Results 1 to 39 of 39
  1. #1
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    2014 SJ FSR S-Works is 1x11?

    Did I read this right? The 2014 SJ FSR S-Works is 1x11?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    Why are you so surprised?

    I'd be surprised if it DID NOT have 1x11!
    I would be surprised if this is not the last year of the 26 in this line.
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: inkpad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,549
    Quote Originally Posted by Wherewolf View Post
    Did I read this right? The 2014 SJ FSR S-Works is 1x11?
    My wifes 2014 Stumpy Expert EVO came with SRAM XO 1x11, wicked bike too!

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. Lynch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    3,142
    I wish it came out that way in 2013! i had to build mine up to get what they offer stock now!
    13 SJ Evo, 14 Aurum, 14 Fatboy, 15 P.3

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,760
    Pretty excited about it. My wish was it would come with the SWAT stuff the Epic is getting.

    Wolf I enjoy your blog site. Keep it up bud.
    15 Yeti ASR-c
    14 Yeti ARC
    16 Bianchi Specialissima
    15 Echo Big Deal
    15 Roubaix S-Works

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    I wish it came out that way in 2013! i had to build mine up to get what they offer stock now!
    Isn't that always the case?

    You get the bike with mostly the stuff that you want but then have to cut 'n paste parts to get the bike to where it should be in the first place. Then the next model year has it right!

    All my bikes are now front der free . . . as all mtn bikes should be!
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  7. #7
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    Live in Kansas?

    You folks live in Kansas? I have 22 and 36 on my '12 SJ 29er and I use that 22 a lot. And I sometimes wish I had something bigger than 36 up front. My knees could not handle 1x11.


  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    You are in a different league . . . more goat than human!

    For that kind of oxygen starved punishment, 4.5 mph average up and down, you might be faster walking up! And you want faster gearing for the descends?

    What is your typical and max descend speed on the trail?
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: inkpad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,549
    Nope, Colorado

    I'm running 1x10, XX1 front ring, 32, 11-36 rear. All of our rides start at 6000ft +, climbs are not bad on my gearing, though I'm not riding 40+ miles on a regular basis as you have shown, though, if I rode our local 10 mile loop 4 times it would equal about 7800ft elevation gain

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,760
    Our 15 mile loop in Michigan 4 times would net us 9000. Not bad for lack of mountain.
    15 Yeti ASR-c
    14 Yeti ARC
    16 Bianchi Specialissima
    15 Echo Big Deal
    15 Roubaix S-Works

  11. #11
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    Slow

    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    What is your typical and max descend speed on the trail?
    I have poor balance and I don't go very fast downhill. But on flat and/or rolling terrain I sometimes wish I had a slightly bigger ring up front. My backup 29er has 34 up front and that is way too small.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. Lynch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    3,142
    I have a 30t front on my Enduro and even when ripping down trails at Whistler I dont feel the need for a bigger front ring. I run a 32t xx1 setup on my stumpjumper and I like it way better than the 24/36 combo my last trail bike had.
    13 SJ Evo, 14 Aurum, 14 Fatboy, 15 P.3

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    Quote Originally Posted by Wherewolf View Post
    I have poor balance and I don't go very fast downhill. But on flat and/or rolling terrain I sometimes wish I had a slightly bigger ring up front. My backup 29er has 34 up front and that is way too small.
    On my '12 SJ 29 EVO, run 1x10 with 28 XX1 ring. On bigger fire road climbs I do find it tough on some climbs pedaling a slower cadence than ideal for the steepness. A 1x11 would be better with the 42 in back.

    For the descends, ripping single track flat out, I never run out of gear.


    On the SW Epic 29, run 1x11 with 32t. I can still pedal on flat paved road up to 40 km/h and can hit 65 on descending steeper paved roads. Can't imagine going anywhere near that on mtn fire roads or single track. For a race with sustained steeper climbs, I'd swap the ring out for the 28t. That gives me all the range I can use.
    28t @ 42 = .666 ratio. 22t @ 36 = .611 ratio. Just a half cog difference.

    I suspect you like to pedal a slower cadence that the so called most efficient 90/min.
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    I have a 30t front on my Enduro and even when ripping down trails at Whistler I dont feel the need for a bigger front ring. I run a 32t xx1 setup on my stumpjumper and I like it way better than the 24/36 combo my last trail bike had.
    Agree.

    Rode Whistler Bike Park one day on the SJ 29 EVO and scared myself it was so fast! Flew to flat on so many jumps that I typically ride on the DH bike.
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  15. #15
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    My calculations

    My current 2x10 has 22&36 front and 11-36 back. If I calculate correctly that gives me a range of 0.611 to 3.27?
    On the 2014 it appears you can get either a 30 or 32 front with 10x42 back. So that would give ranges of 0.714 to 3.0 and 0.761 to 3.2? I'd be giving up quite a bit on both ends. With my bad knees I need a really low granny gear for climbing.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    Well the 1x11 is not for everyone. With those high elevation badass climbs you showed us earlier, you are probably best to stick to 2x10.

    Or, take one of those potions that Armstrong used!
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  17. #17
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    2x11?

    My LBS thinks I could just add a front derailleur and two chain rings and run a 2x1. Do you think think would be possible? Conversion to 2x10 would be a major expense since so many components would have to be switched.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. Lynch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    3,142
    2x11 wont work. The xx1 RD doesnt work right when you change the angle up front.

    I dont see any reason to "downgrade" to a 2x10. I will never go back to a 2x or 3x setup. We have some HUGE climbs (4k+ over 6-8 miles) out here and I had no issues with my 1x11. With a 32t up front you get nearly as low as the granny gear on a 2x10 setup (24t-36t) and if you need more you can go as low as a 28t front ring with xx1. For most rides I run a 34t ring, but when I have big climbs I switch to a 32t. You can go up or down 1 ring size and not need to adjust the chain.

    A buddy of mine has an s-works Enduro 29er and he set his bike up for a 30t ring, but will drop to a 28t for big climbs, and up it to a 32t if he needs a bit more top end for fast smooth trails. The SW SJ should come with a 34t and a 32T ring, so you will have options.
    13 SJ Evo, 14 Aurum, 14 Fatboy, 15 P.3

  19. #19
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    Not everybody is the same

    Not everybody is the same, in age, strength, fitness, knee health, etc. as you.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    2x11 wont work. The xx1 RD doesnt work right when you change the angle up front. . . . .
    I don't see why this wouldn't work.

    If the 2 rings are placed in the center of the chain line what is the issue? As well the 11 spd cassette is the same width as a 10 spd. When I examined the 1099 cassette next to the XX1, the cuts and ramps looked the same.

    Do you have a 2x that you can swap out and try? You don't need to install the front der and shifters for this test, just the 2 rings. Test the chain line under stress and shift the rear through all its gears. Then manually shift the front to the other ring and do the same test. If it works to your satisfaction, install the front der and shifter.
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  21. #21
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    S-Works

    I would be buying an S-Works, which is already pretty expensive. So I'd have to be sure the 2x11 conversion would work. Otherwise it would cost a lot to switch everything to a 2x10.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    You would also need to ensure that the model you would be getting has the front der mounts. The 2014 SW Epic World Cup for example, has no provision for a front der.

    With an SW on the table, the bike weight will be reduced as well. I suggest trying a bike with 1x11 before you go to all the trouble. You might find it works better than your knees thought possible!
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  23. #23
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992
    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    You would also need to ensure that the model you would be getting has the front der mounts..... I suggest trying a bike with 1x11 before you go to all the trouble. You might find it works better than your knees thought possible!
    Mounts are there. I'd try the 1x11 first but if it didn't work out I need to know how much converting to 2x10 would set me back. It appears you can get either a 30 or 32 up front. So below are the comparison between my current setup and for a 30 using Sheldon Brown's site. I use my granny gear a lot.


  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: WR304's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    4,793

    2014 SJ FSR S-Works is 1x11?

    With 1x11 it sounds like you'd need a 28 tooth front chainring (available for SRAM XX1), either by changing the S-Works crank spider or fitting a new chainset.

    http://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/pr...hain-rings-xx1

    That change gets you a bit closer to the 22x36 bottom gear of your current bike.

    With a 700x56 29er tyre the bottom gear 28x42 would be 4.6mph @80rpm, compared to the 22x36 which would be 4.2mph @ 80rpm

    With a 700x56 29er tyre the top gear 28x10 would be 19.4mph @80rpm, compared to the 36x11 which would be 22.7mph @80rpm

    http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html

    What you could also do to lower the gearing would be to fit narrower tyres. (29x2.1" instead of the stock 29x2.3" tyres) By fitting a narrower tyre with a smaller circumference it reduces the gearing further, which would give a slightly lower bottom gear for climbing.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    Front der, rings and shifter are the inexpensive parts. (I could send you the unused set from my 2012 SJ 29er EVO if you need. Same mounts as 2014 SW SJ.)

    Looks like the 2014 SW SJ's have the same cranks as my 2011 SW Epic cranks. If it does, I have the spider and all the parts you'll need. (2014's SW Epics have a new crank style and not sure if the spider is a different mount.)

    That was easy!
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    429
    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    I don't see why this wouldn't work.

    If the 2 rings are placed in the center of the chain line what is the issue? As well the 11 spd cassette is the same width as a 10 spd. When I examined the 1099 cassette next to the XX1, the cuts and ramps looked the same.

    Do you have a 2x that you can swap out and try? You don't need to install the front der and shifters for this test, just the 2 rings. Test the chain line under stress and shift the rear through all its gears. Then manually shift the front to the other ring and do the same test. If it works to your satisfaction, install the front der and shifter.
    Here is a detailed explanation of how it works and why it won't work with 2x (better from the horses mouth than me trying to explain ):

    Chris Hilton talks about the Sram XX1 // Mountain Biking Videos on MPORA

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    mbco1975 thanks for that.

    Check the video at the 12:00 min mark where Chris Hilton explains the nitty gritty why the XX1 rear der will not work with a 2x or 3x front der.

    Basically, the XX1 rear der top pulley is offset in such a way that when you shift the front to a smaller ring, the der will slam into the cassette . . . making for a bad day.

    . . . got mud on my face, a big disgrace . . . hum . . . hum . . .
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  28. #28
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    Thanks!

    Thanks! Well that settles it for sure.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    Quote Originally Posted by Wherewolf View Post
    Thanks! Well that settles it for sure.
    I sent you a PM. Cheers.
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: WR304's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    4,793
    Quote Originally Posted by Wherewolf View Post
    Not everybody is the same, in age, strength, fitness, knee health, etc. as you.
    Last weekday Tahoe ride

    Lake Tahoe, Nevada by wherewolf at Garmin Connect - Details

    I was trying to think what I'd do for gearing if I was lucky enough to be doing great rides like the ones you do.

    Here are some suggestions for improving the gearing on your current bike.

    First of all I'd get an ANT+ cadence sensor (Bontrager ones work with a Garmin Edge 800) to keep track of pedalling cadence on the long climbs. It can act as a warning to avoid grinding up hills and overloading your bad knees.

    Bontrager: ANT+ Digital Sensors (Model #09814)

    I'd then start looking at the gearing. If you're currently using 2x10 gearing with a 22/36 chainset and 11-36 cassette and finding bottom gear a struggle there are a few options to get an even lower bottom gear.

    You can get a KCNC 11-38 10 speed cassette which would give a lower bottom gear. The sprocket sizes are 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34-38

    KCNC 10 Speed Titanium Cassette, Shimano : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique

    The other option is to keep the 11-36 rear cassette and change the chainrings. An Action Tec 20 tooth front chainring giving a lower bottom gear than your current 22 tooth chainring.

    Action Tec Home Page

    If you were going to go down to a 20 tooth inner chainring I'd be inclined to go to a triple chainset for 3x10 gearing also, probably a Shimano triple chainset with just the inner ring replaced, resulting in 42/32/20 chainrings. By having a triple chainset you have the 20 tooth granny for big climbs, a 32 tooth chainring for riding on flatter terrain and then a 42 tooth chainring for winding it up on the long descents. It may not be fashionable to have a triple chainset nowadays but the wider high- low gearing range, plus increased mid range gear options still make a lot of sense for the riding that you're doing.

  31. #31
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992
    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Here are some suggestions for improving the gearing on your current bike.
    I'm happy with the gearing on my current bike: 22/36. That's why I'm leery of the 1x11 on the 2014's. CarManDSL has offered to swap his 2x10 setup should I be dissatisfied with the 1x11. So I may just try it.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: WR304's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    4,793

    2014 SJ FSR S-Works is 1x11?

    Couldn't you just buy a 2014 S-Works Stumpjumper FSR 29 frameset and spec it with your chosen components?

    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...r-fsr-29-frame

    That way there are no compromises as each part is exactly what you want to begin with.

    Along with the SRAM XX1 drivetrain the 2014 S-Works Stumpjumper FSR 29 complete bikes come with Formula T1 brakes (S-Works) or Avid X0 Trail brakes (S-Works Evo). Chances are you'd be looking at replacing the stock brakes with a complete bike also. For $9,000 USD the complete S-Works Evo 29 doesn't even come with a carbon handlebar either.

  33. #33
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    Re: 2014 SJ FSR S-Works is 1x11?

    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Couldn't you just buy a 2014 S-Works Stumpjumper FSR 29 frameset and spec it with your chosen components?
    Wouldn't that be super expensive?

    Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 2

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Znarf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,040
    If you buy an S-Works anyway that´s kind of "superexpensive" too.
    If you do a reasonable high-end build you shouldn´t be too far off from MSRP minus regular discount.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: WR304's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    4,793
    Quote Originally Posted by Wherewolf View Post
    Wouldn't that be super expensive?
    I did a quick spreadsheet to give an idea of what it would cost to build the S-Works Stumpjumper FSR 29 frame, based on the same overall expenditure as purchasing a full 2014 bike.

    This is using listed MSRP for all the Specialized parts, without any discounts applied, a Fox 34 CTD FIT 140mm travel fork with 15QR, Kashima coating and a tapered steerer (this can be spaced down to 130mm travel) and Shimano XTR parts for your 2x10 gearing. The only exception being the front derailleur as the SRAM X0 front derailleur is matched to a 36 tooth chainring for better shifting. Non Specialized components are from Jenson USA or Blue Sky Cycling. The US prices are current as at 28 September 2013. A Ritchey WCS C-260 Carbon Matrix stem and Thomson carbon handlebar provide a decent cockpit whilst you'd have whichever saddle you prefer.

    Jenson USA - Online mountain & road bike parts, clothing and accessories shop

    The Hottest Mountain Bike Parts, Accessories & Clothing at Discount Prices @ BlueSkyCycling.com

    I've put in Roval Control Trail SL 29 carbon wheels and a Specialized S-Works carbon chainset with 22/36 double chainrings as I wasn't sure what you'd choose. If it was my bike I'd go with different wheels built using www.light-bicycle.com wide carbon 29er rims which would work out significantly cheaper than the Rovals.

    For comparison the cost of a full SRAM XX1 groupset (including chainset) from Jenson USA is $1,288 USD. The XTR groupset and S-Works Carbon chainset that I've listed together come to $1,175 USD.

    Sram XX1 BB30 Build Kit > Components > Build Kits and Grouppos | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


    Last edited by WR304; 09-28-2013 at 09:21 AM.

  36. #36
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    I did a quick spreadsheet to give an idea of what it would cost to build the S-Works Stumpjumper FSR 29 frame
    Thanks, might nice of you to do that. Building a bike seems a better way to go but that would cost a lot more than one off the shelf.

  37. #37
    mtbr dismember
    Reputation: Wherewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,992

    1x11 is not for me

    While riding yesterday I kept track of my gears and tried to push higher than usual. I can't do it. I'm 64 years old, have two artificial knees, and despite having a Spinal Cord Simulator Implant turned way up, and taking codeine every thee hours, I am always experiencing knee pain. And on steep climbs it can become almost unbearable. My current granny gear 22x36 gives me 1.3 and going down one cog (22x32) gives me 1.4. I couldn't even use 1.4 on many of the climbs.

    The 1x11 granny is 1.5. However, that 42 cog is aluminum. My current bike came with an aluminum 36 and I wore it out in about two months. So I downgraded to an X9 cassette. So even if I could stand 1.5 I'd be replacing the 42 on the 1x11 so often it would cost a fortune. So case closed.

    Thanks for everybody's comments. I am going to have to consider either building a bike (which would be expensive), swapping out the 1x11 for a 2x10, or just hold off for a while. Or I could consider a SJ Expert. But once you ride an S-Works it is difficult to go back.


  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: WR304's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    4,793

    2014 SJ FSR S-Works is 1x11?

    Quote Originally Posted by Wherewolf View Post
    While riding yesterday I kept track of my gears and tried to push higher than usual. I can't do it. I'm 64 years old, have two artificial knees, and despite having a Spinal Cord Simulator Implant turned way up, and taking codeine every thee hours, I am always experiencing knee pain. And on steep climbs it can become almost unbearable. My current granny gear 22x36 gives me 1.3 and going down one cog (22x32) gives me 1.4. I couldn't even use 1.4 on many of the climbs.
    ...
    Thanks for everybody's comments. I am going to have to consider either building a bike (which would be expensive), swapping out the 1x11 for a 2x10, or just hold off for a while. Or I could consider a SJ Expert. But once you ride an S-Works it is difficult to go back.
    I think you're right about not going to 1x11. The bike has to work for what you want it to do.

    There are a couple of other points I'd like to make:

    Looking at your site it appears that you currently have a 2012 Specialized S-Works Stumpjumper FSR 29. This is the same frame as a 2014 Specialized S-Works Stumpjumper 29 FSR, same construction and same geometry. The difference being an internal dropper post routing and a different colour scheme. If you purchase a 2014 S-Works Stumpjumper FSR 29 you're literally buying what you already have, just with a fresh coat of paint and a 1x11 drivetrain that you don't want.

    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...bon29#geometry

    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...sr-29#geometry

    Specialized have a rolling program of updating their frame designs every few years so to me it would make more sense to wait until the 2015 model year bikes (launched next summer) when there should be an all new design for the Stumpjumper FSR.

    Replace the suspension pivot bearings in your current frame, have the rear shock and fork serviced and it should be good for a long time yet.

    The next point is gearing on your current bike. At some point you have to sit down and have a serious think about your knees, and how to minimise the strain on them whilst continuing to ride regularly in hilly terrain. Taking lots of codeine pills isn't ideal. If you're doing long climbs, stuck in your current bottom gear of 22x36 and physically unable to turn the next lowest gear of 22x32 then my suggestion of going to a 3x10 gearing setup would work better. It may not be fashionable but it is practical.

    The Sheldon Brown gearing chart below shows the difference between your current 2x10 gearing and 3x10 gearing (with a 20 tooth granny ring) when you're climbing. The gears are shown as the speed in mph that you would be doing in each gear whilst pedalling at 80rpm. I like that way of displaying gearing as it's easy to visualise.



    The main thing is that climbing on your current 22x36 bottom gear you only have that one gear available for the big hills. If you were to move to a 20 tooth granny ring with the same 11-36 cassette you would have two gears available when climbing big hills, one easier than currently to help your knees and one slightly harder for flatter sections, enabling you to stay in more of a comfortable rev range overall.

    By having a triple you still have the middle ring so you're not stuck with zero chain tension and zero speed on flatter terrain, helping the full suspension bike pedal a bit better than on the smallest sprocket. If you were to fit a 20 tooth chainring on your 2x10 setup there's a hole in the mid range gearing. You could do it but you'd be forever changing between front rings whilst riding.

    It's something to think about. I spent a lot of time considering different gear options for my new Epic 29er last year. With my destroyed left leg and rebuilt left knee I eventually decided to stay with a triple chainset to get up the climbs in relative comfort on the granny ring. That was easily the right decision.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarManDSL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    367
    WR304, that is some excellent info!

    I could also add to the options with Fair Wheels Bikes titanium cassette 11-38.
    Ti won't wear out like aluminum and this offers yet another gear in a 10spd cassette.

    KCNC 10 Speed Titanium Cassette, Shimano : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique

    This together with the 3x10 and 20t ring, the gearing goes to a whole new spin!
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

Similar Threads

  1. 2014 Specialized S-Works Trail Shoes Available?
    By aappling72 in forum Specialized
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-14-2013, 01:13 AM
  2. 2014 S-Works Singlespeed Frame
    By erichwic in forum Specialized
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-14-2013, 04:07 PM
  3. X0 1x11
    By Shalom in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 05-14-2013, 03:25 PM
  4. 2013 - S-Works Epic 29er - White - 1x11 - Info?
    By uzj100 in forum Specialized
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-01-2012, 09:10 PM
  5. 1x11
    By singlesprocket in forum Eastern Canada
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 07-04-2012, 08:54 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •