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  1. #1
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    2009 hardrock sport disc upgrade tips PLEASE



    CURRENT STOCK SETUP: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...6&menuItemId=0

    I've been riding my hardrock for about a year and I've agreed with most of the reviewers on here that the stock fork is crap. I'm building a christmas list, and this is my first serious bike and I really dont know much about what is what.

    Is there anything glaringly bad on this bike that could use an upgrade (besides fork)? my derailers and shifters seem funny but i think they just need a good cleaning and adjustment at my LBS. I never visited since I got it... am I correct in assuming that the cables stretch a little bit since brand new?

    1. brakes are bb5, i understand bb7s are much better.
    2. pedals are pretty tiny and 1 bearing might be funky.
    3. SEAT, oh god my taint needs a new seat. PLEASE SUGGEST
    4. fork: PLEASE SUGGEST (was looking at rock shox SID, recon, tora, etc)
    http://www.bikebling.com/ProductDeta...raRace-PL-Solo
    5. and some of these derailers look too sexy to pass up. How do I know about fitment and compatibility with my current stuff? do i need new shifters too?
    http://bestbikezone.com/product-list...leurs-rear-63/
    6. lookin for a good speedometer. the specialized ones at my LBS seem pretty good

    I mostly just do cross country, there are no mountains in louisiana of course, but plenty of large muddy holes and alligators to jump. I know these are alot of noob questions, but any help is appreciated. Looking forward to spending quite some time on these forums.

  2. #2
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    1. brakes are bb5, i understand bb7s are much better.
    BB7s have bigger pads and more adjustabilty. More surface area mean more braking power. So yes they will be better, to what degree is subjective.

    If upgrading to BB7s, I would go for better brake levers, cables and housing too. But for probably close to the same price you could get a set of mid-level hydraulic brakes.

    2. pedals are pretty tiny and 1 bearing might be funky.
    Clipless or platform?

    Clipless I'd go for Shimano SPD, just for durability and relaiblity
    Platform: Wellgo MG-1, super light for a platform,

    3. SEAT, oh god my taint needs a new seat. PLEASE SUGGEST
    That made me laugh, thanks

    Specialized Phenom or WTB Devo if you want a lightweight seat. They take a bit to get used to but are really comfortable when you do. Any WTB seat...power, speed, seems really comfortable to me. Been riding the same WTB speed V seat for 4 years

    4. fork: PLEASE SUGGEST (was looking at rock shox SID, recon, tora, etc)
    No SID unless you're racing or a weight weenie. Recon and Tora 318 have the same dampener. More or less a weight difference here and the Reba is an option there. Air/Coil...whichever you prefer really. Which ever you choose make sure you get the Motion Control Dampener. Also look into Manitou Minute Elite (w/TPC), good fork also, don't know how much they go for.

    5. and some of these derailers look too sexy to pass up. How do I know about fitment and compatibility with my current stuff? do i need new shifters too?
    Basicly. SRAM rear derailleur must go with Sram rear shifter. Shimano rear derailleur must go with Shimano rear shifter. SRAM or Shimano front derailleur can go with SRAM or Shimano front shifter. Yes there is the SRAM attack rear shifters that will work with Shimano rear derailuers...but whats they point?

    6. lookin for a good speedometer. the specialized ones at my LBS seem pretty good
    I used a Cateye Enduro for a few years before it got stolen. Worked fine, Specialized speedo probably has more features though.

  3. #3
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    Price point has the BB7's for 40 and the bb5s for 32. http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/187...t_Rer-2009.htm

    I am glad to hear someone else hates the seat on their hard rock. The Spec seat I am sore after riding, the WTB seat on my GT I do not get sore after a ride.

  4. #4
    cougarbait
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    buy a new bike
    you'll get a lot more for your money
    the hardrock frame is pretty mediocre at best, especially since it is designed to be matched with a 80mm fork
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  5. #5
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    thanks so much for all the info, yall

    lamb, im not gonna buy a new bike. I planned on upgrading this one in the first place. From looking through the user reviews on here, lots of people upgrade the fork on this bike and enjoy it alot. I'm not made of money, especially at a time like this, so I'm doing a little at a time.

    for rear derailleur, do I want a long, medium, or small cage? looking at a good deal for a x.9 or x.0. keeping my x-4 triggers because I think all the higher models are 9 and 10 speed only
    Last edited by DJpattiecake; 11-15-2009 at 06:53 PM.

  6. #6
    spec4life???..smh...
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    1. BB7s would be a nice upgrade but not where id start...
    2. This is one of the top things you should probably change first...ID look at a shimano 545 for clipless or any wellgo for platform
    3. Go ahead and put this at the top of the list to...WTB is good also sette has some fairly light ones for cheap but no idea of comfort
    4. As far as forks go a SID is way to high end to put on this bike...look at the tora
    5.id pass on the deraileurs..i know there cool but just get the ones you got tuned up and you should be fine for now..at most just get a rear one
    6. I thought id add before i got any deraillers or even fork id look at some new tires and wheels..you can save alot of weight here which makes pedaling all that much easier...

  7. #7
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    I didnt even think about wheels. good idea. Your advice is well received. Researching and researching.

    What are benefits of air fork vs coil?

  8. #8
    cougarbait
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJpattiecake
    thanks so much for all the info, yall

    lamb, im not gonna buy a new bike. I planned on upgrading this one in the first place. From looking through the user reviews on here, lots of people upgrade the fork on this bike and enjoy it alot. I'm not made of money, especially at a time like this, so I'm doing a little at a time.

    for rear derailleur, do I want a long, medium, or small cage? looking at a good deal for a x.9 or x.0. keeping my x-4 triggers because I think all the higher models are 9 and 10 speed only
    good luck..
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  9. #9
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    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/112...lleur-2009.htm

    closout prices arent bad. BUT im realizing that derailleur is pretty far down on my list. no need to be such a raincloud

  10. #10
    iRonic
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    Lam does have a point, DJ. If you aren't happy with the specs on the Hardrock anymore, you're best bet is to start saving the cash you'd throw at the HR and take it in later for a trade in on a better spec'ed bike.

    Unless you're hopelessly attached to the HR, of course. Then by all means, upgrade away!
    Ron

  11. #11
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    thats just the thing. im a beginner getting into this. I like doing upgrades and learning as I go. I plan to stick with this frame and try out new things.

    and I dont have a huge problem with spending some money on nice upgrades since I plan on moving them over to my next bike (as long as I get something they will fit on)

    a few good deals I found.

    2008 Tora 318 Solo air $249 (this is prolly my best bet right now)
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/192...o-Air-2008.htm

    or newer 2009 tora SL solo air $305
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/185...o-Air-2009.htm

    2008 Reba team dual air $379
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/172...-Fork-2008.htm

    or domain coil 279
    http://jensonusa.com/store/product/F...2+Fork+Oe.aspx

    pedals wellgo mg-1, mg-52, or b103
    saddle WTB laser V
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/178...ails-Black.htm

    time to start lookin at wheels

  12. #12
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    The weakest part of your bike is the wheels and the fork, everything else should last you, unless you are a utter maniac or are 400 lbs. I dont think you are either, because if you were you likely would have bought a better bike.


    Fork then Wheels.


    As for if you need new drivetrain parts, do you feel they would benefit you? Do your current parts not work?

    if they dont work properly and still dont with a tuneup then go for new drive train parts, but if they work fine and do what they are supposed to do then take that money and save up for your next bike. You have a heavy frame, lighter parts will not really help you in the long run.


    Already you will spend

    $300 on new wheels
    $250 on a new Fork
    $90 on BB7's

    That's already $640 on just parts, then if you sell the bike and get a a bit more you are half way to something like a Specilized Pitch.


    Some good advice somebody posted here a dfew days ago, no matter what you put on your bike it is still a hardrock and will still be entry level. You reach a point that even if you did sell you would be incredibly unlikely to get back what you paid or even close.

  13. #13
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    the weakest part isn't that, if hes upgrade the bottleneck in his bike is his frame. he can upgrade everything to something good and light but his frame will still be heavy as hell. (i used that same frame in the past)

    if u MUST keep your frame, and upgrade everything else, go with a fork (get a lightweight recon or reba, so at least u can move them to ur new bike when u get one) then after that maybe wheels/crankset. just replace all the suntour crap on the bike.

    by upgrading these parts, you'll be spending $400ish, think about it, you can sell your bike now for $250, and spend $400 on ur next bike and get a rockhopper comp disc = good frame to live with and upgrade with!
    RH SL Pro

  14. #14
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    getting a rockhopper next was my plan. I'll be able to bring over an upgraded fork / seat / pedals to it. im not gonna spend any more than that on parts. what I have works, I just had a bug in my head telling me to upgrade, lol. To get a good deal I should try to buy a previous year model right? Theres 1 specialized shop here, and a few across the lake in new orleans, so when it comes time for a new frame I should be able to find one. Whats the best month to get closeout prices? Thanks for helping me out guys

  15. #15
    iRonic
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    I'd be curious if anyone has an accurate weight number for the newer Hardrock frames (2009+)....

    I realize they're going to be heavier than the M4-5's, etc but they can't be that much heavier, can they?
    Ron

  16. #16
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    dont have a weight but my P.1 AM Disc (very similar) weighed 31-32 lbs
    RH SL Pro

  17. #17
    cougarbait
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJpattiecake
    thats just the thing. im a beginner getting into this. I like doing upgrades and learning as I go. I plan to stick with this frame and try out new things.

    and I dont have a huge problem with spending some money on nice upgrades since I plan on moving them over to my next bike (as long as I get something they will fit on)

    a few good deals I found.

    2008 Tora 318 Solo air $249 (this is prolly my best bet right now)
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/192...o-Air-2008.htm

    or newer 2009 tora SL solo air $305
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/185...o-Air-2009.htm

    2008 Reba team dual air $379
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/172...-Fork-2008.htm

    or domain coil 279
    http://jensonusa.com/store/product/F...2+Fork+Oe.aspx

    pedals wellgo mg-1, mg-52, or b103
    saddle WTB laser V
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/178...ails-Black.htm

    time to start lookin at wheels
    -the SL/302 is inferior to the 318/race. do not get a SL/302 the damper is crap
    -a domain would be a very bad idea. remember the HR frame is meant for 80mm
    -go clipless
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  18. #18
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    my LBS has a navy blue 2008 rockhopper base model for 490. Is this a good frame?\
    I could prolly haggle them down a bit. gonna go by and check it out. How much could I get for my bike you think?

  19. #19
    cougarbait
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJpattiecake
    my LBS has a navy blue 2008 rockhopper base model for 490. Is this a good frame?\
    I could prolly haggle them down a bit. gonna go by and check it out. How much could I get for my bike you think?
    it's an A1
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  20. #20
    2010 RockHopper Comp Disc
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    Is the rockhopper really even that much better than the hardrock, I know its lighter and a bit stronger but is it worth a upgrade. Im really not sure, I dont think so.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJpattiecake
    my LBS has a navy blue 2008 rockhopper base model for 490. Is this a good frame?\
    I could prolly haggle them down a bit. gonna go by and check it out. How much could I get for my bike you think?
    480 is too much for a 2008 base RH w/ A1 Frame. my lbs was selling a 2009 base RH w/ M4 frame for $499 no tax before the 2010's came out...

    i would pay $400 for that or less, which is the price of a 2009/2010 Hardrock, they're basically the same bike...

    why not shoot for a 2009 rockhopper comp for $500-600?
    RH SL Pro

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisssss
    why not shoot for a 2009 rockhopper comp for $500-600?
    theres 3 shops around here that carry specialized they dont have alot of previous years models left. isnt shipping a bike a giant pain? can you even order specialized bikes from online retailers?

    some bike shop in the french quarter has a 2009 black base RH but they want 600 for it, bleh

    the 2008 base RH says its an m4 frame, what exactly does a1 mean

  23. #23
    spec4life???..smh...
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeaverTail
    Is the rockhopper really even that much better than the hardrock, I know its lighter and a bit stronger but is it worth a upgrade. Im really not sure, I dont think so.
    agreed...it is better but not worth upgrade..if u were to upgrade the entire bike u would want to jump up a couple levels..

    The fact is there is nothing wrong with upgrading the bike u have...just keep it reasonable..i try not to spend more on upgrades than about 1/2 to 3/4 of what i paid but no more than my basis for the bike..

    its beggining to get old every time i look at a thread where someone is looking to spend a little upgrading their bike and all i see is people telling them it aint sh8t, isnt worth the effort, and they need a new bike...and by the end of the thread the person is looking around for a new bike and i suspect eventually they just get frustrated and give up on the whole endevour...

    forget the new bike thats not what ur lookin to do right now..buy some upgrades and it will make u (almost) as happy as a new bike...

  24. #24
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    spec4life has read my mind. still im gonna throw my hardrock on craigs to see what I can get, get my lbs to hold the rockhopper for me, and start my upgrades from there. My hardrock feels like a ton of bricks. When i went and rode the rockhopper it was a million times better. I'm not gonna splurge on a much higher model. I'm gonna start with the base and poke around with upgrades from there. Thanks so much for everyones help, I know everyone has a different opinion on upgrades/new bike/omg quit wasting money, and I've hopefully arrived at the right decision for me.

    Gonna try to get 300 on craigs for my HR because this community is rich as hell, part of the reason my lbs sells previous models for a little more than other areas.

    this just in: http://www.geartrade.com/item/106373
    anyone ever use geartrade?

  25. #25
    cougarbait
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    Quote Originally Posted by spec4life
    agreed...it is better but not worth upgrade..if u were to upgrade the entire bike u would want to jump up a couple levels..

    The fact is there is nothing wrong with upgrading the bike u have...just keep it reasonable..i try not to spend more on upgrades than about 1/2 to 3/4 of what i paid but no more than my basis for the bike..

    its beggining to get old every time i look at a thread where someone is looking to spend a little upgrading their bike and all i see is people telling them it aint sh8t, isnt worth the effort, and they need a new bike...and by the end of the thread the person is looking around for a new bike and i suspect eventually they just get frustrated and give up on the whole endevour...

    forget the new bike thats not what ur lookin to do right now..buy some upgrades and it will make u (almost) as happy as a new bike...
    a rockhopper (SL for 2010) frame is the same as a previous generation stumpjumper, the top of the line spec hardtail (with M4 instead of M5)
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  26. #26
    iRonic
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    I can't wait for a Hardrock Expert Carbon!

    Same 10 pound fork and 4 pound crankset from SR Suntour, but less than half the frame weight!
    Ron

  27. #27
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    sold my hardrock for 300 within 30 minutes of putting it on craigslist. Lined up purchase of lightly used 2009 rockhopper comp disc for 550 shipped. awesome

  28. #28
    cougarbait
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    congrats
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJpattiecake
    sold my hardrock for 300 within 30 minutes of putting it on craigslist. Lined up purchase of lightly used 2009 rockhopper comp disc for 550 shipped. awesome
    NICE! the blue one right? congrats!
    RH SL Pro

  30. #30
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    nah the blue was a base model 2008 for 490

    im getting 2009 RH comp disc in satin black
    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...0&menuItemId=0 for 500

    its a 23" but im 6'2" with long legs. been riding 21 this should be fine


  31. #31
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    Congrats on the new bike. You'll be very happy with the Rockhopper. You'll be able to get alot more out of future upgrades on the Rockhopper than on the Hardrock. And just think, you got a nicer frame with better components for less money out-of-pocket than you would have upgrading the Hardrcok.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by joker969
    you got a nicer frame with better components for less money out-of-pocket than you would have upgrading the Hardrcok.
    exactly

  33. #33
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    nice bike, now!!!! what time should we get together to talk about what upgrades you're gunna get? how about get rid of that noodly heavy dart 3
    RH SL Pro

  34. #34
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    lol and replace with... lemme guess a recon?

  35. #35
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    well u can start with a Tora 318 for $250... Solo Air or Coil U-turn 85-130mm version
    RH SL Pro

  36. #36
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    so the RH comp disc comes with a x-5 medium cage. Will that be pretty good for eliminating cable slap? I think I've only ever rode on long cages. Could I fit a short cage on 24 speed with 11-32t cassette?

  37. #37
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    there is still a lot of chain slap. you'll need a chainstay protector as the bike does not come with one

    you can fit a short cage with a 11-32T if you remove your big chainring and keep it 22/32T up front, though that is running it at the limits of a short cage
    even with a short cage, there is still chain slap
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  38. #38
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    yeah i figured i could get a chainstay to protect my frame and eliminate alot of noise. definately sticking with a medium

  39. #39
    2010 RockHopper Comp Disc
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    The only problem I have with my rockhopper is chain suck when in non approved gears. Ive never had any chain slap. BTW, I highly suggest you don't get a new fork as of yet. At least see how the Dart works for you before you go and buy a tora.


    What type of riding do you do? The Rockhoppers biggest weakness is its wheels and if you ride even semi hard you will notice this all to fast. Are you sure a 23" bike is the right size for you?, im 6'2" and I ride a 19". Have a friend who is 6'6" and he rides a 23". If you are doing only XC then you should be fine, but if you are doing any type of rocky descents you are going to be thrown around. If you can stand over the top tube and lift the bike 1-2" of the ground into your groin,then disregard what I have said. But if you cant even stand over the top tube, reconsider.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJpattiecake
    3. SEAT, oh god my taint needs a new seat. PLEASE SUGGEST
    Saddles are a very personal preference but a Specialized Phenom saddle with the central cutout could be worth trying on your new Rockhopper. If you go to a Specialized dealer they have an "assometer" to measure how wide your sit bones are to choose the correct width. New saddles take a few rides to break in.

    Along with the saddle a pair of padded cycling shorts makes a big difference to comfort whilst riding. You can get baggy shorts that look normal when off the bike if you don't want to wear lycra cycling shorts. It's the padded shorts that really help with comfort to reduce chafing.

    Other things to think about for upgrades are tyres with a tread pattern that suit your riding conditions and shoes/ pedals that give you confidence when riding. Either flat pedals with grippy skate shoes or clipless SPD pedals and MTB cycling shoes.

    Pictured below:

    Altura padded cycling shorts
    Specialized Phenom saddle
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2009 hardrock sport disc upgrade tips PLEASE-phenomsl.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images

  41. #41
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    beaver, what do you mean by non-approved gears? like big-big and small-small?

    and wr304, i really like the look of those shorts but I can only find them in women's sizes. any pointers? that seat looks quite lightweight a little more than i wanted to spend on a seat tho. gonna try a WTB V laser pro for 55 bucks

  42. #42
    cougarbait
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    wear cycling shorts equipped with a chamois, wear baggy shorts over them if you feel self-conscious

    pricepoint is having a decent sale on some selle italias
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  43. #43
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    That pic is either Altura Altitude or Altura Ascent shorts which are available in mens sizes. They have a padded insert built into them. There are lots of other similar models from other manufacturers also.

    This link has pics of the different models. You should be able to find most of them available in the US I'd have thought.

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/c/cycle/7/Shorts_-_Baggy/

    To try and reduce chain slap on descents put the chain onto the big front chainring and one of the larger sprockets at the rear. You could also take a couple of links out to make the chain tighter. If you do that remember never to use the big ring/ largest rear sprocket combination! The more tension on the chain the less likely it is to hit the frame.

    You could consider wrapping an old inner tube around the chainstay and maybe the lower rear seat stay also. It will protect the paintwork and the chain hitting the rubber inner tube should be a little quieter than having the chain hitting plastic or metal.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJpattiecake
    beaver, what do you mean by non-approved gears? like big-big and small-small?
    One really should never use 1x[3-8] or 3x[1-6] where (chain ring x cog). Doing so puts to much strain on the chain. Most Broken Chains are caused by such use, its always a good idea just to stay in Chain ring 2 as you can use all cogs of the rear cassette.
    Last edited by BeaverTail; 11-19-2009 at 04:22 PM.

  45. #45
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    this is the best forum ever. i learn more here in a few posts than i do talking to the doofus at my LBS for an hour

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeaverTail
    What type of riding do you do? The Rockhoppers biggest weakness is its wheels and if you ride even semi hard you will notice this all to fast. Are you sure a 23" bike is the right size for you?, im 6'2" and I ride a 19". Have a friend who is 6'6" and he rides a 23". If you are doing only XC then you should be fine, but if you are doing any type of rocky descents you are going to be thrown around. If you can stand over the top tube and lift the bike 1-2" of the ground into your groin,then disregard what I have said. But if you cant even stand over the top tube, reconsider.
    beav when i stood over a 23 at the store i still had about an inch of clearance to my precious bits. like I said, I have long legs, and as for rocky descents, there are neither rocks nor descents in my state, just great trails. I think i'll be fine on this 23

  47. #47
    mtbr member
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    find a new LBS...

    you should get nice pinned pedals and thick grips first.

    get yourself a Magicshine light, and a taillight so you can ride at night

    shin guards, gloves and helmet

    more often then none, the position of your seat matters more than the seat itself. If incorrectly set, you can have pains in your ass and even back. so if your seatpost is non adjustable, get a seat post

  48. #48
    mtbr member
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    umm ok... I dont ride at night, and i'm not hardcore enough to warrant shin guards and gloves. thanks anyway

  49. #49
    Binghamton '14
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    141
    ok if your upgrading the seat, get whatever i have on my rockhopper, idk what it is but when i find out ill tell you, it is really comfortable unlike the FSR's seat.
    Specialized 05 FSR XC Comp: Modded
    Specialized 08 FSR XC Comp: OEM
    Cannondale M700: In pieces

  50. #50
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJpattiecake
    umm ok... I dont ride at night, and i'm not hardcore enough to warrant shin guards and gloves. thanks anyway
    Don't get thick grips either, get grips that fit your hand. Most of the time hand pain/finger pain comes from the grips being to large.

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