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  1. #1
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    New question here. 00 FSR rear wheel coming loose

    I have a 2000 Stumpjumper FSR and my rear wheel keeps coming loose on the drive side no matter how tight I get the skewer. This just started about a year ago. I've tried different skewers - XT, XTR, and Salsa. The Salsas have been working great until recently. I initially thought it was the disc brakes, but it seems to happen as my rear tire bounces off of rocks or roots, or if I stand up and hammer. Also happens a lot when I try to ride a wheelie.

    Just wondered if anyone else has had this problem with their FSR or may know what's causing this.

  2. #2
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    Me too

    I've had the same problem on a 00 Enduro. My rear wheel will come out if I try to climb uphill in too big a gear. I switched to Shimano skewers which helped but only if I tighten the skewers to the point where they are hard to remove by hand. Ive heard that replacing your dropout might solve the problem but I havent tried that myself yet.

  3. #3
    FPC
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    I had the same problem with my 2000 SWorks FSR. Sorry to say nothing I tried worked 100%. I tried many different skewers - had okay luck with Salsas and XTR but bolt-ons seemed to work best - but also just "new" seemed to work better than older ones - new gnurling on the skewers? I used a number of different wheels. . I tightened the snot out of the skewers. I noticed that the gnurling on the frame and deraileur hanger seemed not very pronounced so I sctratched/roughed up the spots. I cursed a lot. For me it was not a constant every ride problem but it was a chronic/regular problem - dropout slips, wheel goes cockeyed in the dropouts and tire rubs the seatstay. My best advice - which I never took myself - would be to contact Specialized. A similar issue I had on another bike that I didn't check on this one was the drop out spacing was wrong/too wide - warranty issue. BTW - I only used v-brakes and teh problem seemed to occur for me when I was slamming through stuff as opposed to torquing the drivetrain hard with pressure on the pedals...good luck

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the replies guys.

    al-r.....I've already replaced the derailleur hanger and that didn't seem to help.

    FPC....this doesn't happen every ride but it sounds very similar to your situation. Newer skewers work for a while, then the slipping comes back. Also, the gnurling on the frame seems really smoothed out. I did notice the other day that the drop out spacing seems really wide to me. I've sent an email to Spec'd. If I don't hear back soon, I'll probably take it to my local dealer and get them to contact Spec'd for me. Maybe it's just time to buy a new Enduro..... : )

  5. #5
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    Any updates on this? I have the exact same problem on my '00 FSR Enduro. The drop outs look worn and I cant get any skewer to stay tight withough torquing it on so tight I have problems getting it off in the event of a flat.

    I am going to take it in to a shop in the next couple weeks
    thanks

  6. #6
    FPC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom93R1
    Any updates on this? I have the exact same problem on my '00 FSR Enduro. The drop outs look worn and I cant get any skewer to stay tight withough torquing it on so tight I have problems getting it off in the event of a flat.

    I am going to take it in to a shop in the next couple weeks
    thanks
    For me - no updates - the frame is stripped and hanging on the wall - haven't used it since last spring - my suggestion would be to check the distance between drop-outs - they should be close to 135mm - if a lot wider then the argument could be made that it's a defect and should be warrantied - if you can't get free replacement through warranty of the seat stay then you probably could buy one for I'd guess about $75 through the dealer - if that doesn't work then I don't know what to say - I tried steel bolt ons, new lock nuts, new d-hanger, roughing up the inside of drop-out on non-drive side - nothing worked permanently - eventually I'd have the problem again - good luck

  7. #7
    TNC
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    This works.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom93R1
    Any updates on this? I have the exact same problem on my '00 FSR Enduro. The drop outs look worn and I cant get any skewer to stay tight withough torquing it on so tight I have problems getting it off in the event of a flat.

    I am going to take it in to a shop in the next couple weeks
    thanks
    This requires using a different hub most of the time depending on how your FSR came equipped. I have a '99 Enduro and a '00 Enduro Big Hit. Both of them did this. I started using Shimano hubs that have cups and cones with removeable axles...specifically XT disc hubs or non-disc hubs if you're a V-brake user. Prebuilt wheels with XT disc hubs are super common and relatively cheap. Replace the Shimano QR axle with a Wheels Manufacturing 180mm solid steel axle...you retain your original internal parts...really quite easy. Use a pair of track nuts to affix the wheel to the dropouts. Track nuts are vice-like little buggers that stick but don't gouge your aluminum dropouts. This setup has the added benefit of stiffening up the rear triangle somewhat...and we all know how spindly the OEM rear triangle is on these models. To get the wheel off in the field for a flat or such, carry a Surly axle wrench in your tool kit or Camelback. The Surly wrench is small but super stout for wrenching the axle nut on and off. I never had a rear hub loosen or dropout again and had a stiffer rear triangle as a bonus.

  8. #8
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    Update...

    Took my bike to the local shop and they determined that the seatstay needed to be replaced because the dropouts were worn down. This IS NOT covered under warranty and will cost $100. They placed the order 2 weeks ago and I'm still waiting. They called Specialized on Monday of this week and were told that the part has been ordered, but not sure when it will arrive. So, here I wait. Luckily, I have my 1x1 to ride.

  9. #9
    FPC
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    This requires using a different hub most of the time depending on how your FSR came equipped. I have a '99 Enduro and a '00 Enduro Big Hit. Both of them did this. I started using Shimano hubs that have cups and cones with removeable axles...specifically XT disc hubs or non-disc hubs if you're a V-brake user. Prebuilt wheels with XT disc hubs are super common and relatively cheap. Replace the Shimano QR axle with a Wheels Manufacturing 180mm solid steel axle...you retain your original internal parts...really quite easy. Use a pair of track nuts to affix the wheel to the dropouts. Track nuts are vice-like little buggers that stick but don't gouge your aluminum dropouts. This setup has the added benefit of stiffening up the rear triangle somewhat...and we all know how spindly the OEM rear triangle is on these models. To get the wheel off in the field for a flat or such, carry a Surly axle wrench in your tool kit or Camelback. The Surly wrench is small but super stout for wrenching the axle nut on and off. I never had a rear hub loosen or dropout again and had a stiffer rear triangle as a bonus.
    interesting idea - so then the issue would seem to be flexy axle + flexy rear triangle = wheel slip? I've run X Max, White Industries AftTracker and AC 220 hubs on that bike - of which my guess is the White axle is likely steel and the other 2 likely not - I can't recall which I'd have the problem with more or less - but definitely with both the XMax and AC which I was running most often in recent years - it was always on a "regular itermittant" basis. I've never seen a track nut but what you say makes perfect sense given the torque those guys put on the drivetrain.

  10. #10
    TNC
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    Not so much the axle.

    Quote Originally Posted by FPC
    interesting idea - so then the issue would seem to be flexy axle + flexy rear triangle = wheel slip? I've run X Max, White Industries AftTracker and AC 220 hubs on that bike - of which my guess is the White axle is likely steel and the other 2 likely not - I can't recall which I'd have the problem with more or less - but definitely with both the XMax and AC which I was running most often in recent years - it was always on a "regular itermittant" basis. I've never seen a track nut but what you say makes perfect sense given the torque those guys put on the drivetrain.
    The axle isn't so much the issue as to how it's clamped in the dropouts. The solid steel axle just allows a threaded platform all the way out past the dropouts for the nuts. I think the flex of the rear stays, which is horrible on our older FSRs, is the main contributer here. This bolt-on axle setup helps most bikes achieve a little more stiffness at the rear wheel, even on a Bullit...but our older FSRs almost require it. I finally installed an entire Risse rear end on my '00 Enduro Big Hit. Now I can use QR wheels with no issues at all...super stiff .
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ubeless
    Took my bike to the local shop and they determined that the seatstay needed to be replaced because the dropouts were worn down. This IS NOT covered under warranty and will cost $100. They placed the order 2 weeks ago and I'm still waiting. They called Specialized on Monday of this week and were told that the part has been ordered, but not sure when it will arrive. So, here I wait. Luckily, I have my 1x1 to ride.
    That is not the resolution I was hoping for
    This seems to be a relatively common problem, to bad Specialized wont warranty it. I will try any way this week some time. thanks for the update!

  12. #12
    TNC
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    And it will happen again.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom93R1
    That is not the resolution I was hoping for
    This seems to be a relatively common problem, to bad Specialized wont warranty it. I will try any way this week some time. thanks for the update!
    Even if Specialized warranteed the stays, they wouldn't be beefed up or anything similar, so in short order you'd have the same problem. The simple bolt-on axle is the only fix that I'm aware of. I was curious to see if others had come up with any alternatives. I'd still recommend killing two birds with one stone...stiffen up the rear triangle and secure the hub.

  13. #13
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    Will replacing the hub and axle with a bolt-on hold secure even if the drop outs are already worn out?

  14. #14
    TNC
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    Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom93R1
    Will replacing the hub and axle with a bolt-on hold secure even if the drop outs are already worn out?
    I have a '99 Enduro and a 2000 Big Hit Enduro. Both had some pretty bad gnar on the dropouts from squirming around back there and coming out at some of the most inopportune times. Sticking something like an XT hubbed wheel with bolt-on axle and track nuts stopped all that nonsense. Here's a closeup pic.
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  15. #15
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    Thanks for that pic! I think I will go that route, but it still cant hurt to try and get a new rear end for warranty

  16. #16
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    I have the same problem on my 04 FSR XC I'll be crawling up a steep hill applying a lot of torque when "whizzzzzz" the rear tire jams into the non-drive side of the frame. If I overtighten the QR, it'll go ~10 miles before doing it again. Shimano XT disc hub/skewer (and cones are adjusted properly).

  17. #17
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    I just took an angle grinder and leveled the whole bracket yesterday and tomorrow going for a ride. Hopefully that took care of the problem finally!

  18. #18
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    Well it seems my bit of grinding did the trick. If I can get a picture worth anything I will post it. This took about 5 minutes to fix, but having the right tool for the job is key.

  19. #19
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    Specialized is going to warranty mine. They also mentioned grinding the frame to the point that the little replaceable derailleur hanger is flush with the outer-most part of the frame (mine was recessed in somewhat).

  20. #20
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    2 days ago, specialized approved my warranty. Today, my LBS called to tell me the swingarm is in. How's that for service? Specialized rocks

  21. #21
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    Ping TNC and Tom93R1

    Yep, same problem on my '01 Enduro.

    Thanks for pointing me to this thread TNC. How much was your Risse rear triangle? My rims and hubs are in great shape so I'd rather spend money towards the rear triangle than new wheels. I just got my shock PUSHed so I want to be able to keep that too.

    Tom93R1- Any more details on what you did with your grinder? Did the problem come back for you yet? I'm guessing you ground down the derailleur hanger a bit so that the axle bolt could bite into the aluminum of the frame rather than the steel of the hanger?

  22. #22
    TNC
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    Risse

    Quote Originally Posted by Wheelspeed
    Yep, same problem on my '01 Enduro.

    Thanks for pointing me to this thread TNC. How much was your Risse rear triangle? My rims and hubs are in great shape so I'd rather spend money towards the rear triangle than new wheels. I just got my shock PUSHed so I want to be able to keep that too.

    Tom93R1- Any more details on what you did with your grinder? Did the problem come back for you yet? I'm guessing you ground down the derailleur hanger a bit so that the axle bolt could bite into the aluminum of the frame rather than the steel of the hanger?
    On that Risse rear, I'm not sure what retail on it was, as I work at a shop and ordered it at dealer cost. I put it on my '00 Big Hit, which is nothing more than a longer travel Enduro. Yes, it allows you to use your stock shock. That rear end is an impressive work of engineering. It's got a shock swinglink that allows mulitiple positions. All flex is totally removed. I used to be able to buzz my rear tire against the top of the stock seat stays in hard corners. Now it's stiffer than a railroad track.
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  23. #23
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    This is what I did to my drop out, just smoothed the whole thing out with my air powered die grinder with a cutting disk. Works pretty good but not perfect. I think I probably just need to attack the other side, I noticed some wear there as well.
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    ^ that is pretty much what my LBS did to my new rear end. They also switched me to a metal skewer nut (from an older road bike). It seems to bite in better than the half-metal, half-plastic XT skewer nut...

  25. #25
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    Thanks Tom93R1. After looking closely at my bike last night I see why you did that. My drop-out is worn more towards the front than at the back, so it's a bit of a wedge shape that is helping move the axle forward. Plus, the steel drop out is only at the back half of the skewer bolt so I have hard steel at the back half and softer, worn aluminum at the front half of the skewer bolt.

    My bike shop didn't have any bolt-on skewers with steel bolts, only aluminum. For today's ride I found a mean looking grip-washer and hope that'll bit into the aluminum better.

    Later I'll see if my bike shop can put a trackbike solid axle into my Specialized 'Stout' hub.

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