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  1. #1
    r99
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    2010 Specialized Enduro: A long term review from an average guy. (With Pics)

    A little about me:

    I rarely race. I am not affiliated with a bike shop or bike company. I love to descend fast and climb technical trails. In the past I have owned a Giant Anthem, Fuel Ex, Santa Cruz V10, round tubing DHR and Giant Glory. I have spent a little time on friends 160mm bikes too.

    I purchased a 2010 Medium Enduro Comp in August of 2010.

    I have ridden the Enduro about four times a week since it was purchased eleven months ago. Each ride includes at least a thousand feet of climbing and descending.

    The Bike:


    Photobucket


    The Build:

    Frame: Medium 2010 Enduro Comp
    Fork: Rock Shox Lyrik with Mission Control DH Rebound and Compression Damper (No Travel Adjust)
    Handlebars: Easton Haven 711mm low rise
    Stem: Race Face Atlas 70mm
    Wheels: Hadley hubs laced to Sun Singletrack rims
    Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5 EXO
    Pedals: Shimano PD-M647 DX
    Almost Everything Else: Stock
    Weight: More than thirty pounds less than forty pounds

    Key upgrades:
    If you are like me and descending is your primary goal the Enduro comp only NEEDS one change. The Lyrik performs far better with the Mission Control DH Rebound and Compression damper. It costs about 200-250 dollars.


    My take on The Geometry:

    Descending:

    The Enduro is long, low and slack. It is made to feel like a downhill bike and it does.

    The Head Tube Angle is 66.5 which is as slack or slacker than bikes like the Reign X, Nomad and Mojo HD.

    The Medium Enduro has a longer wheelbase at 45.3 Inches than may of its competitors. The Mojo HD has a wheelbase of 44.64 inches; the Reign X is 44.88 and the Santa Cruz Nomad is 44 Inches.

    The Enduro has a BB as low or lower than many other 160mm bikes at 13.78 Inches.

    Photobucket

    Climbing:

    The Endruo excels at climbing steep technical and loose trails.

    The Enduro has a steep seat tube angle, and a short chain stay.

    The steep seat tube angle is 75 degrees which is slightly less than the Trek Scratch (75.6), but is steeper than the Nomad (71.5) Reign X (72.5) and Mojo HD (71). I think the steep seat angle makes it easier to get my weight forward and keep the front end under control on steep climbs.

    The Enduroís chain stay is relatively short when compared with other bikes. I think that the short chain stay gives me better traction on steep loose climbs because my weight is on top of the rear wheel. The shorter chain stay probably makes the front wheel want to wander a little more, but on the rocky loose trails I climb rear wheel traction is more important.

    Compared with cross country bikes the Enduro is heavy, but I do not think its downhill friendly geometry takes away from its climbing abilities. My last bike was a 2008 Trek Fuel EX. I find the front end is easier to control on the Enduro on steep climbs than the Trek. Maybe the difference is I am a better rider, but I only have the Enduro to thank for that. Since I purchased the Enduro I ride more because riding is more fun.

    Photobucket

    Photobucket


    Can anyone name this trail?


    The Suspension:

    The rear suspension is very active and has been a great match for the loose rocks here in San Luis. The most important suspension quality for me is consistent traction while flat cornering. In this category it has performed better than any other bike I have ridden, including downhill bikes.

    Photobucket



    The rear suspension tracks very well through rocks and the rear triangle is stiff. It holds lines and pedals through rock gardens far better than I expected.


    Photobucket

    Photobucket


    A few Cons:

    One of the drawbacks of the stock RP2 shock (which comes on the Comp model) is it will bottom relatively easily. I weigh 145 pound with gear and run 30-33% sag. It will bottom on drops larger than 4 feet unless the transition is steep. There are a number of rear shock options to fix this, but I am so impressed with the bike's traction through loose corners that I do not feel like changing anything.

    The stock dual ring chain guide works ok. I drop my chain every couple of rides. It is not nearly as secure as the MRP G2 I use on my DH bike. Maybe my expectations are too high.

    I wish I could drop the seat post all the way to the seat collar. The stock seat post still has about 4 inches exposed when the seat post is slammed. It is not a problem for trail riding, but it would be nice if it went down farther.

    The rest of the stock components have performed up to my expectations.



    The Bottom Line:

    This bike descends extremely well and is more than capable of climbing difficult trails. It has greatly improved my descending abilities mostly by improving my confidence. Since I bought the Enduro I ride more, because this bike is so much fun to ride.


    Feel free to ask questions.

    Thanks to Niels for letting me use the camera. Thanks to Niels and Chris for taking the awesome pictures.

    Photobucket

  2. #2
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    Thanks for sharing some cool pix and ride experience with your enduro r99! Is that a lyrik 170 or 160 dh? I tried riding mine with a fox talas 180, and now a float 160. I seem to like the balance of the bike with 160mm better!! For the rear I'm still hoping to go for the monarch plus upgrade from Push in the future.

  3. #3
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    Nice write up, i just got my 2011 enduro pro and like you have said it has made riding so much more fun. Awesome bike and climbs great and bombs downhill. Really impressed and happy that i went the enduro route.

  4. #4
    r99
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaidylim View Post
    Is that a lyrik 170 or 160 dh?
    My Lyrik has 160mm of travel.

    Quote Originally Posted by jaidylim View Post
    I tried riding mine with a fox talas 180, and now a float 160. I seem to like the balance of the bike with 160mm better!!
    I think the travel on my Lyrik could be increased from 160mm to 170mm, but the bike feels very balanced with 160mm up front. I would stick to the 160mm float if I were you.

    Quote Originally Posted by jaidylim View Post
    For the rear I'm still hoping to go for the monarch plus upgrade from Push in the future.
    Fox makes a kit, where you put a plastic spacer in the rear shock to make it more progressive. You can see it here: http://www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tu...acer-2011.html

    I think I am going to give that a try before I make the expensive switch to a monarch.


    Quote Originally Posted by rcjonessnp175 View Post
    Nice write up, i just got my 2011 enduro pro and like you have said it has made riding so much more fun. Awesome bike and climbs great and bombs downhill. Really impressed and happy that i went the enduro route.
    Thanks. The Enduro is an awesome bike.

  5. #5
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    Nice review mate. I have to agree on all accounts as I have the same bike. The only real difference is I added the 125mm command post. Perfect for where I ride

    Thanks for the link on the RP seires air can spacers. Seems like an inexpensive mod to try, in fact I might machine them up myself if I cannot find them in Australia

  6. #6
    Bike's hmmm nice
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    Good write up! I have the same bike. I recognize the same benefits. I don't use it for XC. I gets out for "all mountain" and park/shuttle riding. I changed some other things to the bike:
    Coil U-turn, works superb (I kept feeling a little click when the forks came up, apparently due to direction flipping of the air seals)
    Motion controle (not really felt this yet)
    Kindshock 125mm adjust seatpost. Get one or similar, they work superb.
    Proper tires for park rides (Minion 2.5 super tacky front and Chunder 2.5 rear)
    Wider and slightly lower bar. Gives way more control for me
    Odi grips. Feel just good to hold on to
    Formula The One brakes. Love the 1 finger super action.

  7. #7
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    Sweet write up, thanks for taking the time and effort to share your thoughts on your Enduro.
    08 Enduro: '12 Van RC2, Push DHX 5 coil, Flow EX, Hope m4, 750mm bar, Blacklite Post.

    Website
    http://all-mtn.com/

  8. #8
    r99
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    Quote Originally Posted by merijn101 View Post
    Good write up! I have the same bike.
    Coil U-turn, works superb (I kept feeling a little click when the forks came up, apparently due to direction flipping of the air seals)
    Motion controle (not really felt this yet).
    Did you have the air version of the Lyrik before the coil? Can you compare the two? I really like the solo air Lyrik, but have always been interested in what other people thought of the coil version.


    Thanks for all the comments guys. It was nice to contribute to MTBR after being inactive for a while.





    Here is long distance picture of the trail where the descending pics were taken.

    Photobucket

  9. #9
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    nice review. My enduro know's what, pick n shovel and the west cuesta grade very well.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by r99 View Post
    Fox makes a kit, where you put a plastic spacer in the rear shock to make it more progressive. You can see it here: http://www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tu...acer-2011.html
    A cheaper solution is to let all the air out of the rear shock, unscrew the schrader valve core & using a syringe, squirt fork oil into the shock. Screw the valve core in & add desired amount of air pressure into the shock. Only inject fork oil in 5ml increments until the shock starts resisting bottoming out. Do not add too much fluid as this could result in hydraulic bottoming & can damage the shock. Also be sure NOT to use fork oil which has seal swelling agents.

  11. #11
    r99
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb-ripper View Post
    nice review. My enduro know's what, pick n shovel and the west cuesta grade very well.
    Left fork of pick is one of my favorites in SLO. I did some trail work last time i was up there too. On the left fork i put in a water bar and knocked down that annoying rut.

    Enjoy

  12. #12
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    Nice write up. I've had similar experiences with my 2010 Enduro Comp. The non-boostvalve RP2 is a hidden gem on the this bike.

    My trails are more buff so I run less sag, ~28%, and have only bottomed hard once, maybe I bottom other times but it is never harsh. It's hard to tell since BO is short of the full shock shaft.

    I run a 50mm stem and non-laid back Gravity Dropper for even better climbing. No need for adjustable travel forks.

    On hardpack I turn the platform on the shock and Mission Control and it feels taught like a trail bike for some fast XC.

    Heavier duty tires for NorthStar, where it did great (tho it is not a hucker there like a true park bike)

    That covers all mountain for me. Great bike.

    P

  13. #13
    Bike's hmmm nice
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    @r99 I had a bike with a coil U-turn before I bought the enduro. Rode the solo air for about 1,5 years. I could not get used to the "click" on rebound. Also a little free moment in the fork. Coil feels solid. Also seems to keep contact with the trail better. Way smoother action at the start of the travel. I just hoped I would get used to it, but just changed in the end. Only downside is you ad some weight.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndreyI52 View Post
    A cheaper solution is to let all the air out of the rear shock, unscrew the schrader valve core & using a syringe, squirt fork oil into the shock. Screw the valve core in & add desired amount of air pressure into the shock. Only inject fork oil in 5ml increments until the shock starts resisting bottoming out. Do not add too much fluid as this could result in hydraulic bottoming & can damage the shock. Also be sure NOT to use fork oil which has seal swelling agents.
    This is a great idea, but a high viscous oil can migrate into the negative air chamber and reduce the performance of the shock.

    I've heard of others using a thick grease at the top of the air chamber as it should not migrate to the negative air chamber.

    P

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    This is a great idea, but a high viscous oil can migrate into the negative air chamber and reduce the performance of the shock.

    I've heard of others using a thick grease at the top of the air chamber as it should not migrate to the negative air chamber.

    P
    You are 100% right! I read this tip in a forum for the Specialized AFR rear shock that does not have a bypass port like on a Fox rear shock. By the way, for those who may not know what the bypass port is, it is the small elongated bump visible on the outside of a Fox air canister. On the inside of the canister where the elongated bump is visible, there is a depression which allows air to bleed between the upper & lower chambers. The bleeding of air automatically sets the negative air pressure in the shock. If air can bleed through, fork oil will certainly migrate down, & is something I did not consider for this design of shock. Thanks Mr. P!

  16. #16
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    http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbik...mountain-bikes

    In this link the Specialized Enduro gets the top place in the "All Mountain" category... I own a 2001 Enduro and a 2010 Blur LTc and still enjoy riding the Specialized, the LTc pedals far better for sure, but there is a 10 years difference between both machines...
    I didnt purchase a Enduro because i was told by my LBS that it was "too extreme" for my riding (which is probably true) and they offered me a good deal on a leftover Blur LTc, if were going to do this again i would probably get a Enduro, dont get me wrong the LTc is a great bike but after 10 years of service the Enduro has proven to be a very reliable and confident inspiring machine...

    I really enjoyed your review...Thank you R99...

  17. #17
    r99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Nice write up. I've had similar experiences with my 2010 Enduro Comp. The non-boostvalve RP2 is a hidden gem on the this bike.
    Can you ride the drop on Boondocks at N* without your RP2 bottoming? I agree it is hard to tell when it bottoms.


    Quote Originally Posted by merijn101 View Post
    @r99 I had a bike with a coil U-turn before I bought the enduro. Coil feels solid. Also seems to keep contact with the trail better. Way smoother action at the start of the travel.
    Thanks for your comments. I will probably switch to a coil eventually, but I am going to wait for something to go wrong with the air assembly.


    Quote Originally Posted by rudaripu View Post
    I really enjoyed your review...Thank you R99...
    Thanks! You should try a 2010 or newer Enduro.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by r99 View Post
    Can you ride the drop on Boondocks at N* without your RP2 bottoming?
    Not the big rock drop. It does great on Livewire & Gypsy and not going huge on the other trails. It's more of a finesse bike at N* but handles it really well considering it was not designed to be a park bike.

    P

  19. #19
    r99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Not the big rock drop. It does great on Livewire & Gypsy and not going huge on the other trails. It's more of a finesse bike at N* but handles it really well considering it was not designed to be a park bike.

    P
    That sounds like what mine could handle as well. I bet it would be fun on upper Karpiel to Phodog too.

  20. #20
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    I also own a 2010 Enduro comp. And pretty much agree with your write up.
    Heres my current upgrades.
    -Mission control DH for the Lyrik and set it to 170mm.
    -Spec Enduro low rise 720 mm bars, (not the 680mm that came on the bike)
    -X9 shifters
    -Spec lopro mag 2 pedals (or whatever they are called)
    -Spec Clutch 2.3 tires (SX up front control in back)

    Im hopping to take it to Northstar this summer and try it there. But its been kicking ass on the DH trail here in Pollock pines so far. Also looking foward to doing some more MR Toads and Corral up in South lake tahoe.

  21. #21
    r99
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    Fox RP2 Volume Spacer Update

    About a Month ago I ordered the fox volume spacer kit for the RP2. Tech Tuesday - How to Install a Fox Float Air-Volume Spacer - Pinkbike.com

    Fox told me I could use all of the volume spacers for the custom length shock on the Enduo. Some combinations of shock lengths and spacer size can have problems.

    I installed the medium volume spacer following the instructions on Pinkbike without a problem. My friend used the small volume spacer for his Enduro. I think either one will work fine for anyone under 180 pounds.

    The shock no longer bottoms during aggressive trail riding. It ramps up nicely at the end of the stroke.

    As advertised the the volume spacer has not changed the small bump performance.

    I recommend this as a quick and easy fix.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by r99 View Post
    About a Month ago I ordered the fox volume spacer kit for the RP2.....The shock no longer bottoms during aggressive trail riding. It ramps up nicely at the end of the stroke.

    As advertised the the volume spacer has not changed the small bump performance.

    I recommend this as a quick and easy fix.
    Nice! +1.

    I reduced the volume as well and found more support in the midstroke as well. Nice for those pinner turns.

    P

  23. #23
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    Thanks for the write up. Nicely done!

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    Great read! I'm building up a 2008 Enduro Comp, first bike since 1999 for me. Can I expect similar fram geometry? I realize my components on this build are gonna be a big factor but am wondering if the 2008 has a similar geometry as this 2010, wheelbase, bb height, slack, etc? It's not built so I can't measure these and just wondering if I can expect similar results.

  25. #25
    r99
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    Quote Originally Posted by BexarTi29 View Post
    Thanks for the write up. Nicely done!
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Clozedeyez20 View Post
    Great read! I'm building up a 2008 Enduro Comp, first bike since 1999 for me. Can I expect similar fram geometry? I realize my components on this build are gonna be a big factor but am wondering if the 2008 has a similar geometry as this 2010, wheelbase, bb height, slack, etc? It's not built so I can't measure these and just wondering if I can expect similar results.
    The GEO on the 2010 Enduro is better suited for descending. The 2010 has a slacker head angle, a lower and a longer wheelbase. The 2010 also comes with rock shox and fox suspension rather than specialized suspension. I have heard the 2008 is still a good bike though.


    Link to the 2008 GEO:Specialized Bicycle Components : Enduro SL Comp

    Link to the 2010 GEO(Same as 2012): Specialized Bicycle Components : Enduro SL Comp

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