Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Chain Skip FSR

  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,326

    Chain Skip FSR

    So I got my new stumpy fsr expert w/brain. When I got it I replaced the rear cassette before even getting it out the door with the sram 990 34 tooth variety. Well on my first ride it skipped. Second ride same deal. Brought it back they ran through it said everything looked fine. Went out and rode it tonight, same deal. Does it in mainly in the front middle chainringt while in the middle of the rear. The teeth look fine on my front chainring and no stiff links on the stock sram chain.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1,150
    Mine does the same thing when I throw a fresh chain on. Did it with stock components and does it with a totally replaced drive train. It usually occurs when the rear suspension is active on climbs. Usually takes 3-4 good rides with extended climbs for it to go away. I figure it has to be the chain stretching out.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: nachomc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    6,523
    Is your LBS checking the adjustments under load? Your drivetrain will perform much differently under load than it will on the stand..
    :wq

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Student Driver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,245
    First, take a look and see if your cables are a bit loose already. They might have been misadjusted and have a touch too much slack and the chain is touching the next larger cog. Even if the cables are fine, you could be twisting the rear slightly (stock wheels?) and making the chain rub against the ramp and thus giving you the skipping gear. Normally you don't develop this until the second or third ride and then you have to tighten the cables as the cables stretch and housings compress.

    I had this issue with my last bike and it was the rear of the frame twisting slightly under high load causing the chain to rub the ramps. If I dropped to a lower gear, it would go away. If I was under less load in the same gear, it would go away (such as hitting the peak).

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,326
    So what did you end up doing student driver? As far as checking it under load, they checked the rear cog and the chain line. My last fsr never did this. The wheels are stock by the way. When I took it in the first time for this, I was also dropping my chain in the front for no specific reason. My front der. cable had developed some normal stretch. Could this simply be the stretch of my rear cable? Pretty annoying when it is new.....

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Student Driver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,245
    Is it possible to try a different rear wheel? You could use the same cassette, but just to see if there's any difference.

    As for me, I went to an XT cassette and chain (was 8 speed when the problem happened, and was finally going to 9 speed). The bike was stolen a couple of weeks later and I replaced it with an FSR. During the time I had it, it was greatly reduced but I didn't have much chance to test it.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,326
    So I brought it into my shop (the rock) and they looked it over. Said the housings have shrunk aka cable stretch and adjusted the rear two clicks and all was cool for my 3 hour sunday ride. Well tonight my second ride since having it fixed it was back. Same gear middle ring front and third from top in the rear cassette. So I adjusted another quarter turn on adjuster and it seemed okay. Is this the correct protocol?

  8. #8
    Explore More
    Reputation: DesertDog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    391
    You may want to check the RD cable routing under the BB shell. If it's too short, it will cause strange shifting problems. Deflate the rear shock, fully compress it and see if there is still a little slack in the cable under the BB. If not, pull some down from the shifter and make adjustments for the loop the RD and then under the BB. You may want to duct tape it in place afterwards to prevent slippage later. I never could get the RD cable to stay put after adjustments and I'd start having RD shifting problems on the first ride after making corrections.

    But, after fighting the problem for a while on my 06 Stumpy last year, I decided to try using an Avid Rollamajig. Haven't had a problem at all with the rear shifting since installing the device. Pretty simple $5 - $10 solution. Even went and put one on my hardtail/road trainer just because.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,326
    Have plenty of slack at least housing under the bb. It almost looks like to much. I am hoping this is just the shrinking of the housing and that my sram 990 isn't defective. I know my chain is fine with no stiff links. It only does this in the middle ring as well. I can knock on wook granny gear climb all day. And it also doesn't do this everytime. I wonder how many quarter turns I can make though on that adjustment.

  10. #10
    fnar fnar brrraaaaap
    Reputation: ilostmypassword's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    2,171
    Check high and low adj screws

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    102
    anybody have any information about how to adjust this stuff? i just picked up a stumpy comp and i am also having chain skip issues.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,326
    Well I turned the adjuster on the shifter a quarter click and it seemed better. Let me know what you do and how it works out for you ghosthound.

  13. #13
    sadly, like the element
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    401
    For general information on how to adjust derailers, etc -> http://www.parktool.com/repair/

    But they don't have a section devoted to chain skip I'm afraid. Might want to as others have mentioned check the loop of cable under the bottom bracket with the shock compressed. See if the movement of the suspension is pulling on the cable and causing ghost shifts because the housing isn't long enough.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    102
    ahh, sweet success... I also tried turning the adjuster on the shifter and it works beautifully now. thanks everyone!! no i can fully enjoy the bike woohoo!!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •