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  1. #1
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    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    I've tried my Google Fu and I'm not coming up with much here.

    Just got a 2013 Stumpjumper Comp 29 HT for my wife (second hand so no warranty) and the rear hub sounds terrible. It rolls but sounds gritty and as if there is no grease in it or it is already shot. ** I should add that I've found a lot of complaining of these hubs being poor quality, but no info on how to remedy the issue.

    I'm looking for two things. A repair manual or any help on dis-assembly so that I can service it myself to try to salvage...or help finding the exact dimensions of the hub so I could buy an upgrade/replacement hub and lace it up with the same spokes to keep costs down. I've heard that the X-9 hubs can be swapped in...any others that folks know off hand? She gets jealous of the clicks from my Hope hub so loud is OK.

    Thanks for any help!

  2. #2
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    I saw a post somewhere that showed a hole drilled into the hub to allow lubricant to be added. I have had one fail on my Stumpjumper and the LBS replaced it at my cost so no warranty is really not an issue. I also have one on my Camber that I am awaiting the same issue to occur somewhere down the road since they are notorious for failure. Not sure if that post is still here but you are welcome to search for it. I think replacement is the best option, go to LBS and just order one.

    Searched for the post, long gone. Maybe the original poster will post again. I do know he removed the hub, drilled a small hole into it, added a certain oil and then plugged the hole with something. Can't remember what, but if it's bad how much damage can you really do. I think the part itself is a remove and replace type of part. Sealed and un-serviceable.
    2016 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)
    2013 Specialized Camber Carbon
    2011 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp

  3. #3
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    Oh I did find this (Specialized Hi Lo 142+ hub) I wasn't looking at the 142+ hub threads because I thought this one was a 135mm. Maybe this is worth a try, but I might get a quote from the LBS on a replacement hub first. I have built wheels before so if I know what hub would be a "drop in" replacement allowing me to reuse the spokes I would go that route. The bike supposedly had less than 10 rides on it and judging by tire wear and such it looks to be true. Shame those hubs are so crappy.

  4. #4
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    That's the link.
    2016 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)
    2013 Specialized Camber Carbon
    2011 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp

  5. #5
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    Keep it clean and greased and it will last. That has been my experience anyway.


    Specialized 142+ rear hub

  6. #6
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    I have a '12 SJ FSR comp 29er, and I had the exact same issue with my rear wheel. It rolled fine, but sounded like the bearings had run dry. I took it to the LBS where I bought the bike, and the owner got in touch with Specialized. While they would not say that there was a problem with the hubs, my LBS was supplied with a brand new hub, laced to a rim, so all I had to do was remount my tire. Two days later, I was back on the trails! New hub works amazing, even sounds like a higher quality one (a bit louder when freewheeling)

  7. #7
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    Honestly why do you want to bother in fixing those hubs ? If you can take advantage of your LBS in giving you a warranty replacement then go ahead,but I would seriously consider in replacing the whole thing with a more serious and reilable rim,it will make a day a night difference.
    This warranty thing for these hubs tells Specialized must have of some sort of cheap contract with a chinese sub contractor. These Hi Lo hubs just keep crumbling apart after a few ridesno matter how good you look after them,period. It's a lessons we have to take from Specialized : you don't want these Hi Lo hubs ? Buy Sworks or Expert level...

  8. #8
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    Bought the bike second hand, can't imagine the Specialized dealer will do anything for me. Can check with the bike shop though.

  9. #9
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    To service this hub you will need a tool like the one I fabricated, also a 14mm allen key is required to remove the freehub from the wheel. Whoever is interested in this tool can email me at logofreak@shaw.ca

    I will make them in 10 piece batches, I'm not making these to make money I just want to help other people wanting to maintain these hubs by themselves.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1721.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1727.jpg
    Last edited by LogoFreak; 11-20-2013 at 12:13 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    I may do a small batch of them to sell.

    Cheers
    I'd be interested in the tool. How much do you think you'll charge?

    Also is it hard to get the free hub body off the hub?

  11. #11
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    This is great, thank you! Also interested in the tool (looks like you ground down a socket).

    I had pulled on the free hub body a bit and it didn't seem to come off easily. Maybe I just wasn't forceful enough.

  12. #12
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    You need a 14mm Allen key to remove the freehub, just stick it in from the non-drive side and unscrew it. The tool is a 7/8 socket milled to spec. There's 2 people on the list so far, 8 more and I can make a batch.

  13. #13
    act
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    allo-- if not too costly, i'd take one. please.

  14. #14
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    Just throw those hubs in the garbage. Seriously.

  15. #15
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    Re: Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by sevenpedaler View Post
    Just throw those hubs in the garbage. Seriously.
    Does servicing them as pictured not fix the grinding noise? If so...why spend the money on a new hub? I'd rather spend 10 bucks and a little tinker time to keep it running than drop way more on a new hub.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    Does servicing them as pictured not fix the grinding noise? If so...why spend the money on a new hub? I'd rather spend 10 bucks and a little tinker time to keep it running than drop way more on a new hub.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    Hey, I wasn't knocking anyone fixing these paper weights. I just think they are junk and have terrible engagement and wouldn't waste any time trying to fix them with much better stuff on the market. Hope, Hadley, King, Swiss, I9 etc. I know they are more $ , but you get what you pay for.
    I have a HL on a set of wheels that I keep in case someone needs a wheel in a pinch....but they really suck.

  17. #17
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    There's really nothing wrong with the hubs if maintained, they are definitely not on par with a lot of the aftermarket hubs that are available but we are not all racers or want nothing but the best on our bikes regardless of cost. I just ride :-) This video comes to mind after reading the last few replies :-) LOL
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPVRU7jSYkQ

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    There's really nothing wrong with the hubs if maintained, they are definitely not on par with a lot of the aftermarket hubs that are available but we are not all racers or want nothing but the best on our bikes regardless of cost. I just ride :-) This video comes to mind after reading the last few replies :-) LOL
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPVRU7jSYkQ
    Sorry, but the freehubs are not up to the task. They should have had three pawls, not two. Having them operate inside a free hub shell with a 36 tooth sprocket multiplying a chain tension that is already about three times the riders weight when standing in the small ring...well, let's just say the design was optimistic - and then collided with reality.

    The new hubs have three pawls inside a much larger outboard ring. IOW the loads are lower by maybe half and the hubshell isn't doing double duty. They are easily serviced and run on cartridge bearings. You don't have to be a racer or an equipment geek to appreciate that. And you can maintain the old ones all you want and they'll still be prone to break. I never had to walk home but that was just luck.

    Nobody will ever miss those hubs. Unless they're using them for target practice.

  19. #19
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    Count me in for the tool. How much will you charge for it?

  20. #20
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    I'm going to be posting a proper how-to later tonight. In the meantime for those who are interested the 2 sealed bearings that are in the back wheel are a 6902 and a 1526, enduro bearings makes them and I'm sure a lot of other manufacturers as well.

  21. #21
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    Start by removing the brake rotor so it doesn't get greasy.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.32.23.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.34.23.jpg

    Remove the cassette.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.34.49.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.36.56.jpg

    On the drive side undo the axle nuts, you'll need 2 17mm cone wrenches.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.38.47.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.39.26.jpg

    To remove the axle you will have to support the non drive side with a socket large enough and hit it from the drive side with a plastic mallet.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.41.02.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.41.38.jpg

    Now to remove the freehub you will need a 14mm allen key, it needs to be at least 3in long because the bolt is accessed through the non-drive side.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.42.29.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.43.38.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.44.41.jpg

    After the bolt is removed the hub will simply pull off.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.45.03.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-2013-11-19-14.45.16.jpg

    Now onto the freehub.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1760.jpg

    Remove the seal that's on the drive side of the freehub if you haven't done so already.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1762.jpg

    This will expose the drive side cartridge bearing. To get it out you'll have to tap it out with a screw driver from the opposite side, doing so you'll most likely damage the bearing. You could use a collet style bearing puller if you have one, with the price of bearings being so low I don't bother. The other method you could use is by putting the freehub into a vice (wrap the freehub in a towel so it doesn't get damaged), find a rod that is the same size as the ID of the bearing. Insert it into the bearing and gently pry in opposing directions until the bearing comes out. You can use the axle however you'll most likely damage the threads which is why I don't recommend it.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1764.jpg

    With the bearing out of the way you can now remove the cup that holds the bearing and also keep the hub in one piece. This is a left hand thread, meaning you will turn clockwise to unscrew it.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1724.jpg

    When you pull the bearing cup out do it over a container as now there's nothing holding the hub together and all the ball bearings will start to fall out. As you pull out the bearing cup under are a wave washer and 2 shims, remember in what order they came out as you'll want to reinstall them in the same order.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1726.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1732.jpg

    Remove the 2 pawls, they are simply help by a retaining ring that acts as a spring as well to keep the pawls in the open position

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1729.jpg

    This is what you should have after taking it all apart.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1730.jpg

    Clean all the parts in degreaser or solvent, I find it easiest to use a small paint brush. Brake cleaner from an automotive supplier works great to rinse the parts after you've cleaned them, just don't use it on any of the rubber seals as they could get damaged. The brake cleaner evaporates quickly which is why I like using it, just do it in a well ventilated areas as it has a strong odour.

    Re-assembly.

    Let's start with putting the pawls back on, put a light coat of wheel bearing grease and place the pawls into their slots.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1733.jpg

    Now put the retaining ring back on to hold the pawls in place, it goes inside the groove.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1734.jpg

    There are 52 ball bearings in total, 26 per side. Apply some grease to the inside race and start placing all 26 ball bearings. They will stick to the grease, but do this over a container as sometimes one or two might still fall off. Once all the ball bearings are in place slide the outer hub body onto the inner while holding the pawls closed. This is what you'll see from the drive side once you're done.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1735.jpg


    And from the non-drive side

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1737.jpg

    Now install the 2 spacers and wave washer on the drive side and place the remaining 26 ball bearings into the outer race.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1780.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1781.jpg

    You can now tighten the bearing cup with the tool, there's no preload to be worried about. The washers inside take care of the right spacing so just tighten it without using to much excessive force.

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1765.jpg

    It helps if you temporarily pop the freehub onto your wheel as a method of holding it while tightening that cup.

    You will need 2 new sealed bearings to finish the job, they are both from enduro bearings even though one of them has a cane creek seal. The part numbers are HFR6006 for the drive side and 6902 (I went with the LLU Max bearings).

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1777.jpg

    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-img_1778.jpg

    Proceed by installing the drive side bearing first, you can use a socket that fits the bearing (use the back of the socket so that it supports both inner and outer races). You can either tap the bearing in (it won't sit flush with the bearing cup when all the way in) or use a table wise as a press.

    I'll finish the write up tonight....
    Last edited by LogoFreak; 01-29-2014 at 10:44 AM.

  22. #22
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    Just opened my freehub. There seem to be less than 26 bearings on one side. They measure .125 inches. Who supplies those? Anyone knows?

  23. #23
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    How many ball bearings total do you have?

  24. #24
    act
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    use calipers to measure and order replacement bearings at mcMaster-carr (assume you need the bearing-quality alloy steel type and not the general purpose low-carbon type)--they sell for only a few dollars for packs of one hundred.

  25. #25
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    I believe there are 49 bearings. .125 inch diameter, with a caliper. Tks for the advice!

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by golo777 View Post
    I believe there are 49 bearings. .125 inch diameter, with a caliper. Tks for the advice!
    You're definitely short 3 ball bearings, I recounted the ones in my hub.

  27. #27
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    Sealed Bearings: Supplier

    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    I'm going to be posting a proper how-to later tonight. In the meantime for those who are interested the 2 sealed bearings that are in the back wheel are a 6902 and a 1526, enduro bearings makes them and I'm sure a lot of other manufacturers as well.
    Logofreak: your overhaul instructions are a success,thanks. Noise is gone. I got the loose bearings from McMaster to exchange all as soon as I get the sealed bearings. Another Q: who sells the sealed bearings? Any suggested brand better than factory ones?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by golo777 View Post
    Logofreak: your overhaul instructions are a success,thanks. Noise is gone. I got the loose bearings from McMaster to exchange all as soon as I get the sealed bearings. Another Q: who sells the sealed bearings? Any suggested brand better than factory ones?
    I got my bearings from enduro, if you need the model numbers I can look the up. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.

    Cheers

  29. #29
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    I will have 9 of these tools available within the next 2 weeks. Those interested e-mail me at logofreak@shaw.ca

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by LogoFreak View Post
    I will have 9 of these tools available within the next 2 weeks. Those interested e-mail me at logofreak@shaw.ca
    I have 7 tools available to be shipped, this is most likely the last batch I'll have for a while.

  31. #31
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    Ready to ship :-)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-image.jpg  


  32. #32
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    Where can i find Replacement pawls?

    I just took my hub apart, and found one of the pawls broken.
    does anyone know where i can buy replacement pawls for this specialized hub?

    Regarding the ball bearings, i counted 50 total. Also, the bearings appeared to be in very bad shape (tarnished). the internal condition of my hub was in bad shape, it appears that water and dirt got in.

    For replacing the ball bearings, go with the 440C material, its got higher hardness value.


    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement-broken-pawl.jpg

    Alejandro

  33. #33
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    Hi Alejandro,

    I highly doubt you'll find replacement parts for it, there is absolutely no support for this freewheel from specialized. Best place would be to ask around and see if someone would sell/give you their freehub when they've upgraded so something else. Keeping this freehub clean and greased is the way to keep it working for a long time, looks like you were a little to late on the maintenance :-(

  34. #34
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    Logofreak, thanks for your response. i am afraid you are correct. i maybe out of luck on this one. i'll be searching online to see if i can find a used hub that i can take apart for spare parts.

    If you come across someone that has one, let me know.

    thanks

    Alejandro

  35. #35
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    Will do Alejandro

  36. #36
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    Hi a bought one of the tools logo freak has made great tool to service your hi lo freehub. Best thing is he shipped it to the uk as well
    Thanks logofreak
    Dale uk

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stav View Post
    Hi a bought one of the tools logo freak has made great tool to service your hi lo freehub. Best thing is he shipped it to the uk as well
    Thanks logofreak
    Dale uk
    You're welcome Dale, glad it worked out for you :-)

  38. #38
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    FYI, I will ship these worldwide as long as shipping is in the same amount as it is sending to North America. So far shipping to England and Brazil has been very close, if shipping is more I will simply ask you to cover the difference.

    Cheers,

    LogoFreak

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    Probable repuesto

    Quote Originally Posted by temaki69 View Post
    Logofreak, thanks for your response. i am afraid you are correct. i maybe out of luck on this one. i'll be searching online to see if i can find a used hub that i can take apart for spare parts.

    If you come across someone that has one, let me know.

    thanks

    Alejandro
    Alejandro,

    I have to change my freehub, i have a hilo 142+ and probably it what you need, ill tell you at the end of the week.

    Boris

  40. #40
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    Hey logo freak,

    Thanks again for the tool. it worked as advertised.
    One question though. After i rebuilt the hub it is emitting a strange squawk sound while under load. I know that's not much to go on but would you have any idea what the issue is?

    Also my second set all of a sudden became very tight. (spinning the cassette with your hand would result in 1/4 rotation before it stopped) can you comment on the tightness of the drive / driveside axle nuts? or anything else that might contribute to this tightness?

  41. #41
    Bos
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    I have a 2013 hilo 142 hub approximately 6 months old, in great shape. It came off of an Epic Comp. If anyone is interested, make me an offer.

  42. #42
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    Hey thanks for the great instructions LogoFreak. My 2012 Camber freewheel was on the way out but with your details I was able to make the necessary tools from old spanners etc and get the job done. It is now quiet and smooth.
    Mine had three of the shim washers instead of two. Otherwise exactly as per your instructions.
    WIll see how it goes tomorrow.

  43. #43
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    firebook... check the rubber seals. i had placed a o ring in crooked and it make the freehub tight and not spin so freely

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    Thank you for all the positive reviews guys, I still have a few tools left if anyone still wants one. I also have blank sockets left to machine a few more and will do another batch if there's demand for them.

    Cheers,

    Antoni

  45. #45
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    Antoni,

    Shoot me a PM if you still have any of the freehub tools ready to ship out.

    -Gabe

  46. #46
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    FYI
    Disassembled my stock Hi Lo rear hub on my 2013 Demo 8.
    The construction has changed since this thread was created.
    You now need two 12mm allen keys to take the hub apart (one from each side). Then you simply detach the free hub by hand. After the free hub has been removed, bash out the axle from the non drive side with a soft hammer.
    There are two bearings inside the free hub , both are 6902. Other then that there are two 6903 bearings in the shell. My drive side 6903 bearing along with the pawls on the free hub was the reason why I took mine apart. The pawls were hardly moving in and out and the bearing was not running smooth at all.

  47. #47
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    These hubs are not ready for prime time. If I were to have nor fail I would consider replacing with something from dt Swiss

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    I have not been able to hammer the axle from the drive side to take it out. Anyone else have had that problem?

  49. #49
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    I can't get the axle out of mine either. Any tips?

  50. #50
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    Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

    Are you supporting the non-drive side with a socket big enough so that the bearing isn't testing on it? If you are just keep tapping it with a plastic mallet as to not damage the axle.

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