2010 Stump Comp going from XC to AM?
I have been riding more all-mountain lately and the stumpjumper is just not beefy enough. I know this a lot of stuff here but if anyone has experience with a Spec Stumpjumper Comp going a little bigger I would appreciate the info. Am I wasting my time? I do not have the $ for a new All Mountain type.
I would like...
1-More travel - are there reasonble options or is the rear fixed AND would a tall fork mess up the geometry. The FOX just does not seem to be for bigger drops or hucking. Maybe it is me!
2-Beefier tires - the spec control and s-works sidewalls just keep ripping (about one sidewall tear per ride ). I have UST Pergatory 2.2 on front and back...brand new since last weekend because of tears - but I am doubtful that they will hold up. Should I try a different spec model besides contorl and s-works? At $50-$60 a pop I am getting annoyed. Also, what is the widest tire for the rear? My LBS said 2.2 was the biggest due to tire rub but I would really like 2.35 because loose/chunky AZ terrain. Can I go 3.25?
3-Putting on a bashguard this weekend...the big ring is going to be retired.
4-Higher rise handle bar for better drop geometry?
Well my brother has a stumpy elite and he rides almost everything I do and his bike is still holding up, I checked out the specs and they are very much alike in terms of components. I ride it sometimes so I have some pretty good insight.
1. The rear is fixed, cant do anything about that. You could look into a rp23, or some other higher end shock that will boost damping and add extra adjustments. Which will help with the travel a bit more.
With the fork you have 130mm of travel, they do offer a 140mm fork for the rest of the stumpys, so we know you can run a 140mm fork. The stumpy evo has a 150mm fork, I don't know much about the evo model, but if the frame is the same you could go with a 150mm fork. If you could go with the 150mm fork, I would go that route, basically giving you an extra inch of travel in the front. An inch can make a big difference.
2. Beefier heavier tires will help as well, giving you more cushion and control over rough stuff and drops over lighter tires. From what I can see looking at the stumpy, I'm pretty sure you could get away with 2.35 tires in the rear, the captain 2.2 are larger than the 2.3 eskars I use to have. So tire sizes run all over the place. To find a good tire for your area do a search for your type of conditions, cause a tire that is good where I live, could suck where you are.
3. Bashguard will help the chain stay in place, what size did you get? 32t, 36t?
4. I would stay with a low rise handle bar that comes with your bike. Look for a 750mm width handlebar, increases stability like night and day giving you more control of the bike at speeds. The stock bar on your bike is 660mm, if 750 is too wide then you can cut it down. I've ridden my brothers stumpy and after riding my bike with the wider handlebar, I was afraid to ride on his bike at speed cause I felt like the bike wasn't stable. and I always though his bike felt pretty good. Handlebar will make a big difference. Go to specialized's website and look at their demo low rise bar 750, its 40 bucks and is really nice. Loving mines. Only downside it makes slower technical areas going up a little harder, a little harder to keep the bike straight at slow speeds.
Another thing is to look into a shorter stem, to bring your body further back over the rear wheel, this might help the feel of the bike as well.
Anyone correct me anywhere that I may have wrong, plus I'm pretty sure some more stumpy guys will chime in.
Thanks for the info. I am going to put 2.35 eskar up front and keep the 2.2 purgatory ust on back. I got a 34t bash guard because most likely I will change out the 32 to a 34 to get some more spinning potential on downhill/flat areas. As for the fork I may just waitbut would be the best upgrade probably.
Saying that the EVO frame is the same as a standard stumpy is in-accurate. The EVO has had supple geo changes to compensate for the extra 10mm up front and the little bit longer stroke of the rear shock. Can you put a 150mm on the comp level frame and bomb trails? Yes you can, however it will slacken you out in the head angle. Keep in mind that the advertised head angle of 68.5 for the standard stumpys is also incorrect. If you look into the manual you will find that the head angle is 68.5 on the models with a TALAS fork set in the low position. When you have a standard 140mm fork or a fully extended TALAS the angle slackens out 0.75 to a total of 67.75. So that being said...if you are still doing some climbing slacking out the head may downgrade your ability to climb.
The stumpy frame is tough and you have a lifetime frame warranty unless you damage it in a crash. The frame will take a lot. My rec would be to upgrade to a fork that has at least a 15mm thru axle if not a 20mm. (check pricepoint.com they had some leftover 2010Rockshox Pike 454s w/ u-turn which is adjustible from 120 to 140mm and a 20mm thru axle for like $500) You can sell your fox and get some decent money. That PIKE is a spring fork as well which u will like if your riding true AM.
Also upgrade wheels to something beefy like a STANs Flow wheelset or something to that effect. Also add a chain guard when you put your bashguard on so you can ride in the granny and not drop the chain when hucking or bombing a semi-downhill run.
I'll try to help out here...I have a 2011 SJ FSR Comp Carbon. Heres a list of my mods that help it excel in rougher terrain:
-Fox Float 150 tapered 15qr (tapered is carbon frame only) Longer fork slacks it out to 67.2-67.6 based on 2 iPhone apps and through axle helps stop the front end feeling super noodly at speed on rough terrain. (IMOP a 160 fork would be too much, yes its only 10mm in travel, but its also 1" longer axle to crown which would slack it out to 66 degrees plus the added rigidity could spell trouble for your headtube. Big companies are not stupid, Lifetime warranty doesnt always mean free. crash replacement still costs money...)
-Race Face SixC bar. 28.5" wide, low, light, and strong. Any bar with these qualities will help for shredding the gnar at speed. Unless your looking for a huck machine or DJ feel, or just go with what feels right, but for a light bike a wide bar helps put you in control better.
-Sunline 50mm stem. Shorter stem lets you get over the back end easier on the steep stuff and also keeps the bike light feeling and whippy in the air.
-Lock on grips. Pure safety, plus an easy way to customize the bike.
-Gravity Dropper. Unless your rides are up, up, up, then down, down, down. These help bring out the fun in any trail.
-38t chainring held in place with bash guard and "fixed" front derailleur as chainguide (until e.13 dmd chainguide comes out...) Running this with a 10 speed 11/36 rear so i can still climb any hill yet haul the descent.
-XT wheelset. 15qr front matches my Fox fork perfectly and 21mm rim width supports my tire choice of 2.1-2.4 width WTB tires (yes, a 2.4 Mutano tire fits back there fine. 2.3 weirwolf fits with enough room for some mud trailriding as well) The other nice thing about this wheelset is their stiffness. Other good builds would start with a solid hub (Hopes are a favorite of mine to build with) a sturdy/light rim with a wide inner width such as Stans Flow or WTB Laserdisc AM TCS, etc...and either some champion or competition spokes depending on your aggression level/terrain.
-XTR trail brakes with 7/6 rotors. Im a lightweight at 135lb in my trail riding lycra kit, but I started off in MTB 7 years ago on a DH bike as a crossover from motocross, so I can get pretty aggro on the trail.
yes, rear travel is fixed. But its still a fox so its possible PUSH could work some magic for you to make it feel more "coil" like to better suit your size, riding style, and terrain.
This bike in this set-up is A-M-A-ZING!!! I have been able to clean some suuuuper steep climbs (my garmin claims as much as 26% grade for as much as 50 feet), all day epics (5 hours in the saddle, 35+ miles, 6000+ ft of climbing), CCCX DH races, rippin descents while chasing DH'ers in Auburn, some secret ladder filled trails, 5-ish foot drops to transition, 12ft gaps along the trail, high speed babyhead rock gardens for about 200ft or so (killers on typical air shock, trust me once you take your time to dial in the sag and rebound the rp3 on the stumpy is SOLID!!)
The only reason I would wish for more bike is if i plan on racing DH or spending a whole heap of time at a lift access resort. other then that, these stumpys are DOPE!! e-mail me if you want some pics and ill try and find time to stop riding to take some ;^)