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  1. #1
    jason8265
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    AFR Shock Air Sleeve Service

    Seen a lot of great information on fork service but none on the shock for my SL. Is the air service the same as it was on the Fox line? Let air out, unscrew canister, clean, grease orings, etc.? Is the Slick Honey Grease the best to use for this service? Is this a good idea to do right away even thought the bike is new?

    Thanks

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    Yes to all

  3. #3
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    the air sleeve service is very easy and simple.
    remove the shock from the chassis.
    ( measure the eye to eye length of the shock and record it ----this can be very importaint for later)
    remove the air pressure from the sleeve.
    unscrew the sleve --( i use a rubber strap wrench -----if you do not have arthritis in your hands you can just screw it off with your hands )
    ----note that the sleeve will move down and will have resistance ( negitive air or a vacuum in the sleeve and you have to kinda pull hard to get it to come off the shock body.
    when it comes off you will also see an o ring left on the shock under the seal head or it may stay in the sleeve , --this is the top out bumper --do not forget it or loose it .

    take and clean it all up nicely , ---and put slick honey on the shock sealhead ring, and pack the seal in the sleeve with honey also ------i add aliltte extra honey on the shock shaft --------check out the bottom out o ring inbetween the shims at the top of the shock and make sure it is ok .

    no here is where fox does not tell you how to assemble the sleeve back on the body without causing a negitive pressure and actually making the shock shorter after reassembled .

    i take a 4" long .004 tho feeler guage and lay it on the shock across both seals areas at the same time,
    then now slide the sleeve on the shock right over the feeler guage, and while you are sliding the sleeve on you are causing a leak at the feeler guage and the sleeve will go all the way on and not have any back pressure pulling the shock shorter,-

    then pull the feeler guage out , ------air your shock up to your running pressure, --and then measure the eye to eye length of your shock and make sure it is at your running length ,

    and you are ready to go !!

    it is really simple.

    most of all the fox stuff i get is assembled wrong and the shock does not have full travel like it is supposed to because they do not correctly bleed the sleeve on assembly.

    there other ways to assemble and bleed the sleeve on these air shocks.

    but in the feild , the .004 feeler guage works very well

  4. #4
    jason8265
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    Thanks for the help. Are there concerns with cutting the oring in the process above. Should the same be followed on fox shocks. I have seen what you are talking about but it seems like the fox shock was only shorter until air was pumped into it. Would installing the sleeve while depressing the valve stem have the same impact.

    Thanks again for the detailed writeup.

  5. #5
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    the feeler guage will not hurt the seals at all on these shocks, i have been doing this for years and never had a problem at all with it .

    go ahead and put your sleeve on whithout bleeding off the negitive pressure and you will see that with even setting the pressure at 200 psi in the sleeve the shock will still be 3/8" two short

    the shape of the air sleeve and wheather or not it has a rebound bumper ring on the shock will make the difference somewhat,

    but i do not like having this negitive pressure in any shocks .
    i like all the shocks to come out full travel .
    my 07 stumpy was short and semi stuck down when i got it , ----and the bike did not handle correctly .

    i took the fox shock off and bleed it correctly and the thing poped up another 3'8" or better and the thing was now handling like it should and i could set the sag

    i have gotten several enduros that the guys did their air sleeves, and they noticed the things handled like hell .
    i showed them how to bleed the sleeve and they were back running fine !!

  6. #6
    jason8265
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    Just to be clear on this bleed process. You lay the feeler gauge on the shock shaft, along the shaft and slide the shock air sleeve up over the feeler gauge right? On my fox shock I had a couple questions that I assume would apply here. The seal for the air chamber is between the large o-ring and the inner surface of the sleeve. When I had my shock serviced last, I told them it seemed to loose a little air over time. They replaced the shaft also (pretty cheap at $20) and had circled a tiny scratch on it stating this may be my leak problem. Realizing that the seal is above this, that story doesn't make sense. Also, the seal you are bleeding the air from is only a dust seal, right? Does air normally move past this seal during operation? When the shock compresses, it would seem this would form a vacuum if it was air tight.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jason8265
    Just to be clear on this bleed process. You lay the feeler gauge on the shock shaft, along the shaft and slide the shock air sleeve up over the feeler gauge right? On my fox shock I had a couple questions that I assume would apply here. The seal for the air chamber is between the large o-ring and the inner surface of the sleeve. When I had my shock serviced last, I told them it seemed to loose a little air over time. They replaced the shaft also (pretty cheap at $20) and had circled a tiny scratch on it stating this may be my leak problem. Realizing that the seal is above this, that story doesn't make sense. Also, the seal you are bleeding the air from is only a dust seal, right? Does air normally move past this seal during operation? When the shock compresses, it would seem this would form a vacuum if it was air tight.
    the bottom chamber is air tight , that is why you can trap negitive or positive pressure here and really affect the shock length and how it function )
    when the o-ring on the seal head leaks and lets pressure into the bottom chamber it will cause your shock to stick down ,-----this can be caused by several things ,------but generally when a shock leaks , ( wheather it be from inbetween the two chambers on the air sleve , or when the nitrogen charged seal in the head leaks and dumps in both chambers on the sleve )
    it is because the shock has not been taken care of and just ran to deth .
    i really can not believe that mountain bikers will go a year or more whithout servicing their forks and shock .

    ( these componets get beat all to hell )
    and really need to be taken care of alot to keep them from wearing out and performing badly.

    generally when a shock leaks the air sleeve "ride height" air , ---it is because the shock has ran so long that all of the slickhoney has worn off of the two seal areas in the sleeve and the air can go from the upper chamber and weep right out into the lower chamber and right out the lower seal .

    small nicks in the shock body are not good but generally generally do not pose a huge problem.

    ( the big thing is to not let your shock dry out and ruin the air sleeve seals, the seal head seal, --and or score the shock body with a dry air sleeve seal .)


    on bleeding the air sleeve, i like to lay the feeler guage along both the seal head o-ring and install the air sleeve on and let the bottom seal in the air sleeve also run right on this feeler guage and push it all the way up to the threads and i will spin the shaft by the upper shock eye and screw it all together and then slide the feeler guage out the bottom , ---and now you have bleed both chambers of the sleeve and you done .

  8. #8
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    any ideas on how to do bleed the lower air chamber on a Swinger 4 way without a total dis-assembly? I can't slip a slim feeler gauge under the seal due to the additional oil chamber being in the way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PB Matrix
    any ideas on how to do bleed the lower air chamber on a Swinger 4 way without a total dis-assembly? I can't slip a slim feeler gauge under the seal due to the additional oil chamber being in the way.
    i do like that old manitue swinger 4 way shock , they do work very well !

    i was able to slip a 35mm film negitive up in the bottom seal while it was still on the body and shove honey in the bottom by the negitive and then i used the negitive as a guide for my feeler guage in the bottom and it bleed good while i slid it up into place ,--
    i was going to slide another feeler guage in through the top of the air sleeve , but i did not need to .

  10. #10
    jason8265
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    Thanks for all the help. kelstr, if you do this in the near future can we coax you into posting a pic. For some reason the feeler gauge make me nervous for scratching or cutting the seal/shaft but I think I am picturing this wrong as I am in no way doubting the expertise I am getting. Could this also be done with a flattened straw as the plastic would help on any scratching concerns?

    Thanks again,
    Jason

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    a straw, ---you know that is a good idea, i have never tried one , but it would be worth a try .

    i have use a 35mm film negitive , -if you cut the negative down to a 6mm wide strip
    it will work generally .

    ill have to get some straws and have them here and try them !!

  12. #12
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    ?! I've serviced a lot of Fox shocks and never had the stated problem. What I find happen is that when you initially pump the shock up some of that volume will bleed into the negative chamber until the pressure is equalized. While not criticizing Kelstr's technique I find it unnecessary unless you don't want to wait for the air pressure to equalize. Just my 2 cents.

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    the one big difference on the AFR and most of the newer fox shocks, is that there is a rebound bump stop o-ring that will fit perfactly in the lower section of the air sleeve that is fixed to the botton of the seal head and when the shock is exspanded , the bump stop 0ring totaly seals off the area and the shock will stay 3/8" shorter forever.

    some of the fox shocks that do not have a bump stop will still stay shorter for ever also.

    i can not tell you the shocks that i get in the shop that are partially stuck down because they were assemblied with to much negitive air .

    also this is one problem that sticks a shock down, ------the pumped in "ride height air" will get blown into the lower negitive side when the seal gets worn and totally stick the shock compleatly down , ----and they never equilize or come back up.

    this is why you always want to check the installed height (eye to eye ) of any shock you are servicing, ----and make sure when you are done the shock is the same height you started with

  14. #14
    jason8265
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    All right, I did this service today and had some trouble. I used the straw which worked pretty good to bleed. The first couple times I slid the sleeve up I didn't have it all situated and so I tried a third time and that when the problem started. The sleeve would not slide over the main seal in the top of the shock. I lined it up carefully and it seemed that the main seal between the two white bushings would push up and the upper bushing would expand and not allow the sleeve to slid over. After about an hour I finally got lucky but not until I had removed the bushing pieces and the seal to try and figure it out. Once I did that it still took several times to get it. Has anyone had this problem? Its all together and seems good to go but it was a true pain in the butt.

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    generally this is not an issue on a shock with a seal set that has been already installed ,
    you can help the sleeve slide into place by gently rocking the sleeve side to side if you have troubble getting the sleeve to slide over the seal,
    there is also an assembly tool for automatic transmissions ( a lip seal tool , --its a .004 tho feeler guage ) that you can use it like a shoe horn to het a seal not roll and jam on assembly,

    you can also put the seal in the freezer and get it cold if you are having troubble,

    but like i say , generally these things will slide right on with enough slick honey and some carefull determanation !!

  16. #16
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    I know this is an old thread, but I just performed this shock service on my bike today and wanted to share my experience.

    It all went smoothly except for one part: the bleeding of the air sleeve when putting it back on. I tried a drinking straw, a thin zip tie, a shifter cable, and a feeler gauge, but couldn't for the life of me pull any of the aforementioned items out after getting the desired "bleed effect." The air escaping was audible, but the seals were so tight that whatever I put in there for the bleed just stayed wedged in there. I'm actually pretty lucky that I didn't do any damage to the seals, because I was struggling with this procedure for at least 2 hours.

    I ultimately gave up and threaded the air sleeve back on without making an attempt to bleed it, figuring that my shock would be too short from the negative air pressure, but I would at least be able to go for a ride. Surprisingly, my shock was not too short at all. My eye-to-eye measurements weren't necessarily the most precise, but as far as I can tell, my shock is maybe 1mm shorter than it's supposed to be, but it runs a million times more smoothly than before. No initial stiction, and really smooth throughout the entire stroke. Needed to up the air pressure in the shock about 5 psi to compensate for the new-found lack of friction.

    Just got back from a 3 hour ride on the newly serviced shock, and it's like I'm riding a brand new bike. It actually feels like I have a full 6 inches of travel in the back now, and it's much more supple than before.

  17. #17
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    i just got my bike back together with everything slick honey'd and it's almost too active! unless i really have the compression damping turned up, standing and cranking causes more suspension movement than before. i might try some green loctite on the dust wipers to compensate.

    One thing i did notice when putting the bike back together was if I torqued the shock bolts to spec, the plastic spacers on either side of the shock eye got clamped to the point that the shock did not want to pivot smoothly. This was especially noticeable on the bottom mount with the two tabs welded to the frame. I figured the reducer sleeve would get clamped solid before any significant pressure was applied to these spacers, but they were definately squeezing the shock and causing rotational drag. I cleaned the bolt threads, applied new loctite, and tightened the bottom bolt while pivoting the shock (not attached at the rocker) until there was zero side to side play and minimal rotational drag. I then installed the upper bolt to about the same torque. I figured what's the point of getting my shock moving real slick if it's just going to stick at the eyes?

  18. #18
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    Dexter:

    Glad to hear your service went well. This is why we recommend the service intervals. Suspension is a very dynamic component that sees a lot of hard use. A basic air sleeve service on your shock and a lower leg maintenance on your fork @ regular intervals will keep the suspension working at its peak performance until a full service is needed.

    For future reference; the bleeding of the air sleeve is not a required step in a basic air sleeve maintenance.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speci- Suspension Tech
    For future reference; the bleeding of the air sleeve is not a required step in a basic air sleeve maintenance.
    Haha yeah... After my absurdly frustrating experience today, I'm gonna be skipping that step in the future.

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    it is amazing how well the shock and fork work when they are kept serviced .

    the shock is so easy that once you get used to it , you can do it very quickly-----and you can very the amount of trapped negitive pressure in the shock for a different feel ----.

    i have been trying a different amount of negitive pressure , and a slightly different length shock untill i finnally got the feel i wanted for me.

    i even left the "o" ring off from under the air sleeve so i could trap more negitive pressure and slick honey and still have the stock length.

    7"15/16's is the fairly normal length ------( thats right at 5cm and 6mm of shock shaft sticking out the bottom of the shock)

    if you do not bleed the shock at all , and you use alot of honey and you have the "O" ring in the shock-----you can be 6 to 7 mm shorter .
    so you end up with 5cm of shock shaft sticking out ----and this will slaken out the ht angle more and you lose travel.

    so its good to really measure and know just where you are at.

    the other feature about trapping some negitive pressure that i like is, ---the shock breaks into the travel easier from fully extended ,
    this gives it a better small bump absorbtion .

    the other thing i noticed ,----is with negitive pressure pulling the shock down , you must use alot more positive pressure to get your ride height -----( i will go from 123 with a stock shock , to 140 with negitive pressure in the shock)---

    and this really helps the bottoming resistance big time ---------but yet the shock stills breaks into the initial begining part of movement easier and is smoother

    i will weld up alittle schradder valve assembly of somekind to the lower portion of the air sleeve so i can add and subtract the negitive pressure at will and be able to use it as a tunning tool easier .

    the AFR of the future should have this tunning option !!

  21. #21
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    "i will weld up alittle schradder valve assembly of somekind to the lower portion of the air sleeve so i can add and subtract the negitive pressure at will and be able to use it as a tunning tool easier .

    the AFR of the future should have this tunning option !!"

    I disagree. You know KISS right? "Keep it simple, for stupid" there are already to many adjustments on the shock as it is. Adding a negative chamber adjustment is going to further confuse the layman and if they add to much - air pressure it will counter act the spike valve's function. My shock works as designed with zero negative pressure and stays locked till I need it, Lower tire pressure takes care of the small bumps on a rear tire.

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    Anyone take any pictures while doing this AFR sleeve service? Would love to see some pics before I give it a go.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by PB Matrix
    "i will weld up alittle schradder valve assembly of somekind to the lower portion of the air sleeve so i can add and subtract the negitive pressure at will and be able to use it as a tunning tool easier .

    the AFR of the future should have this tunning option !!"

    I disagree. You know KISS right? "Keep it simple, for stupid" there are already to many adjustments on the shock as it is. Adding a negative chamber adjustment is going to further confuse the layman and if they add to much - air pressure it will counter act the spike valve's function. My shock works as designed with zero negative pressure and stays locked till I need it, Lower tire pressure takes care of the small bumps on a rear tire.
    you are correct PB ----i do see alot of guys that have the negitive and positive pressure adjustements on their suspensions and they do get it all confused.

    this is really only for a guy that needs and wants the option , --.( i am kinda queer and like to see what i can and can not achive )

    most guys will really like the shock with the negitive side all bled out like it was stock,---
    the AFR does work very well and is a great design !

    you gotta admit ---this AFR on the enduro works very well and the pedaling platform that is in all the compression ranges does work very well .

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by solara
    Anyone take any pictures while doing this AFR sleeve service? Would love to see some pics before I give it a go.
    there was an article in Mountain Bike Action magazine done up real nice with pics and a good write up .

    it was april edition i believe ( of course i can't remember time very well so it may not be april )

    and i think that Fox on their web site has some kinda ok drawings and instructions on doing this air sleeve service on air shocks also !!

  25. #25
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    Come on Bro...post some pics!!!

    Kelstr,

    I've been following your post on several forums and you seem like the most knowledgable tech/mech out there. Thanks for you time and attention! Please...please...please, can you post some pics so mechanical idiots like me can do this service with confidence (including the negative air bleeding steps)!!!

    Thanks in advance,
    Clint
    PS, I ride an XL 2007 Enduro SL Expert and I am 230lbs with gear, do you have any tuning tips for guys my size?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clint Burke
    Kelstr,

    I've been following your post on several forums and you seem like the most knowledgable tech/mech out there. Thanks for you time and attention! Please...please...please, can you post some pics so mechanical idiots like me can do this service with confidence (including the negative air bleeding steps)!!!

    Thanks in advance,
    Clint
    PS, I ride an XL 2007 Enduro SL Expert and I am 230lbs with gear, do you have any tuning tips for guys my size?
    i will get some pics up on here, --( my ex wife knows how and has the camera ) (--and she still hates me --but----------i never got into the 20 century much less the 21'st -----i am an old 1960's guy that still has a 1932 bell rotory phone on the wall )

    the good thing about an air shock is you can get the ride height correct , ----and if you upgraded to the 08 shock , you will have pleanty of rebound to keep you dialed .

    i like the smaller 07 air sleeve --------but you can add oil in the 08 sleeve to make the voloum area smaller ------so it really does not matter -----i just liked the sleek look

    this enduro is very adjustable and does work with all size riders !!

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    That would be awesome kelstr.

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    found it on google, check it out if it helps

    http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...ice_videos.htm

  29. #29
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    Step by step with photos

    I just performed this service, and thought I'd share a few photos to help those who might be a little more visually oriented. After the Slick Honey treatment on the fork and shock, my SL feels like an entirely new animal. I'm heading out to Napa Skyline in about an hour to put it to work...

    Step 1: Remove AFR Shock from bike

    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z87/ewberndt/AFR%20Air%20Sleeve%20Service/img_2106.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    *Once the bolts are removed, the rear wheel will drop without warning, so rig something up to support it. Also, be aware that the shock will pop right out of the mounts as soon as the bolts are removed. I was lucky enough to catch it before it hit the floor.

    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z87/ewberndt/AFR%20Air%20Sleeve%20Service/img_2112.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    Step 2: Measure eye to eye length before discharging air pressure to use as a reference for reassembly. Then discharge air from Schrader valve.

    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z87/ewberndt/AFR%20Air%20Sleeve%20Service/img_2128.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    Step 3: Remove air sleeve from shock by turning counter-clockwise. I had to gently but forcibly compress the shock to get it to finally separate.

    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z87/ewberndt/AFR%20Air%20Sleeve%20Service/img_2132.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    Step 4: Clean everything, slather it up with Slick Honey, and reassemble. I used a small strip of 35mm film negative as recommended by Kelstr to cover the seals in order to prevent negative air from being trapped. Worked like a champ.

    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z87/ewberndt/AFR%20Air%20Sleeve%20Service/img_2138.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    Step 5: Reinflate to proper pressure according to your weight and desired sag (note a little more pressure may be required to achieve proper sag because everything is so slippery now), and remeasure eye to eye length.

    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z87/ewberndt/AFR%20Air%20Sleeve%20Service/img_2135.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    Step 6: Remount on bike and torque bolts to 100-120 inch pounds. Enjoy.

  30. #30
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    thank you e-bo-b for getting pictures up on here ! --( since i am a morron and can not understand how pictures work on a computer )

    good job on write up also .

    now everybody can see how easy it is to take care of their air sleeve !!

  31. #31
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    Slick Honey

    Is slick honey the same thing as prep-m?

  32. #32
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    WORD TO THE WISE,
    There is negative spring for a reason; do you think the engineers designed them that way for S&^% and giggles.
    Have you ThunderBrapped Today?

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    please, engineers!!!, waaa haaa haaa, i am sure that negative air is not a design feature, if it was there would be a air fill port for it on some manufacture's shock somewhere. Kelst just has too much "play time on his hand". I like 0 neg pressure and full extension of the shock, he doesn't.

  34. #34
    Fat Skis/Fat Tires
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    Just got back from the test ride...



    I wish there was a face with a bigger smile, because it is indeed that good!!! Between the slick honey treatment on the fork and shock and the stanchion alignment, she's as slippery as an eel!!! I was literally giggling for most of the ride. This bike has never felt this good, even on day one!! I jumped on my friend's '08 Expert half way through the ride just to get a little perspective, and I can't believe I ever lived like that before!!! I once was lost, but now I'm found, was blind but now I see!!!!!!!!!

    AMAZING!!!!! If you haven't yet performed this procedure, do it now. Call in sick if you have to. Don't pedal another mile without it!!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  35. #35
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    Can we service an afr epic brain a similar way (without touching the brain part, only air sleeve service)?

    thanks

  36. #36
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    thanks e-bo-b for the picture giude. it's pretty useful for those who are not english mothertongue (like me).

    if it's that simple, i will definitely give it a try. (i've never dared disassembling the fork, but I was able to see a day-night improvement just by injecting some fork oil through the dust seals!).

    I just need to find an equivalent for the Slick Honey in Italy.
    Last edited by mdsjack; 09-24-2008 at 03:16 AM.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdsjack
    thank's e-bo-b for the picture giude. it's pretty useful for those who are not english mothertongue (like me).

    if it's that simple, i will definitely give it a try. (i've never dared disassembling the fork, but I was able to see a day-night improvement just by injecting some fork oil through the dust seals!).

    I just need to find an equivalent for the Slick Honey in Italy.
    Hi Jack!!!
    You can find Slick Honey at crc.
    I also find it at my local bike shop!!! In fugassa town

  38. #38
    100% italian mtbiker
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    ahahaha hi dyna, do you think it's better if I *actually* ask my LBS if he sells slick honey, before posting? I doubt he does, but who knows...


    ps: did I really write " thank's "?... :P

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdsjack
    ahahaha hi dyna, do you think it's better if I *actually* ask my LBS if he sells slick honey, before posting? I doubt he does, but who knows...


    ps: did I really write " thank's "?... :P
    what''s the problem to post before ask if you think he does not sell SH?!?!
    It's better to have as much info as possible... as soon as possible!!

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by stmarti
    Can we service an afr epic brain a similar way (without touching the brain part, only air sleeve service)?

    thanks

    Would also like to know.
    12 Specialized SJ EVO 29
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  41. #41
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by e-bo-b
    Just got back from the test ride...



    I wish there was a face with a bigger smile, because it is indeed that good!!! Between the slick honey treatment on the fork and shock and the stanchion alignment, she's as slippery as an eel!!! I was literally giggling for most of the ride. This bike has never felt this good, even on day one!! I jumped on my friend's '08 Expert half way through the ride just to get a little perspective, and I can't believe I ever lived like that before!!! I once was lost, but now I'm found, was blind but now I see!!!!!!!!!

    AMAZING!!!!! If you haven't yet performed this procedure, do it now. Call in sick if you have to. Don't pedal another mile without it!!!!
    Top job e-bo-b (in every respect)

    It just hacks me off big-time though, that WE THE OWNERS have been lumbered with having to initially carry out these procedures in order to provide any hope of the front & rear suspension components working satisfactorily from the off and that WE have to continue to repeat these strip-down procedures pretty damn regularly (IN ADDITION to the relatively frequent paid service schedules, necessary to ensure warranty compliance); otherwise as you will find, the components very soon regress back to under-performing, unreliable mediocity ............... But hey; maybe I'm just having a bad day(?!) - Well done again, you
    Last edited by Lipps64; 09-24-2008 at 12:23 PM.
    Lend me £20.00 and I'll buy you a drink!

  42. #42
    Fat Skis/Fat Tires
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    Quote Originally Posted by LititzDude
    Is slick honey the same thing as prep-m?
    Sounds like a similar light weight suspension grease, and should serve the same purpose.

    http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=147845

    Not sure if Slick Honey is a little thicker or not.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lipps64
    Top job e-bo-b (in every respect)

    It just hacks me off big-time though, that WE THE OWNERS have been lumbered with having to initially carry out these procedures in order to provide any hope of the front & rear suspension components to work satisfactorily from the off and that WE have to continue to repeat these strip-down procedures pretty damn regularly (IN ADDITION to to the relatively frequent paid service schedules, necessary to ensure warranty compliance); otherwise as you will find, the components very soon regress back to under-performing, unreliable mediocity ............... But hey; maybe I'm just having a bad day(?!) - Well done again, you
    I can't imagine why these e150's and AFR's are shipped without being properly lubed up. The only thing I can think of is that there is such a marked difference in the feel of these components post-Slick Honey, and down the road when the grease eventually dissipates, that people would be bringing them back for warranty replacement. Better to start us off with low expectations I suppose...

    And I'm not particularly stoked on having to send the cartirdges back to Specialized for a service. 250 hours is it? I imagine that counter resets when you get a replacement cartridge, right?

    That being said, I'm sure that this service, when performed on ANY brand of suspension components, would make a night and day difference. It really feels like I have a coil shock on there now. I find wrenching on my bike therapeutic as well.

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    So, it is so simple?! I will perform this treatment right now. I hope that lithium grease will do the trick instead of slick honey. Thank you kelstr and bob.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderBringer#1
    WORD TO THE WISE,
    There is negative spring for a reason; do you think the engineers designed them that way for S&^% and giggles.
    as delievered, the AFR shock on the enduro does not have any negitive spring air in it .

    so yes ----the engineers designed it with no negitive spring in order to have a eye to eye length of 7.935"

    so if you want the bike put back stock , you will bleed the negitive spring side out .


    but however, i have found i can leave out the one rubber "O" ring under the air sleeve while servicing the sleeve and i can leave a good charge of negitive spring air and still have my correct shock eye to eye length.

    and the shock works like a spring shock and the small bump performance is greatly improved.

    i will add a schrader valve on my air sleeve when i get a chance and then i can tune with it alittle easier .

    its all good , just another tuning option for the guys that want the best dialed chassis they can get !!

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorsic
    So, it is so simple?! I will perform this treatment right now. I hope that lithium grease will do the trick instead of slick honey. Thank you kelstr and bob.
    I don't think litium grease is a good idea. let us know if it works.

  47. #47
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    Quote:
    <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by gorsic
    So, it is so simple?! I will perform this treatment right now. I hope that lithium grease will do the trick instead of slick honey. Thank you kelstr and bob.

    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

    I don't think litium grease is a good idea. let us know if it works
    What should go wrong?

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    I use litium based Dow Corning #33 on all my rubber seals and o-rings on paintball markers and MTB products with great success. Slick Honey was tried in all these applications as well, but it just does not last as long as the Dow33. Slick Honey would last 1500 shots on my Matrix Marker, Dow33 would last 3,000 or so. Slick honey on the E-150 seals would be gone in less than two weeks, Dow33 will still be in the seal and has to be removed and then refreshed after a month or so.

  49. #49
    Wil109
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    I have just tried the air sleeve service. Prior to the service the length from bottom to top of the shock was 217 mm. After the service with Kelstrs feeler gauge trick, I measured again and got 222mm from top to bottom give or take 1 mm before and after. So possibly an extra 5mm of travel. Can't wait to get out and try it, but won't be able to for a few days yet.
    I love my bike and my bike loves me

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by stmarti
    Can we service an afr epic brain a similar way (without touching the brain part, only air sleeve service)?

    thanks
    the epic is alittle different , the fairly normal epic ( with the resivoir attatched on the bottom of the shock )-----it can be lubed, you can get a film negitive slid in it and get it lubed.

    i have real quickly removed the air sleeve down on an epic and you can work slick honey into the lower seal and fill the top and upper portion with slick honey and put her all back together and it sure works wonders .

    all these shocks should come all apart at least once if not twice a year for a good oil change , bleed, reset the ifp height -----lube all up and re-presurize with nitrogen .

    these suspensions on all of these bikes really gets a hard work out and they all die if not cared for.

    i get alot of fox , marzocci ,new lyric rock shox stuff all with bad stiction, leaks jammed controlls and so on just because of lack of care .

    these longer travel bikes are mini motorcycles ( without the motor of course ) ------and they need lots of care just like your racing MX bike does .

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