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  1. #1
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    2001 FSR S-Works shock/linkage bolt questions

    I just bought a 2001 FSR S-works that is in like new condition. I previously owned a 2000 FSR S-works and always thought the 2001-2003 with beefier frame and linkage were pretty nice, and was glad to get the bike in such excellent condition. Based on the reviews on the bike in mtbr though, it is pretty clear that the lower ti shock bolt is a weak point on this bike that needs to be replaced immediately before it bends or breaks causing major damage, hassle, or possible pain as the result.

    I have removed the lower shock bolt, and fortunately because the bike never got ridden off-road to speak of, its still in perfect shape and luckily wasn't even bent yet. Anyway, the question I have is how many of the shock/linkage bolts are ti and actually need replaced? The bottom shock bolt is the only one with a "T" stamped inside the allen head. If the rest are not prone to break, or aren't even ti, then I won't bother and will just replace the lower bolt.

    Thanks for any info that can be provided.

    Jeff

  2. #2
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    Update

    Well, I was able to get a bit of additional info from a Specialized dealer today. It looks like the upper and lower shock mounting bolts are both ti, but the bottom bolt (in hardened steel) is the only one available as a single item at a cost of $5. The other linkage bolts are available but only as a full bolt kit. From what I can gather the lower bolt, which is quite a bit longer than the top shock mounting bolt, takes a lot more load and seems to be the item most likely to fail. I suppose thats why its available as a single item replacement in steel.

    So...thats the deal as far as I can tell, so hopefully if anyone else ever comes across this question...now they know as much as I do.

    JR

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by N10S
    I suppose thats why its available as a single item replacement in steel.

    JR
    I've got an '02 but it's not the S-works so it came stock with the steel bolt, it still bent, my solution was to have a solid shaft machined to replace the two hat shaped spacers, the bolt just isn't strong enough to be loaded in bending. The one-piece replacement allows the bolt to be in shear instead so it handles the load better.

  4. #4
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    Thats interesting info Brandon...not what I wanted to hear necessarily, but it sounds like the width of the span on the lower shock mount is really just too much for a simple bolt, regardless of what its made of. I am trying to envision the machined one-piece shaft you had made, and how that works with the linkage thats open on one side and threaded on the other? I assume that the one-piece shaft is the width/distance from one outer edge of the spacer to the other outer edge of the other spacer, and that the whole shaft assembly is placed through the lower shock mount eyelet right? Is the shaft threaded on each end then for a bolt to be inserted? Fortunately, I have a neighbor thats a machinist!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by N10S
    I just bought a 2001 FSR S-works that is in like new condition....

    Do you mean Epic or Stumpjumper?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverr
    Do you mean Epic or Stumpjumper?
    2001 Epic?

    (there was no Epic in 2001)
    Last edited by fsrxc; 02-02-2007 at 12:12 PM.

  7. #7
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    This is the bike in question.

    http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/olderful...ct_72844.shtml

    I think in 2001 you could get a hardatil Specialized Stumpjumper SWorks M4, or the Specialized FSR S-Works M4. I think the Epic was introduced a few years later maybe. My bike has no "stumpjumper" labeling on it just Specialized, FSR, and S Works on the head tube badge.

  8. #8
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    Pretty simple really, The shaft is a cylinder .500 inches in diameter by the width of the space in the linkage. The shaft has a hole through the center the right size for the bolt. The shock is kept centered on the shaft by a pair of spacers that fit around the shaft on either side.

    I went from having the little aluminum hat-shaped spacers wallowing out the DU bushing in a few months due to the bolt bending/flexing to now having a couple years on the same DU bushing and it still has life in it.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon
    Pretty simple really, The shaft is a cylinder .500 inches in diameter by the width of the space in the linkage. The shaft has a hole through the center the right size for the bolt. The shock is kept centered on the shaft by a pair of spacers that fit around the shaft on either side.

    I went from having the little aluminum hat-shaped spacers wallowing out the DU bushing in a few months due to the bolt bending/flexing to now having a couple years on the same DU bushing and it still has life in it.
    Ahh..I get it. So basically the stock set-up is weak in the middle where the two halves of the bushing insert meet. When you take a really hard hit, the center is where the heavy load occurs...right at that point..resulting in the bent or broken bolt. You basically build a solid insert that slides all the way through, and use extra spacers that slide over that shaft to provide proper centering. No more weakness in the middle and the only location that could be damaged would be the ends in a shear force scenario which is less likely out at the edges. That is a simple and straightforward solution that should be pretty easy to build.

    Thanks for the tip Brandon!!

    Jeff

  10. #10
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    Hi N10S,

    The lower bolt at a M6 was always a weak point with the early FSR's.
    The Enduro they fixed it with a M8, I run a Ti M8 and have never bent it @ 220#
    I never understood the reason they went back to the M6 with the 01-04 models.
    The rest of the Ti bolts will be just fine as they are grade 5 - 6AL4V

    Anyway you might be able to order the parts from Fox.
    I did it for my 01 Sworks and other bikes.
    They call it a Pin and Sleave
    I also run this on my Enduro Ti M8

    This gets you a Steel shaft and two alloy spacer sleaves to center the shock.
    I guess that due to the steel shaft that the set up is a few grams heavier
    I never cared as the DU lasted 100 times longer and I didnt bend bolts anymore.

    When you call them know the bike, shock and measure the existing alloy spacers

    Oh, and if you do not want to fork over $5 to the shop, any hardware store will have the bolt
    Around here at Ace all metric allen bolts are grade 8, which is what you want.
    They will be black and might rust abit at the head,
    Just grease the shaft with waterproof stuff and locktight the end and you are good to go.
    Stainless Steel is actaully not as strong as the Grade 8
    You could get a chromed Grade 8 also, which is what Spec used to put on bikes.
    You will get 4 black ones or 2 chrome for the $5 you give the shop.

    RideOn!
    Custom 99 FSR Elite, 01 Enduro Rear Triangle
    XTR Drive, Saint 6", Revelation UTurnAir,
    Fox Triad, RF Next RiserBars, Flite Seatpost,
    Ringle Dirty Flea hubs on DS-1 Rims
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  11. #11
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    Smile

    Thanks for the great info! I did not know that the enduro was set-up with M8 sized hardware. I am guessing that the link itself has to be replaced as well as the shock bushings (or the pin and sleeve option) resized for the M8 hardware. The pin and sleeve sounds exactly like the custom made thru-shaft mod that Brandon who posted earlier crafted.

    I did end-up ordering the "$5" bolt from the bike dealership, but will look into the Enduro set-up when I visit the shop later this week.Unfortunately I don't have any ACE hardware stores close by, and none of the regular hardware/lumber stores carry any metric allen headed bolts with a smooth shaft and threads at the end like the stock bolt. I have since found the racebolts.com and hyperbolts.com sites so maybe going to the M8 in Ti is an option in the future.

    One thing I just found out the other day when talking with Push about modifying the shock damping, is that the older pre-2001 FSR's use a more common 6.5" shock length, and the newer FSR's went to a 6.25" which is non-standard and no longer available from Fox supposedly. It sounds like Push can work on and modify the shorter shock, but if the shock gets damaged there aren't any standard replacements available on the market. I need to check into that further, but that makes me want to do as much as possible to protect the shock from getting damaged due to a broken bolt, etc... .

    Thanks again for the excellent info guys it is really appreciated!!

    Jeff

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by N10S
    Thanks for the great info! I did not know that the enduro was set-up with M8 sized hardware. I am guessing that the link itself has to be replaced as well as the shock bushings (or the pin and sleeve option) resized for the M8 hardware. The pin and sleeve sounds exactly like the custom made thru-shaft mod that Brandon who posted earlier crafted.

    I did end-up ordering the "$5" bolt from the bike dealership, but will look into the Enduro set-up when I visit the shop later this week.Unfortunately I don't have any ACE hardware stores close by, and none of the regular hardware/lumber stores carry any metric allen headed bolts with a smooth shaft and threads at the end like the stock bolt. I have since found the racebolts.com and hyperbolts.com sites so maybe going to the M8 in Ti is an option in the future.

    One thing I just found out the other day when talking with Push about modifying the shock damping, is that the older pre-2001 FSR's use a more common 6.5" shock length, and the newer FSR's went to a 6.25" which is non-standard and no longer available from Fox supposedly. It sounds like Push can work on and modify the shorter shock, but if the shock gets damaged there aren't any standard replacements available on the market. I need to check into that further, but that makes me want to do as much as possible to protect the shock from getting damaged due to a broken bolt, etc... .

    Thanks again for the excellent info guys it is really appreciated!!

    Jeff
    FYI mine and I think most '01-'02 FSR (stumpys) use a 6"x1.25" shock, which is not exactly common, but if you look there are some around (Float, Swinger, Cane Creek I think).

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by N10S
    Ahh..I get it. So basically the stock set-up is weak in the middle where the two halves of the bushing insert meet. When you take a really hard hit, the center is where the heavy load occurs...right at that point..resulting in the bent or broken bolt. You basically build a solid insert that slides all the way through, and use extra spacers that slide over that shaft to provide proper centering. No more weakness in the middle and the only location that could be damaged would be the ends in a shear force scenario which is less likely out at the edges. That is a simple and straightforward solution that should be pretty easy to build.

    Thanks for the tip Brandon!!

    Jeff
    You got it. The original design is pretty weak.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsrxc
    FYI mine and I think most '01-'02 FSR (stumpys) use a 6"x1.25" shock, which is not exactly common, but if you look there are some around (Float, Swinger, Cane Creek I think).
    He was right it's actually a 6.25x1.5" shock. My '99 had a 6.5"x1.5.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon
    my solution was to have a solid shaft machined to replace the two hat shaped spacers, the bolt just isn't strong enough to be loaded in bending. The one-piece replacement allows the bolt to be in shear instead so it handles the load better.
    Hey Brandon, could you post any pictures of this contraption you built?

  16. #16
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    Spec likes funny shocks.

    The 99-00 FSRxc came with a 6.5" as did the 00-01 Enduro
    The 97-99 FSR Ground Controls came with the 6"
    At least My Elites came with this and others I have worked on did also
    The 01-04 Stumpy and Sworks came with 6.25" some with 6" also

    They keep that tradition with the newer 7" FSRxc and 7.75" Stumpys

    Oh the Enduro link will not fit the Sworks so no M8 for you, sorry
    And yes you would have to replace the shock link to do this

    RideOn!
    Last edited by MajorCrashMaster; 02-12-2007 at 04:41 PM.
    Custom 99 FSR Elite, 01 Enduro Rear Triangle
    XTR Drive, Saint 6", Revelation UTurnAir,
    Fox Triad, RF Next RiserBars, Flite Seatpost,
    Ringle Dirty Flea hubs on DS-1 Rims
    XTcranks, FSA XC115 Stem, BG Pro Seat

  17. #17
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    I picked-up my $5 "Specialized" steel bolt last week, and while I was at the bike shop mentioned the fact that there might be a better solution available for the bottom shock mount called a "pin and sleeve" that provides a solid through-shaft design.

    The owner of the shop, a guy have known many years, contacted a resource at Specialized and mentioned the situation specific to the 2001 S-Works FSR. He asked if they had a different designed lower shock mount solution for the 01 S-works to protect against bent/broken bolts. The guy from Specialized immediately was familiar, and acknowledged that although the part number does not exist in any Specialized dealer available parts list, they actually do have such a part and is having one sent to the shop.

    I think it is a similar part to the pin and sleeve solution perhaps. I won't be back in St.Louis for another three weeks, but when I do return and pick the retrofit part up, I will post any additional details and part numbers for future reference.

    Jeff

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