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  1. #1
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    '11 Hardrock 2x10?

    I've been wanting to upgrade my Hardrock for quite some time. It's more or less stock except for pedals and fsa wheels. Most of my money goes towards motocross racing but I'd like to put money into my hardtail to make it a little more competitive. I was thinking about a 2x10 drivetrain. I feel that my current setup has too many repeat gear ratios. What do you guys think? Any suggestions?

    -Shawn-

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    Anyone?

  3. #3
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    IMO, it would be a waste of money unless the drivetrain is shot already.
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  4. #4
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    You'll get more bang for the buck with other upgrades.

    You say you already have a new wheelset, are you running tubeless? If not, hook it up. Next inline would be replacing the stock fork.

  5. #5
    @trailgrinder
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    Biggest advantage is going to be in weight loss on the bike, you already did the wheels maybe a carbon post and bar? Sounds as though you already know all this stuff so back to the original question. I went from 3x10 to 2 x10 and feel that it makes my shifting much faster and I feel like I am not replicating the same gear ratio and actually more efficient. Everyone told me it would make climbing harder and not be suited for my area. I love 2 x 10 and love being able to use the front rings with a simple shift and gain my decrease or increase in one shift. Long story short I say go for it, it will make you a stronger rider and you will probably end up actually using your shifting how it was designed for, efficiency.

  6. #6
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    I'm definitely going to look into a 2x10 setup. I'd imagine I'll have to replace my current deraileurs. Any suggestions that won't brake the bank?

    Also, I completely understand the benefits of saving weight on your machine. However, until i cut some of the fat of my body I don't think a carbon bar or post will do much. Lol.

    I would love to upgrade my fork, but their are so many damn options that I get lost. Also, this is a hardrock. I already have to fight temptation on certain drops, so have better forks might allow me to ride too aggressive for the frame!?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whyzee429 View Post
    I'm definitely going to look into a 2x10 setup. I'd imagine I'll have to replace my current deraileurs. Any suggestions that won't brake the bank?

    Also, I completely understand the benefits of saving weight on your machine. However, until i cut some of the fat of my body I don't think a carbon bar or post will do much. Lol.

    I would love to upgrade my fork, but their are so many damn options that I get lost. Also, this is a hardrock. I already have to fight temptation on certain drops, so have better forks might allow me to ride too aggressive for the frame!?
    Hard to suggest something without knowing a budget.

    And depending on which model of the Hardrock that you have, the handlebar could be a huge upgrade to save weight. I know the non-sport disc version comes with a steel handlebar that weighs over two pounds..the stem is heavy as hell as well.
    Current Ride:
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    It's the disc model, but I believe one model it above it. $300 is the most I'd want to put in this bike. I can't really justify putting in that much more

  9. #9
    @trailgrinder
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    Also what type of riding do you mostly do?

  10. #10
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    Climbs and technical single track mostly

  11. #11
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    I never really realized a bar/stem could weigh that much. I know my bar is steel so I'm imagining the stem is as well.

    My forks feel like something that a Walmart bike would come with. I know I can't ask much more from a $500 bike, but does anyone ever upgrade these? There comes a point where I think it would be more cost effective to just get another bike.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whyzee429 View Post
    I never really realized a bar/stem could weigh that much. I know my bar is steel so I'm imagining the stem is as well.

    My forks feel like something that a Walmart bike would come with. I know I can't ask much more from a $500 bike, but does anyone ever upgrade these? There comes a point where I think it would be more cost effective to just get another bike.
    People do upgrade them but only if they are sure that they will be able to use it on another frame for a build in the future.

    A good wheelset with convertible hubs will last years which you can move to another bike. Brakes are another thing that can be re-used, and also cockpit items (seat, seatpost, stem, handlebar).

    I'm not sure if you've ever weighed your bike, but I weighed my girlfriends '12 Myka Disc and it was close to 30 lbs for a freaking hardtail. The Hi-Ten handlebar was 706g.
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  13. #13
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    I've weighed it in a semi accurate home scale. I believe
    It was 31-32lbs.

    I guess since cockpit items are pretty universal they can be seen as an investment towards a future bike.

  14. #14
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    You can get a Rockshox Recon Silver solo air fork for under $300 that will likely drop more weight than you'll save with a bar & stem upgrade, as well as completely bettering your ride all together.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuPrBuGmAn View Post
    You can get a Rockshox Recon Silver solo air fork for under $300 that will likely drop more weight than you'll save with a bar & stem upgrade, as well as completely bettering your ride all together.
    That is true as well. I weighed the Suntour that came on the Myka and it was 2202g.

    OP keep in mind that your bike uses 1-1/8" straight steerer tube and it might not be reusable on a future build since most newer/expensive bikes are now using tapered.
    Current Ride:
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  16. #16
    @trailgrinder
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    Update the cockpit and make sure you can swap out any other items unless you plan on riding the bike for the next five years then you might as well drop some cash if your gonna keep it

  17. #17
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    First off, you guys have been more than helpful. It's hard finding a quality forum, so thank you.

    I definitely don't plan to have this bike for 5 years. My riding style is a bit too demanding for this bike. I would have more fun on an FS or higher quality HT.

    I'm going to look into the Rockshox fork. I'm not planning on selling this bike so the transferability isn't a concern. My stock fork is horrible!

  18. #18
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    Is this what you guys are talkin about or am I completely off base. Some say 1-1/8 and 1.5" so that's confusing. Some say recon silver TK, while others say
    "R".

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  20. #20
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    You'll need one with a 1 1/8th steerer, that appears to be either a 1.5" or 1 1/2-1 1/8"(tapered) steerer.

  21. #21
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    Okay, I see the slight taper on the head tube of the fork. Forgive me, but these numbers are all Greek to me for now. Some are listed at 80,100,120mm. I understand those probably refer to length of travel. I think I just need someone to talk to me like a complete moron and possibly even show me what would fit my hardrock.

  22. #22
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    It's pretty simple. You need a 1-1/8" straight steerer. I think 120mm might be a bit much and might throw off the geometry of the bike, I would go with a 100mm. With your budget, definitely go with a solo air.
    Current Ride:
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    '11 Specialized Roubaix Compact Rival

  23. #23
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    Also, I'm pretty sure the frame was built to work with the suspension that they supplied. Anything longer would surely put undue stress on the frame, so I'm sure I have to stick with stock travel

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whyzee429 View Post
    Also, I'm pretty sure the frame was built to work with the suspension that they supplied. Anything longer would surely put undue stress on the frame, so I'm sure I have to stick with stock travel
    Not really, but it's all up to you.
    Current Ride:
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  25. #25
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    Even the longer travel forks can be spaced to 80mm's of travel.


    Specialized will not warranty a frame with 10% over/under stock travel(80mm in most Hardrocks cases). That being said, several people have had great luck with more travel on their bikes. The Hardrock frame has proven to be quite bulletproof. 120mm is a 50% increase in travel though, I can't really see that as a good thing for geometry... atleast if you ever go uphill.

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