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  1. #1
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    2010 Enduro travel adjustable forks

    I upgraded my solo air by adding the DH mission control damper and dual flow rebound which greatly improved the performance but am now thinking of adding either a 2-step or coil u-turn to the fork to get the front of the bike a bit lower for climbing.

    My question is for those of you who have the enduro with 2 step, how do you find it, do you use it much and does it help with keeping the front end a bit more grounded on the steep climbs. I am leaning more towards the 2-step purely for the speed in which the travel can be changed as opposed to the winding of the u-trun.

    I thought of asking this in shocks and suspension but with our enduro's having such a steep seat tube angle I really wanted to here responses from those who own one

    Thanks for your input.

  2. #2
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    I would make sure your cockpit and seatpost/saddle are configured efficiently first before shelling out any money. I used to have an Enduro SL with travel adjust forks and just stopped using the lower travel mode eventually.
    Santa Cruz Blur TRc

  3. #3
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    My expert came with the 2-step and I really liked it till I tried a solo air version. The solo air was much smoother/plush and found the 2-step function a bother and just adjusted my technique on the climbs so I can leave the fork at full travel. I too did the DH dampers and also took out the 10mm travel spacer for 170mm travel and love it!

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    Hey Kealoha, did pullin out the travel spacer change how the bike rides up/down, or just give ya more travel, I am considering doing this when bebuild the Lyric on my 10 enduro. What are you runnning for a rear shock? I would love some more details on how the bike rides.
    thanks

  5. #5
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    The extra 10mm is almost invisible to me but this fork provides such a plush ride and can be tuned for any type of riding you intend to do with the enduro. I'm running a monarch plus RC3 from Push. Here's a vid of my last race.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEWrqjpTK5I

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    That a great track you were riding on. Always good to see a vid of the shocks working hard.

    Sounds like i just need to tweak my climbing style for the shorter technical climbs and maybe just convert to the u-turn to get a little more plushness but still have the option to wind down some travel for those long fire road climbs back to the top of the mountain.

    I hadn't taken much notice till this mornings ride that the stock saddle is quite short. I remember the phenom saddle on my epic enabled me to get a lot further forward without feeling like the saddle was about to give me colonoscopy.

  7. #7
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    how does the 2-step work?

    I have an 2007 Enduro SL with the E-150 fork. I used to have a Giant VT2 with a U-Turn Psylo fork. Stopping to crank on the U-Turn was annoying, so I just left it in 4-inch mode all the time as a compromise between climbing and amount of travel. My Enduro w/E150 has a feature where you turn a knob half a turn, then pump the front fork to lock it down I think over an inch. Climb the hill, turn the knob back and it slowly extends to full travel again. This can easily be done while riding and I LOVE IT. Is almost like having a Stumpjumper and Enduro all in one bike. Its so easy to do, I've never considered not doing it and don't look forward to the day that I may buy another bike and have to search for a similar feature.

    Sure, I could just deal with a long fork and fight to keep the front down on steep climbs....but why do that? This is so easy and makes long and steep climbs enjoyable on a 6-inch travel bike.

  8. #8
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    chameleoneel, The 2-step the same way as the e150 or E160 fork. It really sounds like you really find it useful.

    Thanks for your input guys

  9. #9
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    Travel adjust

    I have a 2011 expert enduro. Fox 36 float. No travel adjust. Never need it. IMO travel adjust is one more thing that can break. I have a talas 140 (adjustable) on another bike and never adjust it EVER. I would ride that bike straight 140.

    No offense to the knob twisting folks. All opinion.N

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kealoha
    The extra 10mm is almost invisible to me but this fork provides such a plush ride and can be tuned for any type of riding you intend to do with the enduro. I'm running a monarch plus RC3 from Push. Here's a vid of my last race.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEWrqjpTK5I
    Excuse my ignorance, but aren't you bottoming out real easily your fork?
    I dont know if it's user preference or what, but I have a Lyric R on my 2011 Enduro comp and found that setting propper sag gave me a fork similar to yours, and bottomed it out quite easily and felt like the nose dove in all the time. Is this user preference?
    I'm still in the tuning stage of my fork as I have only about 5 rides with my new bike, but found that if I start adding pressure to the fork so that I don't bottom it out I end up with almost no sag at all, but like the firm plush feeling I got out of it! What would a sag/bottom out compromise be? Main concern really is I don't have any sag, maybe 10mm out of the 160mm travel fork.
    Thanks beforehand!!!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicoswit
    Excuse my ignorance, but aren't you bottoming out real easily your fork?
    I dont know if it's user preference or what, but I have a Lyric R on my 2011 Enduro comp and found that setting propper sag gave me a fork similar to yours, and bottomed it out quite easily and felt like the nose dove in all the time. Is this user preference?
    I'm still in the tuning stage of my fork as I have only about 5 rides with my new bike, but found that if I start adding pressure to the fork so that I don't bottom it out I end up with almost no sag at all, but like the firm plush feeling I got out of it! What would a sag/bottom out compromise be? Main concern really is I don't have any sag, maybe 10mm out of the 160mm travel fork.
    Thanks beforehand!!!
    It is partially preference but his setup looks pretty solid. The issue with your fork is you have no damping. If you set your fork to only have 10 mm of sag your small bump performance will suck but if you are riding a trail like A-line it would be fine.

    I have the 2010 enduro comp and your same fork but I added the Mission control with flood gate and high flow rebound damper. Adding the mission control allows you to keep the small bump performance but make it harder to bottom out when you increase high and low speed compression.

    Hope this helps. Def worth spending the extra $135 to upgrade your fork. Bought my parts here:

    Outside Outfitters

  12. #12
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    The compression and rebound damper upgrade only takes about 30 minutes to complete so definitely time well spent for a better feeling fork. Just wish i could find a mission control decal to put on my fork after the upgrade

  13. #13
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    Runnning no decals makes it a sleeper fork. shhhhhhhh there are secret part inside that you don't know about.

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    Well out of curiosity I thought i would measure the HA of my enduro with different amounts of sag of the rear shock and compression of the fork to see just how much difference adding the 2-step would make.

    In the chart below "My HA" is what was measured with my digital spirit level and the actual HA was adding 0.5 to adjust to what specialized lists bases on zero sag front and rear. Dropping the front end 45mm doesn't really make the HA any steeper like I thought it would


    Last edited by brad72; 04-29-2011 at 05:45 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sirridealot
    I have a 2011 expert enduro. Fox 36 float. No travel adjust. Never need it. IMO travel adjust is one more thing that can break. I have a talas 140 (adjustable) on another bike and never adjust it EVER. I would ride that bike straight 140.

    No offense to the knob twisting folks. All opinion.N
    I too have a 2011 Enduro w/a Float 36 RLC and find no need for travel adjust. I waffled between the RCL and the Talas but decided to go w/the RLC and find the bike to climb just as well as my Stumpy did.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlkvt
    I too have a 2011 Enduro w/a Float 36 RLC and find no need for travel adjust. I waffled between the RCL and the Talas but decided to go w/the RLC and find the bike to climb just as well as my Stumpy did.
    I have a 2011 Comp with a Lyric Solo Air. I also came from a Stumpy, it had a talas on it but I never messed with the travel adjust and never felt like I needed to.

    I also find the Enduro climbs as well as my old Stumpy, sometimes better. Particulary on rocky, technical climbs.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicoswit
    Excuse my ignorance, but aren't you bottoming out real easily your fork?
    I dont know if it's user preference or what, but I have a Lyric R on my 2011 Enduro comp and found that setting propper sag gave me a fork similar to yours, and bottomed it out quite easily and felt like the nose dove in all the time. Is this user preference?
    I'm still in the tuning stage of my fork as I have only about 5 rides with my new bike, but found that if I start adding pressure to the fork so that I don't bottom it out I end up with almost no sag at all, but like the firm plush feeling I got out of it! What would a sag/bottom out compromise be? Main concern really is I don't have any sag, maybe 10mm out of the 160mm travel fork.
    Thanks beforehand!!!
    It may appear the fork is bottoming out real easily (it's not) but I tuned the fork to this course to use all of the travel for the plushest controlled ride. The mission control DH compression and rebound dampers allow you to do just the thing with the high and low speed compression adjustments. The travel indicator O ring on the left stanchion is a tuning tool for me.I set the air pressure for the proper sag and forget it and adjust the hi/low speed compression to the terrain. It's awesome!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kealoha
    It may appear the fork is bottoming out real easily (it's not) but I tuned the fork to this course to use all of the travel for the plushest controlled ride. The mission control DH compression and rebound dampers allow you to do just the thing with the high and low speed compression adjustments. The travel indicator O ring on the left stanchion is a tuning tool for me.I set the air pressure for the proper sag and forget it and adjust the hi/low speed compression to the terrain. It's awesome!
    Yes thanks, a lot, been reading about the Damper/rebound upgrade and think this will be what solves my issues. I ride more all mountian style no only downhill and imagine this can make my bike a pedal better uphill also.

    So thanks a lot!!!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicoswit
    I ride more all mountian style no only downhill and imagine this can make my bike a pedal better uphill also.

    So thanks a lot!!!
    The DH compression damper will not give you any platform so you will still get pedal bob going uphill. If you want to lockout the fork for hills get the mico with floodgate, part # 11.4015.415.010.

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