016 and my freehub is making a weird ticking sound under the normal clicking sound of the freehub. My LBS tech said he couldn't hear anything and the wheel was working like normal. I can clearly hear the sound when the wheel spins slowly without pedaling but goes away when pedaling. I feel like the freehub might die on me while out riding but for now it's working fine. Not sure if I should go back to me LBS and have them rebuild/replace the hub while I still have the warranty.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oxidizer View Post
    Did you get this repaired? I have a stumpy fsr comp 2016 and my freehub is making a weird ticking sound under the normal clicking sound of the freehub. My LBS tech said he couldn't hear anything and the wheel was working like normal. I can clearly hear the sound when the wheel spins slowly without pedaling but goes away when pedaling. I feel like the freehub might die on me while out riding but for now it's working fine. Not sure if I should go back to me LBS and have them rebuild/replace the hub while I still have the warranty.
    i went back and forth with my lbs. i didn't get a ticking sound, i had more of a squealing sound. i recorded a video on my phone and even showed them. eventually he called specialized again and he said they would replace the freehub, and specialized semi seemed to know something was up. they didn't ask any questions, they simply sent a new freehub, as if this was a reoccuring issue. oddly enough, it's a different part #. the my lbs said it's the same freehub but just made from a different company, as if specialized switched part makers mid year, which they said was common place.

    this was after they took my hub apart and regreased everything a few times. now my hub runs fine, not weird squealing. tho im going to get the hope pro 4 hubs soon anyhow, i just really dislike these hubs.

    take a video so you can show the lbs.
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    Thanks for the update. Sounds like it was a battle for you but glad you've got it fixed. Hopefully you won't have any problems. I don't understand why Specialized uses such junk freehubs.

    I'll try to record a video. The sound is subtle so maybe it might take another couple months before it gets worse enough that there won't be any way to deny the sound. Heck, I'm thinking of getting a new back wheel with a name brand hub. I guess I'll have to go back to my LBS and try to get them to work on freehub first before buying anything.

    Thanks again.

  81. #81
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    I just bought, in early January, a Fatboy Pro Trail, and it was squeaking like either the bottom bracket was falling apart, or the hub was crap. One mechanic was on a ride with me, and he thought it was the rear hub. I dropped it off over a holiday upstate, and returned to an excited mechanic telling me that the bottom bracket was 'dry as a bone'.

    It appears that, in China (or where ever), they didn't grease the spindle, and the bearings weren't 'greased enough for my liking'.

    I thought having the hub issues I had was a fluke, but maybe not.

    It's disconcerting to have, and hear, of so many issues...

  82. #82
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    Here's an update to the strange sounds I was hearing in my freehub. I figured out how to remove the freehub body. Just remove the nut from the drive side of the freehub using a 17 mm wrench and pull the freehub body off the spindle. I cleaned out the internal parts where the freehub meets the hub on the wheel. I put some fresh grease inside and all over the pawls. Seems like there wasn't a lot of grease inside the freehub. But I'm not sure how much is needed. After reassembling the hub, the rubbing sound is pretty much gone. We'll see how long it takes for the sound to come back.

  83. #83
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    Hello,

    as I had to partly service my Specialized hubs on the Stumpjumper MY 2014, new version with 3 prawls, I wrote an description with pictures in the german forum.
    Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Fotos und mehr Thread | Seite 203 | MTB-News.de
    Last edited by thaistatos; 11-03-2016 at 01:35 PM.

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    Hi, I wonder if someone with the newer HiLo (2015, 3 pawls, sealed cartridge) could spell out what should be inside exactly? When I took mine apart (like StumpyR's above it needed tightening) I found some shards of metal around the axle, between the innermost freehub bearing and the ratchet mechanism.

    Should there be a spacer there that got mangled?

    Also should there be dust caps on the end? As on the non drive side of mine you can see the sealed cartridge bearings exposed to the elements (apart from the rubber seal on the cartridge).

  85. #85
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    Did you see the post just above yours? There are some pictures included.
    There is no spacer.
    There are dust cups on each side, on the NDS there is a thin metal/rubber plate, on the DS it should look like in StumpyRs post.


    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-20161030_131020-medium-.jpg

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    Smile

    I revive this post, I have almost the same hub, is an Aest 9v sealed, Im trying to dissamsembly
    WICH ORIENTATION YOU TURN THE FREEHUB HOLDER, CLOCK WISE OR COUNTERCLOCKWISE??
    This piece
    [QUOTE=LogoFreak;10823923]"Now to remove the freehub you will need a 14mm allen key, it needs to be at least 3in long because the bolt is accessed through the non-drive side."
    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-848279d1384918170-hi-lo-rear-disc-hub-service-replacement-2013-11-19-14.43.38.jpg
    /QUOTE]
    Last edited by scareface; 01-20-2017 at 04:32 PM. Reason: images

  87. #87
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    Great thread!
    Anybody know what kind of 148 hubs come on the 2017 SJ Comp Carbon 29er (Roval Traverse Alloy 29mm IW)??
    Are they shat like these? Spesh seems to have dropped the 'Hi-Lo' name from its marketing materials..

  88. #88
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    I repeat, WICH ORIENTATION YOU TURN THE FREEHUB HOLDER, CLOCK WISE OR COUNTERCLOCKWISE?? Im repairing my hub I dont want to break the thread, this piece

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-1116853d1484955149-hi-lo-rear-disc-hub-service-replacement-848279d1384918170-hi-lo-rear-disc-hub.jpg

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