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Enduro SL - High Shock/BB Height vs Low Shock/BB Height

5K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  PB Matrix 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,

Can anyone help providing me with some info regarding the difference between shock settings? What's the best setting for type of riding? My shock is currently on the High setting. I do mostly technical XC and some light downhill so I wonder if bike might perform better if I move it to Low setting.

Cheers.
 
#2 ·
if you do mostly tech xc, then leave it where it is. if you put it in the low setting, it will drop the bb and slacken the ht angle, making it better suited for DH type stuff. You can also drop the stanchions in the crowns, to steepen the ht angle, going by the max and min markings on the tubes themselves.

On the inverse, i was not able to drop by stanchions in the crowns ENOUGH, so i machined the attitude and compression adjusters so i could completely slam the tubes in the crowns. Hope that helps
 
#3 ·
I ride mostly tech xc and have always used the low/slack setting. I guess I just haven't had the bike working for long enough to try out the high setting. The low/slack feels great though, steering seems fine.

Are you saying your stanchions are barely inside of the top crown? That's walking a fine line.
 
#4 ·
TXPhisher said:
I ride mostly tech xc and have always used the low/slack setting. I guess I just haven't had the bike working for long enough to try out the high setting. The low/slack feels great though, steering seems fine.

Are you saying your stanchions are barely inside of the top crown? That's walking a fine line.
the crown is completely contacting the stanchion, just machined the adjusters so i could lower it to the max height. kinna BS that spec didnt build it accordingly
 
#5 ·
Yeah, in the tech xc stuff run it in high position for the shock and I run the forks 10mm above the top triple clamp. This set up will give you pedal clearance for technical and steering geometry quick for xc type rides.
if it's just the freeride park drop the shock, drop the forks. I run the forks all the way to the machine marks on the sliders where the top adjusters screw in. don't pay too much attention to the marks on the forks-


SJensen, Nice work on getting the extra 2-3mm of extension. Is it hard to twist the attitude knob when riding ? how about the compression? I like to mess with mine while I ride so I'm not sure if machining them off with my hacksaw and chisel is in the future;) especially if it's hard to adjust while moving.
 
#7 ·
2_wheels said:
Yeah, in the tech xc stuff run it in high position for the shock and I run the forks 10mm above the top triple clamp. This set up will give you pedal clearance for technical and steering geometry quick for xc type rides.
if it's just the freeride park drop the shock, drop the forks. I run the forks all the way to the machine marks on the sliders where the top adjusters screw in. don't pay too much attention to the marks on the forks-

SJensen, Nice work on getting the extra 2-3mm of extension. Is it hard to twist the attitude knob when riding ? how about the compression? I like to mess with mine while I ride so I'm not sure if machining them off with my hacksaw and chisel is in the future;) especially if it's hard to adjust while moving.
Never have a problem using any of the controls, but then again, on a normal ride, i may touch the adjuster once, if that. I'm a tall guy, and I find leaving it at full travel keeps my back from hurting on longer rides, as most of my rides exceed 4 hours plus. Bike still climbs like a beast.
 
#8 ·
I was one of those previously with a definite preference for the lower BB setting, despite most of my riding being single track and not predominantly downhill orientated. However, now at last, I can claim that my E150 Forks and AFR Shock are running as they should and I have relentlessly fine-tuned the compression & rebound for both in order to get the sweet-spot for my general riding style, I have totally changed tack on this;

Previously, with either poor-running or ill set-up E150 Forks and AFR Shock, it was nigh-on impossible to pedal efficiently with the BB fitted on the higher setting

However, (for me at least; at 6', around 190 lbs on a large framed Enduro SL Pro), with the supension fully sorted; the seat height very high/XC style (ie, when the pedal is at its lowest point, the leg is nigh-on fully extended when seated); the seat set well forward on the rails and the bars similarly tilted slightly forward (in order to get those shoulders forward/pretty-much in line with the fork setting dials when aggressively pedalling), I have now become a convert to the higher BB setting

For me, in this configuration this bike can be ridden all day and at great efficiency/speed and my riding mates with SL's have also become converts and gone this way too. You have the benefit of the greater ground clearance on a bike that will fly on the trail and up-hill climbs;

However, I found an initial down-side to the set-up described - Due to the relatively unusual 'sit-up & beg' riding position & general geometry of the Enduro SL; when you first set up the bike in a manner described; it can feel like a mistake because although you are using the same muscle range as normal for pedalling, you are using the muscles either slightly more extended or slightly differently proportioned/pronounced to what you may commonly be used to. Therefore, after the first ride it feels like really hard work and the rear-top of your Adductor Brevis (rear thigh, just below the buttock line) and low spot on the Adductor Magnus (area leading towards the knee) will feel particularly sore for these reasons. However, if you persevere for say four 20 mile hard-push rides; these muscle areas become accustomed to the slightly different expectations put upon them and pedalling becomes far easier and much more efficient

Hey, I'm no Physician so don't sue me if you end up with six weeks off work, in traction in a hospital ward But if you feel you aren't getting good efficiency from your Enduro SL's pedalling I would recommend you trying to adopt this set-up principle to your own body make-up and give it a whirl; after-all, you can always use it for comparison and revert back

At the end of the day, bike set-up is pretty much a personal preference thing and without doubt, the Enduro SL has a lot of adjustment options to be tinkered around with to the heart's content
 
#10 ·
Dead E150? What happened this time?

As for the what Lipps said above, after re-reading it, he basically said, leave it in the high position anyway.

But, here is my take on the adjustments:

Long Front Fork + Low BB Height = DH Bombing machine (Slackest Head Angle)

Shortened Front Fork + High BB Height = Very Responsive Steering (Steepest Head Angle)

Shortened Fork + Low BB Height = All Mountian Bike (Climbs Well, DH Great)

Long Front Fork + High BB = Haven't tried this combination yet
 
#11 ·
PB Matrix said:
Dead E150? What happened this time?

As for the what Lipps said above, after re-reading it, he basically said, leave it in the high position anyway.

But, here is my take on the adjustments:

Long Front Fork + Low BB Height = DH Bombing machine (Slackest Head Angle)

Shortened Front Fork + High BB Height = Very Responsive Steering (Steepest Head Angle)

Shortened Fork + Low BB Height = All Mountian Bike (Climbs Well, DH Great)

Long Front Fork + High BB = Haven't tried this combination yet
Hey PBMatrix,

Preferred option:

Shortened Fork + Low BB Height = All Mountian Bike (Climbs Well, DH Great).

I will move shock and try it.

Regarding E150 (RIP), got a brand new air cartidge fitted last Saturday. Went for a ride Sunday, 4 hours with some good downhill to tested it out, and bike felt great. Last night (Thursday - Australia time), I went to check the bike and when taking it out from climbing mode, fork was only coming back half way through. Checked air and pressure went from 100 psi to 40 psi. Pumped again to 100 psi, tried fork again and seals poped out!!!!!!! LBS just called and getting full new internals for fork. Good thing they are giving me a courtesy bike for the weekend :thumbsup: . Great customer services from these guys.
 
#13 ·
DSG said:
I might try the high BB setting this weekend. Is it simply a case of unbolting it and moving it? You don't have to release all the air pressure before moving it do you?
No, if the shock was shorter, you would have to lift the rear wheel to get it to engage.

Note: Use a high quality 11mm box ended wrench or socket on that butter soft nut on the bottom.
 
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