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  1. #1
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    2008 Specialized Enduro - Questions

    Good/bad points?
    Might be able to get a used one, and want some more details?

    Thanks
    **** Looking for a Sram 9.0SL rear hub *****

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    What kind of riding do you do?

    This bike is pretty capable with heavier wheels, different rear shock, and wider bars. I ride this bike everywhere, from xc trails to light dh trails I've done it on this bike. The bike has awesome geo for climbing to the top of the trails and is good for long rides.

    Good points; dual crown makes it very stiff and helps when landing jumps wrong, going through rock gardens and hitting chatter bumps at speed. When set up properly it does a decent job at absorbing small bumps to medium hits(2 ft drops).

    E150 fork, this is a plus and a minus and really comes down to how you ride.

    Downside; I wish it had a 1 degree slacker headtube angle for more aggressive riding. If setting up the fork to absorb larger hits(4ft+), the fork doesn't do a good job at absorbing the small stuff. But setting it up to absorb the smaller stuff, it will bottom out on the larger hits(4ft+). Adjust-ability wise there aren't enough settings if your a perfectionist like myself, my rear dhx coil I have gotten to perfection with, cant do it with my fork. Reliability has been decent, fork lasted a good 7 months before a seal went out and started leaking oil, it still rode ok even then. Put about 1k miles on it. Gonna cost me $120 to have it serviced.

    The E150 fork is a pure hit and miss, love/hate relationship. Because of the inability to set the fork up to absorb small stuff but still be able to withstand the larger hits, kind of sinks. But if you ride trails that have no higher than 4ft drops, the fork will work fine.

    The bike has a 100 percent positive rating from myself, a good shock curve and a low leverage ratio really makes the rear end of this bike come alive and it eats up everything in its path(with a different shock other than the afr it comes with). The only things setting this bike back is the rear AFR shock, and the E150 fork depending on your riding. Other than that this bike offers a great package, and a very decent do everything bike. And a very good in between bike if you have a dh bike.

  3. #3
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    ^^Agree with pretty much everything Camarosam said, however I'm still using the AFR shock. It's biggest drawback is small bump stuff, but it's still not a bad shock, especially if you service it regularly with fresh grease which is very easy to do.

    As for the E150, mine is now 2.5 years old and still going well, but once again it benefits alot from a regular basic clean and service. I've put a little more oil (about 40-50cc) in the stanchions to help with bottoming a bit off drops up to about 6ft. It's really good a letting you plow through rough trail, and doesn't flex like other skinny single crowns sometimes do.

    The absolute first thing you should do if the bike is stock is change to a stronger rim. Those 420's are total rubbish.

    All in all I think it's a great all-mountain bike, but maybe if you intend on riding super-steep downhill stuff and bigger drops (6ft +), look for something a little burlier with a slacker head angle. Other than that it climbs well, decends well, and is a fun bike to ride!

  4. #4
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    The '07 - '09 SL is a killer frame. As a one bike does it all sort of deal, I think you'll love it. Its also great if you want a bike that can be slack, but not toooo slack. It has two shock positions to customize this to your taste.

    The E-150 is great. If you get an SL that comes with it, be very happy. Ride the crap out of it a few times and figure out if there is anything you don't like about it. Then, send it in for Specialized's S-tune service. Its a custom job where you tell them how you want the fork to feel/wish it would feel and they tune it to your requests.

    PM the user speci-suspension tech to ask any questions about this. Or go to a bike shop and have them get Specialized on the phone.

    I never had huge problems with the E-150, but I did have a couple of complaints even after the free '08 internals upgrade:

    1. It was too linear. Just popping off a curb would blow through travel like nothing. The fork would just use too much travel and I felt like it rode a little low because of this, which was especially noticeable on downhills.

    2. In addition to being too linear, I never felt like it rebounded hard enough, even at full fast setting. So overall it wasn't a very predicatble or positive feel and it felt like too much work to loft the front tire or make quick line adjustments.

    I'm a lightweight rider at about 160lbs in full gear. They gave me a lightweight rider tune, which includes a lighter weight spring for more adjustment range according to my weight.

    The rebound feels much more positive and the fork rides much higher in its travel now and I guess is more progressive because it doesn't blow through travel like it used to.

    I also blindly requested something called the "Mick Mod". I'm not 100% clear on what it does, but I think it had something to do with improving oil flow through the dampers, probably for better sensitivity through the range of adjustments.

    My E-150 is now perfect. No complaints at all. I will be sad if/when I have to use a different fork. If I do ever get a different bike or a different fork, I will make sure to get one with a similar travel adjust feature. With the E-150 you can drop and subsequently raise the travel an inch or so while riding. This gets you in a steeper position to climb. With this feature, I've been able to climb some steep hills without having to fight the front end. Its like having stumpjumper right there with you.


    In my oppinion, the AFR shock ultimately cannot be helped. Its ok, but I've never been able to completely erase any of its problems and it ultimately holds the bike back. I personally bought a Manitou Evolver ISX-6 and cannot sing enough praises for its magical qualities. But other people have had some good results with Fox shocks as well.

  5. #5
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    Agree with everyone above. The Enduro is a fantastic do-it-all bike. I have had problems with the rear shock losing air, and with the height adjust on the e150, but the last round of maintenance with Specialized seemed to resolve them for good.

    I do wish for a better rear shock, but the fork is fantastic. Solid, stiff, and very plush. You will love it...

  6. #6
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    I built up an 07 S-Works SL last winter and put about 650miles on it this year including many 20+ mile rides with over 4,000ft elevation gain.

    Mine has a 08 Talas (160/130/100) 36 RC2 and RP23 Pushed. I have never road with the E150 and AFR shock.

    For me the strong points are climbing ability and two shock positions. Like I mentioned I've done some serious climbs of over 4,000ft and the bike climbs it well. My bike weighs 30lbs and has some fairly heavy UST tires, so it's no weight weenie.

    The 2 shock positions really change the bike from XC/Trail to AM bike. The difference in HA is huge, especially in the rough steep stuff.

    The DT 420's like mentioned are way too narrow and weak for this bike. I built mine up with Mavic 819's on DT hubs, 240 Rear, 340 Front. Much better for this bike.

    I've also road with some serious XC racers and blew them away with it's ability. They thought I would have no chance keeping up with them but in the end I proved them wrong. After the ride they all checked out my bike thinking it was setup really light

    I would definitely not hesitate to buy this bike again. With a proper build kit it's a perfect do-it-all bike
    www.quinnphoto.smugmug.com
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  7. #7
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    The only bad thing at all that I can say about the frame itself is there are better suspension designs for square edged bumps. But get a good shock on there and that problem is isolated as the only weakness that I have noticed.

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    Maybe it is just bad luck. By I am on my third rear shock due to warranty. The seals keep blowing out and it won't hold air. Knocking on wood I will say the current one has been good for a bit, but had I bought it used I wouldn't have had access to the warranty....

  9. #9
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    boston boy - try one of these http://www.pushindustries.com/2009/i...ent&title=PUSH Tuned Air Shocks
    www.quinnphoto.smugmug.com
    07 S-Works Enduro SL - Sold
    08 Epic Marathon - Sold
    2012 Stumpy EVO 29er frame up build

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by chameleoneel
    The only bad thing at all that I can say about the frame itself is there are better suspension designs for square edged bumps. But get a good shock on there and that problem is isolated as the only weakness that I have noticed.
    Not really. You have to put into effect link design, link ratio, and the shock curve.

    The new demo 8 reacts much better to square edge hits because of the link ratio and a slightly different shock curve. So even though both the 2010 and 2011 demo 8s have the same fsr design, the rear link acts differently.

    You cant compare links unless you counter in all three of the variables, which no one ever does.

    I've found my bike floats over square edge hits, my bike is in total silence when going through brake chatter and what not. If your bike is making noise down the majority of the trail, its time to change the settings on you shock. The only time my bike makes noise is when I'm riding a new trail and don't know the exact settings it should be on.

  11. #11
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    I'm not sure what the noise comments are, I mean my bike doesn't make excessive noise down the trail or anything.

    I was just saying that I've ridden bikes in the past that have done a little better job floating over some of the chunkier squared hits. For example, the Giant VT2 that I had. With the AFR, the bike had trouble with all bumps. Now that I have a great shock, its weakness seems to be isolated to certain squared hits. maybe I was wrong in blaming the bike...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chameleoneel
    I'm not sure what the noise comments are, I mean my bike doesn't make excessive noise down the trail or anything.

    I was just saying that I've ridden bikes in the past that have done a little better job floating over some of the chunkier squared hits. For example, the Giant VT2 that I had. With the AFR, the bike had trouble with all bumps. Now that I have a great shock, its weakness seems to be isolated to certain squared hits. maybe I was wrong in blaming the bike...
    Not trying to create a link war, was just stating. There probably are a couple links out there that would be better on square edge hits, but I was just stating that there is more to the feel of the link than just the link itself.

    I was referring to chain noise and brake lines rattling against the frame. I will agree, the afr didn't cut it one cent, I seriously thought I needed an 8" travel bike for the riding I was doing. All it took was the best $300 investment into this bike to truly wake it up.

  13. #13
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    again, I'm not sure what chain and cable noise have anything to do with the feel/performance of the suspension. Modern big tube bikes can be noisy, due to the large modern tubes carrying sound well (my VT came stock with a seatpost shim. The creaking was really loud and difficult to locate as a noob, because the tubes carried that sound like like they were designed for it!). Horst link bikes are known to be some of the noisier rides.

  14. #14
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    The noise of the chain has everything to do with the setup of our rear shock. Adjust your rebound and put it on full fast, or put more air into your shock than you would normally. Your chain will make twice the noise going down the trail. Now in certain areas of your trail your chain is going to make noise because the trail is just too rough or the settings that you like aren't set up for that area. But try this out and see what I mean, this is what I have experienced while tunning my rear shock. When the rear wheel disappears from beneath you, the chain is dead silent, when the rear doesn't feel as plush you hear the chain.

    All in all a bike is usually pretty quiet, I'm referring to mostly chain noise. My cables rattle in the front because my fork needs to be serviced and isn't doing a very good job absorbing hits.

  15. #15
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    OH! yeah that makes sense!

    Usually though when riding bad suspension, I'm too distracted with the seat jamming into my butt, sending vibrations up into my head and jaws, to notice the chain noise and derailler noise >_>

  16. #16
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    The suspension on the 07-09 Enduros is poor at best. You have to run 40% sag to get the suspension to react at all. You will notice how they changed it for the pitch to work correctly by steepening up the angle of the rocker link. You either want a 2006 (or the like) or a 2010 or later or buy a pitch.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JefedelosJefes
    The suspension on the 07-09 Enduros is poor at best. You have to run 40% sag to get the suspension to react at all. You will notice how they changed it for the pitch to work correctly by steepening up the angle of the rocker link. You either want a 2006 (or the like) or a 2010 or later or buy a pitch.
    My 07sl is as plush as hell with the DHX 5.0 installed (ti spring).

    It sucked with the AFR.
    Santa Cruz Blur TRc

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JefedelosJefes
    The suspension on the 07-09 Enduros is poor at best. You have to run 40% sag to get the suspension to react at all. You will notice how they changed it for the pitch to work correctly by steepening up the angle of the rocker link. You either want a 2006 (or the like) or a 2010 or later or buy a pitch.
    The AFR shock is the problem.

    I run the Manitou Evolver ISX-6, which is not a shock you set by sag. Set properly for great small bump compliance and it rides higher than any shock I've ever ridden. It also tends to not impress with an off the bike "seat test".

    but once you get on and start riding, the magic happens.

  19. #19
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    i love mine, but i've got fox suspension through and through. i did an 87km ride last year with a totem and the shock in the slack position. it really can do it all. mine weighs in at around 29# or less with a 2011 36 float and an rp23. the only improvement i can think of is getting the shock pushed.

  20. #20
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    Glad I found this thread! Am looking at an 07 Enduro SL. The manual states the shock is a 8.75" x 2.5". I'm finding this size to be quite rare when it comes to air shocks. It's easy to find the same length shocks with 2.75" strokes, or shorter 8.5" shocks with either 2.5" or 2.0" strokes.

    Those of you, who have changed your shocks, what did you get? I'm thinking the shorter shock with the same stroke might be doable. I definitely would not want the shorter, 2.0" stroke. The longer, 2.75" stroke seems like it might give too much travel.

  21. #21
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    7.875 x 2.25

    This is the shock size for the 07-09 enduro sl.

  22. #22
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    Camarosam!

    How could Specialized make such an egregious error in the owner's manual? I see that the specs listed on the site are a 7.875 x 2.25 shock, but in the owner's manual - "FSR - 2007 Enduro SL FSR Manual," it lists the shock dimensions as 8.75 x 2.5?!

    Thanks very much for your correction.

  23. #23
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    I have no idea. I have never looked at my owner's manual so I wouldn't know if mines says the same.

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    greeting getns,

    I see that fellower Enduro 07, 08, and 09(SL) owners have all chime in about the E150 & AFR shock! I might as well chime in too.. because I want to participate in the fun.. hehehe.

    (But first I want to mention that only the 09 SL model comes with the E150 forks)

    Anyway I have an 07 S-Works SL but I'm a light rider at <130 lbs naked, so some of my experiences with the bike might not apply some... since some people eat 130 lbs of food for breakfast alone hehe j/k.

    Regarding the AFR / rear end:
    When I had it (had), I thought it was great. Set it to soft (my settings, which means an average rider would sink it down 2/3!) and and I have no problem with most AM trails on the down. I did have a few moments when the trail was bumpy, fast, and I have to make a turn, this is when I noticed that i'm lacking confidence in the rear traction (causing me to stand the bike up and slide the rear in order to make the turn, but this in itself is quite a fun exercise in drifting too.. because it feels nice drifting.. unless of course you're racing against the clock which lose you time). Now I got rid of the AFR and put on the Marzzochi Roco TST Air, which has huge volume air can, and a wider shaft! Boy, this thing feels almost like a coil to me now! In fact I like the Roco TST over a coil because air offers great on-the-fly PSI adjustability, which I prefer because I do use this bike for some dirt jumping fun with the 12-17 year old kiddies too! The Roco definitely tracks better than the AFR, I can now have the confidence to slide and drift sideway (at some speed) without having to think about dipping a foot down so much.

    My advice for those with AFR and want a cheap yet capable alternative, just go to ebay and look for a busted up DHX, ISX, .. buy it for cheap.. and send it in Pushed to have it overhauled! They'll fix her up good!


    Regarding the E150 / front end:
    the e150 is IMO the best 150mm travel forks out there for aggressive AM riding. The e150 does not have separate external slow and fast rebound adjustments, it only has the external fast rebound knob. For slow rebound adjustment, unfornately this has to be done via the internal spike valve, which will require you to send the fork in for the "factory service" (tell them your weight and you riding style and they'll adjust this spike valve accordingly. I think you can even adjust this spike valve psi yourself too if you're willing to take the forks apart and know what you're doing). But when I sent in my forks, I told them to tune it for a 150lbs rider (even though I'm 130 lbs) because I like my front stiff.. and I will now have to live with a less than ideal slow-speed rebound.. but that's totally acceptable to me because I have learned to compensate for this by being more active with using my arms and legs as suspension!.. Now if I was racing,, then yeah I want a perfect front end setup for fast and slow speed, but let's be real, i'm a weekend warrior.

    But with a short travel double crown (150 mm for a double crown is short), this bike owns in the roughs (whether picking a line or plow her through!) AND it owns in wide corners because after a while you're thinking screw it I'm gonna drift this thing, and a stiff front end (double crown) and a wide bar (mine is 750mm) you have more confidence to fist the bar and let the bike drift. Try doing that with a single forks with consistent confidence on an unknown trails!

    I have not been able to bottom out my forks on 4-6 ft drops! But keep in mind I'm only 130 and having the forks tune for a 150. Because 4-6ft is about all i'm looking and capable of doing anyway, I'm thinking of having Specialized tune it for a 140 lbs person the next time I sent it in so I can better utilize the rest of the travel on it. This IMO is the only draw back on the E150 (can't do external slow speed adjustment, but still can do internal adjmustment at a co$t though.).

    Geometry of bike:
    bike has 67deg head angle, which is fine with me. I haven't gotten into a situation where I think a 1 deg decrease in head angle would have saved my ass yet. Usually if it's a mistake, it's me going over my head and a 66 or 65 or 64 deg head angle wouldn't have saved me anyway. But on the climb, anything over 10 deg grade, a 67 deg HA is quite tough, the front will lift and float as you put the torque on the pedals. You can drop the E150 down to steepens the HA, but I don't want to take the pussified approach to climbing hahaha so I fight the front going up

    The thing about the Enduro is that its sizing is on the big size. If you're 5'8 or shorter, get a small. I'm 5'7 but I have a medium and I'm constantly having to fist this bike in fast corners, but it can also be fun fisting a bike too! But if you're looking for put manual on this bike, ughh you better go small, because I can barely hang my ass out to baland on the rear wheel without fully locking my arms which of course is also no good!

    bottom line is if you can get it at a good price, get it.

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