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  1. #201
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    Yep, the motor needs to lose the most wieght. I have gone from the Clydsdale weight class 199 to about 166 in the last year. Got my new bike and I feel fast and light. That being said, I still need to lose another 5-6 pounds, but I bet at this point losing that is going to do little to my performance on the bike.

    I've always had a bit of the "weight Wennie" in me, so swapping light parts just seems natural. Still, I doubt I can improve that much over what an Epic S-Works already sits at for a reasonable cost. Who am I kidding, this thing is way past reasonable!

    Thanks for the discussion guys!

    Rob

  2. #202
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    Nice bike but why are you going for a RP23?

  3. #203
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    for those who want to know about weights relationship to speed uphill, this is a helpful chart developed by a cyclist in Austin, TX named Jack Mott. It was originally created to show aerodynamics relationship to weight, but it is helpful for us mtbers as well.

    Clearly, a 40k climb doesn't happen often (unless you're racing cohutta) but even still, weight, even the most slight increases, greatly changes your speed when the gradient is over 5%

    I race at 162lbs for mt road races. When I'm 165lbs, i can absolutely tell in the numbers.

    Anyway, hope this helps the discussion some.




    Keep in mind the coefficients of friction used for this chart are MUCH lower than those a mtb produces. Thus deflating the weight savings gains one would expect to see.

  4. #204
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    I don't quite understand the data, but I do agree on the weight vs climbing. I've lost 70 odd pounds the past 3 years, my new found speed directly correlates to the weightloss. I have a better bike now, and I'm able to train better and improve some skills, but the weightloss has been the primary factor for everything. As I get closer to my goal weight, the differences seem to be more significant, i.e. losing the first 20lbs was a huge improvement, but losing 5lbs now seems just a huge. (trouble is actually getting the final 15lbs off might take me another 3 years!)
    And talking about Cohutta, I feel when conditions are bad, even if it's all just fire road, the heavier rider you are the more your tires just fractionally dig into the soften surface. So though I don't think the weather bothers me much more than most, I think the extra weight does slow me down more so in wet conditions. Even when riders are down to ideal weight, the smaller riders I think have slight advantage beyond weight/vs power for climbing on damp hardpack.

  5. #205
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    Thx for all the weight-to-performance input - I've hijacked the thread, sorry.

    Unfortunately, stories around losing body mass and better performance don't work. Why? If you've lost weight recently, I'm guessing that you increased your activity level (in addition to dietary changes). This would naturally improve your performance, so is it the weight loss, the improved cardio, or a bit of both? I just don't think it helps the "lighter bike" argument.

    What I need is a study to show my wife:

    "Hey, my little love dumpling, remember all those random packages that keep showing up at the house? Yeah, like the $350 seat tube, or those overpriced bolts? Well, you can't yell at me any more because it is scientifically proven to make me faster. Yep, you heard me, sci-en-ti-fic!"

  6. #206
    amd
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    It is scientifically proven that a lighter bike will make you go faster. There is no question about that. (Unless you're talking about going down a hill for a long time).

    The data above shows the relationship between grade % and weight loss necessary to make time gains while going up that grade. As the grade gets steeper you'll notice the weight needed to make gains go down quickly. The distance is measured at 40k but you can do some quick math to make it shorter.

    So the question isn't IF it makes you faster, but rather how much that is worth to you in $.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirkinho View Post
    Nice bike but why are you going for a RP23?
    Dont know, maybe just because i like the fork sooo much, and i am a gear NERD. And for the cost of 2 services on the brain rear damper i can get a rp23 shock which i can service and tune by myself. And now that i actiually have started to ride the bike quite offen i need at least 2 services on my damper for one season. And i am always ready to try something different, i agree that the new brain works better than the 2012 but sometimes i would like to have the control over my suspension.

    But right now i dont want to spend more money on bikes. I have 11 bikes and several frames wheels and stuff laying around. But there propperbly won`t go long time before i find something new that i just have to own :-)

  8. #208
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    A few upgrades to the Epic:

    Enve wheels w' Chris King hubs and finishing kit, (ENVE seat-post went on after the pic) + 15 thru-axle lowers on the fork which made a very noticeable difference in handling. The front tire doesn't push out as much when cornering hard.

    Epic S-Works 2013-img_0478-copy.jpg

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas645 View Post
    Looks awesome. I take it you got the frameset and went from there?
    Thanks heaps mate!

    I got a great deal on a full bike, and moved the Roval wheel set and S-Works finishing kit on to my Stumpy SS 29er.

  10. #210
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    What´s the Price for the enve-rims in the US? In Germany one rim costs almost €1.000.-
    So i can not understand why so many People buy that rim. The rim is not really light. Ok, the rim seems to be stiff. But I think a S-Works Epic Needs lighter rims!

    Bye
    Marcus

  11. #211
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    Hi Marcus,

    There's so much more to a good wheel-set than weight my friend!

    The extra stiffness of the rims as well as the way the Chris King hubs roll made a big difference to the bike. You can build a very light wheel-set using Stans rims, but I guarantee you they'd be noodles (in comparison).

    The value equation is different for everyone and the Roval Carbon SLs are a great wheel-set and much cheaper. In my case, and everyone is different, the Enve w' Chris King and 15mm TA is exactly what I wanted.

    Cheers! Jim

    Quote Originally Posted by epicbiker View Post
    What´s the Price for the enve-rims in the US? In Germany one rim costs almost €1.000.-
    So i can not understand why so many People buy that rim. The rim is not really light. Ok, the rim seems to be stiff. But I think a S-Works Epic Needs lighter rims!

    Bye
    Marcus
    Last edited by jathanas; 06-24-2013 at 06:51 PM.

  12. #212
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    Epic S-Works 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by jathanas View Post
    A few upgrades to the Epic:

    Enve wheels w' Chris King hubs and finishing kit, (ENVE seat-post went on after the pic) + 15 thru-axle lowers on the fork which made a very noticeable difference in handling. The front tire doesn't push out as much when cornering hard.
    Are you getting the stealth Enve custom wheel decals to match the frame too?

    http://www.enve.com/accessories/customdecals.aspx

    The 15mm thru axle lowers are well worth fitting. From your picture it looks like you're using a stock Rock Shox Maxle Lite thru axle though. If you're going to the trouble of changing bits around a Tune DC15 thru axle is the way to go.

    Tightening a Tune DC15 Rock Shox Thru Axle Without An Allen Key

  13. #213
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    Thank you for both links my friend! You're not just an excellent source of info, but a scholar and a gentleman.

    The custom decals will add a nice touch, and the Tune DC15 is such a quality item!

    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Are you getting the stealth Enve custom wheel decals to match the frame too?

    ENVE Custom Wheel Decals for Road Bikes & Mountain Bikes

    The 15mm thru axle lowers are well worth fitting. From your picture it looks like you're using a stock Rock Shox Maxle Lite thru axle though. If you're going to the trouble of changing bits around a Tune DC15 thru axle is the way to go.

    Tightening a Tune DC15 Rock Shox Thru Axle Without An Allen Key

  14. #214
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    I need new BB bearings, (2nd time in 2000 miles). And I don't quite trust the cups, at least on the drive side. My shop is great, but they are busy and a bit far away. So rather than lose the bike for a few days I'm hoping I can purchase and the cups and bearings myself? Before I research it all I'm hoping someone can tell me what I need and if I can get it?

    I have a buddy with a press, but I might want to consider a press too, especially if it can do a headset too, as I think that one is about to go as well. It works fine but is stiff when I first move it after it's been sitting. Perhaps the bearings can be re-greased though.

  15. #215
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    Hi,

    Do you what bearings are in the 2013 Roval Control SL 29 front wheel?

    Thanks Pete

  16. #216
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    Epic S-Works 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by thegallery View Post
    I need new BB bearings, (2nd time in 2000 miles). And I don't quite trust the cups, at least on the drive side. My shop is great, but they are busy and a bit far away. So rather than lose the bike for a few days I'm hoping I can purchase and the cups and bearings myself? Before I research it all I'm hoping someone can tell me what I need and if I can get it?

    I have a buddy with a press, but I might want to consider a press too, especially if it can do a headset too, as I think that one is about to go as well. It works fine but is stiff when I first move it after it's been sitting. Perhaps the bearings can be re-greased though.
    Bottom Bracket
    Are you still using the same SRAM XX BB30 chainset? The bottom bracket to get looks to be the new Chris King PF30 one. Either that or an Enduro bearings XD-15 PF30 bottom bracket.

    The Chris King PF30 bottom brackets are $165 USD for steel bearings and $235 USD for the ceramic bearings.

    http://www.glorycycles.com/chkipfbobr.html

    You need to budget $55 USD for the Chris King grease injector too, along with a grease gun for flushing the bearings with fresh grease.

    http://chrisking.com/PFBB

    The other option that could be worth a try are the Enduro bearing bottom brackets. They offer a PF30 bottom bracket with steel angular contact bearings for $62 USD alongside their more expensive $230 USD ceramic XD-15 PF30 bottom brackets:

    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id232.html

    See this thread on the subject:

    Pf 30 issues

    These are the two Specialized PDFs relating to bottom bracket parts, depending upon which chainset you have.

    Specialized S-Works carbon chainset bottom bracket details (the one which comes with a stock bike)
    http://service.specialized.com/colla...G0276_revF.pdf

    Specialized PF30 bottom bracket (all chainsets)
    http://service.specialized.com/colla...G0401_revC.pdf

    Headset
    The carbon Epic headset bearings are drop in. You don't need a press for them as they come out by hand. Replacement bearings are readily available also. When you assemble the headset put plenty of marine grease around the bearings to try and keep the water out. The lower bearing in particular needs plenty of grease because it's most exposed.

    The individual Cane Creek bearing numbers that you need are:

    Upper- part number CBAA0174K. Outer Diameter 41.8mm (1"1/8 Italian) 40 (Steel). RRP £14.99

    Lower - part number CHSS6011. 52mm Press Fit (1.5") 40 (Steel) RRP £14.99

    Extra (UK) Ltd - Bearings

    Sta-Lube Marine Grease for keeping water out
    http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=SL3120
    Last edited by WR304; 07-10-2013 at 11:44 AM.

  17. #217
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    Epic S-Works 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by orbiplaya View Post
    Hi,

    Do you what bearings are in the 2013 Roval Control SL 29 front wheel?

    Thanks Pete
    Hub bearing replacement instructions:
    http://service.specialized.com/colla...tion-Guide.pdf

    Quote Originally Posted by 24hrsordie View Post
    2011 Roval Control SL 135mm & 142+ Spacing
    FRONT BEARING RIGHT BRG 6704 20X27X4 ENDURO BEARING
    FRONT BEARING LEFT BRG 6704 20X27X4 ENDURO BEARING
    REAR BEARING RIGHT BRG 6902 15x28x7 ENDURO BEARING
    REAR BEARING LEFT BRG 6902 15x28x7 ENDURO BEARING
    FREEHUB 9/10 SPD 15MM AXLE DT SWISS 240 POWERED

    135mm Spacing
    REAR SPOKE-DRIVE SIDE SPK DT REVOLUTION 2.0X1.5MM 14G 300MM BLK STRAIGHT PULL HEAD
    REAR SPOKE-DRIVE SIDE SPK DT AEROLITE 300MM RED STRAIGHT PULL HEAD
    REAR SPOKE-NON DRIVE SIDE SPK DT REVOLUTION 2.0X1.5MM 14G 302MM BLK STRAIGHT PULL HEAD
    REAR SPOKE-NON DRIVE SIDE SPK DT AEROLITE 302MM RED STRAIGHT PULL HEAD

    142+ Spacing
    REAR SPOKE-DRIVE SIDE SPK DT REVOLUTION 2.0X1.5MM 14G 300MM BLK STRAIGHT PULL HEAD
    REAR SPOKE-DRIVE SIDE SPK DT AEROLITE 300MM RED STRAIGHT PULL HEAD
    REAR SPOKE-NON DRIVE SIDE SPK DT REVOLUTION 2.0X1.5MM 14G 302MM BLK STRAIGHT PULL HEAD
    REAR SPOKE-NON DRIVE SIDE SPK DT AEROLITE 302MM RED STRAIGHT PULL HEAD


    FRONT SPOKE-RIGHT SPK DT REVOLUTION 2.0X1.5MM 14G 289MM BLK STRAIGHT PULL HEAD
    FRONT SPOKE-RIGHT SPK DT AEROLITE 289MM RED STRAIGHT PULL HEAD
    FRONT SPOKE-LEFT SPK DT REVOLUTION 2.0X1.5MM 14G 299MM BLK STRAIGHT PULL HEAD
    FRONT SPOKE-LEFT SPK DT AEROLITE 299MM RED STRAIGHT PULL HEAD

    Hope this helps!!
    Roval SL control carbon wheelset bearings (?)

  18. #218
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    bearings are standard PF30/BB30 bearings (42x30x7). Cups are #S111600013. The spacers and seals are bespoke.

    BTW you don't need a press for PF.

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiwi View Post
    bearings are standard PF30/BB30 bearings (42x30x7). Cups are #S111600013. The spacers and seals are bespoke.

    BTW you don't need a press for PF.
    Skiwi,

    I currently have a SRAM XX crank.
    If I am to replace it to a SRAM XX-1 crank what parts would I need in order to fit the crank into my S-Worlk Epic 2013?

    Ofir

  20. #220
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    Thank you WR304,

    The links and post's will be a huge help.

    The data is taken from the 2011 Roval's I will have to remove them and double check nothing has changed.

    Pete

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaadd View Post
    Skiwi,

    I currently have a SRAM XX crank.
    If I am to replace it to a SRAM XX-1 crank what parts would I need in order to fit the crank into my S-Worlk Epic 2013?

    Ofir

    Your best bet would be to contact Spec service. Otherwise trial and error would be all I could suggest. bearings and cups are straight forward, but your end-float and sealing of the bearings with spacers and seals would require trail and error to get right. For the 2013 bike, you aalready have the modified chain stays with improved clearance to the the cranks so, as long as your Q is not less than the S-W cranks you'd be fine in that regard....

  22. #222
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    Epic S-Works 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by orbiplaya View Post
    Thank you WR304,

    The links and post's will be a huge help.

    The data is taken from the 2011 Roval's I will have to remove them and double check nothing has changed.

    Pete
    I'm fairly sure the front hub bearing size is unchanged from 2011 through to 2013. The hub endcaps pull off by hand so you can easily measure the bearing with a caliper to make sure before ordering replacements.

  23. #223
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    Epic S-Works 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by blaadd View Post
    Skiwi,

    I currently have a SRAM XX crank.
    If I am to replace it to a SRAM XX-1 crank what parts would I need in order to fit the crank into my S-Worlk Epic 2013?

    Ofir
    If you're using a SRAM XX crank what bottom bracket are you using currently? If you have a standard SRAM PF30 bottom bracket fitted it looks like you can remove the XX crank and fit the XX1 crank without needing to change anything else. The same PF30 bottom bracket being used for both SRAM chainsets.

    The large spacer listed on page 21 of the SRAM manual for the drive side comes with the new XX1 chainset.

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/QO...e_manual_0.pdf

  24. #224
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    I have a technical question for the thread. I have a 2013 sworks epic. the bb started creaking a couple months after owning it so I had a specialized mechanic work on it and reglue the bb cups in. After 3 rides its creaking again. Does anyone know if specialized has a specific glue/epoxy they recommend for that carbon shell and cups?
    Let's get down to the Neetty Greetty.

  25. #225
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    Epic S-Works 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by Mooseknuckle View Post
    I have a technical question for the thread. I have a 2013 sworks epic. the bb started creaking a couple months after owning it so I had a specialized mechanic work on it and reglue the bb cups in. After 3 rides its creaking again. Does anyone know if specialized has a specific glue/epoxy they recommend for that carbon shell and cups?
    It's listed in the Specialized S-Works carbon chainset bottom bracket manual under required tools:

    http://service.specialized.com/colla...G0276_revF.pdf

    „ - 3M DP 420 Epoxy packet (includes epoxy, alcohol wipe and applicator)
    „ - Threadlocker (Blue 242, Green 640)

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mooseknuckle View Post
    I have a technical question for the thread. I have a 2013 sworks epic. the bb started creaking a couple months after owning it so I had a specialized mechanic work on it and reglue the bb cups in. After 3 rides its creaking again. Does anyone know if specialized has a specific glue/epoxy they recommend for that carbon shell and cups?
    Creaks are very hard to locate. IME you can be100% that the creak is coming from the BB only to find out that it is something else. For example, I have found a very annoying creak was actually a cassette not tightened up enough on the FWH.

    Check chainring bolts, FWH/cassette & pedals.

    I have no creaking and simply use grease for the PF30 cups. Having said that a bit of loctite blue wouldn't be a bad idea (loctite 242)

  27. #227
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    Can any of you owners post your rear shock pressures and weight for this 2013 Autosag brain shock. I'm not sure if mine has gone bad. I'm 83kg and am having to put 220psi in to hit 11mm/25% sag. I'm pretty sure I used to put 190 in it.
    Additionally if I put the brain to full firm and push down firmly in the saddle I can get about 6mm of movement. If i really push hard on it quickly, using more weight I can push it to 15mm. The brain seems a bit dodgy . Can any of you check this for me as well.
    I did have my pressures written down but can't find the manual.

  28. #228
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    Good job! Front Wheel bearing size is unchanged from 2011 through to 2013!

    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    I'm fairly sure the front hub bearing size is unchanged from 2011 through to 2013. The hub endcaps pull off by hand so you can easily measure the bearing with a caliper to make sure before ordering replacements.
    Hi WR304,

    You were bang on the money the 2013 front Roval's have unchanged bearings.

    Bought a pack of 10 for future use.

    Pete

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    New question here. Stages X9 Power meter compatibility?

    Hi,

    Not for the lack of searching I have come back for some more advice here.

    I'm looking to put a stages Sram GXP X9 Power meter onto my 2013 S-Works Epic 29er.

    Has anyone had any success or knowledge of the compatibility of X9 Chainset/Crankset?

    I still have the original crankset and not owning an X9 crankset it's impossible for me to make the measurement that the Stages website suggest.

    Hope you can help.

    Pete

  30. #230
    amd
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    The '13 epic has a bb30 bottom bracket which would make a gxp arm not compatible (unless you're running an adapter and your current crank is gxp).

    I've run a bb30 x9 arm on that bike and it works great.
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  31. #231
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    Hi amd,

    Thanks for replying,

    You are correct of course but there are no BB30 X9 "Stages" crank arms available in the UK yet so I have been told

    Today to get it running if it was to fit, I would need to purchase GXP crankset, BB30 to GXP adapters and the GXP Stages crank arm.

    With your X9 arm on do you happen to know the clearance that is needed to run a stages power meter? see attached image

    Epic S-Works 2013-crankclearancenotext.jpg

    Thanks Pete

  32. #232
    amd
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    The clearance isn't an issue. It IS on WC epics.

    Try eBay. Might get lucky and find an arm.
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  33. #233
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    Hi amd,

    Thank you quite a bit of info there, I didn't know there was a World cup edition of the Epic. Sheds some more light on some of the information I had been gathering.

    I will have a good look up at the differences compared to mine.

    Still be nice to know if anyone as installed Stages as well.

    Pete

  34. #234
    amd
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    The World Cup epics started production in 2014 so you're set.
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  35. #235
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    I saw a couple guys ask for weights.
    Can someone please weigh their 2013 Epic S-Works?
    I'm especially curious about Pete N's. Thx!
    The configuration doesn't matter. We can all guestimate our parts on it.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by egebhardt View Post
    I saw a couple guys ask for weights.
    Can someone please weigh their 2013 Epic S-Works?
    I'm especially curious about Pete N's. Thx!
    The configuration doesn't matter. We can all guestimate our parts on it.

    Stock right off the showroom floor…with Crank Brother Mallets right at 23…I am taking it back in and will have it weighed again…only thing I changed was putting my I 9s on it...

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by egebhardt View Post
    I saw a couple guys ask for weights.
    Can someone please weigh their 2013 Epic S-Works?
    I'm especially curious about Pete N's. Thx!
    The configuration doesn't matter. We can all guestimate our parts on it.
    Sorry, I can't help as I'm now on a 14 SW Epic WC.

  38. #238
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    Well, I was in the LBS today...and got my weight...not bad...so, basically a stock 2013 S-Works Epic, tubeless I9 Enduro's, Crank Brother Mallets...came in at 24.11 Lbs.

    Epic S-Works 2013-2013-s-works.jpg

    I can eat a few less cheeseburgers and get faster...but it really flies now...saw 33 MPH yesterday headed down a long incline.

  39. #239
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    mine is 23.97 lbs m size epic s works 2013 with mavic crossmax slr n xx1
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Epic S-Works 2013-img_0370.jpg  


  40. #240
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    That's 24lbs, 11oz.

  41. #241
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    2013 Specialized S-Works Epic Large Custom Build

    Specialized S-Works Epic Large Custom
    21lbs 7oz.(and that is with a 120mm fork)
    No I do not have a pic of it on the scale
    It was weighed at the shop who assembled it for me.
    Ultimate Race/Trail bike
    2014 Rock Shox Sid XX 120mm 29er 15mm T/A Remote lockout Fork (Way better than 100mm Brain Fork)
    Sram XX1 Cassette 10-42
    Sram XX1 Shifter
    SramXX1 Chain
    Sram XX1 Rear derailleur
    Raceface Next Sl carbon crankset with 26t direct mount chainring (Lightest production crankset available)
    2014 Roval Carbon SL Wheelset (1370 gm total wheelset weight)
    S-Works Fast Trak 2.0 tires front and rear
    2013 S-Works Toupe saddle(the really light one that everybody wants)
    Loaded Precision X-Lite Ti 90mm stem (super light)
    Loaded Precision X-Lite Carbon Flat Bar(super light)
    Formula R1 Racing brakeset with all the really light goodies.
    Kevlar hoses, Carbon levers, FCS (Feeling Control System and TFRA (Tool Free Reach Adjust).(Lightest Brakeset Available)
    Formula 2 piece anodized rotors 160/160
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Epic S-Works 2013-dsc04287.jpg  

    Epic S-Works 2013-dsc04279.jpg  

    Epic S-Works 2013-dsc04282.jpg  

    Epic S-Works 2013-dsc04283.jpg  

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