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  1. #1
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    2007 SJ FSR Expert suspension bearing replacement project

    Hey All,

    I adore my 07 SJ FSR. It's a great bike to ride. I've been experiencing the pop and crackle in my rear suspension. I took apart the rear suspension, and the bearing are pretty crunchy. So now I'm on a project to replace the bearings. They were replaced at my LBS 6 months ago, but since that time the LBS has closed, and I need to learn to do this myself. I was going to order ceramic bearings from enduro or boca bearings hoping they would last longer.

    How do I tap the existing bearings out of the frame parts?

    Is there a secret?

    Do I need some sort of bearing press?

    Thanks for any help or insight.

  2. #2
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    First of all Specialized you will void your frame warranty if you change out your bearings. A Specialized dealer with a qualified and knowledgeable mechanic and an FSR pull-press kit is what you should be shopping around for.


    Having said that, the Specialized bearing kits use sealed bearings designed for high speed RPMs, which means that the factory used a very small amount of grease in the bearings to better dissipate heat. A better choice of bearing would be a low speed bearing with lots of grease packed between the races and ball bearings. As an option, removed one seal from each bearing, flush out the unit with WD-40 and pack it with a water proof grease and spin the inside race to distribute the grease. Snap the seal back on and, add blue lock tight to your pivot bolt thread, carefully start the aluminum bolt into the aluminum threads in the frame and torque the bolt to spec. The 07 SJ FSR manual can be down loaded from Specialized web site. Your bearings should last more than 6 months so I suspect the Mechanic who swapped them out forgot to perform one of the steps above.

    If you want to change them out yourself, you will need to buy an inch-pound torque wrench, blue lock tight, a large C-clamp, a large assortment of sockets, one 9/16" x 1 1/2" bolt and nut to press the 6200 bearings out and back into the frame, one M10 x 40mm (1 1/2" long) bolt and nut to press the 6202 bearing in and out of the frame and one 3/8" x 1” sleeve anchor to pull out the double 6202 bearings out of the drop-outs. It took me about 4 hours to swap out all of pivot bearings on my old 04 SJ FSR.’s the first time they wore out.

  3. #3
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    Just as a followup for anyone who may find this thread in the future...

    After inspecting the bearings, each had very little grease in them as you mentioned above. I tapped the bearings out of all but the chainstay/seatstay pivot. I cleaned them up with WD-40, re-packed heavily with waterproof grease. I was unsure if I could get the chainstay/seatstay bearings back in, so I cleaned and repacked the grease where they were. Then cleaned all the various bolts, washers, and nuts. Then I reassembled the suspension and torqued each bolt to the specs in the user manual on and specialized web site.

    Took me about two weeks off and on to get it done, but was most likely around 4 hours of total time.

    Thanks so much for your advice.

  4. #4
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    hey guys

    hello people,
    i am stuck with my bicycle after took them apart and
    i have to do the same thing for my frame(bearing replace)) but im not sure what kind of tools i need and the specialized press tool is extremely expensive.
    is there any other way and if yes how to do it...
    any chance for a photos of the tools/parts for the process would be excellent

    thanks a lot

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkentity View Post
    hello people,
    i am stuck with my bicycle after took them apart and
    i have to do the same thing for my frame(bearing replace)) but im not sure what kind of tools i need and the specialized press tool is extremely expensive.
    is there any other way and if yes how to do it...
    any chance for a photos of the tools/parts for the process would be excellent

    thanks a lot
    See here: 04 SJ bearings

  6. #6
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    just found this one...

    i just found this thing:

    http://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearin...extractor/5563
    AND
    http://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearin...unterstay/5574

    is it any good for me ?

    thanks for the fast reply

  7. #7
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    Your double drop-out 6800RS (19mm OD x 10mm ID x 5mm wide) sealed bearings will be the most difficult to extract because there is no way to get in behind them and push-press them out of their bores. Each of your 2007 FSR forged drop-outs have a stop-collar machined in the center that the sealed bearings sandwich. There is also a small 10mm washer sandwiched between the bearings as well. You will need to find a 3/8" concrete wedge anchor or sleeve anchor at your local hardware store that when tighten will wedge its sleeve up against the inside race of the outer 6800 bearing. Once you accomplish this then you can use a short M10 bolt, a socket that allows the O.D of the 19mm bearing to pass through its hex bore (possibly a 7/8" socket) and a large C-clamp to press the end of the sleeve anchor and bearing out of the drop-out. The second bearing in the drop-out and the rest of the frames pivot bearings can be extracted using a socket head M10 bolt that is pushed up against the inner race of the 6800 with its threaded end earring out of the frames bore, a 7/8 socket with a thick M10 washer place over the end of the bolt and resting on the frame bore and finally a 10mm hex nut that tightens up against the washer. Hold the nut with a wrench and use a hex socket and ratchet to tighten the M10 which will pull the bearing out of the frame bore and into the open end of the 7/8" socket. Reverse this setup minus the 7/8" socket to press your new bearing into the frame using your old bearing on top of your new one as a guide. Grease your frames bearing bores before you press the new bearings in and keep your new bearing aligned with it bore otherwise you will bend the outer race. You will need to use a 9/16" bolt for your larger 6802 bearings (24mm x 15mm x 5mm) because an M15 is not readily available. Download the 2007 SJ FSR manual and get your hands on an inch-pound 3/8" drive torque wrench, a set of metric socket drive sockets, blue lock-tite, large variety of hex sockets and a large C-Clamp. If you do not have any of these tools I would strongly suggest paying your Specialized LBS to perform this work so that your frame warranty stays intact.

  8. #8
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    well well...

    thanks mate, i really appreciate your reply !

    just ordered enduro bearing set for my sj 07 120
    looks like i am gona be bussy next week

  9. #9
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    well,
    after 2 hours of thinking i managed to find a solution which is very similar to what you gave me.
    but i got a new problem now...
    the bearing's outer race got stuck and the inner one got out.
    i tried to rebuild it with the other bearings inner race and balls but it got "exploded" again when i tried so i guess its stuck hard.
    also i cannot push it, only pulling.
    now the only solution i can think about is to grind it with a dremel type tool.

    any thoughts ?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkentity View Post
    well,
    after 2 hours of thinking i managed to find a solution which is very similar to what you gave me.
    but i got a new problem now...
    the bearing's outer race got stuck and the inner one got out.
    i tried to rebuild it with the other bearings inner race and balls but it got "exploded" again when i tried so i guess its stuck hard.
    also i cannot push it, only pulling.
    now the only solution i can think about is to grind it with a dremel type tool.

    any thoughts ?
    A pot of boiling hot water may help you get the outer race out. Dip the part with the bearing in the hot water for a couple of minutes, and see if you can get it out.


    Magura

  11. #11
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    i tried again with hot water adn also rebuilding and put in hot water.
    non... this is a really nasty one.

    i guess there is no other way then grinding.

    thanks anyway people

  12. #12
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    Depending how technically advanced you are, there are other options.
    I would be careful with grinding, as you most likely will damage the bearing seat.

    Spark erosion is one way if you have such at your disposal.

    Second solution is to do a DIY anodizing. That will dissolve the steel, and leave the aluminium pretty much as it was.


    Magura

  13. #13
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    sound interesting but i have no clue of what comes to anodizing and edm
    i will have to go to the pros to try and solve this issue. since i really dont feel like damaging the frame.

    ...just want to get it done.

  14. #14
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    http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml

    If you're a bit into crafting, you may find this useful for other purposes as well. Most of whats needed, is stuff that you may have already.
    It would sure be the safe and simple way of getting rid of the outer race.

    Magura

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml

    If you're a bit into crafting, you may find this useful for other purposes as well. Most of whats needed, is stuff that you may have already.
    It would sure be the safe and simple way of getting rid of the outer race.

    Magura
    will i have to do it for all the part or just the area with the stuck race ?
    still i am not sure what would happen to the metal race ? dissolve from the acid ?

  16. #16
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    Which sealed bearing are you having a problem with?

    If its a double drop-out bearing then remove the center washer and press out the opposite bearing so that outside bearing race and the stop-collar are the only items left inside the drop-out cavity. The outside bearing race should have a shallow groove machined-out in the center, which the ball bearings tracked around in. Remove your seat stay assembly and place the side of the drop-out that has the race in it face down on a block of wood. Working from the opposite side of the drop-out, angle a small punch or a thick short nail around the stop-collar and the tip on the punch into the outer bearing race. Tap the punch or nail lightly with a small hammer and once the race starts to move away from the drop-outs stop-collar reposition your punch to the opposite side of the bearing race and drive it down to the wood block. Once you drive the bearing race down to the wood block replace the block with a 7/8 socket and drive the race out of the drop-out and into the socket. follow this procedure for all the other bearing in the frame pivots if your old bearing's center race decoupled. DO NOT attempt to grind the old race out of the drop-out because you will ruin the drop-out (more precisely create a stressor in the forged aluminum) that potentially could fail. If you accidentally messed up the seat stay, order a new one from your LBS--it will run you around $200.00 and usually comes with new bearings as well.

  17. #17
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    i got an idea, very simple one...

    how about to take and rebuild the bearing again but this time to fill with
    Loctite-Metal-Filled-Epoxy-Putty

    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/mec...poxy-Putty.htm

    and then to work it out in the regular way...
    any thoughts ?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkentity View Post
    will i have to do it for all the part or just the area with the stuck race ?
    still i am not sure what would happen to the metal race ? dissolve from the acid ?
    Just the part where the bearing is stuck.

    The steel will dissolve, the aluminium will be anodized.


    Magura

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    Just the part where the bearing is stuck.

    The steel will dissolve, the aluminium will be anodized.


    Magura
    i am afraid to do so...
    never done anything like it and i dont have all the tools

  20. #20
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    ITS OUT !!!

    i gave it to someone and he knocked it out.
    it doesn't look damaged just tiny scratches from the work that has been done on it.
    i thought to use sand paper to smooth it or if its 0.5mm or less i should leave it ?

    thank you all for the help, one thing is for sure... i learned alot since i started this bearing hell project

  21. #21
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    Upload a picture of the scratches on your bearing cavity. I do not recommend sanding the bearing bore just grease it up before you press in your new bearing. The small visable scratches are a byproduct of an interference fit (i.e. the outer race sliding along the bore when it is pressed in or removed). The bearings are designed to “loosely” press into their respective bores. Removing material will potential cause the bearing's outside race to move up against the bore during a ride and creak. Some frame MFR's design a loose fit into their bearing bores and require gluing the bearings into their bores with blue lock-tite. For better or for worse Specialized does not design their frames this way.

  22. #22
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    it looks worse in the photos coz of the shadows but i assume you get the idea.
    What you think ?

  23. #23
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    I'd just press the bearings in and leave it at that. You risk doing more harm than good trying to remove those scratches.


    Magura

  24. #24
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    thats what i thought...
    i'll clean, put some grease and press the new bearing.
    thank you all for the help and tips

    p.s is there any alternative www.chainreactioncycles.com ?

  25. #25
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    The scratches and the pit in the bearings bores are normal. The gouges in the stop collar are ok as long as the aluminum does not project to far into the cavity where it will push the bearing seal into the ball cage creating at best a drag or at worst a side load. My advise is would be not to worry about it and press the new bearings into their bores.

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