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  1. #1
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    2007 Enduro SL E150 Downgrade???

    So I had the "2008 upgrade" done to my fork. It had a little stiction prior to this. Now it has MORE stiction and seems to get stuck (slower) coming out of climb mode. Went to another NY area shop and they said they haven't had issues with te Enduro SL's. In fact BOTH shops said they haven' done many fork upgrades and shock services.

    Does anyone know a good shop in the NY area that knows these issues and can handle it? This bike was a major outlay for me and I love it but the fork is now pissing me off.

    I usually do my own work and hearing techs say they don't know the fork makes me say screw the warranty. Any advice would be great.

    ps: I am NOT mentioning the shops names out of repect. I don't like blacklisting folks... the bulletin boards get to be witch hunts.

    Thanks in advance?

  2. #2
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    Service the air cartridge your self. It mostly a simple air piston assembly. Lube the internal o-ring and guide bushing yourself. Then without any air in the cartridge check it's stroke for stiction and or a bent rod. If the rod is fine,but you have stiction in the bushing, it will take a few rides to break it in. Give it a chance.

  3. #3
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    Check out the posting --If you have specialized suspension this may be of interest to you.-- On page 11 there is a service guide, there are some tips that will help with alignment.

  4. #4
    I like bloody ankles
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    I had similar feelings after my 07 components were changed out for 08's. When your LBS (mine has been great for me) changes out the cartridges, none of the standard maintenance is performed during the process. My forks came back feeling more stiction than ever, so I went through the Spec recommended maintenance and slick honey refresh process, paying special attention to the axle alignment and binding, and they feel like completely different forks. Very plush on initial travel, and bottom resistant as well due to a bit more than the 20cc recommended oil added to each leg (about 35cc.) I am seriously impressed by the quality of travel now, and wish I would have done a proper oil/slick honey treatment when I first got the bike 18 months ago. This will be a quarterly process now for me after I realize how good the forks can feel.

    Oh yeah, my spike valve had only 30 psi as well, so I bumped that up to the recommended 50 during the process.

    Thanks to Spec and Kelstr for the insight and docs ! With both in hand, the work is easily done in the home garage.

  5. #5
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    Scheduled Maint...

    Well, I just finished the fork and shock maintenance.

    Let me start off by saying thanks to Spec Susp Tech and Kelster for a bag of knowledge. I have done a bunch of motorcycle and car work in my day and passing knowledge is great.

    The Fork:

    Ripped her down, no wear on the legs, about 20cc in each leg fell out. Cleaned the foam rings, wiped the inners yada yada... BUT when I slid the lowers onto the stantions to check alignment I noticed considerable binding at the compressed part of the stroke (with no internals). Alignment??? So I got the whole thing back together all lubed and with 20cc in each leg. AIR OUT OF THE SHOCK, WHEEL ON I loosened the pinch bolts on the triple and went through the stroke to get the alignment better. It started out super supple and got a bit stiffer as I tightened. Did it over a couple of times and realized you can only get so much stiction out of this fork. As you tighten the pich bolts carefully and in sequence it will still drag the fork away from and easy slide through the lowers.

    In case someone differs on this:
    •The stantions are not bent, checked them with a true bar.
    •The inner rods for air, compression and rebound are perfect.
    •The wheel was on and torqued to spec.

    My opinion is at 6" you just get a bit of stiction.


    The Shock:

    Dang! Use a straw to let the air out! The air does get trapped in the lower.
    Thanks for the tip. ie: Feeler gauge, straw between the seal and the shock shaft.
    Other than that... easy stuff.

    Thanks again to those who donated info. Thats where these BB's heelp out, not just slamming product, finding help.

    That all being said... the fork does seem much better than it was (test ride soon).

    Ken

    Ken

  6. #6
    I like bloody ankles
    Reputation: dsjc's Avatar
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    I found the same when I rebuilt my forks, the travel was very smooth until about the final inch where it got real sticky. I took the tip from kelstr and loosened the allen bolt on the axle boss on the fork lower, and played around with it's positioning on the axle (basically flexing the fork lower in/out compared to the hub.) I found a spot where the travel was smooth all the way through and tightened the axle boss there and used a scratch awl on the axle to remember that mark. Good to go now....it made a huge difference.

    I did such process before putting the cartridges back in, not sure if it could be done fully assembled and with the air pressure removed.

  7. #7
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    Got to ride it yesterday...

    After servicing the fork and the shock myself (the shop didn't) it has definitely become much smoother. There is only a minor level of stiction that is expectable. Low speed sensitivity is back and the alignment is better.

    Just a question for anyone. I have always been a rider who left the compression/rebound knobs wide open and just rode. Yesterday turned up both a couple clicks and noticed the shock behaved better??? I don't mean firmer or that it didn't bounce around I mean it actually seemed to absorb and extend smoother than full open. Even the chain slap died down on descents that I usually hear it rattling so I know I am not crazy.

    Can anyone explain this?

    ps: Also found out my rear juicy 7 caliper piston was stuck closed on the rotor! Fixed it and WOW was I pedaling way too hard before!

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