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  1. #201
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    How are the Arch EX working for you? Are you also running your tires tubeless?

  2. #202
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    Good job! Carbon fiber bars?

    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Here are a few pics of my 2012 Specialized Epic Expert 29er.
    Bars are Bontrager Satellite trekking aero bars with Specialized BG contour grips. The saddle is a Specialized Romin expert 143mm with a Thomson Elite seatpost as they're reliable. Pedals are Shimano XTR M985 Trail.
    That bar is really cool looking, do you expect long longevity from it? I heard that carbon fiber products have a limited amount of life.

    Thanks.

  3. #203
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    Dirty Epic

    Here's mine after racing at Sea Otter yesterday:


    The bike was perfect for that course. It certainly was part of why I had my best-ever results at SOC.

  4. #204
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    ^^Nice. I'm going to be in Monterey in a few weeks and look forward to riding the course Any details about it would be much appreciated.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2TurnersNotEnough View Post
    Here's mine after racing at Sea Otter yesterday:


    The bike was perfect for that course. It certainly was part of why I had my best-ever results at SOC.
    Congrats to you !!!

  6. #206
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    I just bought a 2012 Epic Comp Carbon last week and I've put about 50mi on it so far. Just a couple issues that I'm wondering about:

    Is this amount of clearance from the top chainring to the swingarm normal? It looks close as hell and I've never bashed the chainring on anything.


    Is seeping of oil(?) out of the brain normal? Never drips or anything but still.


    Not worth posting pictures of the full bike, it's stock.

  7. #207
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    Not much to say, other than the first half of the course has a lot less climbing than the second half. The trails are in pretty good shape, but after 3 days and a few thousand riders, there are a few sections that are blown out. I really like riding that course. It's nice to get 20 miles in as a point-to-point, rather than the hamster wheel courses.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    My problem is more that the Rock Shox Sid 29 brain fork is noisy in use (the brain rattles all the time), flexy and doesn't track that well. I weigh 149lb approx and still have noticeable issues with it. I can see why a heavier rider would be even more unhappy with this fork.
    Specialized has made new Brain Cartridges, available since end of february - however, they decided no to do a recall or anything. You (yes, the customer) has to talk to the dailer, so he can get a replacement brain from Specialized.

    My friend had his Reba 2011 and SID 2012 cartridge replaced, gone is the noise. And we have checked, I can assure you. Performance seems to be about the same though.

    I have a Fox F29 Terralogic 2012 on my S-Works Epic as I was fed up with the Brain fork cartridge. The Fox pairs very well with the rear Fox shock. Performance is top notch - the fork uses about 92mm of travel on big hits and is noticeably smoother on the small stuff than the Rock Shox brain equiped forks.

  9. #209
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    Here's my brand new Epic Expert, size XL. Swapped to XTR shifters, rear deraillur and brakes. I think a new lighter seat post and tubeless conversion will be my next upgrade. Depending on how I find the Spez saddle I may fit my old Aliante. Only been out for a couples of rides, but whooa what a ride!





    The smart stem shim was a cool and clever thing. I like.


    The stock Formula brake levers didn't fit that good together with the XTR shifters so I decided to also run with XTR brakes.


    I've always liked the Shimano pedals so fitting the XTR pedals was an obvious choice for me.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vesrah View Post
    I just bought a 2012 Epic Comp Carbon last week and I've put about 50mi on it so far. Just a couple issues that I'm wondering about:

    Is this amount of clearance from the top chainring to the swingarm normal? It looks close as hell and I've never bashed the chainring on anything.


    Is seeping of oil(?) out of the brain normal? Never drips or anything but still.


    Not worth posting pictures of the full bike, it's stock.
    That clearance seems ok,are you sure it was not some hard chain slap or something ?That oil leak from the Brain is normal I guess,it happened on both of my Brains and curiously when it stopped on my Stumpy FSR one it started to work properly.
    On my Epic Expert 29 (same year as yours,so same Brain kit) there is a very tiny barely there film of oil leak that gets noticeable mostly when I ride on very dry terrain for at least 3 rides.
    By looking at your bike it's either you ride in a very dry environment( desert ?) or you haven't washed the bike that much between rides..
    Last edited by Devastazione; 04-25-2012 at 04:58 AM.

  11. #211
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    Chainsuck

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Abber View Post
    That bar is really cool looking, do you expect long longevity from it? I heard that carbon fiber products have a limited amount of life.

    Thanks.
    Carbon fibre handlebars normally last for quite a long time. Unless you manage to overtighten the stem clamp like I did. User error which killed the bars. The popping and cracking from the carbon fibre bar when it failed was quite impressive.

    I'm using my Ritchey Superlogic 10D carbon flat bars instead now.

    2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread


    Quote Originally Posted by Vesrah
    Is seeping of oil(?) out of the brain normal? Never drips or anything but still.
    Oil leaking from the brain isn't normal. It's probably a sign that the brain isn't tightened fully. It needs to be fixed under warranty by Specialized.

    Quote Originally Posted by madskatingcow
    Specialized has made new Brain Cartridges, available since end of february - however, they decided no to do a recall or anything. You (yes, the customer) has to talk to the dailer, so he can get a replacement brain from Specialized.

    My friend had his Reba 2011 and SID 2012 cartridge replaced, gone is the noise. And we have checked, I can assure you. Performance seems to be about the same though.
    Were his brain cartridges replaced for free under warranty?

    Specialized UK are saying that the quieter brain update only comes as part of the £160 S-Tune service and that they won't be offering it as a free fix. PeteN was told that and I was told the same thing too.

    Quote Originally Posted by -freddan-
    I've always liked the Shimano pedals so fitting the XTR pedals was an obvious choice for me.
    The previous Shimano XTR M970 pedals were very good. I've had nothing but trouble with the current model Shimano XTR M980 and M985 pedals though. My third warranty set has just gone wrong as well. On two sets the pedal seals got pulled out of the pedals. On the other set one of the pedals developed lots of play in the bearings.

    Pictured below: The seal on my right hand Shimano XTR M980 pedal has been pulled out from inside the pedal after just a few weeks riding.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-xtr_m980_bearing_seal.jpg  


  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    I've had nothing but trouble with the current model Shimano XTR M980 and M985 pedals though. My third warranty set has just gone wrong as well. On two sets the pedal seals got pulled out of the pedals. On the other set one of the pedals developed lots of play in the bearings.

    Pictured below: The seal on my right hand Shimano XTR M980 pedal has been pulled out from inside the pedal after just a few weeks riding.
    +1, went through a few warrantied sets as well, a seal came out of everyone. Now I've got eggbeaters, I like the release over the XTR's. However at times I struggle to clip in which I never did with XTR.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Were his brain cartridges replaced for free under warranty?

    Specialized UK are saying that the quieter brain update only comes as part of the £160 S-Tune service and that they won't be offering it as a free fix. PeteN was told that and I was told the same thing too.
    Yup, two times for free - but you have to ask yourself. Specialized doesn't tell any customers about the update. Who doesn't complain or accepts the rattle, is one less cartridge for them to swap. It's all about $$. It doesn't affect the function of the fork is their philosophy. A bike that costs as much as a small car should get top service. If there is a rattle on the car, it won't affect functionality either, but the same people telling you now it doesn't affect functionality would be the first to have their car fixed.

    My friend had his cartridge swapped by Specialized Europe (Netherlands). Don't let them fool you that you have to pay, you have not. It's a design flaw, period.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    The previous Shimano XTR M970 pedals were very good. I've had nothing but trouble with the current model Shimano XTR M980 and M985 pedals though. My third warranty set has just gone wrong as well. On two sets the pedal seals got pulled out of the pedals. On the other set one of the pedals developed lots of play in the bearings.

    Pictured below: The seal on my right hand Shimano XTR M980 pedal has been pulled out from inside the pedal after just a few weeks riding.
    Ouch, I better pay attention to my pedals then. To bad Shimano dont hold up to their previous quality level.
    My 7-year old 959 pedals are still running super smooth and my even older 535 from -99 are still working perfect on my winter bike, though the seals have disappeared since long time ago. But they don't seem to care.

  16. #216
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    Frame up build

    She's heavy but really lovin this bike!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-ho-chi-epic.jpg  


  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    The previous Shimano XTR M970 pedals were very good. I've had nothing but trouble with the current model Shimano XTR M980 and M985 pedals though. My third warranty set has just gone wrong as well. On two sets the pedal seals got pulled out of the pedals. On the other set one of the pedals developed lots of play in the bearings.

    Pictured below: The seal on my right hand Shimano XTR M980 pedal has been pulled out from inside the pedal after just a few weeks riding.
    I'm surprised you have had so many issues. I currently have a set of M970s and M980s I've had the seals pop out of both within a few weeks. usually just clean the grease, and push it back in and from that point not much of an issue. I did get some play develop in the M970s and I was going to try to warranty them, but just decided to take them apart, and tighten down the jam nuts just enough to kill the play. Took a few iterations to get it perfect but they are great now. I haven't had really any issues M980s but I usually take both sets apart every 6-12 months and clean out the old grease, fill it with new grease then push the bearings/shaft in. Which shoots grease and the seal out the back, then clean the excess out and push the seal back in and your good to go.
    My biggest complaint on the M970s is the area where the shoe tread hits the pedal. once the paint/anodizing went away my s-works shoes would rub and make a ton of noise.
    S-Works all the bikes!
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  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    She's heavy but really lovin this bike!
    What does it weigh? Changing my HT to an epic and it will be similar to you setup.
    S-Works all the bikes!
    Just another used cat for sale

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshS View Post
    What does it weigh? Changing my HT to an epic and it will be similar to you setup.
    About 26.5 when I get the seatpost changed. Not much room to go lower at least for my riding style and weight.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vesrah View Post
    Is this amount of clearance from the top chainring to the swingarm normal? It looks close as hell and I've never bashed the chainring on anything.
    Seems very narrow.. I've got 7-8mm between the chainstay and sprocket.


  21. #221
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    Nice racing 2Turners. How did your time compare to previous efforts? Place is dependant on others, of course. It looks like the course was not a complete mud bath as it has been some years. I've raced Sea Otter a half dozen times but have missed it the last two years. The course is always an "adventure" though the sand bothers the 29er much less. My class 2 50-54 race always bottlenecks in places and one is forced to be patient on tight singletrack adn switchbacks. But the last eight miles or so opens up and you can catch a lot of folks who went out too hard. I can't wait to race it again with my 24 pound XL Epic Expert. Yahoo!
    Tall Mountain Biker
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  22. #222
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    Soon to be trading in my Stumpy(26) for either the Epic Comp 29er or Comp carbon 29er money depending on the the second choice. Need a recommendation from members here on which size to get either M or L. Height 5'11, 32' inseam, M frame on the Stumpy(26) with 760mm bars and 75mm stem. My LBS had a medium Epic Comp 29er demo in store till it was stolen so I'm coming here for advice. Thanks, Hutch.
    Yip yip yip nope nope nope

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by tallmtnbiker View Post
    Nice racing 2Turners. How did your time compare to previous efforts? Place is dependant on others, of course. It looks like the course was not a complete mud bath as it has been some years. I've raced Sea Otter a half dozen times but have missed it the last two years. The course is always an "adventure" though the sand bothers the 29er much less. My class 2 50-54 race always bottlenecks in places and one is forced to be patient on tight singletrack adn switchbacks. But the last eight miles or so opens up and you can catch a lot of folks who went out too hard. I can't wait to race it again with my 24 pound XL Epic Expert. Yahoo!
    Thanks. My time was waaaay (>15 minutes) better than the last time I raced (2008). Trails were in pretty good shape, with no mud, which helped. Though the thick fog made things interesting. I also think part of the credit goes to the bike. A 23.5 pound bike that pedals well, yet doesn't beat you up in the bumps, helped me have something left in the tank for the climbing at the end. And lastly, making the investment in the new XC bike and signing up for the race in December gave me a lot of motivation to get out there and ride, even when I didn't feel like it.

    As far as the race goes, I raced cat. 2 clydesdale. It made it interesting because you start behind every other men's class. So I spent a fair bit of time trying to get around other riders, rather than being the guy who's just trying to survive the race (for a change). It was the first time in a long time where I had enough extra gas to go off trail to get around people on the singletrack. All-in-all I was very happy with the outcome. Now I hope I can get my legs back to race the Santa Ynez Valley Classic this weekend.

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch3637 View Post
    Soon to be trading in my Stumpy(26) for either the Epic Comp 29er or Comp carbon 29er money depending on the the second choice. Need a recommendation from members here on which size to get either M or L. Height 5'11, 32' inseam, M frame on the Stumpy(26) with 760mm bars and 75mm stem. My LBS had a medium Epic Comp 29er demo in store till it was stolen so I'm coming here for advice. Thanks, Hutch.
    I'm your height and I have a large and it fits me perfectly..
    If you can go for the carbon, do it, you wont regret it...

    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

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    ^^^ Thanks for the advice. Just got done reading the 90mm stem thread as well so it was good to see others riding a large at our height.
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  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    About 26.5 when I get the seatpost changed. Not much room to go lower at least for my riding style and weight.
    Thanks, From my estimates that is about what I am looking at. I have some room to play with tires, but oh well. The HT I have comes in at ~23, so I am hoping the extra weight won't be too noticeable since it is ridden in the MTN's. But I decided I need to put a few more robust components on the bike.
    What rims are you running?
    S-Works all the bikes!
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  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshS View Post
    Thanks, From my estimates that is about what I am looking at. I have some room to play with tires, but oh well. The HT I have comes in at ~23, so I am hoping the extra weight won't be too noticeable since it is ridden in the MTN's. But I decided I need to put a few more robust components on the bike.
    What rims are you running?
    Arch rims with I9 xc hubs. I just lost my Rocket Ron so the Ralph will go back on so I can add on another 80 grams.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Arch rims with I9 xc hubs. I just lost my Rocket Ron so the Ralph will go back on so I can add on another 80 grams.
    Got it, I have crest rims with Rocket Ron/Racing Ralph, but I have a set of Arch EX rims on order and I'm thinking I should go with a little more aggressive tread. Just not too sure how they will perform in deep/loose stuff.
    S-Works all the bikes!
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  29. #229
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    I finally have my Epic Expert. Awesome ride.
    Anyway here is a before and after first ride.
    " width="549">
    " width="549">

  30. #230
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    hutch if money is a bit of an issue, epic comp with lighter wheels and some other lighter parts still comes in cheaper and close to the weight of the carbon version.

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch3637 View Post
    ^^^ Thanks for the advice. Just got done reading the 90mm stem thread as well so it was good to see others riding a large at our height.
    +1 on "north_of_us" in reference to weight issues ... I have a carbon and there is a difference to the ride between the both bikes. The carbon frame is a bit stiffer and has a different feel to the bike, I prefer the feel of the carbon frame .

    If you go with the carbon and don't plan on spending more money in the future for a new set of wheels, then I could see why the Epic Comp makes better sense. If you have an opprtunity to buy the carbon, the next natural step would be a lighter set of wheels. At that point you'll have the best of both worlds. If the carbon issue isn't important or it doesn't make financial sense to you, then for the same price of the carbon bike, as "north_of_us" stated, you can get the Epic Comp with a really good set of wheels and you'll be rockin !!!
    Either way you go, you win

    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  32. #232
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    ^^^ Again thanks for the advice. After looking into this for awhile even before I posted the question I was looking at one other bike which isn't Specialized but my LBS carries them. In the end after talking to the manager and other spots on the forum as well as doing way more reading this past month then I should, I'm going with the other bike. One cause i'm getting the other bike for a great deal with my trade in and the other brand fits me better overall. Thank you for the help though. - Hutch
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  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post
    +1 on "north_of_us" in reference to weight issues ... I have a carbon and there is a difference to the ride between the both bikes. The carbon frame is a bit stiffer and has a different feel to the bike, I prefer the feel of the carbon frame .
    Can you describe this different feeling?

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR2ebike View Post
    Can you describe this different feeling?
    Best way I can describe the feeling, is the lack of vibrations that I don't feel on my carbon frame that I felt on my aluminum framed bike. Where I really feel the less of the vibrations is on smooth flowing areas and through heavily rooted sections. There is a definite difference in feel which I attribute directly to lack of vibrations vs the vibrations from heavy impacts. On jumps and bigger drops I can't really say I feel a difference other than knowing I'm on a carbon frame. Also, the bike makes a different sound than the aluminum bike, it's less tinny and less audioable.
    I really feel a much greater difference on my road bike, there is a tremendous difference in the lack vibrations not being transmitted through the frame to your arms and butt.

    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    She's heavy but really lovin this bike!
    That's a good looking bike, I am thinking about picking up the M5 29er frame.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post
    Best way I can describe the feeling, is the lack of vibrations that I don't feel on my carbon frame that I felt on my aluminum framed bike. Where I really feel the less of the vibrations is on smooth flowing areas and through heavily rooted sections. There is a definite difference in feel which I attribute directly to lack of vibrations vs the vibrations from heavy impacts. On jumps and bigger drops I can't really say I feel a difference other than knowing I'm on a carbon frame. Also, the bike makes a different sound than the aluminum bike, it's less tinny and less audioable.
    I really feel a much greater difference on my road bike, there is a tremendous difference in the lack vibrations not being transmitted through the frame to your arms and butt.

    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!
    You do realize you're riding a full suspension bike right?

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR2ebike View Post
    You do realize you're riding a full suspension bike right?
    Every time I ride it...

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post
    Every time I ride it...
    A NOTE FOR THE SKEPTICAL...

    If you think your bike looks good, it does.
    If you like the way your bike rides, it’s an awesome bike.
    You don’t need to spend a million dollars to have a great bike, but if you do spend a million dollars and know what you want you’ll probably also have a great bike.
    Yes, you can tour on your bike – whatever it is.
    Yes, you can race on your bike – whatever it is.
    Yes, you can commute on your bike – whatever it is.
    26” wheels or 29” or 650b or 700c or 24” or 20” or whatever – yes, that wheel size is rad and you’ll probably get where you’re going.
    Disc brakes, cantis, v-brakes, and road calipers all do a great job of stopping a bike when they’re working and adjusted.
    No paint job makes everyone happy.
    Yes, you can put a rack on that. Get some p-clamps if there are no mounts.
    Steel is a great material for making bike frames - so is aluminum, carbon fiber, and titanium.
    You can have your saddle at whatever angle makes you happy.
    Your handlebars can be lower than your saddle, even with your saddle, or higher than your saddle. Whichever way you like it is right.
    Being shuttled up a downhill run does not make you a weak person, nor does choosing not to fly off of a 10 foot drop.
    Bike frames made overseas can be super cool. Bike frames made in the USA can be super cool.
    Hey, tattooed and pierced long shorts wearin flat brim hat red bull drinkin white Oakley sportin rad person on your full suspension big hit bike – nice work out there.
    Hey, little round glasses pocket protector collared shirt skid lid rear view mirror sandal wearing schwalbe marathon running pletscher two-leg kickstand tourist – good job.
    Hey, shaved leg skinny as hell super duper tan line hear rate monitor checking power tap train in the basement all winter super loud lycra kit million dollar wheels racer – keep it up.
    The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt.
    No bike does everything perfectly. In fact, no bike does anything until someone gets on it to ride.
    Sometimes, recumbent bikes are ok.
    Your bikeshop is not trying to screw you. They’re trying to stay open.
    Buying things off of the internet is great, except when it sucks.
    Some people know more about bikes than you do. Other people know less.
    Maybe the person you waved at while you were out riding didn’t see you wave at them.
    It sucks to be harassed by asses in cars while you’re on a bike. It also sucks to drive behind assess on bikes.
    Did you build that yourself? Awesome. Did you buy that? Cool.
    Wheelies are the best trick ever invented. That’s just a fact.
    Which is better, riding long miles, or hanging out under a bridge doing tricks? Yes.
    Yes, you can break your collar bone riding a bike like that.
    Stopping at stop signs is probably a good idea.
    Driving with your bikes on top of your car to get to a dirt trail isn’t ideal, but for most people it’s necessary.
    If your bike has couplers, or if you have a spendy bike case, or if you pay a shop to pack your bike, or if you have a folding bike, shipping a bike is still a pain in the ass for everyone involved.
    That dent in your frame is probably ok, but maybe it’s not. You should get it looked at.
    Touch up paint always looks like sh!t. Often it looks worse than the scratch.
    A pristine bike free of dirt, scratches, and wear marks makes me sort of sad.
    A bike that’s been chained to the same tree for three years caked with rust and missing parts makes me sad too.
    Toe overlap is not the end of the world, unless you crash and die – then it is.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
    Yes, you can buy a bike without riding it first. It would be nice to ride it first, but it’s not a deal breaker not to.
    Ownership of a truing stand does not make a wheel builder.
    32 spokes, 48 spokes, 24 spokes, three spokes? Sure.
    Single speed bikes are rad. Bikes with derailleurs and cassettes are sexy. Belt drive internal gear bikes work great too.
    Columbus, TruTemper, Reynolds, Ishiwata, or no brand? I’d ride it.
    Tubeless tires are pretty cool. So are tubes.
    The moral of RAGBRAI is that families and drunken boobs can have fun on the same route, just maybe at different times of day.
    Riding by yourself kicks ass. You might also try riding with a group.
    Really fast people are frustrating, but they make you faster. When you get faster, you might frustrate someone else.
    Stopping can be as much fun as riding.
    Lots of people worked their asses off to build whatever you’re riding on. You should thank them.
    Surly Bikes

    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch3637 View Post
    ^^^ Again thanks for the advice. After looking into this for awhile even before I posted the question I was looking at one other bike which isn't Specialized but my LBS carries them. In the end after talking to the manager and other spots on the forum as well as doing way more reading this past month then I should, I'm going with the other bike. One cause i'm getting the other bike for a great deal with my trade in and the other brand fits me better overall. Thank you for the help though. - Hutch
    Finding the right bike is "Numero Uno"...
    Go ride that bike and wear it out!!!...

    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

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    To the guys that answered about my clearance issue... thank you, I usually ride with headphones on but I messed with the bike today to listen to it. The BB was making weird noises if I shook the bike side to side while standing on the pedals so I dropped it off at the shop. Asked about it being covered by warranty and they said they'd look at it - the thing better be covered on a two week old bike of this price range.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vesrah View Post
    To the guys that answered about my clearance issue... thank you, I usually ride with headphones on but I messed with the bike today to listen to it. The BB was making weird noises if I shook the bike side to side while standing on the pedals so I dropped it off at the shop. Asked about it being covered by warranty and they said they'd look at it - the thing better be covered on a two week old bike of this price range.
    Any adjustment should be covered .. If they don't... Contact spec directly and they will take care of you...877-808-8154...

    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  42. #242
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    One place my bike will creak at is the shock pivot points. Sounds like a seat or seat post creaking but it is the two shock pivot points. Lube those and the bike is silent. Something that you might consider, creaks can be difficult to pinpoint.

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    Spacers ended up being installed on the wrong side, fixed now. Still not much clearance but the creak is gone.

    Thanks

  44. #244
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    My fork update should be finished by the weekend. The original QR fork lowers and brain damper are being swapped out today.

    The Rock Shox Sid 29 15mm fork lowers don't include a 15mm Maxle Lite thru axle so you have to buy one seperately. The standard Rock Shox 15mm Maxle Lite thru axle is quite expensive and fairly heavy. It has a small set screw under the handle that you undo to rotate the handle, so that the handle lines up neatly with the fork leg when closed. Apparently this set screw for the handle position can potentially work loose.

    I went for a Tune DC15 15mm thru axle instead, ordered from Starbike.de. It appears to be nicely made and is a bit lighter than the Rock Shox version. One thing that I was unclear about with the Tune DC15 thru axle was whether you can adjust the handle position when it is used with a Rock Shox fork. The handle position on the Tune DC15 thru axle can be adjusted by pushing in the spring loaded end of the skewer, allowing it to be turned to the correct position. The only difference between the different versions of Tune DC15 skewer is the length and thread of the thru axle to be compatible with different forks.

    Pictured below: Tune DC15 Rock Shox 15mm thru axle has an adjustable spring loaded handle
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-tune_dc15_rock_shox.jpg  


  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    My fork update should be finished by the weekend. The original QR fork lowers and brain damper are being swapped out today.

    The Rock Shox Sid 29 15mm fork lowers don't include a 15mm Maxle Lite thru axle so you have to buy one seperately. The standard Rock Shox 15mm Maxle Lite thru axle is quite expensive and fairly heavy. It has a small set screw under the handle that you undo to rotate the handle, so that the handle lines up neatly with the fork leg when closed. Apparently this set screw for the handle position can potentially work loose.

    I went for a Tune DC15 15mm thru axle instead, ordered from Starbike.de. It appears to be nicely made and is a bit lighter than the Rock Shox version. One thing that I was unclear about with the Tune DC15 thru axle was whether you can adjust the handle position when it is used with a Rock Shox fork. The handle position on the Tune DC15 thru axle can be adjusted by pushing in the spring loaded end of the skewer, allowing it to be turned to the correct position. The only difference between the different versions of Tune DC15 skewer is the length and thread of the thru axle to be compatible with different forks.

    Pictured below: Tune DC15 Rock Shox 15mm thru axle has an adjustable spring loaded handle
    Please pot you findings after your finished... Thinking of doing it to my Epic EVO
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonytourist View Post
    That's a good looking bike, I am thinking about picking up the M5 29er frame.
    Thanks!

  47. #247
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    I've got the new fork lowers and front wheel fitted now. The updated front end consists of:

    Rock Shox Sid 29 15mm thru axle lowers
    Rock Shox RCT3 damper replacing the fork's brain damper
    Tune DC15 thru axle
    Extralite Hyperfront 15mm thru axle hub 28 hole
    DT Swiss Supercomp straight pull spokes
    light-bicycle.com XC carbon clincher rim 3k carbon matte finish

    I also fitted a new stem to replace the 110mm Extralite Ultrastem OC stem that I had on. With the added leverage of wide bars I was making the Extralite stem flex badly when trying hard uphill. The 110mm length was also slightly too long so I've changed it for a 100mm Ritchey WCS C260 carbon matrix - 8 degree stem. The stem is alloy but carbon wrapped with a gloss UD carbon finish. It's slightly heavier than the standard Ritchey C260 stem but is supposed to be stiffer also. The stem's finish looks a lot like the gloss UD carbon finish of the Ritchey Superlogic 10D carbon bars.

    Although the bike is assembled it isn't rideable yet. The Tune DC15 thru axle is too long. The DC15's cam lever is nowhere near the fork leg when the axle is screwed in fully. Of course I discovered this at 5pm on the Friday before a Bank Holiday weekend. I'm going to make a 3mm washer tomorrow to sit between the fork leg and Tune DC15 so that it has something to tighten against. Hopefully that will work. If not, I'm going to have to try and get a Rock Shox Maxle Lite 15mm thru axle from somewhere.

    Pictured below: 2012 Epic Expert 29er with its new updates. Both rims are the light-bicycle.com XC carbon clinchers as I had the Powertap hub built into one also. They're quite understated, unless you look more closely when the 3k carbon weave begins to show. They're stiffer and also a few mm wider than the stock Roval Control 29 alloy rims. The extra width helps to give a better tyre profile for cornering.

    The standard Rock Shox Sid 29 fork decals don't look out of place with the Epic Expert 29er's black and white colour scheme. The Extralite front hub is lightweight but I'm already a bit concerned about how well the hub bearings are sealed. As you can see from the picture there isn't much to the hub, empty space and a few o-ring seals. I went for standard bearings, rather than ceramic bearings. The standard bearings still feel very smooth. Every time I've been out on the bike recently it's been in the middle of a 29er specific rainstorm though. I'm not sure how well they're going to hold up.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-2012_epic_thru_axle.jpg  

    2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-2012_epic_tune_axle.jpg  

    Last edited by WR304; 05-05-2012 at 01:49 PM.

  48. #248
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    In order to make the Tune DC15 clamp down I added a 15mm id x 22mm od x 3mm width washer onto the axle between the fork leg and lever. The washer stops the axle threading in too far and takes up the empty space, so that the lever cam can be closed properly. With the washer the Tune DC15 clamps down tightly, holding the thru axle firmly in place. I've attached a picture showing the Tune DC15 with the washer installed. It really ought to have worked first time without needing any washers adding though.

    I did two hours on the bike today and it all held together. The handling was much improved from when the fork had QR lowers. You can really feel the difference when you lean the bike over into a corner at speed. With the previous QR fork lowers and alloy Roval Control 29 wheel the front end would begin to protest and start to push wide as the cornering load increased. With the 15mm thru axle lowers and carbon rim it gives a more precise feel on corner entry. Mid corner through to the corner exit the thru axle fork holds its line better with less understeer.

    Changing the fork damper has made the fork quiet by getting rid of the constant brain rattle. You have low speed compression and rebound damping settings available on the Rock Shox RCT3 damper. The low speed compression adds a platform to reduce fork bob and brake dive when riding. The blue lever on top of the right hand fork leg is for controlling the fork platform. It has three positions (full open, platform and full lockout). The silver dial on top of the blue lever allows you to fine tune the amount of low speed compression platform that there is when the blue lever is turned to the middle platform position. The silver dial settings have no effect when the blue lever is set to full open position. With the RCT3 damper's platform enabled the fork has a firm feel. If you're pushing down on the fork it feels quite stiff to compress, a lot like a Specialized brain fork with 3-5 clicks of brain platform applied. There's a noticeable difference in RCT3 damper platform firmness depending upon how many clicks of the silver dial you use.

    My initial impression after one ride is that I don't think the Rock Shox RCT3 damper performs as well as the original Specialized brain damper. There's a big jump in feel between having the RCT3 damper full open and using it with its low speed compression platform enabled. With even the minimum amount of low speed compression enabled the fork felt harsh. I spent most of the ride with the fork in its full open most active setting. With the Specialized brain damper you have a wider range of adjustment to how the fork feels under low speed compression. The rebound damping on the Specialized brain damper seems better too, more controlled. The new damper should loosen up a bit with time, which might improve the feel.

    The Extralite Hyperfront hub just worked. It didn't cause any problems or have any noticeable quirks, although it was a dry day today.

    I've also attached a picture of the Ritchey WCS C260 carbonmatrix stem from the front with the computer bracket removed. The main difference in design is that the stem clamp wraps further around the bars than a standard stem clamp, which is supposed to be both stiffer and also spread the clamping load better. Because of the wrap around clamp you have to slide the stem across from a narrow bar section into place before fixing the stem clamp on. Easy to do on a mountain bike handlebar.

    The Ritchey stem felt stiffer than the Extralite stem. It didn't appear to be flexing as much when climbing. Going to a 10mm shorter stem (after moving the saddle back 5mm at the same time) has changed my riding position slightly. I was still getting some lower back ache on the left hand side when climbing but it was better than before. The most noticeable change from the shorter stem is that it feels like I'm putting a lot more weight on my hands and working my forearms harder, which isn't ideal. The handling is still ok with the shorter stem, a bit more responsive. The front end is a little lighter climbing but not enough to begin lifting or wandering when riding uphill.

    Pictured below: Tune DC15 thru axle with a 3mm aluminium washer added to take up the slack and allow the lever cam to fasten tightly enough to hold the front wheel in place.

    Ritchey WCS C260 carbonmatrix stem front view showing the wrap around stem clamp.
    The gloss UD carbon finish of the 100mm Ritchey WCS C260 carbon matrix stem is a good match for the Ritchey Superlogic 10D carbon bars. I cut 1cm off the fork steerer also, removing the big stack of spacers that had been above the stem. You can also see the RCT3 damper's blue platform lever and low speed compression adjustment dial on the top of the fork leg.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-2012_epic_tune_washer2.jpg  

    2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-2012_epic_ritchey_stem2.jpg  

    Last edited by WR304; 05-05-2012 at 02:16 PM.

  49. #249
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    It's been quite wet here for the last few weeks. Almost every ride has been in the rain. Even when it doesn't rain all the gound is waterlogged so everything still gets plastered in mud.

    Something to check is that the water drain hole in your 2012 Epic's bottom bracket shell is open and not obstructed. The drain hole helps to allow the water that builds up within the bottom bracket shell to run out of the frame. If it stays in the frame it corrodes the bottom bracket bearings, reducing their life. When I checked today some mud had blocked up the drain hole. After I dug the mud out plenty of water dripped out of the bottom bracket.

    On my bike the drain hole had to be opened up with a drill from new because it hadn't been fully drilled through at the factory. There wasn't any hole in the protective plastic on the underside of the frame either. Unless you've put a hole through the protective plastic the drain hole won't work and the water inside the bottom bracket won't be able to escape.

    Because the bike is getting soaked every day I've been dropping some chain lube into all the rear suspension pivot bearings after each ride. Based on my previous Specialized Epics' the pivot bearings don't last that long if you use the bike much in bad weather. Hopefully regularly dropping oil in will extend the bearing life a bit more without needing to dismantle the bike all the time. The main pivot bearings are quite exposed to water but also hard to get at to re-grease without taking off the cranks and front derailleur.

    My Specialized Romin Expert saddle body snapped today. I was riding up a hill when there was a loud cracking noise from the saddle. The saddle body had snapped but was held together enough by the saddle covering to ride home on. I find that Specialized saddles with a central cut out don't last that long anyway before they begin to sag excessively or break but this is the shortest one yet. My previous two Specialized Romin saddles lasted around 550 hours riding each before needing replacing. This one was three months old and had only done 193 hours before it broke.

    Pictured below: Specialized Romin Expert saddle saddle body has snapped on one side.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-specialized_romin_expert_failure_10-05-2012.jpg  


  50. #250
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    One of these is starting to look appealing to me.

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandyBoy View Post
    One of these is starting to look appealing to me.
    Having owned both, I think the Epic blows the doors off of the Jet 9. I much prefer the handling and the suspension of the Epic for a pure XC bike.

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2TurnersNotEnough View Post
    Having owned both, I think the Epic blows the doors off of the Jet 9. I much prefer the handling and the suspension of the Epic for a pure XC bike.
    Yeah? Email me when you are blowing out 2012 Epics in carbon. or get my number from FoShiz, cause I think all the 2011's in XL are gone. Frame or frameset would be fine.

  53. #253
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    You will not be disapointed. Three rides on my 2012 Expert and I am descending better than I ever have and climbing just as good or better. I can find no negatives at all with this bike. Fast, smooth, rocky, tight single track. The Epic does it all.
    The Salty Dog 6hr will be a good test this weekend.

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2TurnersNotEnough View Post
    Having owned both, I think the Epic blows the doors off of the Jet 9. I much prefer the handling and the suspension of the Epic for a pure XC bike.
    I second your opinion. Was a Jet 9 owner around 4 months back.
    The Epic is just a better bike in every way. The CVA linkage is too
    "active", especially on climbs.

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  56. #256
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    After raining almost non stop for about a month it's suddenly returned to being warm and sunny again.

    The updated fork and front wheel have been working ok. It's really nice having a quiet bike that doesn't rattle as though it's got loose bits of metal inside. The other day I came up behind a horse rider on an offroad track, they pulled over to let me through and as I rode past they commented that they hadn't heard me coming. That was good.

    Although the fork is quiet the Rock Shox RCT3 damper platform doesn't work as well as the original Specialized brain damper. From a performance point of view I definitely preferred the brain damper to control the fork's movement. I've been using the fork in full active mode with no platform at all as the Rock Shox RCT3 damper platform makes the fork too harsh. I want something between full open and the minimum RCT3 platform setting really. The fully active fork is nice and comfy but it also bobs during seated climbing, which I find distracting. With the full open fork and 3 clicks from full firm rear brain (fairly soft platform for comfort, noticeable pedal bob from the rear suspension) the bobbing from both the fork and rear shock together can make the bike sometimes feel as though it's wallowing when trying hard.

    I replaced the broken Specialized Romin Expert saddle (titanium rails) with a Specialized Romin Pro saddle (carbon rails) which weighs 165g. So far it seems to be working well. The carbon rails give a noticeable damping effect to the ride, making for a bit more comfort over small bumps as you don't feel so much vibration through the saddle.

    The 29x2.1" Specialized Ground Control tyres are still going strong. I really like them as a mixed condition tyre. The siping on the central tread blocks has worn off the rear tyre at 1526 miles / 106 hours riding but traction is still acceptable. If anything the slightly lower worn down tread on the rear tyre is working better than when the tyre was new, apart from in thick mud where it's been stepping out a bit. I've got a spare to replace the rear tyre but as it still seems ok I might leave the current tyre on for a few weeks yet.

    Today was a bit of a disaster though. It was really warm so I had my outer top mostly undone whilst riding. Some sort of flying insect flew down inside the exposed base layer and did some major biting. Fortunately it was in a quiet place as I came to a screeching halt and started throwing clothes off to try and get at the insect that was biting me.

    A bit later in the ride I was riding along a woodland trail when suddenly there was a bang from the rear of the bike and I lost drive. I think that a stick might have been thrown into the SRAM X-0 rear derailleur. The parallelogram had snapped at the forward pivot and one of the jockey wheels had been ripped off meaning that the bike was unrideable. That was 20 miles from home and guess what I didn't have with me...

    I had a few spare Connex quick links in case the chain snapped but no chain tool to shorten the chain enough to make the bike a singlespeed. I ended up having to phone a mate who lived a few miles away to come and pick me up for a lift home.

    Pictured below: SRAM X-0 rear derailleur parallelogram has snapped at the forward pivot, destroying the rear mech. The derailleur went into the spokes also, buckling the rear wheel. On the plus side the gear hanger on the frame still appears to be straight and undamaged.

    Edit: Here's a close up picture of the broken SRAM X-0 rear derailleur showing where the carbon fibre front pivot section has snapped off. The stone is just there to hold the derailleur open for the picture.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-2012_epic_romin_pro.jpg  

    2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-2012_epic_broken_derailleur.jpg  

    2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-sram_x0_broken_derailleur.jpg  

    Last edited by WR304; 05-24-2012 at 08:32 AM.

  57. #257
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    Santiago Truck Trail / Luge @ Portola Hills CA today.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-sst_luge.jpg  


  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    After raining almost non stop for about a month it's suddenly returned to being warm and sunny again.

    The updated fork and front wheel have been working ok. It's really nice having a quiet bike that doesn't rattle as though it's got loose bits of metal inside. The other day I came up behind a horse rider on an offroad track, they pulled over to let me through and as I rode past they commented that they hadn't heard me coming. That was good.

    Although the fork is quiet the Rock Shox RCT3 damper platform doesn't work as well as the original Specialized brain damper. From a performance point of view I definitely preferred the brain damper to control the fork's movement. I've been using the fork in full active mode with no platform at all as the Rock Shox RCT3 damper platform makes the fork too harsh. I want something between full open and the minimum RCT3 platform setting really. The fully active fork is nice and comfy but it also bobs during seated climbing, which I find distracting. With the full open fork and 3 clicks from full firm rear brain (fairly soft platform for comfort, noticeable pedal bob from the rear suspension) the bobbing from both the fork and rear shock together can make the bike sometimes feel as though it's wallowing when trying hard.

    I replaced the broken Specialized Romin Expert saddle (titanium rails) with a Specialized Romin Pro saddle (carbon rails) which weighs 165g. So far it seems to be working well. The carbon rails give a noticeable damping effect to the ride, making for a bit more comfort over small bumps as you don't feel so much vibration through the saddle.

    The 29x2.1" Specialized Ground Control tyres are still going strong. I really like them as a mixed condition tyre. The siping on the central tread blocks has worn off the rear tyre at 1526 miles / 106 hours riding but traction is still acceptable. If anything the slightly lower worn down tread on the rear tyre is working better than when the tyre was new, apart from in thick mud where it's been stepping out a bit. I've got a spare to replace the rear tyre but as it still seems ok I might leave the current tyre on for a few weeks yet.

    Today was a bit of a disaster though. It was really warm so I had my outer top mostly undone whilst riding. Some sort of flying insect flew down inside the exposed base layer and did some major biting. Fortunately it was in a quiet place as I came to a screeching halt and started throwing clothes off to try and get at the insect that was biting me.

    A bit later in the ride I was riding along a woodland trail when suddenly there was a bang from the rear of the bike and I lost drive. I think that a stick might have been thrown into the SRAM X-0 rear derailleur. The parallelogram had snapped at the forward pivot and one of the jockey wheels had been ripped off meaning that the bike was unrideable. That was 20 miles from home and guess what I didn't have with me...

    I had a few spare Connex quick links in case the chain snapped but no chain tool to shorten the chain enough to make the bike a singlespeed. I ended up having to phone a mate who lived a few miles away to come and pick me up for a lift home.

    Pictured below: SRAM X-0 rear derailleur parallelogram has snapped at the forward pivot, destroying the rear mech. The derailleur went into the spokes also, buckling the rear wheel. On the plus side the gear hanger on the frame still appears to be straight and undamaged.

    Edit: Here's a close up picture of the broken SRAM X-0 rear derailleur showing where the carbon fibre front pivot section has snapped off. The stone is just there to hold the derailleur open for the picture.
    Main thing is you weren't seriously injured and able to put it into words... tomorrow is an other day and a possible excuse for the upgrade to the new clutch rear derailer.
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  59. #259
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    Hey guys!
    New to these forums and own a Epic Comp Carbon 29er.

    Looking to upgrade the wheels, as the stock ones arnt very strong and the rear hub is already starting to poo it's self.
    I am finding it very hard to track down possible prebuilt wheelset options at a reasonable price(not looking to spend above $600) and in the right hub spacing config(or are convertible).

    I am looking for something with a decent amount of hub engagements, are relatively light and are strong.

    Can you guys give me some ideas of the possible wheelsets available suitable to the 142x12 and 9mm setup the epics run?

    Thanks in advance

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlp View Post
    Santiago Truck Trail / Luge @ Portola Hills CA today.

    Roval Carbons ? Sweet ! Thank you for posting them as I have the very same bike and I'm looking to buy a pair too,a visual reference was all I needed.
    How are those rims holding up anyway ? What kind of improvements you've felt ?


    @WR04 : bad riding day mate,sorry to hear that. Keep up and move on

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sputnick View Post
    Hey guys!
    New to these forums and own a Epic Comp Carbon 29er.

    Looking to upgrade the wheels, as the stock ones arnt very strong and the rear hub is already starting to poo it's self.
    I am finding it very hard to track down possible prebuilt wheelset options at a reasonable price(not looking to spend above $600) and in the right hub spacing config(or are convertible).

    I am looking for something with a decent amount of hub engagements, are relatively light and are strong.

    Can you guys give me some ideas of the possible wheelsets available suitable to the 142x12 and 9mm setup the epics run?

    Thanks in advance
    The first time I test rode a 2012 Specialized Epic Comp carbon 29er the rear wheel buckled immediately, shortly after I left the shop.

    My suggestion would be to take the stock wheels to a good wheelbuillder and ask for them to be re-tensioned. That should improve them enough to last for a while longer without costing too much.

    For the back wheel I'd have the original rim built into a new hub. A Hope Pro 2 Evo 142x12mm rear hub would be a possibility.

    Pro 2 Evo Hubs - Pro 2 Evo Hubs Product Details

    .

  62. #262
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    Thanks for your reply!
    I have a Pro2Evo on the rear of my DH bike, but not overly happy with the amount of engagements. I am hopefully looking for something with around 36 engagements.

    I was thinking of maybe a Crank Brother Cobalt wheelset.
    Only issue would be compatability. It is listed as QR15mm, but on the CB website it says 15mm or 9mm, which has me confused if it comes with adaptors to change between 15mm and 9mm.

    Also, as stated the rear has to be 142x12. Can these be converted with the right adaptors?


    Cheers

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlp View Post
    Santiago Truck Trail / Luge @ Portola Hills CA today.
    Beautiful pic for this Memorial Day Weekend !!!
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devastazione View Post
    Roval Carbons ? Sweet ! Thank you for posting them as I have the very same bike and I'm looking to buy a pair too,a visual reference was all I needed.
    How are those rims holding up anyway ? What kind of improvements you've felt ?
    Rims are holding up fine. I really didn't ride with the old wheels long enough to size up the differences but with the other mods it took off about 3lbs with pedals. No regrets so far and would do it again. I have some other pics around here in a "Weight" thread. Hope that helps.



    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post
    Beautiful pic for this Memorial Day Weekend !!!

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sputnick View Post
    Thanks for your reply!
    I have a Pro2Evo on the rear of my DH bike, but not overly happy with the amount of engagements. I am hopefully looking for something with around 36 engagements.

    I was thinking of maybe a Crank Brother Cobalt wheelset.
    Only issue would be compatability. It is listed as QR15mm, but on the CB website it says 15mm or 9mm, which has me confused if it comes with adaptors to change between 15mm and 9mm.

    Also, as stated the rear has to be 142x12. Can these be converted with the right adaptors?


    Cheers
    A fairly cost effective rear hub would be a DT Swiss 350 hub in 142x12mm spacing. It's upgradeable to the same 36 tooth star ratchet as the DT 240s hub but cheaper.

    New DT Swiss 350 road and MTB hubs / Just Riding Along - the blog

    Apart from that you're probably looking at something like Chris King, Hadley or Industry 9 hubs which are all quite expensive.

    The Crank Brothers Cobalt front hub is interchangeable between 15mm thru axle and 9mm QR by changing the end caps:
    http://www.crankbrothers.com/support...balt_wheel.pdf

    There's a 142x12mm conversion kit available so the Cobalt 29 rear wheel would fit an Epic 29er:
    Crank Bros Cobalt 29/ Cr29ssmax on Epic 29?

    I'm not sure how much of an upgrade they would be though. If you do a Google search for "mtbr crank brothers cobalt" the comments about them are fairly mixed.

    crank brothers cobalt 3 wheelset

    .

  66. #266
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    After riding my epic for 64 m on a blown Reba brain shock, I can attest to the durability of the Roval Carbon wheel set. They took a beating and liked it. Back to the lab for blown cartridges on the front fork. I knew something was wrong with this fork. Just couldn't figure it out until it totally gave out. I don't know how the neg/pos air chamber work together, but after trying to experiment with pressures (since I got it) I could never really get it dialed. The issue was the air champers were not working properly. I'm not sure any one else has experienced this or not, but it makes for some sore arms and neck. The LBS said he's seen this before in the Reba.

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    A fairly cost effective rear hub would be a DT Swiss 350 hub in 142x12mm spacing. It's upgradeable to the same 36 tooth star ratchet as the DT 240s hub but cheaper.

    New DT Swiss 350 road and MTB hubs / Just Riding Along - the blog

    Apart from that you're probably looking at something like Chris King, Hadley or Industry 9 hubs which are all quite expensive.

    The Crank Brothers Cobalt front hub is interchangeable between 15mm thru axle and 9mm QR by changing the end caps:
    http://www.crankbrothers.com/support...balt_wheel.pdf

    There's a 142x12mm conversion kit available so the Cobalt 29 rear wheel would fit an Epic 29er:
    Crank Bros Cobalt 29/ Cr29ssmax on Epic 29?

    I'm not sure how much of an upgrade they would be though. If you do a Google search for "mtbr crank brothers cobalt" the comments about them are fairly mixed.

    crank brothers cobalt 3 wheelset

    .
    +1 for the DT350's - I have a set laced to Mavic 719 29er rims as my "heavy weather" wheels. Nice build and reliable so far. Noticeably quieter than the DT24s FWH as well.

  68. #268
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    Good job! Epic Photos of my new Epic!

    Here are some photos of my new ride, while it's still new. I hope you enjoy the photos.

    Click the photos for a larger view or click here to view all the photos and more as a fullscreen slideshow.













    Last edited by A.Christopher; 06-27-2012 at 12:08 PM.
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  69. #269
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    [QUOTE=MhzMonster;9395668]Here are some photos of my new ride, while it's still new. I hope you enjoy the photos.

    Click the links above for larger photos or click here to view all the photos and more as a fullscreen slideshow.


    Good memories of when I've brought home my '12 Expert in september. Enjoy the bike and good luck with the mighty Formula brakes ().

    How come flat pedals ?

  70. #270
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    New 2012 Epic Comp Carbon Vs. Aluminum

    Did my first ride on the carbon model, wow! Greater feedback, stiffer, seemed quieter, faster when hammering up hills and just seemed like it soaked up all the stutter bumps. I loved my 2010 aluminum Epic, but the carbon models is just better in all ways. Stock for now, except for rims, changed them to Stan's Arch EX rims. Now the bike diet begins; seat post, bars, stem and bottle cage. Bike weight w eggbeater pedals, 25.4 lbs.








  71. #271
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    The weather has been grim here for the last few weeks. I decided that it would be a good time to send the rear shock off to be serviced. The weather forecast for July was unrelentingly bad also so it seemed like as good a time as any.

    The 2012 S-WorksEpic and non S-Works Epics have slightly different rear shocks. The S-Works rear shock has a kashima coated shaft which the non S-Works Epics don't have. When the shock was sent back to Specialized UK I asked for it to be upgraded to the kashima coated version at the same time as being serviced.

    Other changes have been that the rear suspension pivot bearings had to be replaced after just three months. The S-link bearings began creaking when pedalling. The other bearings were in a bad state too so it had a full complement of new bearings installed.

    Pictured below: Upgraded kashima coated rear shock.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-2012_epic_kashima_shock.jpg  


  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    The weather has been grim here for the last few weeks. I decided that it would be a good time to send the rear shock off to be serviced. The weather forecast for July was unrelentingly bad also so it seemed like as good a time as any.

    The 2012 S-WorksEpic and non S-Works Epics have slightly different rear shocks. The S-Works rear shock has a kashima coated shaft which the non S-Works Epics don't have. When the shock was sent back to Specialized UK I asked for it to be upgraded to the kashima coated version at the same time as being serviced.

    Other changes have been that the rear suspension pivot bearings had to be replaced after just three months. The S-link bearings began creaking when pedalling. The other bearings were in a bad state too so it had a full complement of new bearings installed.

    Pictured below: Upgraded kashima coated rear shock.
    do you notice any difference? I've considered the kashima coating a triumph of marketing ;-)

    That said I'm going to do a air sleeve service on my 11 SW brain this week-end. I'll check the seals and confirm that the Fox seal kit will work with the Micro IV shock...

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiwi View Post
    do you notice any difference? I've considered the kashima coating a triumph of marketing ;-)

    That said I'm going to do a air sleeve service on my 11 SW brain this week-end. I'll check the seals and confirm that the Fox seal kit will work with the Micro IV shock...
    I haven't been out for a ride yet as I only got the rear shock back today. The Specialized UK service turnaround time was quite good. Only 4 working days.

    There doesn't seem to be any noticeable difference from the kashima coating whilst pushing down on the saddle to compress the rear shock. With its new seals I'd expect the shock to loosen up a little once it's been ridden for a few hours though.

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    I haven't been out for a ride yet as I only got the rear shock back today. The Specialized UK service turnaround time was quite good. Only 4 working days.

    There doesn't seem to be any noticeable difference from the kashima coating whilst pushing down on the saddle to compress the rear shock. With its new seals I'd expect the shock to loosen up a little once it's been ridden for a few hours though.

    WR04 how come did you send the shock in for overhaul ? Did you feel it was time for that ? My bike ( same as yours,same year) has been used for a total of 6 months from sept 2011 and I'll do another 6 months from this september( the bike is now stored due to busy summer work) .My dealer told me to send it in by april 2014. I'm always interested about shocks service needs...
    Bearings replaced already ? Man...it's either I'm way too gentle with my bikes or I'm not pushing it enough..... Of course where I live there is zero mud and very rare rain...
    Last edited by Devastazione; 07-14-2012 at 10:34 AM.

  75. #275
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    I got out for a few hours when it stopped raining today. Everywhere was flooded but it was still a nice ride.

    There's definitely a difference between this new kashima coated S-Works rear shock and the grey mini brain rear shock that came with the bike originally. It would be interesting to know if my original grey rear shock was faulty or not because this new shock feels quite different in use. Specialized sometimes upgrade the brain shocks during their life so maybe this new shock is a later version?

    With the grey shock at full firm brain platform my 2012 Epic 29er always felt sluggish and reluctant on climbs when trying hard. The rear shock would begin to bob a little under load making it feel mushy. With the new shock on full firm brain platform it's more like I remember my 2010 Epic's brain feeling. There's still some slight bob but it's crisper and more responsive to pedalling input than with the grey shock.

    At the same 160psi air pressure the new shock is much more supportive through the midstroke which is where the main improvement appears to come from. The grey shock would have roughly the right sag level but then blow through its travel on medium sized hits. It would rarely bottom out but at the same time could manage to use 70-80 percent travel if you did much more than ride off a kerb.

    The new shock doesn't do that. Small bump comfort is good but it also soaks up the larger bumps without the slightly exaggerated wallowing feel of frequently using close to full travel. It also seems to pedal better with lower levels of brain, possibly as a result of not compressing so easily at the same air pressure or possibly the brain platform is firmer also.

    Service Intervals
    The official service intervals for a 2012 Fox mini brain rear shock are an air sleeve service every 30 hours of riding and a full service every 100 hours riding or annually (whichever comes first).

    WebHelp

    For my last few bikes I've been pushing out the service intervals further than that. What I do before every ride is to put a thin layer of slick honey grease on the fork stanchions and rear shock so that it lubricates the seals and keeps them smooth. It works quite well but does attract dirt so you have to remember to clean it off and re-apply after every ride.

    Billys BMX, Skate and Bike Shop: : Buzzy's: Buzzys Slick Honey 16oz Tub Details

    When you consider that a full brain rear shock service in the UK costs £120 GBP + postage it gets very expensive very fast if you were to stick strictly to the recommended intervals. The grey mini brain rear shock that came with the bike had done 269 hours riding (24 February 2012 - 04 July 2012) which is why I felt it was about time to get it done.

    Pictured below: 2012 Fox rear shock and fork recommended service intervals
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-2012_fox_service_intervals.jpg  


  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiwi View Post
    That said I'm going to do a air sleeve service on my 11 SW brain this week-end. I'll check the seals and confirm that the Fox seal kit will work with the Micro IV shock...
    Well, air can service completed and discovered that the "Fox Racing Shox Float Air Sleeve Rebuild Kit" (Part number 803-00-142) doesn't work for a Micro IV shock. Fine for an RP2/3 shock. Once I had the unit apart I could see what I would have known if I'd spent a little bit of time thinking about it - that the bore of the Micro IV is too small for you to get wipers, seals & O-rings on without removing the brain. Hence, unlike the RP2/3, you must undertake a seal service and a Brain service together. With the RP2/3 you can undertake a simple Air Sleeve service, or a seal service without having to dismantle the shock.

    In conclusion, a simple air sleeve service (remove shock, remove air can clean and re-lube) is all the "home maintenance" you can do on a Miro IV shock. Which is still worth it as I removed quite a lot of dirt from the oil/seals on my shock. As I have the vast majority of my riding in the dry, to be expected I'd guess.

    And as I have an RP2 on my wife's bike at least I haven't wasted my money on the kit.

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post

    Service Intervals
    The official service intervals for a 2012 Fox mini brain rear shock are an air sleeve service every 30 hours of riding and a full service every 100 hours riding or annually (whichever comes first).


    For my last few bikes I've been pushing out the service intervals further than that. What I do before every ride is to put a thin layer of slick honey grease on the fork stanchions and rear shock so that it lubricates the seals and keeps them smooth. It works quite well but does attract dirt so you have to remember to clean it off and re-apply after every ride.



    When you consider that a full brain rear shock service in the UK costs £120 GBP + postage it gets very expensive very fast if you were to stick strictly to the recommended intervals. The grey mini brain rear shock that came with the bike had done 269 hours riding (24 February 2012 - 04 July 2012) which is why I felt it was about time to get it done.

    Pictured below: 2012 Fox rear shock and fork recommended service intervals

    Ok then I guess we all know the story about the 30/50/150 hours service interval

    Can anybody confirm this tho : does 30 hours stands for 30 hours of active suspension and Brain use ? It actually should be like that,I usually run out of 30 hours in less than 3 weeks....

    Just as a reference I use BrunoX or the (stupidly expensive ) Finish Line Stanchion lube for all my stanchions needs,these products really work wonders. I've stopped using them on the shock stanchion because with that thing on it gets way too plush no matter what type Brain settings I'm using
    I'm afraid the Epic is gonna be my very last fully ,my Roubaix is making me want to go back to an honest and whippy front suss . I see a Stumpy HT in my future,enough worrying about bearing and shock overhaul.

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devastazione View Post
    Ok then I guess we all know the story about the 30/50/150 hours service interval

    Can anybody confirm this tho : does 30 hours stands for 30 hours of active suspension and Brain use ? It actually should be like that,I usually run out of 30 hours in less than 3 weeks....

    Just as a reference I use BrunoX or the (stupidly expensive ) Finish Line Stanchion lube for all my stanchions needs,these products really work wonders. I've stopped using them on the shock stanchion because with that thing on it gets way too plush no matter what type Brain settings I'm using
    I'm afraid the Epic is gonna be my very last fully ,my Roubaix is making me want to go back to an honest and whippy front suss . I see a Stumpy HT in my future,enough worrying about bearing and shock overhaul.
    The thing to remember is that the "Air Sleeve" service can be undertaken at home and would take an average semi-skilled person about an hour. I use Float fluid as Fox suggest, but also some Slick Honey on the seals.

    That said, I agree that the annual Brain Service is expensive and my view is that if it ain't broke, it don't need fixing. However the BUMMER is that you cannot replace the seals without removing the Brain - hence a brain service.

    So my take on all of this is that you should stick to the 30 hour service, ensure that seals are clean and lubed - and then you should be able to push off the seal/brain service.

  79. #279
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    Again.....are we talking 30 hours of riding or 30 hours of effective suspension/Brain activation during downhills and bump hits ?

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devastazione View Post
    Again.....are we talking 30 hours of riding or 30 hours of effective suspension/Brain activation during downhills and bump hits ?
    Splitting Hairs. 30 hours is the amount of time Fox recommends that seals be left before they are cleaned and lubed. More in harsh (dusty/wet) environments.

    I'm not sure what difference it would make if the shock wasn't moving much. You could argue less wear, you could argue more wear. As I said, the real issue is how long before the seals become "contaminated" with grit and start to cause wear on the bore. More regular preventative maintenance, and less frequent Brain services seems the "go" to me...

  81. #281
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    I've been back and forth on either a FS alloy 29er or carbon HT 29er. I've pretty well narrowed my search down to Cannondale Flash for the carbon HT or a Spec Epic Comp 29er. Both pretty close in price...

    HT is fine for where I ride, in fact most people on the trails ride/race HT. BUT, I'm not getting any younger and my fitness is far behind others my age who ride regularly as I just got into the sport last summer. So FS is a viable option. I can't stand up for all the roots and it really takes it's toll on my back by the end of a ride. Sometimes more than others.

    One thing that gives me paus about a FS is the rear bob while climbing. I can climb anything on my HT, it hurts but I make it. The more I read about the epic and the "brain" the more interested I become. Everyone in this thread seems to love theirs. The reviews are all positive. But how do they compare to other FS 29ers in the 3k price range? It's gonna take the better part of a year to gather together the cash needed for whatever bike I chose, I'd like to know my money will be well spent!

    Thus far in my research I've found that across all bike manufactures their entry carbon HT and entry FS 29ers are within a few hundred bucks of each other. Further more, the spec for the HT is always at least as good if not slightly better than the FS spec. But with a carbon frame.
    SS ==> Nut up or Shut up!

  82. #282
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    Just cleaned up my 2012 epic comp 29er, added some new wheels which are stans arch ex with white industries hubs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-epic29er.jpg  


  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by -freddan- View Post
    Ouch, I better pay attention to my pedals then. To bad Shimano dont hold up to their previous quality level.
    My 7-year old 959 pedals are still running super smooth and my even older 535 from -99 are still working perfect on my winter bike, though the seals have disappeared since long time ago. But they don't seem to care.
    Yeah, now it's my turn. The seal wont stay in place any longer. Crappy pedals.

  84. #284
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  85. #285
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    My third brain ( I get about 60 hrs / shock) there is no effective service of the shock.

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by skey44 View Post


    My third brain ( I get about 60 hrs / shock) there is no effective service of the shock.
    Actually there is, did you not get your 150 hour services done?

  87. #287
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    I should clarify my quote about an "effective service." The rear shock has not made it to 150 hrs yet. Twice it has lasted 60 hrs for me. The first time it completely lost compression and was replaced in about a week turn around with a new shock. The second time they actually sent the shock into spec and after a three week turn around, I then had shock #3. The second time they actually diagnosed a blown seal in the mini brain.

    Therefore to clarify, in my experience there is no effective service for theses shocks. They are also most likely non-repairable, as it seems they would attempt a service/repair if it was possible. We will see about the lifespan of #3. This is just my experience and conclusion based on it.

    I may get lucky as I have friends with a 2010 and a 2011 both with many 100s of hrs of service free lifespan. It may be my size (about 200#), or my ride style (aggressive xc) causing the short life. I really don't know, but I plan to keep riding it. I will spend my money elsewhere on a non-proprietary rear suspension next time. The brain rails in my terrain, but has not been a reliable component for me.

  88. #288
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    Broken Chain Stay

    I was with a friend and riding conservatively on smooth hard pack single track . Now, with two brain fails and a rear triangle fail.... what sup? will this keep up forever with an epic? I weigh 200# and have been fine on crest rims the whole time (since december 2011) without any issues if you question how smooth or aggressively I ride.


  89. #289
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    My 2012 Epic Expert 29 (small) at 22.48 lbs.

    2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-img_20130711_093848_893.jpg
    2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-img_20130716_112835_448.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-img_7619.jpg  


  90. #290
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    I see you have this bike for sale on craiglist,what are you getting next?

  91. #291
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    No plans on getting a new bike but if I do, for sure it won't be a 29er.

    Quote Originally Posted by bruce219 View Post
    I see you have this bike for sale on craiglist,what are you getting next?

  92. #292
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    Tomorrow ya'll will see the most non racey/kinda racey epic you ve ever seen. Minus the ill mannered brain......Yaaaay. What a catastophy. It ran as supposed to for awhile but even that was a curse. Then a never ending issue. $150/yr minimum to use a system is like paying taxes. If a company doesn't let the consumer work on their own over priced equipment it's hard to understand what they are trying to do. Anywho I dig their bikes and cant bit ch too much cause Im doin what I want and think it ll be dope. Bye bye brain... Hello real suspension!!

  93. #293
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    hello all..
    i just bought a new epic 29er 012 sworks frame. i bought it online. the problem is there is some kind of coating all over the frame and in some parts in looks not shiny. As if the coating doesnt really stick to the frame.
    is it normal? i attach picture:
    2012 Epic 29er Picture Thread-photo-6-.jpg
    the black part looks very dull.

  94. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by papafilo View Post
    hello all..
    i just bought a new epic 29er 012 sworks frame. i bought it online. the problem is there is some kind of coating all over the frame and in some parts in looks not shiny. As if the coating doesnt really stick to the frame.
    is it normal? i attach picture:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    the black part looks very dull.
    It is a bit hard to tell from the photo, but it looks quite normal to me. There is a clear coat over the carbon on my SW Epic, but I wouldn't call it shiny. Interesting that your shock doesn't have any labelling. Why is that?

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiwi View Post
    It is a bit hard to tell from the photo, but it looks quite normal to me. There is a clear coat over the carbon on my SW Epic, but I wouldn't call it shiny. Interesting that your shock doesn't have any labelling. Why is that?
    it still has paper cover..it is hard to tell from the photo, yes.
    but somehow it is not like what i expected..probably because of the clear coat..
    this is my first time actually touching carbon frame.
    i live in remote area, no LBS..

  96. #296
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    different shine levels are normal due to carbon structure. HAVE FUN!

  97. #297
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    Unless it's a counterfeit frame, and the finish is just inconsistent.

  98. #298
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    no, the frame comes with an unconsistent appearance. Used to have the same directly bought from Specialized.
    And who would copy a 2012 frame?

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  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirkinho View Post
    no, the frame comes with an unconsistent appearance. Used to have the same directly bought from Specialized.
    And who would copy a 2012 frame?
    Yes, I realize that raw carbon will look different from various angles, and that is normal. However - and we can't tell from the photo - if the clear coat was inconsistently applied. That, along with other incorrect finish issues would be a sign pointing to a counterfeit. Let's hope not.

    Re the 2012 model and counterfeiting, it could have been made 2 years ago. Or, the counterfeiting may have spent a lot of time matching the 2012 version, and continues to pump them out today.

    Note that this particular frame seems to be unused (paper covering the brain - never seen that before), which is a bit odd.

    In any event, just giving options to check on.

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