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  1. #1
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    Brake vibration resonance. has anyone got long term fix?

    Wanted to start a new thread on this.

    and I want to clearify that this is NOT your regular everyday squeek or turkey noise that most all brakes make a little of. This is a wicked vibration from the rear brake that resonates throughout the entire bike up to the handlebars. sounds like a fog horn. I have had this issue on my 2010 Stumpjumper FSR comp26" for the last two years. I have tried EVERYTHING including ditching the Avid brakes and installing a set of Formulas. different pads, size rotors, different type rotors (even tried the solid rotor)

    I am convinced that this is an issue with the frame. and it seems to happen after the pads have fully seated in. I have tried different things over and over and the noise/vibration will go away. but eventually comes back after the pads bed in. I was wondering if anyone has had the same issue ...again, this vibration resonance not just squeek. and if anyone has had a long term fix.

  2. #2
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    Check the pad wear. Is it uneven or otherwise odd? If it is then it could be an alignment issue.

    The other thing I would check is your rear wheel. Are the bearing OK, and it is running true? When under braking pressure, the wheel could be causing the rotor to run out of true.

  3. #3
    DynoDon
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    It seems the only thing you haven't considered is contamination, I'd reccomend Finish Line Ceramic Wax, don't laugh, this is the least contaminating lube system I've found, it doesn't take much, most of it dries up leaving your chain lubed with ceramic lube, its fairly new, last way longer then wax, I'm not sure why they call it wax, it sure is clean, very little build up, nothing like other waxes. Make sure to keep it off your rotors. Good Luck...
    Four wheels transport the body,

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiwi View Post
    Check the pad wear. Is it uneven or otherwise odd? If it is then it could be an alignment issue.

    The other thing I would check is your rear wheel. Are the bearing OK, and it is running true? When under braking pressure, the wheel could be causing the rotor to run out of true.
    I know you guys are trying to help, but please understand. I have probably changed the pads 10 times on this bike (6-8 avids and then switched to Formulas) I have put about 2000 miles on this bike. I have two completely different wheelsets. I have lost count how many times I have aligned the caliper (50?) I have switched the entire brake system from avid to formula and the exact same vibration comes back no matter what I do. I know other people have been through something similar with specialized and I hope you will chime in.

  5. #5
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    for example: I went to my LBS (thanks guys here in temecula for trying!)

    and we tried a diffent size brand new rotor. the noise/vibration only changed slightly in pitch. we tried diffent pdas. alignment. cleaning. everything. we wrapped the chainstays with foam and weights.

    The only thing that has helped is wrapping the upper seats stay to the lower chain stay with an inner tube so that the two are pulling against each other. this seems to be a 50% fix but is extremely ugly. I have also changed all the suspension piviot bearings (lower near the crank was siezed after racing in the rain and mud) I even filled the frame stays with expanding foam. I don't think there is anything I hav not tried, and so I already have gave up to tell the tuth. I am already shopping for another bike. I just would like to fix this one someday, somehow.

  6. #6
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    You need to file the edges of the brake pad lining, clean and lube the backing plate and piston, go out an ride.

  7. #7
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    Dude, I know your pain, however, I didn't change 20 sets of pads and brake sets. I had this exact problem on my 2006 Demo 8 with Saint brakes and your right about the pads bedding in and then it happens- honking, shuttering vibration through the entire bike. Then I sold the Demo 8 for the 2007 Demo 7 and guess what, the vibration jumped from the old bike to the new one! I've had a few sets of pads but nothing worked. So I live with it. I almost wish that the calipers had a vibration damper like a tennis racquet.
    A few things that helped: SPARINGLY GREASE the contact points of all metals in the braking system. This includes between hub and rotor, rotor and bolt heads, caliper bolts and frame, the back of the brake pad and the piston. So obviously you will néed thicker grease so it stays put and helps with vibration dampening. This tip was passed to me by the best mechanic I know and it helped the most ( the problem was much quieter). I know it sounds crazy to get grease anywhere near your pads and rotors, be careful not to contaminate things if you put to much the heat will cause the grease to run out cnd contaminate the pads. Hope this helps...
    Oh here's something I haven't tried- o rings from the hardware store, try one under the caliper bolt head and one between the frame and caliper, not to thick. The idea is to help the stop the resonance from traveling up the frame.
    I'm GNARcissistic

  8. #8
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    I didn't see any mention of cleaning the build up from around the pistons which can cause them to not move freely or in EXACT unison. This is what causes that horrifying back brake resonance for me with Magura Marta SL brakes. But once I do the proceedure and free up the pistons, the issue is resolved or at least minimized until build up once again causes the pistons to stick/freeze up.

    I also find that a little hard braking on the rear to heat up the rotor seems to stop the resonance if/when it starts up.

    There could also be a little air in the system or weak/worn out fluid.

    It was also recommended by a Magura rep to have the brake tab(s) machined to provide a perfectly flat contact point where the caliper bolts on.

    There an article in the newest MBA magazine about doing this proceedure on your calipers.

  9. #9
    DynoDon
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    If your anywhere Michigan bring the bike into our shop, our head mech has been there since he was 13 yrs of, he's near 50 now, we are a Specialized dealer, if he can't figure it out it can't be figured out, Town N Country in Livonia, Mi near Detroit, we are far from a high tech shop, more old school, a real bike shop, we don't sharpen Hockey skates, we don't sell anything other then bicycle stuff, we fix ****, if we can't it can't be fixed. I will be warranteed, Otto is there on Mon, Tues, and Wensday, we ride bikes, we have the passion, let a pro look at it, or keep Paying peanuts and getting monkeys.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambassadorhawg View Post
    I didn't see any mention of cleaning the build up from around the pistons which can cause them to not move freely or in EXACT unison. This is what causes that horrifying back brake resonance for me with Magura Marta SL brakes. But once I do the proceedure and free up the pistons, the issue is resolved or at least minimized until build up once again causes the pistons to stick/freeze up.

    I also find that a little hard braking on the rear to heat up the rotor seems to stop the resonance if/when it starts up.

    There could also be a little air in the system or weak/worn out fluid.

    It was also recommended by a Magura rep to have the brake tab(s) machined to provide a perfectly flat contact point where the caliper bolts on.

    There an article in the newest MBA magazine about doing this proceedure on your calipers.
    I've got a 2010 Stumpy with Avid's and started having the same problem after I changed out the stock pads on the rear. I bought metallic pads thinking that's what was originally in there but they turned out to be organic. After the pads bed in, I started having a crazy vibration. Cleaned the pistons as indicated above and the problem mostly went away. It's kind of a PITA, but well worth the effort.

  11. #11
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    I have exact problem on my Enduro '11 with Shimano SLX 2012 brakes.

    I didn't have any problem while I have 160 rotor at the rear (smrt76) and after some time I changed 160 rotor for brand new 180 (smrt76) rotor.
    After first ride everything was great and on the second ride at the middle of the trail the whole bike was start to vibrate.

    After that every ride is the same soon i hit rear brake. I tried everything but still no improvement.

    Last option to try is to change back to 160 rotor to see if it's gonna happend again and i will try with Hope SAW rotor.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarlS View Post
    I know you guys are trying to help, but please understand. I have probably changed the pads 10 times on this bike (6-8 avids and then switched to Formulas) I have put about 2000 miles on this bike. I have two completely different wheelsets. I have lost count how many times I have aligned the caliper (50?) I have switched the entire brake system from avid to formula and the exact same vibration comes back no matter what I do. I know other people have been through something similar with specialized and I hope you will chime in.
    I hear you, but you're not hearing me. I said have you checked the wear pattern on the pads? If one is wearing more than the other, you have a piston issue - sticking or otherwise not working in tandem, or an alignment issue - the caliper not straight (this could possibly be misaligned mounting holes) - or the wheel mounting moving under load.

    Brake vibrations are not rocket science. The brake rotor is vibrating in the caliper and those vibrations are resonating through the frame. Those issues are classically alignment issues, uneven piston activation, or deposits on the rotors.

    Usual rules apply. To paraphrase Sherlock Holmes "Eliminate all other factors, and the one which remains must be the truth."

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by zgmmax View Post
    . . . at the middle of the trail the whole bike was start to vibrate.
    I haven't tried this but this may work if someone is willing to try.

    The attached photo is a screen shot of anti-squeel products. I will try these on my Formula The One brakes for wet weather use.

    My 911 has a small vibration damper fitted between the pad and piston.

    The point is, WE ARE NOT ALONE!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Brake vibration resonance.  has anyone got long term fix?-brake-anti-squeal.jpg  

    Brake vibration resonance.  has anyone got long term fix?-brake-vibration-damper.jpg  

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  14. #14
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    You are effectively matching the resonate frequency of vibration of your frame to something on the disc rotor. The rotor needs something irregular in its design to give a pulse to the frame. The 'something' could be number of holes on the rotor contact area or the number of arms that connect the rotor to the hub or even the number of bolts connecting the rotor to the hub. It might be made worse by brake set up.
    A fix is not easy but I would look to change the rotor style dramatically, magura rotor maybe? You could change the stiffness of the rear end by adding a bolt through axle. Have you tried asking specialized?
    When I had this on a enduro 2005 it turned up when I changed to a bolt through axle....

  15. #15
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    Try a solid sweep rear rotor (Avid 3GSS in my case). It worked on my 2011 Stumpjumper 29er Comp. It killed the interplay between the rotor and stays vibration resonance by getting outside of the frequency.

  16. #16
    Mountain Man Dan
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Barrett View Post
    Try a solid sweep rear rotor (Avid 3GSS in my case). It worked on my 2011 Stumpjumper 29er Comp. It killed the interplay between the rotor and stays vibration resonance by getting outside of the frequency.
    He already tried that..........

    I have tried EVERYTHING including ditching the Avid brakes and installing a set of Formulas. different pads, size rotors, different type rotors (even tried the solid rotor)
    The bike is nothing more then circles turning circles, It's the human motor that makes it elegant.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProjectDan35 View Post
    He already tried that..........

    OK....so it is time for your LBS to really get down and nasty with Specialized.....with clear documentation of EVERYTHING that you have tried. Your bike is essentially un-rideable.....in your opinion.

    There is probably nothing else that anyone here can do to help.

  18. #18
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    My Avids did that on my 2011 Epic 29er, dumped them for Formula R1s and never looked back. Since you said your Formulas do the same thing, I'm beginning to think it's something YOU are putting on them or doing do the brakes. Maybe some form of wash or liquid contamination, or perhaps something in some streams near you that you are riding through?

  19. #19
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    Cleaning rotors with Isopropyl alcohol can often quiet things down.........I've found.

  20. #20
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    FWIW

    I have a '11 Rockhopper SL that used to drive me crazy with the loud rear brake noise that happened every time, everywhere, whenever the brake was operated

    So, being the bike almost new and the owner fed to death with the big time noise that does not fit well with the very silent mountain trails we have here, I took it to a nearby Specialized "Concept store", where the owner, a seasoned expert in the business for not less than 20 years, tried anything including, changing pads, filing the borders os the pads, filing a line in the middle of the pad, changing disk and maybe something else all to no avail.

    When I got the bike back, I started to debug (sorry I am in the software industry) the problem myself discovering that when the resonance was in progress, touching the left seatstay with a foot stopped the noise immediately. That confirmed that the problem was not really in the pad+disk duo but rather in the frame itself.

    What solved completely the problem?? Taping a 40gr lead weight (those used for heavy fishing) in the middle of the left seat stay, with the purpose of moving the frame resonance point away.

    I've put more than 2000km on the bike since then, with no sign of resonance anymore

    happy biking

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by sneeboo View Post
    FWIW

    I have a '11 Rockhopper SL that used to drive me crazy with the loud rear brake noise that happened every time, everywhere, whenever the brake was operated

    So, being the bike almost new and the owner fed to death with the big time noise that does not fit well with the very silent mountain trails we have here, I took it to a nearby Specialized "Concept store", where the owner, a seasoned expert in the business for not less than 20 years, tried anything including, changing pads, filing the borders os the pads, filing a line in the middle of the pad, changing disk and maybe something else all to no avail.

    When I got the bike back, I started to debug (sorry I am in the software industry) the problem myself discovering that when the resonance was in progress, touching the left seatstay with a foot stopped the noise immediately. That confirmed that the problem was not really in the pad+disk duo but rather in the frame itself.

    What solved completely the problem?? Taping a 40gr lead weight (those used for heavy fishing) in the middle of the left seat stay, with the purpose of moving the frame resonance point away.

    I've put more than 2000km on the bike since then, with no sign of resonance anymore
    happy biking
    Interesting. I have the 2011 Rockhopper SL Expert 29 with Shimano brakes. Quiet as a mouse.

    On the other hand...my 2011 Stumpjumper 29er Comp HT rears screeched like an owl from day one. Went through all of the Avid changes and finally cured the problem with a G3SS solid rotor.

  22. #22
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    I have a 2011 Hardrock with shimano hydraulic disc brakes and it's silent. Squealed once due to lube contamination from the hubs, but became silent when the rear brake rotor was cleaned with dishwashing soap, rinse with water, then isopropyl alcohol. Maybe the heavier, thicker frame is more resistant to brake resonance

  23. #23
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    Yeah, now after almost a year of pain, mine is quiet as a mouse too and it is a *real* delight enjoying the power of disk brakes without a hiss

    I also believe that much of the problem on the rockhopper is due to the fact that the frame is relatively light and thin in some areas, helping this kind of problem together with the use of a low end factory brake system

    Like I said, in my case pad sanding, rounding, notching and even the disk sanding simply had no effect, go figure a simple isopropyl alcool cleaning...

  24. #24
    CS2
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    Quote Originally Posted by sneeboo View Post
    FWIW

    I have a '11 Rockhopper SL that used to drive me crazy with the loud rear brake noise that happened every time, everywhere, whenever the brake was operated

    So, being the bike almost new and the owner fed to death with the big time noise that does not fit well with the very silent mountain trails we have here, I took it to a nearby Specialized "Concept store", where the owner, a seasoned expert in the business for not less than 20 years, tried anything including, changing pads, filing the borders os the pads, filing a line in the middle of the pad, changing disk and maybe something else all to no avail.

    When I got the bike back, I started to debug (sorry I am in the software industry) the problem myself discovering that when the resonance was in progress, touching the left seatstay with a foot stopped the noise immediately. That confirmed that the problem was not really in the pad+disk duo but rather in the frame itself.

    What solved completely the problem?? Taping a 40gr lead weight (those used for heavy fishing) in the middle of the left seat stay, with the purpose of moving the frame resonance point away.

    I've put more than 2000km on the bike since then, with no sign of resonance anymore

    happy biking
    There is a post in the Brake Forum about putting the sinker on the caliper. I guess it's the same principal.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    There is a post in the Brake Forum about putting the sinker on the caliper. I guess it's the same principal.
    The rotors are causing a resonance that is of a frequency that the frame picks up on. Anything that changes the frequency will stop it....

  26. #26
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    Hi guys
    Had same noise changed rear pads and very little to no noise at all very happy. Tried everything in above post nothing helped this was my last shot before I buy a hole brake system.

    jensonusa.com/Brake-Pads/Serfas-Avid-Elixir-Disc-Brake-Pads

  27. #27
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    My fix (100%) for my Avid Elixir 7 SLs was to replace the rotors with Alligator Serration rotors from Pricepoint.com. I also used some brake quiet adhesive to "glue" the pads to the metal retaining spring. Absolutely fixed it. I was having terrible vibrations.
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    My bike is a 2011 Stumpjumper fsr comp and it has a terrible brake vibration too. The LBS replaced the front rotor with a larger Avid rotor, rear rotor and pads less then 20 miles ago. The vibration is back and sounds exactly the same prior to the work.

    The bike is washed using dish washing soap but do not clean the rotors with isoprolyn alcohol. I will try the alcohol and take the bike back to the LBS if this this does not work. Gut the feeling the LBS knows how to fix the issue, but is going through Avid to get it resolved by them under warrennty.
    2011 stumpjumper fsr comp 29er

  29. #29
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    robin..how much is your time worth? The rotors that fix this problem for me were ~$40 delivered. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet, spend a few bucks (yes...even though this should all be covered by Avid or Specy..life isn't' always fair) and move on.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

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  30. #30
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    Has anyone contacted Specialized about this? I have a 2011 Stumpjumper Comp 29er that was quiet as a mouse until my first set of pads wore out. I replaced them with organic pads and ever since then the rear break sounds like a fog horn when it starts to get warm and the vibration will cause me to stop on a longer downhill just because it's driving me nuts.

    I guess the real question at hand is this a brake issue or something with the frame. I've been tempted to throw down some cash on a new XT for the rear brake but after reading this thread I'm afraid that the problem might still persist. How many of you have changed to a different brake set and still have problems? Does anyone have these same issues on non-specialized bikes? Interestingly enough my front brake (elixir 5 on 203 mm rotor) is silent. I've only had problems with the rear.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by regrap View Post
    Has anyone contacted Specialized about this? I have a 2011 Stumpjumper Comp 29er that was quiet as a mouse until my first set of pads wore out. I replaced them with organic pads and ever since then the rear break sounds like a fog horn when it starts to get warm and the vibration will cause me to stop on a longer downhill just because it's driving me nuts.

    I guess the real question at hand is this a brake issue or something with the frame. I've been tempted to throw down some cash on a new XT for the rear brake but after reading this thread I'm afraid that the problem might still persist. How many of you have changed to a different brake set and still have problems? Does anyone have these same issues on non-specialized bikes? Interestingly enough my front brake (elixir 5 on 203 mm rotor) is silent. I've only had problems with the rear.
    Did you follow the Avid bed-in procedure?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Barrett View Post
    Did you follow the Avid bed-in procedure?
    Also note that there is an incompatibility between the Avid magnesium calipers and scintered metallic pads. I discovered this in the Avid technical docs.

  33. #33
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    I followed the prescribed bed in procedure by Avid. As for the pads my LBS recommended organic pads which are currently on the bike. I would hope they know what pads to recomend since they sale and service these types of brakes.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by regrap View Post
    I followed the prescribed bed in procedure by Avid. As for the pads my LBS recommended organic pads which are currently on the bike. I would hope they know what pads to recomend since they sale and service these types of brakes.
    Sorry my bad - the exclusion was only for the 2010-2011 Avid XX magnesium callipers. But, with due respect to your LBS I doubt that they are aware of the issue.

    It is covered in a footnote in the Avid Spare Parts catalogue for the 1st generation of XX and XXWC Elixir brakes in very fine print. To wit "*Do NOT use scintered metal brake pads with 2010-2011 XX and XX World Cup MAGNESIUM brake caliper!"

    Avid has recalled the XXWC brakes, and re-designed them completely for 2012. The exclusion doe not apply for the 2012 model.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by regrap View Post
    Has anyone contacted Specialized about this? I have a 2011 Stumpjumper Comp 29er that was quiet as a mouse until my first set of pads wore out. I replaced them with organic pads and ever since then the rear break sounds like a fog horn when it starts to get warm and the vibration will cause me to stop on a longer downhill just because it's driving me nuts.

    I guess the real question at hand is this a brake issue or something with the frame. I've been tempted to throw down some cash on a new XT for the rear brake but after reading this thread I'm afraid that the problem might still persist. How many of you have changed to a different brake set and still have problems? Does anyone have these same issues on non-specialized bikes? Interestingly enough my front brake (elixir 5 on 203 mm rotor) is silent. I've only had problems with the rear.
    Read my post above...Alligator rotors 100% shut my Avid brakes up on my Stumpy.
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  36. #36
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    Where did you buy the adapter for the smaller rotor? My stumpy currently has the 185mm rotor on the back whereas the alligator is 180mm. It sounds like a good alternative and relatively cheap compared to other options. Did you buy new pads when you put the rotor on? I'm relatively new to all this and want to make sure I don't ruin the new rotor with old pads.

  37. #37
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    I didn't need any adapters; mine has a 160 r. and a 180 f. so they were a direct replacement. I did replace the pads at the same time with Avid organics and bedded them in following Avid's procedure. I used some brake anti-squeal "glue" also to adhere the pads to the retainer spring.
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  38. #38
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    I honnestly thought I was alone until I came across this!
    Let me ask you this. Does your bike do this vibration if your off the bike with the rear brake locked up when pushing or pulling it along a concrete surface?
    Mine does and the whole bike chatters along the concrete but none of my other bikes do they just drag along. This only gets worse when your riding and need the rear brake for something. I feel many people on here don't hear what your saying, talking about chain lube ect but trust me i hear you loud and clear i also feel your pain. What can this be? It Can't be brakes because mine will do it with the brake locked up and the bike dragging along pavement. Could it be the type of tire? My bike that has this issue is a ss 29er so there isn't much going on pretty simple stuff so I'm stuck thinking a tire pattern or a straight up frame issue. I've tightened everything and tried different tire pressures. I will try a new set of tires once I can justify spending that much for a bicycle tire. I can buy a new tire for my car for just a few bucks more lol.

  39. #39
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    My fix

    I had the same issue with a 2010 Enduro with Elixir CR's. First time around I tried several things at once including taking a file to the rotor to smooth the edges of the vent holes and adding a small amount of weight to the caliper, filing the leading edge of the brake pads, etc. Worked until I had to replace the pads.

    Replaced with sintered avid pads and new Avid rotor and the problem came back, maybe worse.

    I switched to Ashima SOS pads, sold by Origin8. Bed them in per Avids instructions. Took them on the trail and they were great, a little squeaky, but 90% better. During the first major downhill they squeaked a bit, then gave one final awful Hoooonnnnkkkkkk, and have been SILENT ever since.


    Link to the website, I bought them from amazon. I don't know if they give the best of both organic and metallic pads, but they work at least as well as the Avid metallics and are quiet.
    Products Description – ORIGIN-8

  40. #40
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    My HOOOOOOOONNNNNNKKKKKK!!!! came back.

    Originally solved by Kool Stop organics. Only change, took on & off rear wheel... we'll see what happens when I do that again.

    P

  41. #41
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    I just got back from a ride on my new setup. I was working with my LBS and they suggested a new rotor and new pads. I switched from the stock Avid G3 185mm on my back to a 160mm G2. I know it goes against everything that is preached, but I went from organic pads to metal scintered. I followed the Avid bed in procedures as best I could yesterday, and my ride today was relatively quiet. I had a little squeal from the brakes, but absolutely no vibrations or fog horn sounds on the downhill.

    Also, I guess I a rookie at this and my LBS said that the way that I was braking could have led to the problems that I was experiencing. I was just holding the brakes to keep a certain speed downhill, where they recommended allowing your bike to coast a bit and then come down hard on the brakes (front and back) to slow you down and then coast back up the speed. It sounds like this allows the brakes to stay much cooler and will extend the life of the pads hopefully alleviate any future problems.

    This was just my first ride on the new setup so I'm hoping that things continue to work the way they did today. If anything changes I'll update this post.

  42. #42
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    Guys, please read through the post. The fix is listed...Alligator Serration rotors and brake glue on the pad/spring contact. This fixes this problem for ~$40..period.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  43. #43
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    Take TiGeo's advice. Warble and vibration will be gone with the Alligator Serration rotors. Though, I went with EBC Gold pads instead of organic.
    Enjoy the ride!

  44. #44
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    Tech Tuesday - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake - PinkbikeHas anybody just rode it out and done nothing? I have a 2010 enduro comp with avid elixir R Sl 180 rear, 203 front. First two rides were a dream. Gradually got squeaky when it was wet or dusty. Then after 6 weeks the back brake became a living hell whenever i held it down without locking up. I started coasting faster and hitting the lever harder because the vibration was so bad it hurt my nuts. This was on a particularly steep twisty dusty switchback downhill. It seemed a little better at the end of the ride. I washed my bike with the garden hose but just rinsing, not blasting and spraying hard. I dried the entire bike with a red shop towel and it never happened again. Everything is still stock. I have 135 qr rear hub which i keep REALLY TIGHT. I've had both brakes bled at seperate times, and occasionially self aligned the calipers if the rotors drag at all. I read a tech tuesday on pinkbike that addresses brake squeal and it mentioned break pad material depositing on the rotor. I think that's what happened to my brakes on yhat one twisty downhill. I'll post a link if possible.
    Tech Tuesday - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake - Pinkbike
    Last edited by championp; 06-08-2012 at 12:08 AM. Reason: adding link to tech article

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCMTB View Post
    Take TiGeo's advice. Warble and vibration will be gone with the Alligator Serration rotors. Though, I went with EBC Gold pads instead of organic.
    The Alligator Serration Disc Brake Rotor has some issues:
    - They have less stopping power than the Avids
    - they are known to devour pads at a fast rate
    - they also overheat quicker than most

    If you are braking late as possible, or riding your brakes hard, the Alligator's are not a good solution. Search the forums, you'll read plenty of "tried them and went back". The rotors are cheap, and much lighter than standard rotors, if they worked as well as standard rotors, everyone would be rocking them.

    A common theme that is emerging is "less grab = less vibration"

    P

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    The Alligator Serration Disc Brake Rotor has some issues:
    - They have less stopping power than the Avids
    - they are known to devour pads at a fast rate
    - they also overheat quicker than most

    If you are braking late as possible, or riding your brakes hard, the Alligator's are not a good solution. Search the forums, you'll read plenty of "tried them and went back". The rotors are cheap, and much lighter than standard rotors, if they worked as well as standard rotors, everyone would be rocking them.

    A common theme that is emerging is "less grab = less vibration"

    P
    I noticed they seem to have less stopping power, but I found the Avid's to be too grabby slowing me down more than I want when cornering. So I'm thinking this setup will work well for my riding style. Only time will tell...
    Enjoy the ride!

  47. #47
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    This is so weird, I have the same thing on my new Stumpjumper hardtail. I've never heard such as noise. It's worse when braking pretty hard down real technical stuff. I was kind of hoping it would just go away (my bike is brand new, I've only been on 3 real rides so far), but doesn't sound like it.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by sneeboo View Post
    FWIW

    What solved completely the problem?? Taping a 40gr lead weight (those used for heavy fishing) in the middle of the left seat stay, with the purpose of moving the frame resonance point away.

    I've put more than 2000km on the bike since then, with no sign of resonance anymore

    happy biking
    I just want to report that, after another couple of months of continuous and rough use in any condition, still no sign of noise whatsoever with the above fix. My stumpy has become a joy to ride and I spent peanuts.

  49. #49
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    Pls repost the photo of the fix
    2011 stumpjumper fsr comp 29er

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by championp View Post
    Tech Tuesday - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake - PinkbikeHas anybody just rode it out and done nothing? I have a 2010 enduro comp with avid elixir R Sl 180 rear, 203 front. First two rides were a dream. Gradually got squeaky when it was wet or dusty. Then after 6 weeks the back brake became a living hell whenever i held it down without locking up. I started coasting faster and hitting the lever harder because the vibration was so bad it hurt my nuts. This was on a particularly steep twisty dusty switchback downhill. It seemed a little better at the end of the ride. I washed my bike with the garden hose but just rinsing, not blasting and spraying hard. I dried the entire bike with a red shop towel and it never happened again. Everything is still stock. I have 135 qr rear hub which i keep REALLY TIGHT. I've had both brakes bled at seperate times, and occasionially self aligned the calipers if the rotors drag at all. I read a tech tuesday on pinkbike that addresses brake squeal and it mentioned break pad material depositing on the rotor. I think that's what happened to my brakes on yhat one twisty downhill. I'll post a link if possible.
    Tech Tuesday - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake - Pinkbike
    I might give this a try. My bike ('11 Enduro Expert, CR sl brakes) was perfectly quiet the first few months I rode it -- no crazy long downhill runs or anything, but just fine on the 800' elevation laps I was doing. A long, hot, dusty and dry run down the Whole Enchilada (very dry conditions for mid-March) had my rear brakes acting a little funny by the end, but to be expected in light of how long and rough that trail can be. The rears were a little noisier the next ride out. Then, I took the bike to the resort for the first time on Friday. By the end of the second run, the vibration was sooo bad, I hardly wanted to hold on to the bars anymore. It would come and go (usually start up, then I'd let go of the rear, then grab it again and sometimes it would stop, sometimes vibrate again). Not a lot of turkey gobble or shrieking, but just a strong vibration and associated noise. Did this the rest of the day.

    Then, a quick early Sat am ride, just a 1000' climb and descent, and my rear brake was howing from the first minute of the downhill, and howled all the way down. Not so much vibration this time.

    Front has been nice and quiet throughout all of this, aside from a couple shrieks at the end of a long dh run (which I expect and can live with -- the rear vibration is another thing, though -- not acceptable!).
    '11 Specialized Enduro Expert for the trails
    '13 Felt Z4 for the road

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