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  1. #1
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    FSR Stumpy Comp 07 squeaks and creaks, help?

    I bought an 07 Stumpjumper FSR Comp on Ebay. I'm not sure I'd do that again. Anyway, the brakes emit a high pitch squeak almost always (when engaged) and can get really loud like a super loud goose when descending/and or with the slightest moisture. They're Avid Juicy Five. I have organic pads on order, but is there any other advice? Is this just the nature of disc brakes?

    Also, the bottom bracket (or somewhere near?) creaks when I pedal up a hill. How do I fix this?

    I'm mechanically inclined and want to learn more about bike maintainence but my experience is limited. Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.

  2. #2
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    Yes! First, my favorite cleaner is White Lightning's Metal Prep which can be very useful. With the brakes, I would pop the calipers off and take out the pads to examine them. If they are getting thin, get a new set. Actually, I would probably just get new sets for the front and rear anyway if it's used. Also, use the metal prep to clean the rotors and try not to get any kind of lube (that includes the oils from your fingers).

    As for the creak, check out the seat post first. Clean the post and the seat tube with a "clean" rag; that is, don't use a chemical that might find its way throughout the frame to remove the original lube. After that, I would partially disassemble the link and clean the connection points. Just remove the bolts from the seat stays first, paying attention to the conical washers that will fall out, and clean up the washers, bearing sides, and the aluminum of the frame. After that, I thinly applied bearing grease to the washer and to the surface of the aluminum (make sure to get a grease that's compatible with aluminum, but that shouldn't be hard). After that, I did the same thing with the seat tube mount. I would then just check all the other mounting hardware for proper torque, especially the chainstay to dropout bolts.
    1997 Specialized Stumpy Pro
    1998 Specialized Allez Epic
    2007 Specialized Stumpy FSR Elite
    2010 Specialized Roubaix Expert

  3. #3
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    The Brake issue

    Juicy 7 brake problems?

    search in the brake time section (juicy 5 or 7). There has been a lot of discussion on brake noise. Some things seem to work for some and don't for others.

    I swapped out the stock disc for Galfer dics. That's what worked for me. If I clean the disc I get a high pitch squeal so I don't do that.

    I your case as SD says since its used check everything out, but don't be afraid to try a few things. Check for any wheel bearing play that's also one source of turkey gobble brake noise.

    j
    '14 Specialized Enduro Carbon Expert 29
    '13 Surly Neck Romancer Pug
    1992 Cannondale DeltaV700
    And a couple of fixies

  4. #4
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    i have an enduro sl pro with the creaking also....i thought it was the cranks or the links but come to find out, it's the cable being routed under the bottom bracket or link.....i know that sounds very stupid but just check it out.....i said the same thing until my lbs showed it to me....my fix....wrap electric tape on the part of the cable.....let me know if that is it.....good luck....the cable basically rubs on the clamp....

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flytime
    . If I clean the disc I get a high pitch squeal so I don't do that.
    Same here. Even when using brake cleaner, the brakes still squeal. Sometimes after washing the bike, soaking wet rotors can cause squeal. The brakes seem to prefer dry rotors with a little pad surface wear for it to work at its optimal.`

  6. #6
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    Strange, I clean (and dry, as that's part of the cleaning process for me) the rotors fairly often and don't get squealing unless there's a lot of dust buildup. But, maybe that's just me.
    1997 Specialized Stumpy Pro
    1998 Specialized Allez Epic
    2007 Specialized Stumpy FSR Elite
    2010 Specialized Roubaix Expert

  7. #7
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    My Juicy 5s go from super quiet to turkey gobble and back again from ride to ride for no apparent reason. I find that cleaning the rotors with alcohol works well.

    As for the creaking someone on the forum came up with a good way to isolate the noise. I had the same noise under load and I thought it was my cranks or chainring bolts, but it was the pivot points. Get rolling, unclip and move your legs around like you are pedaling. If you still hear the noise it's probably the pivot points or seat post and it's time to re-grease. Worked for me.

  8. #8
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    On my 07 comp the brakes would squeal if the rotors were dirty and quiet if clean for the first few months, now they are just noisy when they fill like but most of the time are quiet. The creaking drove me nuts trying to find the source, I tried all the usual places, seat post, bottom bracket, saddle clamp, derailleur hanger, suspension pivots, cranks, pedals, chain ring bolts, shock mounts, etc. it was hit or miss, some would seem to stop it for a moment and then it would return. I finally found the source in the rear suspension shock link middle bolt. The middle connecting bolt is what holds the link in alignment, what I did is took the bolt out and cleaned all the threads and inside the link good with alcohol to remove any residue or grit then applied a very small amount of grease to the contact ledges on the bolts (don’t get any on the threads) then used BLUE thread-locker and torqued the bolt to spec. Since doing this I have not had any more creaking.

  9. #9
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    Assumuing you have Shim. pedals?

    For the creaking take your pedals apart, clean and regrease the bearings. I just chased this for a week (SJ FSR Elite).

    Clean the pedals before diassembly!!! Keep everything spotless as you take the pedal aprt. Remove the spindle and wipe it clean with a clean rag. Clean out the pedal housing really well and fill 1/3 of the way with grease. Lube the threads on the spindle before reassembling, thread the spindle back in the old crud will ooze out the end(more will come out during the first ride just wipe it off).

    The Avid's need to have a spacer added to the caliper, the stock setup has the pads rubbing on the spider arms of the rotor. I added ~3mm spacer on both the front and rear to realign.

    Take those dumb presta lock nuts you don't know what to do with and put them to work. Drill out the threads and presto you have the exact spacing you need. I've been running this way since July, no problems and I'm ~230 lbs. You'll still get a slight gobble (it's livable) but this has to do with the rotor slots more then anything I don't think you'll get rid of it with these rotors.

    Good Luck!

  10. #10
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    I recently had a clicking noise while pedaling with my 07 Enduro SL. Standing on the pedals and bouncing the suspension made no noise, only when pedaling. It turned out to be the bottom bracket bearing cups on the GXP (I think the same BB is on the 07 Stumpy). I tightened them up and no more noise. Stubborn ones can require antiseize on the threads or even teflon tape, but try re-tightening them first ($13 tool from Performance).

    I'm fighting the exact same brake noise with my Juicy 5's. I bought the organic pads as well, but they're so thick the rotor doesn't even fit between them. I currently have a post on the brake forum to see if anyone else has run into this. Let me know if it works out for you. I've been flushing quail from the bushes everytime I ride!

  11. #11
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    I have the same problem all and I am going to tear down the bike this winter and lube all the suspension pivot points. What do the Speshi dealers use on the suspension bolts and metal to metal contact points (including seatpost). I understand you may all use something, but what do most dealers use for this? Thanks!

  12. #12
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    07 Elite creaking

    I thought that before I go removing things and listening bolts that I would clarify first.

    So I got this bike about 2 months ago and just last week it is creaking when I pedal hard (climbing) or with real powerful strokes starting off. I have read on the post that it is most likely the link (middle bolt that looks like it goes straight through) or the seat post. I have cleaned the seat post and nothing. I guess my next step is the link.

    Question: should I take the bolts out or just try to tighten? I have never really worked with locktite before so I don't know if the seal is broken if it needs to be replaced or not.

    Also, I have not bought a torque wrench do I "need" one or is it just something that is nice to have?

    Thanks,
    Tom
    Last edited by Ral83178; 01-11-2008 at 11:25 AM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by neal_b
    Assumuing you have Shim. pedals?

    For the creaking take your pedals apart, clean and regrease the bearings. I just chased this for a week (SJ FSR Elite).
    Speaking of pedals, does anyone like these Shimano pedals that came stock on the bike? I found I had to set spring tension as tight as possible, otherwise my feet would pop out too easily on rocky descents. But, then when I did a snow ride a few weeks ago, with the tension that tight it was very difficult to get in them. Not that impressed, I might go back to my older Shimano pedals that even after years of abuse seem to have pretty decent range of tension.

  14. #14
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    That is the same way my stumpy was doing.

    Take the bolt out and clean it both inside and out to remove any grit and lube. The Link Spacer Bolt is actually a 3 piece design; if my memory is correct I believe the left side (non-drive) goes in first followed by the right side.

    On the loctite clean the threads good put a small amount of grease on the small lip on the bolts and be careful to keep it off the threads, then add a drop or two of BLUE loctite to the threads and torque down the bolts. Use only blue loctite.

    A torque wrench is best but you don’t have to have one. The torque spec for this bolt is the same as for the bottom bracket pivot at 200 - 230in . lb. I didn’t have a torque wrench scaled in inch pounds, just make sure the bolt is good and tight and then let the bike sit for a day so the loctite will have time to cure.

    Since doing this I have had no creaking for 4 months

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the reply.

    I actually went ahead and re-torqued all the bolts on the rear triangle. I picked up a pretty cheap torque wrench at northern tools (www.northertool.com) for $35 or so (figured that I could always use one).

    Anyway… I torqued everything down on Saturday and today I took one real powerful stroke and what do you know CREAK… I tightened up the rear skewer and it seemed to do a great bit to reduce the noise. Only thing here is I don’t know how tight is too tight. Is it possible as well that due to the cold weather that the bike does not have as much flex hence the sounds?

    While I was working on the rear I noticed that the plastic piece that is fastened to the drive side of the spokes was snapped (not sure what to call it). Is this really needed and should I replace or is it okay not to have it as long as the bike is in tune (not going further than the largest chain ring)?

  16. #16
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    MY stumpy was the same way and I checked everything.

    My fix for the creak was the link spacer bolt. Tighten the bolts holding your chain rings together and you may want to remove and clean the rear derailleur hanger and add a little grease between it and the dropout, if you do be careful the bolt connecting it is easy to break. I was taught that the quick release should leave an indention in the palm of your hand for a few seconds after you tighten them up, it has always work ok for me.

    The plastic disk…. Some folks remove them some leave them, if it is broken I would remove it I usually leave them to protect the spokes in case the chain jumps off the large cog, but that’s just me.

    Back to the creak ….just tightening the bolts did not work for me I think there was a slight miss alignment and that was where cause of my creak was. After removing, cleaning and re-torqueing the bolts with fresh loctite no more problems. Once you break the bond of the loctite it doesn’t hold very well anymore so reaply it.

    I have ridden with the temp as low as 23 in the last few weeks and no creaks. Start checking the areas I listed in my first post and one of them should fix the problem

    Good luck

  17. #17
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    where do you guys get the torque specs?

  18. #18
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    Torque specs

    They are on Specialized's site (help and support> mannuals & tech> then find your bike. the torques are towards the end.

    http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCGlo...Name=downloads

  19. #19
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    cool thanks!

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