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  1. #1
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    Extra wheelset for my S-Works 29

    I want an extra wheel set for my 2013 S-Works Epic.

    I assume that any front wheel with 100 mm hub and 9 mm thru bolt or 5 mm QR will fit.

    But what are the options for the rear wheel if I want to stick with the 142+ hub and not adjust gear wire and derailleur each time I shall swap the wheel?

    Alternatively I can build the wheel myself. But where do I find a high quality rear 142+ hub? The crappy HiLo 142+ is no option.

  2. #2
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    I wanted an extra wheelset for my SJ, so I searched around and found a damaged Roval 142+ rear wheel that had the DT240 hub. It's pretty much the only way to get a 142+ rear hub. With a standard 142 hub you have to adjust the RD every time you swap wheels.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
    2014 Fatboy

  3. #3
    old fart
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikGBL View Post
    I want an extra wheel set for my 2013 S-Works Epic.

    I assume that any front wheel with 100 mm hub and 9 mm thru bolt or 5 mm QR will fit.

    But what are the options for the rear wheel if I want to stick with the 142+ hub and not adjust gear wire and derailleur each time I shall swap the wheel?

    Alternatively I can build the wheel myself. But where do I find a high quality rear 142+ hub? The crappy HiLo 142+ is no option.
    I wouldn't worry too much about the 142+ factor. I have found it to be inconsequential. I have also found that it is a good idea to have an additional wheelset that you can use for different conditions.

    I have commissioned a Easton Haven wheelset for winter riding (Hans Dampf on the rear Ground Control on the front). Due to the wider rim It can mount a wider, fuller volume tyre than my Roval SL's and the wheelset is still reasonably light at just under 1800gms. Foolproof UST with no requirement for rim strips was a clincher (as was the price). Longevity unknown but they are virtually silent - quite a difference over the Roval's.

    As for the 2mm shift of the rear chainline - I compensate with a few tuns of the shift adjuster - takes about 20 seconds.

  4. #4
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    You are probably right, skiwi, I should relax about the "+" and use a 142 wheel set. The best of all is that I then already have the wheel set I need because I have built a 29er wheel set on DT Swiss 240s hubs which can be converted to 142 XX1. That is of course a little more effort than 2 second of wire adjustment but easier than change tubeless tires. I put the home built tires on my Chinese hard tail. It is best wheel set I have tried. I used LB wide rims and Pillar spokes. With the wide rim I can run them tubeless with a pressure as low 20 psi with Racing Ralph 2.25 even if my weight is 92 kg plus gear. With this low pressure they run so smooth on the trails that I can use a rigid fork (for rough conditions I use the Epic).

    I will probably build another set of these wheels.

  5. #5
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    The new trend towards larger volume tyres is something that happened in 26er land a few years back - I am personally comfortable with rims around the 21mm internal width to mount tyres up to 2.4 - and they do make a nice difference to the handling of the bike.

    Both the Roval SL's and the Haven's are 21mm - I am building a set of Stan's Arch for winter plugging - these are 19mm internal but for a true mud tyre you don't want width as much as vertical grip so these should be ideal. Both the Haven's and the Stan's are 142 obviously.

    +1 for the Ron's - I have a 2.25 Ron on the front of my Roval wheelset. Love it.

  6. #6
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    I have a set of hardly used hubs and the straight pull spokes off 2012 s works rovals. The rear hub has ceramic hybrid bearings and the spokes are the 2012 ones with the mix of DT black revs and red aerolites. I wanted to change wheel sets easily so had to go with normal hubs. I'm in the UK if its of interest

  7. #7
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    Moda, I have sent a personal message to you about your hubs.

  8. #8
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    Erik

    I cant see that i have any message, can you resend..

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