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  1. #1
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    Help me lose some weight on my bike.

    i have an 05 base stumpjumper. i know the bike is light as is but i want the bike to be lighter so it will handle better.

    i have $750 burning a hole in my pocket right now. if you were in my shoes, what would you do to lighten up the bike. ive been doing research on my own and found that one way to lighten the bike is to replace the handle bars and saddle stems w/ carbon fiber. this is one way to start i suppose. my goal is to get my bike around 19-20 lbs.

    please list the parts you would replace (ie. handle bars; what brand, degree, low rise/ high rise, width, etc.)

    veterans, please enlighten me with wisdom.

  2. #2
    mechmann_mtb
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    cranks

    XT cranks with external BB can shave of a bunch of weight

    if that doesn't do enough the next thing that i would go after would be the lightest wheelset you can afford with light tires on em.

    after that you should be broke again!

  3. #3
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    check out the FAQ on the weight weenie forum

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhsavery
    check out the FAQ on the weight weenie forum
    i did but i wanted specific name brand goods like the guy replied before you did.

  5. #5
    smw
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    Quote Originally Posted by fire-ballz
    i did but i wanted specific name brand goods like the guy replied before you did.

    Replacing the stock wheels will save a ton. There was some discussion on wheels the other day in either the weight forum or the wheels and tire forum. some 1660gram wheelsets. There is also the mavic crossmax SL that are pretty light. Combined with a set of S-Works tubeless tires it might be possible to drop a couple lbs depending on what you have now. XTR rear cassette will also drop some grams. You didnt mention the componets you currently have.

  6. #6
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    You didn't list the components you currently have so it is tough to do a comparison... But as the previous postrs have mentioned: The wheelset is the place to help save the most weight, but it will cost you (potentially the entire amount you have burning a hole in your pocket).

    Alternatively, switch everything out to Easton carbon components such as the EC70 handlebars which you can get for about $60 now from jenson and the rest, Easton EC70 seatpost, a WTB Ti rail saddle (the team level)...

    But the money would probably be best spent on a great wheelset. Atleast you can bring your wheelset from bike to bike without having to reinvest (hopefully).

    I just built up some Mavic 717 discs and King hubs etc. I plan to carry those wheels through several frames...

  7. #7
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    I would HIGHLY recommend the American Classic 350 disc wheels over CrossMaxes, much lighter, and work great with stan's rim strips and S-Works Tubeless tires. I haven't had to true them once.

    Usually go for $350-400
    Tires $100

    Spend the rest on a new seat (Specialized alias or that new Specialized Toupe which is 150g)
    Lighter Seatpost (Thompson)
    Maybe a lighter handlebar like a Easton or S-Works Carbon

  8. #8
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    i'd say AM classic disc wheels,sub-500g tires, an easton Monkeylite bar, SDG I-beam post & I-Fly saddle and a Race Face Deus crankset should save a buttload.


    Ez

  9. #9
    Mud Boy
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    skip tubeless tires

    choose a good light regular tire and use Stan's No Tubes. Tubeless tires are heavy, as much as 200 gr or more than a comparable tube tire. You'll shave a solid pound off by a good tire/Stans set up.

    many tires sidewalls do not like the low pressures you can run with Stan's. You will see visible stress lines in your tires from running 25-30lbs in them. I have had a set of Specialized Roll X pro's for two seasons now with Stan. No flat's, the above mentioned visable stresses. They are nearing their life expectancy now anyway.

    The performance increase is amazing. Go for it!

  10. #10
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    ooops....sorry for not listing my components....

    i am stock

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by fire-ballz
    ooops....sorry for not listing my components....

    i am stock
    I'm not sure if you have the hardtail or the FSR.. but here is a list of the components that come on the base Stumpy hardtail:

    FRAME M4 Manipulated Alloy with ORE technology, fully butted with refined tapers & reduced wall thickness, disc & rim brake compatible, replaceable derailleur hanger

    FORK Fox F80RL, 80mm travel, air spring, compression adjust with lock-out, rebound adjust, lightweight alloy steerer

    HEADSET 1 1/8” Threadless, 3x sealed, black alloy cups, cartridge bearings, ultralight alloy top cap and bolt

    STEM 3D forged CNC machined, 4-bolt, 31.8mm OS clamp, 8 degree rise
    HANDLEBARS Specialized XC Flat 31.8mm OS bar, 6066 butted alloy, 5 degree backsweep, 580mm width
    TAPE / GRIPS Specialized MTB grip, black, double density Kraton
    FRONT BRAKE Avid SD-5R cantilevers, cartridge pads, lightweight compressionless housing
    REAR BRAKE Avid SD-5R cantilevers, cartridge pads, lightweight compressionless housing
    BRAKE LEVERS Avid FR-5
    FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano M-570 LX, 34.9 clamp, bottom pull
    REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano M-750 XT, long cage, standard spring
    SHIFT LEVERS Shimano M-570 LX
    CASSETTE Shimano HG-50 LX, 9-speed, 11x34t
    CHAIN Shimano HG-73
    CRANKSET Custom Shimano Hollowtech, Octalink XT Spline
    CHAINRINGS 44Ax32Sx22S, 4-bolt 104/64mm pattern, steel chainring bolts
    BOTTOM BRACKET Shimano ES-30 Octalink spline, 68mm shell, 118mm spindle. 50mm chainline.
    PEDALS Shimano 520 SPD
    RIMS Mavic X317, 26”, black, machined sidewalls, eyelets
    FRONT HUB Specialized Stout Disc, 32 hole
    REAR HUB Shimano M-525 Disc, 32 hole, loose ball bearings, alloy Q/R
    SPOKES DT Swiss, 1.8mm (15g) stainless, black, alloy nipples
    FRONT TIRE Specialized FasTrack Pro 2.0, aramid bead, dual compound, 120tpi
    REAR TIRE Specialized FasTrack Pro 2.0, aramid bead, dual compound, 120tpi
    TUBES Specialized Ultralight, presta valve
    SADDLE Specialized BG technology, hollow Cr-Mo rails, dual density base
    SEAT POST 2014 butted alloy, black, 30.9 x 350/400mm
    SEAT BINDER Alloy collar with bolt, 34.9mm clamp I.D., black

  12. #12
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    First of all, you should replace the wheelset, as Deore hubs aren't known of their light weight. Mavic 717s are as cheap as chips, extremely light and tough enough for me to use on my Enduro without fear of breakage.

    As for hubs, your choice is huge. The German company Tune make the lightest stuff around, but be prepared to sell spare organs on Ebay for the priviledge. Otherwise, Hope's forthcoming Pro II is light and strong.

    Tyres are another avenue for losing serious amounts of weight where you'll notice it most. I've heard people swear by Scwalbe's Racing Ralph for lightness and grip, but you might lose puncture protection by compromising on tyre weight. Better quality inner tubes will help here in to some extent though.

    Next up is the bars, stem and seatpost. Thomson kit is lightweight, strong and durable. As for bars, someone's already mentioned the Easton CNT which is supposed to be the greatest thing since sliced bread. Your saddle has cromo rails, so you could save a few grammes by switching to a Ti rail saddle eg SDG Bel Air, Fi'zik Gobi or the SDI I Beam system.

    Finally, switching pedals to EggBeaters Ti will save a bit more weight at a cost.

  13. #13
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    I agree that replacing your wheelset would make a big difference but that may use up all your budget. I replaced most of my Specialized branded components such as stem, bars, post and seat with high end light parts. These changes knocked off about 2 pounds as well as improve the appearance of the bike.

  14. #14
    Vaginatarian
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    I stopped eating fast food and sodas and in 8 weeks dropped 20lbs. Not only do you get to keep your $750 but you will save money and be faster and healthier

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