Page 10 of 16 FirstFirst ... 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 ... LastLast
Results 226 to 250 of 384
  1. #226
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    14
    Hi all, just wanting to get an idea of what settings everyone is using for their DB Air. I'm about 85kg (187lbs) with gear, and running 120psi for 30% sag (19mm). Just running the Cane Creek base tune at the moment, but will be looking to tune it a bit more in the bike park next week.

    Initial impressions are the base tune needs perhaps a little less low speed rebound, and a little less low speed compression. Will report back with a bit more riding.

    Cheers,

    G.

  2. #227
    aka...appBLING72
    Reputation: aappling72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    918
    Quote Originally Posted by cubebiker View Post
    How many Spacer did you guys need to install the XX1 Crankset into the PF30 BB?
    I have three manuals and all say different things...

    And btw my frame came stock with a decent play in the front shock mount...
    Anybody else?

    Not by the bike, but I believe it's the one thick spacer on the drive side. I'll do me check when I get home.

  3. #228
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    174

    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by funkateer44 View Post
    Hi all, just wanting to get an idea of what settings everyone is using for their DB Air. I'm about 85kg (187lbs) with gear, and running 120psi for 30% sag (19mm). Just running the Cane Creek base tune at the moment, but will be looking to tune it a bit more in the bike park next week.

    Initial impressions are the base tune needs perhaps a little less low speed rebound, and a little less low speed compression. Will report back with a bit more riding.

    Cheers,

    G.
    I weigh 205 geared up and run 140psi to get 19mm sag. From the base tune I'm running an extra 1/4 turn on hsc and 1 less click on lsr. So far so good. Only had it for a week and its very different from the nomad I'm coming from (in a good way)

  4. #229
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    158
    I have only had my bike built up for a couple of weeks now. I am used to riding more xcish machines. I added another click or two to the LSC setting and backed off on the rebound a click. I am running 165psi to achieve the 19mm of sag.

  5. #230
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    86
    I still experience heavy bob when pedaling even when HSR and HSC are fully closed... Might be because of the 28t chainring??? Sag is properly set...

  6. #231
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    174

    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cubebiker View Post
    I still experience heavy bob when pedaling even when HSR and HSC are fully closed... Might be because of the 28t chainring??? Sag is properly set...
    Hsr and hsc have nothing to do with pedal bob. Pedal bob is a low speed event, so Lsc will effect it the most. Put it back to the recommended settings and flip the lever to add 4 clicks lsc. I have almost no pedal bob at all on mine with a 32t chainring and rarely use the lever because of it.

  7. #232
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    862
    Do you guys have your front sag set too? Here is a good article from bikeradar for setting sag on any bike. I get no bob when my sag is set properly, make sure you have your shocks/forks in open setting when you set your sag.

    Workshop: Setting Up Mountain Bike Suspension - BikeRadar

  8. #233
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker831 View Post
    Hsr and hsc have nothing to do with pedal bob. Pedal bob is a low speed event, so Lsc will effect it the most. Put it back to the recommended settings and flip the lever to add 4 clicks lsc. I have almost no pedal bob at all on mine with a 32t chainring and rarely use the lever because of it.

    Sorry I mixed that up. I was actually talking about LSC and LSR...

  9. #234
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    174

    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cubebiker View Post
    Sorry I mixed that up. I was actually talking about LSC and LSR...
    What do you weigh and what psi are you running? What kind of bike are you coming from?

  10. #235
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    86
    220lbs and running around 160 PSI. Have exactly 19mm Sag with this. I am coming from an Intense Tracer and Yeti SB 66.

  11. #236
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    174

    2013 S-Works Enduro Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cubebiker View Post
    220lbs and running around 160 PSI. Have exactly 19mm Sag with this. I am coming from an Intense Tracer and Yeti SB 66.
    Weird. And you are counting clicks from full open? (Counterclockwise is open) do they stop of keep spinning?

  12. #237
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker831 View Post
    Weird. And you are counting clicks from full open? (Counterclockwise is open) do they stop of keep spinning?
    Yes I am counting from fully open. Never tried if the knobs would stop spinning. Would it make any difference?

  13. #238
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    82
    When you purchase the BB you will get a few spacers, non of which are necessary. When you buy the crank it will come with 1 large spacer, run that on the drive side and you're off to the races. This is not counting the SRAM branded seal dust caps that go on each side of the BB bearings.

  14. #239
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by james_95 View Post
    When you purchase the BB you will get a few spacers, non of which are necessary. When you buy the crank it will come with 1 large spacer, run that on the drive side and you're off to the races. This is not counting the SRAM branded seal dust caps that go on each side of the BB bearings.
    Thank you, that is how I did it. Strange that my non drive side thing that you turn towards the frame just does not touch the frame...

  15. #240
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    85
    Does any one know what is is when I compress my rear suspension there seem to be a sticking point and then compresses more? I guess maybe like a bump or a friction point. It does not stop the compression but I defiantly feel something. I have never even ridden the bike yet. Does the shock just need to break in? Any advise would be great. Thanks

  16. #241
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by ski1970 View Post
    Does any one know what is is when I compress my rear suspension there seem to be a sticking point and then compresses more? I guess maybe like a bump or a friction point. It does not stop the compression but I defiantly feel something. I have never even ridden the bike yet. Does the shock just need to break in? Any advise would be great. Thanks
    Nothing to worry about
    Just the posative and negative air equalising

  17. #242
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NoShirt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    174
    or it might be the clutch style deraileur. Roll the cage forward so there is no tension on the chain and cycle the suspension. I had the same thing going on and it made me nuts thinking it was the bike, but it was just a slight clunk in the movement of the rear der.
    Have a nice ride!

  18. #243
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. Lynch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    2,316
    It's the XX1 RD. Both my SJ Evo with XX1 and my buddies Enduro S-works have the same noise feel. It seems like it is a common issue with the SRAM type 2 RD.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
    2014 Fatboy

  19. #244
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    85

    Do not think it is the rear mech or any drive train issue.

    I am not even sitting on the bike when it does this or rollong the bike. It happens just by pushing doen on top the seat or bouncing my upper body weight on the bike. Rear Mech does not even move...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    It's the XX1 RD. Both my SJ Evo with XX1 and my buddies Enduro S-works have the same noise feel. It seems like it is a common issue with the SRAM type 2 RD.

  20. #245
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    85
    there is no noise what so ever. Just a sticktion feel not huge but just on the 1st maybe 10mm of the push then it goes on to more travel as normal. I am standing and pushing down with my upper body on the seat.

  21. #246
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. Lynch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    2,316
    try pushing the arm on the RD forward. There is some tension before the clutch releases. When the suspension starts to move there is a slight amount of chain growth and it has an almost sticky feeling until the clutch releases. I notice it in the garage or on the street, but you dont feel it on the trail very often if at all.

    Your pivots could also need the be greased or the shock just needs to be broke in and the seals are a little dry.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
    2014 Fatboy

  22. #247
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    85

    Still has the sticktion

    I help the rear cage all the way FWD so the chain was just hanging basicly, it still did it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    try pushing the arm on the RD forward. There is some tension before the clutch releases. When the suspension starts to move there is a slight amount of chain growth and it has an almost sticky feeling until the clutch releases. I notice it in the garage or on the street, but you dont feel it on the trail very often if at all.

    Your pivots could also need the be greased or the shock just needs to be broke in and the seals are a little dry.

  23. #248
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    41
    It's the negative air spring. Don't worry about it, you'll never notice while riding since you'll sag the shock past that part of the travel.

  24. #249
    Ride Hard. Go Fast.
    Reputation: OldschoolBMXer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    238
    New S-works owner here. Bike is not quite dialed yet but getting there. I was curious if anyone knows about a shock shuttle that is available for purchase to drop the BB down a bit. Thanks in advance.

  25. #250
    the refurbished one
    Reputation: hball's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by james_95 View Post

    blue beats them all!
    nice ride!
    Sokrates is dead, Galilei is dead, Newton is dead, Einstein is dead, Pantani is dead and i am feeling sick too.

Page 10 of 16 FirstFirst ... 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •