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  1. #1
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    Enduro Comp 2004 rear shox upgrade

    HI,
    I have Enduro comp 2004, Fox Float RL in the rear and Fox Vanilla RLC 125 in the front.
    My second new bikes is the Rocky Mountain ETSX 70 2007.

    Riding both bikes I find the Enduro much better bikes for my needs, AM, but climbing is a bit difficult if I don't lock the Rear shock, the bike has much bobbing.
    On the other hand, the RM is a great bike for climbing, wow, really great bike but my body and riding positioning fits much more to the Enduro.

    Thanks to the RM I found out that the Fox RP23 is a great shock, the ProPedal is working great.

    I would like to revive my Enduro since, as I already daid, its a great bike, I am thinking of replacing the Fox Float to Fox RP23 has anyone did it, does it makes the change, the bobbing?

    What type of RP23 do I need? size etc?

    more recommendations please.

    Thanks
    Eli.

  2. #2
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    Eli,

    that generation of enduro uses a proprietary shock dimension. does your enduro not have propedal? i recall the itch switch shock. not a big fan of that one, that's what's on my 03 enduro - not the happiest guy about it. but the options are limited.

    your specialized dealer should be able to source you the 05 version's shock, which was a float rl with propedal, iirc. it'll cost you 300 - 400 or so though, might be a bitter pill to swallow.

    as for other shocks out there. i think the closest you'll find is going to be 7.5 E2E with a 2.0 stroke. the geometry changes are smaller than anything else i've found. you'r bb will be a little lower and head angle a little slacker. you'll also compress a very small amount further. i'm guessing changes would be about a degree or less in the head angle and the bb positions in resting and fully compressed situations would be less than 1/4" but i'm not sure, i haven't done any measurements on it yet, just my speculations based on experimenting with other specialized frames and shocks in the past. though, i do have a shock of those dimensions laying around...

    good luck either way, and let us know the results if you do anything.

  3. #3
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    Hi Bighitdon,

    Thanks for your reply, I'll consult my dealer.
    the bike has the ITCH switch, I use it but it doesn't really solve the bobbing, I think that a real ProPedal Shock will do the work.
    Will let you know if I'll start this advanture of upgrading the Specialized, its all about money. ;-)

  4. #4
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    I find myself in a similar situation. I have the Stumpy 07 with brain that locks out my shock on climbs, making the longer climbs more doable. However on the downhill, I take a lot more abuse than on my 03 Enduro.

    So I've been looking at upgrading the rear shock on my 03 Enduro as well. I looked at PUSH and they will install the Propedal feature on non-propedal shocks. Might be worth a shot. I'm getting ready to send my ITCH Fox shock to them and see how it works out.
    Last edited by leone35130; 06-01-2008 at 08:02 PM.

  5. #5
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    i would be interested in hearing how that works out with having the shock pushed.

    i did some monkeying around last night, and i'm pretty sure that a 7.5 x 2.0 will fit, but my swinger 4 way with piggyback is in danger of hitting the resevior as the suspension compresses. any rp series should do the trick. the differences are incredibly negligable as far as fitting the frame goes, just need some final numbers on the geometry changes, but i'd need to reassemble the entire bike and that's not happening anytime soon.

  6. #6
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    I'm probably buying a Vanilla R 7.875 x 2 for my 2003 Enduro. I'll post my results.

  7. #7
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    I used to run Vanilla R 7.875 x 2.25 on Enduro 03.

    This shock lifts the rear and a bit, and apparently shifts the geo out of the efficient zone. It climbs considerably worse than on air shock, but on descents the 5.8" of travel (because of the longer stroke) do wonders. This thing just floats..... wonderful.

    The fun ended when I discovered that I actually like climbing more. I ended up sending the original shock (which was ruined then) to PUSH. PUSH did their wonder, and what I got is:
    - ITch switch working, 4"/5.1" travel.
    - On the short travel position, the bike feels just a tad plush, but generally stiff. It climbs well, in fact it climbs really well. It also descends well.
    - On the long travel position the shock indeed gets "linear" character - it does bob a little (significantly less compared to what the original shock used to do), but when pointed downhill it still floats over obstacles.

    It's still possible to climb on the "long" travel position, or to descend on the "short" travel position, the differences are subtle. Well, not so subtle when you sprint uphill out of saddle - in this case there is difference between the "short" and the "long" shock behaviour.

    Having said that, I do say that sending the shock to PUSH changed the character of the bike. Now I got a new bike, with Float RP23 shock. I would say that from the platform effectiveness, the tune that PUSH gave me is somewhere between 2 and 3 positions on the new shock. However, the real difference is in the PUSHed rebound - the old shock is so much buttery on the descends...

    So:
    If you want to improve your enduro ride to a very next level, send the shock to PUSH. Tell them exactly what you want to achive, apparently they can custom tune the valving for your intended application. It costed me 150 dollars not including shipping, and I doubt I can find better shock for the enduro (given the non-standard size).

    Otherwise, if you want to use the standard shock on 03 enduro, you have to choose. If you want to rail downhill, go for the 7.875/2.25 shock, it will work great. If you want to accelerate well, go for 7.5/2.0 shock and shorter fork.

    In general, the enduro geometry is quite sensitive to shock length. If the geometry is taken away from the sweet spot, it just wont pedal great, at least without heavy platform damping. 7.5-7.65 seems to work, 7.875 is too long...

    SHAMELESS PLUG: or you can buy my s-works enduro with PUSHed shock and RS Revelation 85-130 fork..../SHAMELESS PLUG

  8. #8
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    Quote:"Having said that, I do say that sending the shock to PUSH changed the character of the bike. Now I got a new bike, with Float RP23 shock. I would say that from the platform effectiveness, the tune that PUSH gave me is somewhere between 2 and 3 positions on the new shock. However, the real difference is in the PUSHed rebound - the old shock is so much buttery on the descends... "


    And what about small bumps? Is sensitive?
    JC

  9. #9
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    Let me start with mentioning that I asked PUSH specifically to optimize the ride for good climbing and acceleration. They've stated that it would be possible to put less platform damping, i.e. to make the shock plusher. I opted for tuning it for some bite.

    Having said that, when in "short" position it is not very compliant, but still "erases" the very small stuff (less than 1/2 inch). Anything more than that, e.g. roots you will feel, unless you're riding pretty fast. In this case, the shock will work smoother, like having the rebound "opening" with the speed.

    When in "long" position, you will still feel roots, but you will feel them less. It is like "turning the platform off", although some platform damping still exists.

    I would say that Enduro with PUSHed shock is less compliant with the small stuff than Vanilla R, but more compliant than stock Float with ITch switch in short position. The difference between PUSHed and non PUSHed shocks come to realisation in small-medium stuff - this is where the PUSHed shock feels firm.

    I was going to say that this shock is also more compliant than Float RP23 on different frame, but that would be comparing apples and oranges.

    The bottom line: I was extremely satisfied with the upgrade. When I will have enough upgrade money (or when I will have to service my new shock/fork, whichever comes first), i will send it to PUSH. They have one loyal customer more now.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhynolite
    Let me start with mentioning that I asked PUSH specifically to optimize the ride for good climbing and acceleration. They've stated that it would be possible to put less platform damping, i.e. to make the shock plusher. I opted for tuning it for some bite.

    Having said that, when in "short" position it is not very compliant, but still "erases" the very small stuff (less than 1/2 inch). Anything more than that, e.g. roots you will feel, unless you're riding pretty fast. In this case, the shock will work smoother, like having the rebound "opening" with the speed.

    When in "long" position, you will still feel roots, but you will feel them less. It is like "turning the platform off", although some platform damping still exists.

    I would say that Enduro with PUSHed shock is less compliant with the small stuff than Vanilla R, but more compliant than stock Float with ITch switch in short position. The difference between PUSHed and non PUSHed shocks come to realisation in small-medium stuff - this is where the PUSHed shock feels firm.

    I was going to say that this shock is also more compliant than Float RP23 on different frame, but that would be comparing apples and oranges.

    The bottom line: I was extremely satisfied with the upgrade. When I will have enough upgrade money (or when I will have to service my new shock/fork, whichever comes first), i will send it to PUSH. They have one loyal customer more now.
    And if money is no object, is better to push or buy a new RP23?

  11. #11
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    I would suggest sending the original shock to PUSH because of the peculiar and non-standart size of the Enduro shock. There's no new RP23 that will fit the frame without changing the geometry (and handling, and bobbing) noticeably.

    If the money is not a problem, you can have PUSH replace the worn parts on your shock during re-valving, so generally you get a new shock which fits you and bike.

    Again, this is IMHO, YMMV.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhynolite
    I would suggest sending the original shock to PUSH because of the peculiar and non-standart size of the Enduro shock. There's no new RP23 that will fit the frame without changing the geometry (and handling, and bobbing) noticeably.

    If the money is not a problem, you can have PUSH replace the worn parts on your shock during re-valving, so generally you get a new shock which fits you and bike.

    Again, this is IMHO, YMMV.
    Thank you very much rhynolite!!!!!!

  13. #13
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    I put a BETD link, a fox vanilla R coil shock and a Nixon fork on mt 2004 Enduro, and I love it. This gave me 6" travel. I like the plush ride. I have to stay seated for efficient climbing, but the descending is great. I think the size is a 7.5 x 2. I also changed the seat to a distressed leather Brooks B17. The bars to a carbon Easton monkey light and a Easton vice stem. The tires to Panaracer Fire 2.4. I love this set up. Any questions email me.

  14. #14
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    i'm building mine up with a 36 talas, but have the nixon laying around too. i like what that does to this bike for sure.

    i'd also like to call shenanigans on rhynolite and his "increased stroke" statement and any 5.8" travel drivel he's spouting. stay away from that bike. the stock shock had the same stroke, you didn't get more travel, you just raised the bb and steepened the head angle.

    but whatever, that's what the internet is for, right?

  15. #15
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    I have been working on this for a while. This is what worked for me. B4 you sent in your fork to push. Try this add 90 percent of your wieght to the shock. That what I finally gave me the climbing I was looking for. When I climb I turn the rebond knob all the way plus+. Then when I am going down hill I turn the rebond knob 4 clicks to the minuse side-. I tried this set up at a resort. It worked really well. Just try it you mitr save yourself some cash. If not get it pushed. goodluck Ben

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