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  1. #1
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    12x142+...i've read a lot, but I'm still lost.

    okay I'm wanting to get a new wheelset for my 2012 Camber 29er, but this whole 142+ is driving me nuts.

    I've researched and looked through all the threads. Before I pull the trigger and buy a pricey wheelset I just have a couple of questions.

    Does the rear wheel have to have 142+ spacing?
    Will any 12x142 rear hub wheelset fit my Camber?

    Right now I'm looking at:

    Roval Control Trail SL 29" 142+ (cause I know it will fit)
    Easton Haven Carbon 29"
    Easton EC90 XC
    Custom build a wheelset with 12x142 Chris King rear hub (friend is going to help me with that)

    I like the Rovals, but the other options seem pretty nice too.
    With all the knowledge I have acquired in the past 72 hours, it seems like these should all work. Right?

    Sorry for beating a dead horse, but I'm a newbie when it comes to parts. I'm slowly learning.

  2. #2
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    Yes, any 12x142 will fit, doesn't need to be 142+. But your original 142+ rear wheel that comes with the bike, only will fit bikes with 142+ frames (in reality, only Specialized). As on the 142+ the cassette is moved few millimeters outwards, so on non-Specialized frames it might be too close to the chainstay.

    If you'd go with a standard 12x142 wheelset, and you'd like to have the original rear wheel as a spare, the downside is that you'll need to adjust rear derailleur, due to the cassette spacing. If you have two 142+ wheels, they are instantly exchangeable. I know this personally, as I have Roval Control 29 (142) and the original Epic rear wheel which is 142+, so finetuning is required when swapping.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssio View Post
    Yes, any 12x142 will fit, doesn't need to be 142+. But your original 142+ rear wheel that comes with the bike, only will fit bikes with 142+ frames (in reality, only Specialized). As on the 142+ the cassette is moved few millimeters outwards, so on non-Specialized frames it might be too close to the chainstay.

    If you'd go with a standard 12x142 wheelset, and you'd like to have the original rear wheel as a spare, the downside is that you'll need to adjust rear derailleur, due to the cassette spacing. If you have two 142+ wheels, they are instantly exchangeable. I know this personally, as I have Roval Control 29 (142) and the original Epic rear wheel which is 142+, so finetuning is required when swapping.
    +1

  4. #4
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    THANK YOU! I know I read that through all of the researching, but I just needed somebody to "paint the picture" for me.

    +rep for you.

  5. #5
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    If you are considering Roval, you might think about the Roval Control Trail SL 29 (non 142+): Roval Control Trail SL 29. These will work with your Camber (with minor der adjustments as explained by ssio) but will also be transferrable to any other bike, whether it's a 142 rear axle or a 135, since the wheels come with end caps for both types. The 142+ might be that tiny bit better on your Specialized, but I would choose the ability to use them on any other bike over that.
    BMC FS01 29 X0
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  6. #6
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    I don't mean to hijack, but for those who have swapped their 142+ wheels for standard 142 spacing... can you say about how much the chain line changes?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew-FSR View Post
    If you are considering Roval, you might think about the Roval Control Trail SL 29 (non 142+): Roval Control Trail SL 29. These will work with your Camber (with minor der adjustments as explained by ssio) but will also be transferrable to any other bike, whether it's a 142 rear axle or a 135, since the wheels come with end caps for both types. The 142+ might be that tiny bit better on your Specialized, but I would choose the ability to use them on any other bike over that.
    Yup I'm probably going to go with the standard 142 hub. I'm tired of the special specialized stuff. Thanks for the input. I'll throw some rep at you.

  8. #8
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    Ok I just spoke with LBS. he is questioning all of this. He said I could have chain line issues. Have you folks noticed anything?

  9. #9
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    Just get the 135mm Rovals and swap end caps. No chain line issues whatsoever.
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  10. #10
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    doesnst specilazed officially allow 142mm (no plus) wheels in their frames? So it should really be no more than adjusting the rear derailer, hopefully

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.BL View Post
    doesnst specilazed officially allow 142mm (no plus) wheels in their frames? So it should really be no more than adjusting the rear derailer, hopefully
    Yes, I mentioned the rear derailleur to the LBS, but he wasn't 100% convinced. He said that I would have chain line issues. He said he will talk to Specialize and get the low down. I want to keep a nice relationship with these guys so I will just sit and wait for their own conclusion.

  12. #12
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    Well, many 2011 models came with the notorious "HiLo" 12x142+ rear hub that failed for lots of people, there is even one long thread active on the Specialized section at mtbr.com now. The freehub failed for me too, Specialized did not have replacement wheels to send, so they instructed LBS to rebuild the wheel with SRAM X9 12x142 hub. And that's standard 142, not 142+.. so you can make your conclusion about the necessity of 142+.

  13. #13
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    ^^^exactly. I read that long thread too. My 2012 HiLo hubs are failing too. It lasted about 2 months and only about 200 miles of trail riding. Which is why I wanted to get a spare wheelset without the 142+ hub. I asked my LBS if I could rebuild my rear wheel with a Chris King 12x142 rear hub. I offered to pay the difference of whatever specialized would comp. Right now there are no SRAM X9 hubs available and TBH, those hubs aren't much better than the HiLo hubs.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazukea View Post
    Yes, I mentioned the rear derailleur to the LBS, but he wasn't 100% convinced. He said that I would have chain line issues. He said he will talk to Specialize and get the low down. I want to keep a nice relationship with these guys so I will just sit and wait for their own conclusion.
    There's no problem using a 142x12mm rear hub in a Specialized frame. The difference in spacing is only 2mm between a standard 142x12mm freehub and a 142+ freehub. The rear derailleur adjustment screws can deal with that easily so you aren't compromising the rear shifting by using a 142x12mm rear hub.

    http://service.specialized.com/colla...lity-Guide.pdf

    My 2012 Specialized Epic has been used almost exclusively with a 142x12mm rear hub instead of a 142+ rear hub and there isn't a shifting issue at all.

    If you switch between 142x12mm and 142+ rear hubs then you need to adjust the rear derailleur limit screws each time. I had my original Roval Control rim built into a Hope Pro II hub so that all my spare wheels are now 142x12mm spacing.

  15. #15
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    The change from 142+ to standard 142 was so minor I didn't even need to adjust the derailleur so I can't see it causing chain line issues.

  16. #16
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    So i talked to my LBS today again. Looks like they will be rebuilding my current rear wheel with a CK 12x142 hub. I'm stoked. Of course I'm going to have to dish out some of my own money cause CK hubs aren't cheap. Still it's a good deal IMO.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazukea View Post
    So i talked to my LBS today again. Looks like they will be rebuilding my current rear wheel with a CK 12x142 hub. I'm stoked. Of course I'm going to have to dish out some of my own money cause CK hubs aren't cheap. Still it's a good deal IMO.
    As a counterpoint, I like the 142+ wheelset, the extra width helps stiffen the rear end.

    Having said that, I have a 142 wheelset as well as my 142+ SL's. I can swap the 2 without changing the limit screws, just using the trim.

    Also you would find a number of bikes, setup for 142 that would take a 142+ Spec rear wheel. It just depends on whether there is an extra 2mm of space between the seat and chain stay and the "normal" cassette line. Pretty easy to find with alloy frames, less so with carbon.

  18. #18
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    Why would Spec. come up with a new f***ing standard...

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by arkon11 View Post
    Why would Spec. come up with a new f***ing standard...
    It's what they do.

    If anything, I would think going from 142+ to 142 would help the chainline, as the cassette would be slightly closer to the centerline of the bike.

  20. #20
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    the 142+ is meant to strengthen the wheel.

  21. #21
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    I had a set of WTB Stryker wheels in 142, and a set of Roval Traverse AM wheel on a 2012 Enduro, and changing between them did not require any fine tuning of the derailliuer. BTW, in Australia, Spec wanted $80 for the endcaps only !

  22. #22
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    all advances are usually proprietary...

    Quote Originally Posted by arkon11 View Post
    Why would Spec. come up with a new f***ing standard...
    It's an advance in strength and stiffness. Proprietary? Yes, but the 142 standard obsoleted all existing rear wheels. And made it very difficult for everyone from wheel manufacturers, frame builders, and bike owners. 142+ is just more of the same. Put it another way, the chances of me selling my 142+ carbon Rovals separate from my Epic are zero. And, given that the Epic will happily accept a 142 rear wheel, it causes me no concern.

  23. #23
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    If you don't have to change your limit screws when changing from a 142 to a 142+ rear hub, your limit screws are not adjusted very precisely, which often doesn't matter for the small cog limit screw, but can allow your chain to get into the spokes with the large cog limit screw..

    All cogs move left -- towards the bike's centerline -- 2 mm when switching from 142+ to 142, so the big cog limit screw needs to be unscrewed a bit, and the small cog limit screw needs to be screwed in a bit.

    A 142 works just fine in a 142+ Specialized bike, but leaves a kind of odd looking gap between the 11t cog and the dropout, and will slightly negatively impact the chainline when in the "big/big" gear. But just slightly.

    FWIW, it is surprising how many bikes will accept a 142+ rear hub, and how many more will do so with just a bit of fine emery cloth work on the right side dropout, the cassette lockring, and/or the 11t cog. In the case of my Turner Sultan, about 0.005" was all it took.
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