Hello all. I recently picked up a Specialized StumpJumper FSR Elite ('07 model) that is equipped with Juicy Seven hydraulic brake handles and calipers. My rear brake seems to be rubbing constantly and resonates at a high frequency (whistles). I stopped in at the shop where I bought it and they made a quick adjustment (tightened down the disc as well as the mounting screws for the rear caliper), but it is still resonating. How do I adjust the rear brake caliper to perhaps give it a little more clearance and stops rubbing/resonating?
Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Perhaps your rotor is warped, have the bike shop true it.
Or you need to break in the brakes with a few more fast down hill rides to wear off the high points of the pads.
as for the quick adj at the shop - did they just tighten the bolts or maybe moved a bit the caliper and then tightened? with my brakes I have to do the second from time to time.
SJ FSR Expert 08
Tarmac Expert 09
i've eyeballed the rotor and it does not look warped. it may be slightly out of true though, so i'd have to have the bike shop check it out beyond that. but you may be right about the "break in" period. the bike has less than 15 hours on it and none of it is heavy downhill style.
the bike shop simply tightened the bolts where the rotor attaches to the hub as well as loosened the mounting bolts for the caliper. after they were loose, the tech clamped down on the rear brake handle and then tightened them back up. he said since they were dual action hydraulic, they were self-centering and holding the brake handle while tightening automatically centered the disc between the calipers. it's been making the same noise before and after that adjustment.
i guess right now my only fix is to ride it more and see if i can wear off the high points on the pads. but i may take it in to the shop if the resonation keeps happening. it's a loud high frequency resonation. and very noticable.
any other advice out there? thank you very much for your replies.
every body uses brakes very differently , ------i was not able to get along with the jucy METALIC pads ------i could overheat and fade them out really quick ------and lord are they noisy ,and would honk and vibrate all to hell --------the organic pads may be better for you, ----they worked about twice as long for me , but i would kill them also very shortly ------- i would re- sand the rotors , glass bead the pads , ----install them , adjust them up nicley and true the rotors , ------and they would work maybe two rides , and they needed to be all set up again , ------
i went to the Koolstop pads on the aluminum backing plate, ---
and i can set them all up and get 6-8 weeks out of them before i have to clean , re-sand and set them all up again .
i run the kool stop in the rear and i run one koolstop and one organic in the ft , ----
the koolstop also stops much better and has better feel !!
it will just take you awhile to find the set up that works for you , -----its just something you gotta do for your self -----a bike shop will not be able to do it for you
Calm Like a Bomb
u may wish to center your rotor....to do so:
turn the wheel and see which side the rotor hits the pad...then loosen your cps bolts, put a business card between the pad and the rotor on the side it rubbing, squeeze the brake lever, with the brake lever squeezed tighten the cps bolts...let go of the lever and spin the wheel to see if it's still rubbing and repeat if necessary
also, make sure u have the g2 clean sweep rotors as the other ones make terrible noises
also, make sure all your bearing/pivots are tight so there's no flex in the rear triangle
also, make sure your quick release is on tight and that it's properly in the drop outs
also, make sure the pistons are fully pushed in
2015 Carbon Troy
2016 Farley 5