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  1. #1
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    FSR Linkage Retorque/Tighten?

    I have a new to me/pre-owned/low miles 2011 FSR that I'm getting acquainted with... it has a little over 100 fairly hard miles on it.

    I felt a little clunk/play in the rear end when setting the bike on ground. Went to check to make sure everything was tight and the shock wishbone where it attached to the rocker (terms make sense?) had come loose. Is this common? Is there any preventative measures to alleviate this from happening (blue locktite?) Is there a recommended interval at which to check the linkage hardware?

    Appreciate any input. Sorry if this question has been asked before but initial searches only brought up bearing replacement

  2. #2
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    Reputation: jsj3831's Avatar
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    I would disassemble the rear, check all the bearings and hardware, and reassemble, torque everything to spec and yes, blue toctite should be used on most of the bolts. Get an owners manual off the S website and it will specify what needs Loctite and the torque values. I have not had a bolt go loose but I think it's a warning sign that would encourage me double check everything else. I have had bearings go bad in as little as three months.

  3. #3
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    Thanks man! Downloaded the manual... will dive into it later this week.

    Hopefully the lower clevis/s link hardware coming loose (everything else was solid) was due to someone previously playing around with shock or checking linkage without shock load - and failed to loctite it again. Make any sense?

  4. #4
    The Unaffiliated
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    You probably know this already, but just in case you don't (like I didn't the first time), several of the bolts are made of surprisingly soft aluminum.

    There are few worse feelings while working on a bike than having the wrench suddenly spin in the bolt and seeing that the bolt is still torqued down...

    Also, can moving the suspension through its full range with an empty shock cause hardware to loosen? Or do you mean disconnecting the shock and not putting it back tight?

  5. #5
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    I kinda figured I might have to use caution given it was anodized (assuming aluminum) but definitely appreciate the heads up.

    I meant disconnecting and not tightening. Seems to be holding ok after tightening.

    Another question - is there any substantial risk of damage when descending the occasional technical section in pro-pedal mode? I was lead to believe there's no risk by a shop but I seem to be getting a little more residue on the shock shaft...

  6. #6
    Waiting for peace
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    Pro-Pedal, as far as I remember, is really not made for hammering down technical trails. It's to keep bobbing in check while headed up or along trails, it also promotes less control over the bike as the wheel will have less consistent contact with the ground. I'm fairly sure that the only "damage" that will occur is wear to the compression shim, making the Pro-Pedal less effective in being able to control the oil flow after some time, which is its primary function. As to the additional residue: I suspect that it is Float Fluid that has seeped passed the main air seal in the the air can and may indicate that it's time for a service to the shock.

  7. #7
    old fart
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    I find it is useful to undertake an annual service where you remove the shock, cycle the suspension fully and then disassemble, clean and inspect all the bearings and fasteners. Blue loctite all FSR nuts on assembly. I have had a horst linkage come loose because I forgot to loctite the nut.

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