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  1. #201
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    Thanks for the info. Would you mind measure the the distance between the screw hole and the end of the protector piece?

    Do you have another link to S-Works graphic?

    Cheers
    Nawa

  2. #202
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    Google isn't your friend ?
    'Tentense...or Intenseman

  3. #203
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    Intenseman,

    OK found it!

    I've got to drill a hole on the guard, to minimized the mistake on drilling could you please share the distance between the edge of the guard and the hole?

    Cheers
    Nawa

  4. #204
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    Thanks. Looks good.

  5. #205
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    Im glad you guys shared/talked about that cf guard! I ordered one for my stumpy.
    13 SJ Evo, 14 Aurum, 14 Fatboy, 15 P.3

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by TANK01 View Post
    Intenseman,

    OK found it!

    I've got to drill a hole on the guard, to minimized the mistake on drilling could you please share the distance between the edge of the guard and the hole?

    Cheers
    Nawa
    En français dans le texte :

    Heuu , je pense que t'ai donné assez d'infos comme ça
    et de toute manière tous les sabots carbone ne sont pas à 100% identique...à toi donc de mesurer par toi même.


    Un peu d'initiative ne te fera pas de mal ,faut juste enlever les moufles et te sortir les doigts du c...


    P.S : Bon courage pour la traduction
    'Tentense...or Intenseman

  7. #207
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    ขอบใจมากสำหรับคำตอบ

    Quote Originally Posted by Intenseman View Post
    En français dans le texte :

    Heuu , je pense que t'ai donné assez d'infos comme ça
    et de toute manière tous les sabots carbone ne sont pas à 100% identique...à toi donc de mesurer par toi même.


    Un peu d'initiative ne te fera pas de mal ,faut juste enlever les moufles et te sortir les doigts du c...


    P.S : Bon courage pour la traduction

  8. #208
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    Did that CF Gaurd come with the S Works graphic, or was that something you added? The website doesn't show it, but it looks super pro.

  9. #209
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    The guard didn't come with the decor. Go to page 8, Intenseman was kind enough to share some instruction. You will have to drill the guard to fit it on the frame though.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by ids View Post
    Yeah, Unless you want to void your warranty, the stealth isn't an option. However Jagwire makes a hydro cable of a smaller diameter so if you switch that out for the regular reverb cable it fits perfectly. That's what I had to do.
    Very exciting!

    Can you tell me where I can find this hose, only 5mm on jagwire.com and the internal cabele routing allow 4,5mm

    My first post
    Last edited by Vaagen; 03-05-2013 at 06:57 AM.

  11. #211
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    Hi everyone I hope this is the correct section for my question... anyone knows the weight of the frames: s-works and the alloy frame(enduro comp)2013?

  12. #212
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    Up...
    Still no one???


    Quote Originally Posted by cubebiker View Post
    how many spacer did you guys need to install the xx1 crankset into the pf30 bb?
    I have three manuals and all say different things...

    And btw my frame came stock with a decent play in the front shock mount...
    Anybody else?

  13. #213
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    My Build: (26.6 lbs)
    Frame - 2013 Large S-Works Enduro (Cyan)
    Fork – 2013 FOX 34 Talas 160mm
    Bars - 2013 Easton Havoc Carbon (750mm)
    Stem - 2013 Easton Haven (55mm)
    Wheels - 2013 Easton Haven Carbon
    Cranks – SRAM XX1 (BB30)
    Chain – SRAM XX1
    Cassette – SRAM XX 11-36 (10 spd)
    Seat Post - 2013 KS LEV 150mm
    Brakes – Shimano XTR Race w/Fin Pads
    Rotors – Shimano ICE (F-180 R-160)
    RD – Shimano XTR Shadow Plus (mid cage)
    Shifter – Shimano XTR I-spec
    Cassette – SRAM XX 11-36 (10 spd)
    Tires – Bontrager XR4 TLR (F-2.35 R-2.2)
    Pedals – Crankbrothers Candy 3
    Grips – Renthal Lock-on (med compound)
    Saddle – Specialized Henge Pro (carbon rail)

    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-1.jpg2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-2.jpg2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-3.jpg2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-4.jpg2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-5.jpg

  14. #214
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    Nice ride man!!! Be careful te carbon rail saddle. My failed immediately on a g-out and put a nice rip in my jacket and pretty serious cut on my chest. Could har been worse had it not been winter with a couple layers. Otherwise, that is a badass ride. Digging the blue!!

  15. #215
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    Someone on here I thought had a problem with their drive side crank coming loose but cannot seem to track that thread down. Mine is doing the same thing. Can someone help me out and explain... SCRATCH THAT, I see it is just a 10mm hex. SOrry to bother lol
    Last edited by tsefreeflow; 03-09-2013 at 08:04 PM.
    Tie two birds together and though they have four wings, they cannot fly!

  16. #216
    ids
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimEG View Post
    Good question. I dont think it is possible without drilling the frame though. Would like to here if anyone else knows.

    Has anyone else tried a standard Reverb and then tried the internal routing where the Command Post cable went? I couldn't get the Reverb hose through the exit hole at the top. Too tight. Considering drilling it out a little bit. Had to tape the hose to the top tube. Not so clean of an install. Going to call Specialized first. Not a fan of the Command Post.

    Attachment 774732
    as an FYI, it's doable. I've seen pics of a guy with a reverb stealth on his 2013, he has no issues with it thus far. He was able to route it out the bottom of the TT/ST junction then just the regular internal routing from there. I'll try to link pics in another post. Thought you all would want to know.

  17. #217
    ids
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    hope this works

    http://www.dh-rangers.com/gallery/da...51216064_n.jpg

    All he did was widen the hole into the TT for the cable. I'm going to buy a stealth, and get a hydro kit from Jagwire, then try to get a 90˚ bend piece from goodridge, or someone in hydraulics and fit it to mine as well. Looks super clean.
    -Isaac

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by ids View Post
    as an FYI, it's doable. I've seen pics of a guy with a reverb stealth on his 2013, he has no issues with it thus far. He was able to route it out the bottom of the TT/ST junction then just the regular internal routing from there. I'll try to link pics in another post. Thought you all would want to know.
    Looking forward to the pics. Thanks.

  19. #219
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    Technically its not a S-Works, but here is a few pics of my Enduro Expert Carbon...





    I went full XX1 on the drivetrain. I've upgraded the wheelset to the Roval Carbon Traverse Sl's, changed out the shock for the CC DBAir, and also added the KS Lev post. I have several more upgrades planned.

  20. #220
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    Oh yeah, with pedals as pictured, it weighs in at 26.5lbs.

  21. #221
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    Finally got around to taking some photos.

    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-a1.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-a2.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-a3.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-a4.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-a5.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-a6.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-a7.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-a8.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-a9.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-b1.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-b2.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-b3.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-b4.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-b5.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-b6.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-b7.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-b8.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-b9.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-c1.jpg
    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-c2.jpg

  22. #222
    g_k
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    Quote Originally Posted by ids View Post

    All he did was widen the hole into the TT for the cable. I'm going to buy a stealth, and get a hydro kit from Jagwire, then try to get a 90˚ bend piece from goodridge, or someone in hydraulics and fit it to mine as well. Looks super clean.
    -Isaac
    And while looking for a way to route, that'S what came out of his shiny S-Works frame:

    http://www.dh-rangers.com/gallery/da...51216064_n.jpg

    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread-p1100975-specialized-enduro-s-works-muell-w1200.jpg

  23. #223
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    WHAT?

    Looking for some detailed photos of the Stealth installation.

  24. #224
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    What is that????? We're did it come from????


    Quote Originally Posted by g_k View Post
    And while looking for a way to route, that'S what came out of his shiny S-Works frame:

    http://www.dh-rangers.com/gallery/da...51216064_n.jpg

    Click image for larger version. 

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  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by ski1970 View Post
    What is that????? We're did it come from????

    This is from production and can be found in every carbon frame because it is very hard to get rid of this prod waste.

    But I'd like to come back to my question:
    S-Works combined with XX1, how many spacers do you guys have with your crank drive side?

  26. #226
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    Hi all, just wanting to get an idea of what settings everyone is using for their DB Air. I'm about 85kg (187lbs) with gear, and running 120psi for 30% sag (19mm). Just running the Cane Creek base tune at the moment, but will be looking to tune it a bit more in the bike park next week.

    Initial impressions are the base tune needs perhaps a little less low speed rebound, and a little less low speed compression. Will report back with a bit more riding.

    Cheers,

    G.

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubebiker View Post
    How many Spacer did you guys need to install the XX1 Crankset into the PF30 BB?
    I have three manuals and all say different things...

    And btw my frame came stock with a decent play in the front shock mount...
    Anybody else?

    Not by the bike, but I believe it's the one thick spacer on the drive side. I'll do me check when I get home.

  28. #228
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    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by funkateer44 View Post
    Hi all, just wanting to get an idea of what settings everyone is using for their DB Air. I'm about 85kg (187lbs) with gear, and running 120psi for 30% sag (19mm). Just running the Cane Creek base tune at the moment, but will be looking to tune it a bit more in the bike park next week.

    Initial impressions are the base tune needs perhaps a little less low speed rebound, and a little less low speed compression. Will report back with a bit more riding.

    Cheers,

    G.
    I weigh 205 geared up and run 140psi to get 19mm sag. From the base tune I'm running an extra 1/4 turn on hsc and 1 less click on lsr. So far so good. Only had it for a week and its very different from the nomad I'm coming from (in a good way)

  29. #229
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    I have only had my bike built up for a couple of weeks now. I am used to riding more xcish machines. I added another click or two to the LSC setting and backed off on the rebound a click. I am running 165psi to achieve the 19mm of sag.

  30. #230
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    I still experience heavy bob when pedaling even when HSR and HSC are fully closed... Might be because of the 28t chainring??? Sag is properly set...

  31. #231
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    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cubebiker View Post
    I still experience heavy bob when pedaling even when HSR and HSC are fully closed... Might be because of the 28t chainring??? Sag is properly set...
    Hsr and hsc have nothing to do with pedal bob. Pedal bob is a low speed event, so Lsc will effect it the most. Put it back to the recommended settings and flip the lever to add 4 clicks lsc. I have almost no pedal bob at all on mine with a 32t chainring and rarely use the lever because of it.

  32. #232
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    Do you guys have your front sag set too? Here is a good article from bikeradar for setting sag on any bike. I get no bob when my sag is set properly, make sure you have your shocks/forks in open setting when you set your sag.

    Workshop: Setting Up Mountain Bike Suspension - BikeRadar

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker831 View Post
    Hsr and hsc have nothing to do with pedal bob. Pedal bob is a low speed event, so Lsc will effect it the most. Put it back to the recommended settings and flip the lever to add 4 clicks lsc. I have almost no pedal bob at all on mine with a 32t chainring and rarely use the lever because of it.

    Sorry I mixed that up. I was actually talking about LSC and LSR...

  34. #234
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    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cubebiker View Post
    Sorry I mixed that up. I was actually talking about LSC and LSR...
    What do you weigh and what psi are you running? What kind of bike are you coming from?

  35. #235
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    220lbs and running around 160 PSI. Have exactly 19mm Sag with this. I am coming from an Intense Tracer and Yeti SB 66.

  36. #236
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    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cubebiker View Post
    220lbs and running around 160 PSI. Have exactly 19mm Sag with this. I am coming from an Intense Tracer and Yeti SB 66.
    Weird. And you are counting clicks from full open? (Counterclockwise is open) do they stop of keep spinning?

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker831 View Post
    Weird. And you are counting clicks from full open? (Counterclockwise is open) do they stop of keep spinning?
    Yes I am counting from fully open. Never tried if the knobs would stop spinning. Would it make any difference?

  38. #238
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    When you purchase the BB you will get a few spacers, non of which are necessary. When you buy the crank it will come with 1 large spacer, run that on the drive side and you're off to the races. This is not counting the SRAM branded seal dust caps that go on each side of the BB bearings.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by james_95 View Post
    When you purchase the BB you will get a few spacers, non of which are necessary. When you buy the crank it will come with 1 large spacer, run that on the drive side and you're off to the races. This is not counting the SRAM branded seal dust caps that go on each side of the BB bearings.
    Thank you, that is how I did it. Strange that my non drive side thing that you turn towards the frame just does not touch the frame...

  40. #240
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    Does any one know what is is when I compress my rear suspension there seem to be a sticking point and then compresses more? I guess maybe like a bump or a friction point. It does not stop the compression but I defiantly feel something. I have never even ridden the bike yet. Does the shock just need to break in? Any advise would be great. Thanks

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by ski1970 View Post
    Does any one know what is is when I compress my rear suspension there seem to be a sticking point and then compresses more? I guess maybe like a bump or a friction point. It does not stop the compression but I defiantly feel something. I have never even ridden the bike yet. Does the shock just need to break in? Any advise would be great. Thanks
    Nothing to worry about
    Just the posative and negative air equalising

  42. #242
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    or it might be the clutch style deraileur. Roll the cage forward so there is no tension on the chain and cycle the suspension. I had the same thing going on and it made me nuts thinking it was the bike, but it was just a slight clunk in the movement of the rear der.
    Have a nice ride!

  43. #243
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    It's the XX1 RD. Both my SJ Evo with XX1 and my buddies Enduro S-works have the same noise feel. It seems like it is a common issue with the SRAM type 2 RD.
    13 SJ Evo, 14 Aurum, 14 Fatboy, 15 P.3

  44. #244
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    Do not think it is the rear mech or any drive train issue.

    I am not even sitting on the bike when it does this or rollong the bike. It happens just by pushing doen on top the seat or bouncing my upper body weight on the bike. Rear Mech does not even move...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    It's the XX1 RD. Both my SJ Evo with XX1 and my buddies Enduro S-works have the same noise feel. It seems like it is a common issue with the SRAM type 2 RD.

  45. #245
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    there is no noise what so ever. Just a sticktion feel not huge but just on the 1st maybe 10mm of the push then it goes on to more travel as normal. I am standing and pushing down with my upper body on the seat.

  46. #246
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    try pushing the arm on the RD forward. There is some tension before the clutch releases. When the suspension starts to move there is a slight amount of chain growth and it has an almost sticky feeling until the clutch releases. I notice it in the garage or on the street, but you dont feel it on the trail very often if at all.

    Your pivots could also need the be greased or the shock just needs to be broke in and the seals are a little dry.
    13 SJ Evo, 14 Aurum, 14 Fatboy, 15 P.3

  47. #247
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    Still has the sticktion

    I help the rear cage all the way FWD so the chain was just hanging basicly, it still did it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    try pushing the arm on the RD forward. There is some tension before the clutch releases. When the suspension starts to move there is a slight amount of chain growth and it has an almost sticky feeling until the clutch releases. I notice it in the garage or on the street, but you dont feel it on the trail very often if at all.

    Your pivots could also need the be greased or the shock just needs to be broke in and the seals are a little dry.

  48. #248
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    It's the negative air spring. Don't worry about it, you'll never notice while riding since you'll sag the shock past that part of the travel.

  49. #249
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    New S-works owner here. Bike is not quite dialed yet but getting there. I was curious if anyone knows about a shock shuttle that is available for purchase to drop the BB down a bit. Thanks in advance.

  50. #250
    the refurbished one
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    Quote Originally Posted by james_95 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    blue beats them all!
    nice ride!
    Sokrates is dead, Galilei is dead, Newton is dead, Einstein is dead, Pantani is dead and i am feeling sick too.

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