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  1. #1
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    Best front ring size for stumpy evo??

    This has prolly been covered but after some reading I couldn't find it. I rode a 2013 stumpy evo 26" for trail duties last season & never liked the way it pedaled. I ran a 30t front ring (xx1) & suspect this may have had something to do with it's sluggish pedaling. I put the medium sized volume reducer in the shock & this helped a bit. So if I used an oneup 42t rear cog I wouldn't need to run a 30t ring up front if say 32t or 34t pedaled better.

    So what say ye....what is the best front ring size for pedaling efficiency on the stumpy evo?

  2. #2
    JCL
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    The larger the chainring the larger level of antisquat.

  3. #3
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    I have xx1 on mine and I do like the way it pedals with the 34t, but I like the extra lowend for climbing the 32t offers. I tried a 30t and didnt care for the way it pedaled at all.

    If you dont have long steep climbs go 34t or even 36t.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
    2014 Fatboy

  4. #4
    scn
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    This thread interests me for both the rear shock set up as well as the chain ring set up. I am rebuilding my Evo with a new frame (thanks Specialized) and while everything is apart had considered a couple changes. Whalenard could you provide input on what instigated your addition of the volume reducer? Do you feel that you can achieve good traction while maintaining a good platform? I feel I am typically playing the game between firm enough platform to get good pump out of berms and transitions and supple enough to maintain great traction. I've always had to run a higher pressure than the auto-sag suggests. I Would like to hear your opinion of before and after the addition of the reducer.

    On the chain ring front I have been running 32 up front with a 10 speed 11-36 out back. It could be technique, but I find on technical climbing I am searching for something...fine line between too hard of a gear to push and not enough forward drive to clear obstacles. That could be mostly due to technique but possibly the gearing or suspension. I would like to change the front to a narrow-wide set up and had thought about a 30 tooth for clearance, but maybe sticking with 32 would be better. Mr. Lynch, do you also run a chain guide of any kind or just the XX1? Right now I have been running a top guide and shadow plus rear with good results, but am interested in losing the chain guide if it seems like it will work as well.

    thanks in advance for your thoughts.

  5. #5
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    I have an MRP AMG, but I cut off the top guide. Zero need for it. I've never lost a chain and i've bene running xx1 for 14 months now.

    On my Enduro Evo I run a Raceface wide narrow ring (34t) and a x9 typr 2 RD. No guide on that bike either. It has never dropped a chain and I rode 2 days at Whistler too. I had a 30t on it for a bit but I kept spinning out of fast descents.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
    2014 Fatboy

  6. #6
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    With a 1x11 it seems like you would be shifting all the time, and would be difficult for climbing for people who live out in the rockies. Just my thoughts.

  7. #7
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    You need to think of 1x11 like this. The first 10 gears are pretty much the same any 2x10 has in the big ring. The 11Th gear is like dropping into your small ring for those really steep climbs.

    During the summer a lot of our ride have 3-5k worth of climbing and none of my buddies or I have had any complaints with xx1. 3 of us use and it and pretty much will never go back to a 2x or 2x setup.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  8. #8
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    Hum. interesting. I do use my 2nd big ring on some things. Once 1x11 is down to the x9 category I might consider.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by scn View Post
    This thread interests me for both the rear shock set up as well as the chain ring set up. I am rebuilding my Evo with a new frame (thanks Specialized) and while everything is apart had considered a couple changes. Whalenard could you provide input on what instigated your addition of the volume reducer? Do you feel that you can achieve good traction while maintaining a good platform? I feel I am typically playing the game between firm enough platform to get good pump out of berms and transitions and supple enough to maintain great traction. I've always had to run a higher pressure than the auto-sag suggests. I Would like to hear your opinion of before and after the addition of the reducer.

    On the chain ring front I have been running 32 up front with a 10 speed 11-36 out back. It could be technique, but I find on technical climbing I am searching for something...fine line between too hard of a gear to push and not enough forward drive to clear obstacles. That could be mostly due to technique but possibly the gearing or suspension. I would like to change the front to a narrow-wide set up and had thought about a 30 tooth for clearance, but maybe sticking with 32 would be better. Mr. Lynch, do you also run a chain guide of any kind or just the XX1? Right now I have been running a top guide and shadow plus rear with good results, but am interested in losing the chain guide if it seems like it will work as well.

    thanks in advance for your thoughts.
    Running the volume reducer made a huge difference in the overall performance of my shock for the better. I have always messed with oil level or volume in my bikes shocks one way or another and have had a few "pushed" I will be sending my evo shock to push as well as I weigh 230 at my lightest peak riding fitness weight and base tuned shocks simply don't cover me.

    The new wide narrow rings are a HUGE leap forward in performance in my opinion. I used to drop chains (almost every ride) with a dual guide. Since going to xx1 I have never dropped a chain and that's just plain awesome. I don't recommend a 30t front ring for the stumpy. Get one of these OneUp Components - OneUp Components 42T Sprocket and run a
    34t front ring. That's my plan and the info on this thread helped confirm it. That will give you more range both high & low...win win

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumpynerd View Post
    With a 1x11 it seems like you would be shifting all the time, and would be difficult for climbing for people who live out in the rockies. Just my thoughts.
    I shift a little more..... maybe.....not sure. Since going 1x10 would be the first time EVER in all of 25+ years of mountain biking that I actually use all my gears. I ride in the cascades & live for the epic 30 mile rides.

  11. #11
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    Seems strange that the sworks and other models I have seen in bike mags dont come with bash guards for 1x11. Steep price to pay for new bike, and not get a bash guard.

    I use my bash guard quite a bit going over big logs and rocks and wouldnt leave home without one.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    I have an MRP AMG, but I cut off the top guide. Zero need for it. I've never lost a chain and i've bene running xx1 for 14 months now.
    Interesting. Got a pic of this set-up? I've been considering this- hacking up an AMG for the bash guard, but lately I'm thinking of running nothing. With the ground clearance of a 32t, and the chainring protected by the chain- unless I tag my chainring multiple times every ride, I'll just go without.

    Mr. Lynch, what's your experience been with bashing into stuff?

  13. #13
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    I'll have to take a pic of it.
    Originally I just removed the top guide, but I have an all black bike an the silver "mount" arm sticking up bugged me. I used my bandsaw and cut off the extension. I basically turned the AMG into an XCG. The smallest XCG you can get is a 36t, and that would basically elimate the clearance I gained running a 32t ring. The AMG model I got was the 28t-32t, so it allows for much more clearance.

    I'm not running the taco bash so much for chainring protection, more for frame protection. My Stumpy has a carbon frame and we have a lot of logs and rocks we ride over on the trails out here.

    I have a friend who had no bash protection on his carbon SJ and he did this on a log...

    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  14. #14
    scn
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    I have been running the MRP AMG setup with bash and top guide, but hope to not run any of it, just the narrow wide chain ring in combination with the shadow plus rear derailleur. I think use of the bash guard is dependent on riding style and location and trail obstacles (or lack of them). I mostly ride in the Cascades, and both the west and east sides and can't really think of where I would really need a bash guard. I put the AMG on because I had compatibility issues with a derailleur mount top guide and thought the AMG bash could potentially protect my carbon frame. The guard doesn't have any scars on it after 9 months or so of use. Most of the impacts to my bike are related to rocks flying up from the front tire on fast descents, which typically hit the down tube rather than the bash guard. The clearance of the 32 ring up front has been no problem going over obstacles. And based on this thread, I think I'll keep the 32 count, just changing it to a narrow/wide.

    Same with the shifting or need for a smaller ring or XX-1 type setup. I am fine with the 32 front 36 in back 10-speed setup for my riding and haven't needed more. That said, I don't encounter long technical climbs on my rides and prefer out of the saddle climbing when it is technical.

  15. #15
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    ^^ Ouch. Yeah, this would be for my carbon enduro. Just got it.
    Coming from a Giant Reign X that I ran a 32t bashring and blackspire stinger. I'd hit those, but not the frame.

    The taco sounds like it may be a good idea for the enduro.

  16. #16
    scn
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    Yep, ouch. Is this the non-drive side? Like I said earlier, I have been running a bash guard (taco style) but I am thinking about abandoning it. I am wondering if he would have been protected even with a bash ring or taco style guard if it is the non-drive side. Did his chain ring fold? Or just the angle of the hit ended up doing this? Does my question make sense?

    Did this compromise his hydraulic line or shift cable? I have never been a fan of that routing beneath the down tube, but haven't actually had any problem with it.

  17. #17
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    A bash of any sort would have most likely prevented it. He was rolling over a log and happened to hit just right and punched out a chunk of frame. He said it wasnt a hard impact at all either and he didnt even notice it right away. Running a 30t or 32t ring gives you tons of clearance, but not much in the way of frame protection.

    I dont believe any lines where damaged and the frame was warranty replaced.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
    2014 Fatboy

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