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  1. #1
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    Enduro SL recomended service info req,d.

    Hi I,m servicing my 2007/8 Endro SL carbon pro - ready for 2011.
    What is the recomended practice for my rear suss bushings and bearings ?
    I know SANTA CRUZ owners are always having to service theirs - but mine seem trouble free ? .
    What do other owners reccomend ?
    Is there anything I shoud do just as a precaution ?
    Is there anything else on the ENTIRE bike that you would reccomend I check or service while its in bits ?

  2. #2
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    remove the shock and rear wheel. Cycle the rear tri-angle up and down a few times. crunching sounds yes or no? No, re-assemble and ride. Yes, find the offending bearing and replace.

  3. #3
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    PB Matrix +1

    AND: I would send the shock and fork in for their respective 150hr service intervals even if you don't have that many hours on them..... the oil is surely started to age and that increases its relative acidity and its resistance to breakdown under the heat stress of riding; both of these work in concert to make the bike feel less 'solid' while riding. There may be updated parts that will ensure that you keep riding most of not all of the summer!

  4. #4
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    Maybe a daft question??

    Ive got a 08 s-works which i stripped down the other day and noticed the rear end feeling restrictive and a crunch to the bearings.

    Ive since re-built without repacing the bearings.

    Would i notice a great deal of difference in replacing the bearings?

  5. #5
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    oh ya!

    It will feel like a new bike!

  6. #6
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    might just replace the entire bearings then - while Ive got it in bits - they particularly expensive , or hard to get hold of - anyone done this?
    Did you use spesh supplied bearings - or local bearing shop
    was it hard to do I.E. any special tools required.
    Also am using the walkthrough fork service off here - Is there a walkthrough Shock Service ? ...speci tech???? .......Matrix.......anyone ??????

  7. #7
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    Local bearing shop of course,

    need a blind hole bearing puller for the paired bearings near the rear axel on the seat stay. There is a shoulder inside the seat stay bearing holes that will not allow you to press the bearings out from the other side.

    and More or less here is how a shock service goes

    remove rear wheel
    Remove shock from the bike
    Remove the air valve core
    Place top of shock into padded vice
    Unscrew air can with strap wrench if needed
    remove air can
    clean old crap off
    lube all seals (inner and outer)with Dow33 silicon grease or Slick Honey (if you use slicck honey, repeat this service often)
    replace air can onto shaft, and add a few drops of synthetic 5-20 Mobile 1 oil to the inside of the can, keep shock up right and replace into the bike
    Slightly compress the rear tri-angle of the bike to get some leverage on the shaft and screw the air can hand tight onto the shock body.
    replace valve core
    add air to old settings (like 170ish PSI)
    test ride
    good luck

  8. #8
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    Thanks Matrix & everybody else - Ive absolutely brutalised this bike over thousands of miles of mountains - moors and trail centres and its never let me down - its been brilliant - so I,m doing a HUUUGE service and rebuild myself for my final year with it - thanks for the help and advice.

  9. #9
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    every time I try and buy dow corning 33 grease on line all I get is links to this stuff..........
    MOLYKOTEŽ 33 EXTREME LOW TEMP. BEARING GREASE, LIGHT
    Now I like a good ride as much as the next man, and the north yorks moors can get a bit parky ..........but I aint never gonna ride at MINUS 71 DEG C !!!!!!! or ABOVE 204 C !!!!!!!
    or have I just googled up the wrong stuff ??
    Will my MANITOU - "M" Prep suffice ????

  10. #10
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    The Molykote 33 low temp is what I have used for the last three years and it works great.

    I have not had any luck removing the seat stay bearings with a blind puller. What I do is remove the seal on one bearing, dremel a slot in the inner race in order to pop out a couple of bearings, at this point the inner race and bearings will fall out then its a simple process of pressing out the bearing on the opposite side then reverse the process and press out the remainder of the bearing you initially cut. It will take you a couple of minutes to figure out the first one but the rest will be a piece of cake.

  11. #11
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    Cheers RNBN , I,d have thought bearing races would be case hardened ???? but I ,ll bear that advice in mind - Cheers .

  12. #12
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    Carbide is harder then steel and cuts them easy enough, Remember all you need to do is produce enough of a slot to remove three or four bearings and the rest will fall out into your hand.

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