Help! Suspension setup on Epic Marathon (2006)
I have a 2006 Epic Marathon. I bought it barely used this year. Overall have been pleased. I need some help setting up the suspension. I read around the sites, as well as looked at the videos on the specialized site but my questions are not fully answered. Part of the problem if that my previous bike is a 2001 Cannondale F500, which was totally non-adjustable and no-brainer, so I tech overload on this epic.
Here is what I've been finding a problem: The charts in the manuals are way off on pressures, although specialized is much closer on the rear shock than fox is on the front shock (F100 RLT in my case). I like the rear suspension and don't think that is the problem. I set for the mid range of sag -- about 1 cm and rebound 4-5 clicks from full slow, and then brain fade 1-4 clicks from full stiff depending on my mood. Any feedback on that set up is welcome. BUT with the front fork I,ve having the key setup problems. Basically, to feel like I have adequate cornering control and that not too soft feel I have to set the sag to about 10mm. For me this is about 80 psi for 200# rider. If I set for the recommended sag 15-20mm it is really soft (but cush) brake dives like a mother, and my steering control sucks. Not to mention crazy bobbing under power. Any suggestions?
What I'm basicaly looking for is less bob, brake dive, and better cornering. When I get the pressure high enough to do this of course the bumps get harsh. Do I need to buy a fork with a platform? Is there a way to simulate that with the lock out and blow off? HELP
Try a Terra-logic and see if you like it. Unfortunately there is really not a tuning option that will do away with brake dive but maintain plushness. Maybe turn your compression dampening way high and run a lower pressure so it ramps up quick.
Also maybe you could call push industries and talk to them.
Originally Posted by Pedalfaraway
Thanks, thats what I may end up doing (getting a different fork). My fork does not have compression damping, only rebound damping. I see that PUSH could RLC my RLT so that may be a cheaper way to go.
I have also noticed that depending on how a check the sag I get different numbers.
#1 gently sit on bike, hand on car for stability, gently get off
#2 get on, bounce on it, reach forward and reset zip tie, then gently get off
#3 gently get on, ride slowly around the parking lot, over no bumps, gently get off
I have seen all of these methods advanced (#3 on the spec web site for EPIC). What do you guys think?
c'est la vie
Looks like you need some fork tuning. Most shock manufacturers design their forks and shocks around an “average” weight rider. Typically for riders over 180 lbs (82 Kilos), the Fox pre-set compression circuit is not sufficient to prevent excessive brake drive. As recommended, PUSH should be able to upgrade this fork to RLC which will give adjustable compression. Too bad PUSH will not perform service on Brain shocks.
There is a low cost alternative. While I am no expert, in motorcycling we would change either the oil level to increase the compression ratio or change the oil viscosity for increased damping. I would consult with Fox or PUSH before considering this option.
Regarding checking sag, I found the best way is through the method listed on Race Tech’s website (see link below). Even the best forks (and shocks for that matter) have some friction from the seals and bushings which will give incorrect sag readings.
Hope this helps!
Originally Posted by Maluco
Thanks for the info! I see that sag stuff is for motorcycles--do you think that equally applies to mtb's? I will try that method when I get home and see what I get.
here is another question--with hydraulic brakes (in my case XT's) should I be hanging my bike on a hook, i.e. vertical, in the garage. Is this likely to lead to air in the lines. Does it hurt the suspension?
I will probably PUSH my fork to RLC before buying new. Worse comes to worse I'll put my fork on the wife's Rockhopper FSR that has a non-air fork (the something something DIVA fork)