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  1. #1
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    New question here. Help identify an old Stumpjumper? FSR frame

    Picked up an old (Stumpjumper?) FSR frame that's had the front triangle repainted (poorly) for cheap. Trying to find some info on it to get the right parts (especially the rear shock and spacers) to build it up, without having to dig out the digital caliper (and also just to know what I've got here).

    Looks to be circa 2000, and the rear triangle says Enduro FSR Fully Active 4-Bar Suspension. Serial number PB095290. Is there a standard way to decode this?





    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    It looks like a 2000 Enduro FSR. If it has a disc brake mount on the seat-stay it's a 2001, but 2001s had silver seat stays too. I had a 2001 Enduro Expert FSR - a good bike for its time. Look it up on Bikepedia.com.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, that's why I couldn't find it - on Bikepedia it just says Enduro and Enduro Expert - doesn't mention FSR anywhere other than the Stumpjumpers. But that has the right adjustable lower rear shock mount.

    Do you remember what size the shock is, and more importantly, what size the spacers are?

    Also, is the flat spot above the bottom bracket on the "seat tube" supposed to be there? Maybe for clearance of the FD?

  4. #4
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    Flat spot is for FD clearance. No idea about shock or spacer specs.

  5. #5
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    Ok, so no rear disc mount, so must be a 2000. There's a spot to install a screw near the bottom bracket - does this use an e-type front derailleur or maybe a DMD?

  6. #6
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    If it is a 2000 Enduro, then my info reads that the shock that fits that is a 6.5"e-t-e with a travel of 1.5". Travel is adjustable from 3.8" to 4.6", lever ratio varies from 3.1:1 to 2.5:1. The width of the shock mount at the frame should be 1.2" and the one at the link should be 1.575"..... subtract the width of the eyelet (~1/2") and you can calculate the spacer / top-hat size you need.

  7. #7
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    Just closing the loop on this thread. Seems I forgot to thank SpecialWarr for the detailed info. So Thank you.

    So I built this up with some spare parts to verify the geometry and size felt good and they did. However I couldn't for the life of me get the shifting dialed in so upon closer inspection I found the seatstay bent. Luckily I caught it just in time to snag a replacement on Ebay. Slightly different bushings/bearings in the replacement so I swap'ed 'em out and was able to build the thing up. While I had it all torn down to fix the rear end, I repainted the front triangle. Here's a snap from her maiden voyage:



    Got it prepared just in time for a group ride/demo day where I was able to compare against some more modern bikes (like a '14 Stumpjumper) and I honestly liked this one better. I was able to keep up with the folks demo'ing brand new Spesh, C'dale and SantaCruz rigs. Not too shabby for ~$100 and some spare parts.

  8. #8
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    If you end up needing any more parts for that, shoot me a pm. I have a front triangle and a few swingarm pieces (as in chainstays and seatstays).
    Last edited by kidwoo; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:39 AM.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  9. #9
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    Good to know. A spare chain stay would probably be good to have as that's known to crack and this one is still a touch tweaked (but the hanger is on the seat stay so it doesn't matter as much). I'll pm you.

  10. #10
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    Re: Help identify an old Stumpjumper? FSR frame

    Quote Originally Posted by cmags View Post
    Good to know. A spare chain stay would probably be good to have as that's known to crack and this one is still a touch tweaked (but the hanger is on the seat stay so it doesn't matter as much). I'll pm you.
    Looking at the top photo it looks like you already have the replacement swing arm. I had a '99 that cracked and that is what they replaced it with.

  11. #11
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    Ah, that must be why my chainstay says "FSR" while every other one I've seen says "Specialized". It does have the smaller hole through the cross member behind the main pivot bearing.

    Speaking of pivots, one of the last issues I'm having with the bike is the shock mount hardware. It seems that I'm missing some kind of bushing between the shock spacers and the frame as I'm getting metal-on-metal binding on both ends, and am afraid after some time it'll eat into the frame on some pretty thin parts. The lower mount I have is a sleeve and bushing type that just barely fits in the link, and when I tighten the bolt, it binds the shock so it can't pivot freely. I've resorted to leaving it torqued extremely lightly and using a lot of loctite on the threads. The top is loose too with the nylock nut just cinched. Should there be some kind of plastic washer/bushing between the hardware and the frame at the top and the link at the bottom? Anyone have detailed pics of the mount hardware?

  12. #12
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    You don't need anything other than the reducer bushings. In all likelihood it's only binding because the rear end is bent and probably causing some lateral stress on the shock. But no, you're not missing any parts. Just a shock and some aluminum reducers is what they came with.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  13. #13
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    Re: Help identify an old Stumpjumper? FSR frame

    The shock is very tight rotating on the bushing and the bolt is not much more than finger tight.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Help identify an old Stumpjumper? FSR frame-uploadfromtaptalk1414774566004.jpg  


  14. #14
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    That's just the way things were man

    Seriously though (and I can't believe mountain bikes are still made like this) the bushing hardware pivots within the DU bushing mounted in the shock. It's not a bearing and there's always going to be drag, especially if the DU bushing is new.

    You might be getting some binding if your reducers aren't a good fit and are squeezing the shock body at the eye. That's something to check. The aluminum bits that butt up against that linkage should be stationary. The rotation should be at the shock. You can pull all the hardware out, put it together and measure.

    If the reducers are moving at the linkage then yeah, something's not right.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  15. #15
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    Awesome then I'm all set. You're right it will rotate in the bushing and the spacers stay still. I may upgrade to enduro needle bearings but that's down the road. I'm just glad that the frame attachment points aren't getting worn. I like the older tech, it worked and still does. I rode a '14 stumpjumper this weekend and actually preferred my little enduro here.

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