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Best way to remove the front derailuer and shifter and convert 1x9

4K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  SVTCobra03 
#1 ·
2009 Epic S-works. Would love to keep my 11-32 or 11-34 in rear and just drop my 3 chainrings in front and just use the middle. Do I need a bashgaurd, do I need a chain tensioner, do I need a chain guide, do I need a new chainring from the stock one? Thanks for any info...
 
#2 ·
My best bet would be to buy 2x10 and get rid of the "middle" ring. The ratios are almost perfect for 1x10. I never use my larger ring anymore. The trail front 26 driving the 11-36 has all the ratios I need...

But that Sram 1x11 looks even better, especially for 2-9er.
 
#3 ·
Couple ways to achieve you're desired results, here's 3 ways to do it:

Free way: Remove front shifter, front shifter housing, remove big and small chainrings, shorten chain, adjust lower limit on the front derailleur so it's aligned with the middle ring. Might not work great, but it should work.

Cheap: Remove front shifter, front shifter housing, remove all chain rings and add single speed front chain ring of your choice in the middle ring spot, shorten chain, adjust lower limit on the front derailleur so it's aligned with the middle ring.

Recommend: Remove front shifter, front shifter housing, remove front derailleur, remove all chain rings and add single speed front chain ring of your choice(I like the e13 guiderings, they offer odd sizes not just even if you know exactly what you want) in the middle ring spot, shorten chain, get a 1 speed front "xc" chain guide like the MRP 1.x, e13 XCX, I think paul makes one also. e13 XCX gets my vote but it's also the most expensive depending on which configuration you go with.

With all these setups you don't have any sort of bashguard or extra protection, I dunno if you smash your big ring a lot (keep in mind you will have a lot more clearance if you run a 32T front chainring as well, so if you don't smash your big ring alot I wouldn't worry about it). I run a full chainguide with a bashguard on my stumpy evo, but I've put some nice sized dents/scrapes in the bashguard that could have taken out my chain/chain ring..
 
#4 ·
Great reply Captain. I like the 3rd option but where can I get direct replacement chainrings and do I use the current Spidering and just attach the single chainring to that? i assume I will need smaller chainring bolts? Also which chainguide should I get - I looked at the XCX just not sure if I get the one that connects to BB - I don't have a BB it is S-works straight through crank - or the one that connects to bottom tube. I just want to have to buy the parts that you tell me to and then I can install it myself. How much weight we talking here from removing Front Derail, Front Shifter, Housing, Connecting wire, removing top and bottom chainrings but adding the chainguide. All prior parts are XTR. Also will 11-32 suffice in rear or 11-34 as I have both I can use. Keep in mind this is for my wife when she races. What gear in front should she get - she mostly never does big in front but if she does she would be big in front and maybe the 7th gear in the rear and on the low side only very rarely drops to 1 in front and in rear would be maybe 3-4 in uphill climbs. Thanks again...
 
#5 ·
Great reply Captain. I like the 3rd option but where can I get direct replacement chainrings and do I use the current Spidering and just attach the single chainring to that? i assume I will need smaller chainring bolts?
Just checked, this is your bike right: Specialized Bicycle Components

yeah, just get a 4 x 104 single speed chainring of your picking and use that in the middle position. At the same time get single speed chainring nuts/bolts that will take care of the cranks.

Also which chainguide should I get - I looked at the XCX just not sure if I get the one that connects to BB - I don't have a BB it is S-works straight through crank - or the one that connects to bottom tube. I just want to have to buy the parts that you tell me to and then I can install it myself.
Looks like you have a DMD front mount, annoying thing about the e13 xcx is it's only 34T-42T for the dmd version, the MRP is 32T-42T, I would recommend going w/the MRP in that case, Mountain Racing Products home of MRP, White Brothers, Kreitler, Tamer, and Power Grips | Shop "FD MOUNT (HIGH) 32-40T - (+$20.00)" last option is the one u want(order it from wherever just showing u which one)

How much weight we talking here from removing Front Derail, Front Shifter, Housing, Connecting wire, removing top and bottom chainrings but adding the chainguide. All prior parts are XTR. Also will 11-32 suffice in rear or 11-34 as I have both I can use. Keep in mind this is for my wife when she races. What gear in front should she get - she mostly never does big in front but if she does she would be big in front and maybe the 7th gear in the rear and on the low side only very rarely drops to 1 in front and in rear would be maybe 3-4 in uphill climbs. Thanks again...
Not sure on the weight to be honest, I mostly did it for the simplicity of not having to deal with a front derailleur. You will def. drop some weight by removing those 3 chain rings and replacing them with a lighter single, the chainguide adds like 60g, which will probably cancel out any weight savings you get by removing the front derailleur. I would def. go with the 11-34 cassette.. I run 11-36T cassette with 32T chainring and it's about perfect for where I ride, I'm going to go up to a 34T as I'm topping out more and more on the mid to high speed sections. I would start with 32T chain ring and 11-34T cassette and see how that goes. You could always switch to 10spd and get a 11-36T rear cassette if she needs an extra climbing gear.
 
#8 ·
Now I am getting upset. I was just asking my wife if she ever uses middle in front and then 8 or 9 (11t or 12t) in rear and she says never - she says big in front and then 5 in rear gives her easier pedaling and faster speeds. is that correct in what she says meaning is a middle ring in front and a 11t or 12t not as efficient as a large in front and a smaller like 17t or 21t in rear?
 
#10 ·
Now i was thinking TruVativ XX 26-39 but I don't know of any weight savings here and then i would need to take off the Spider ring for which I don't have a tool for. Also I guess I can use the front derailleur and shifter and just set the limits. Any downside in doing it this way? Also if I get this and keep my 11-32 do I need a 10 speed chain or 9 speed still work?
 
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