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  1. #1
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    Wippermann Whitestar 108 vs SRAM PC-1

    Anyone here used the Wippermann Whitestar 108 single speed chain? I am a newbie and I am using the SRAM pc1 , I was told that was the one to get. But now I am hearing about this Wippermann Whitestar 108, but I do not see any reviews of it here on MTBR.
    Anyone with experience want to give a comparison? Between the SRAM pc1 and Wippermann Whitestar 108?
    Keep the wheels rolling

  2. #2
    meatier showers
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    I have not used the Wippermann but I've used the PC-1... it is a POS.

    Personally I'm a fan of 8-spd chains and SRAM is my choice there. But if you're running 1/8th ring / cog... well, do what ya gotta do.

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  3. #3
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    Get the PC-850 and be happy.

  4. #4
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    I had been running a KMC Z510 chain with no troubles but have recently fitted a Sram PC1 and have so far had two dropped chains have got another KMC on its way

  5. #5
    talentless hack
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    Are you looking for a 1/8" chain for any particular reason? If you have 1/8" cogs/chainrings then okay, but if not, just get a 3/32" chain - they're generally better.

  6. #6
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    For SS bikes

    Quote Originally Posted by zandr
    Are you looking for a 1/8" chain for any particular reason? If you have 1/8" cogs/chainrings then okay, but if not, just get a 3/32" chain - they're generally better.
    Oh, I thought I was in the SS section of mtbr. forums here. So yes, this thread is in regards to SS bikes. I have a conversion SS from a Marin Mountain Pine frame, with LX cranks. I have Surly 1x1 flip flop hubs, and I don't have perfect chain alignment. So I might need that extra security with the 1/8" style chain.
    Keep the wheels rolling

  7. #7
    meatier showers
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbinder
    Oh, I thought I was in the SS section of mtbr. forums here. So yes, this thread is in regards to SS bikes. I have a conversion SS from a Marin Mountain Pine frame, with LX cranks. I have Surly 1x1 flip flop hubs, and I don't have perfect chain alignment. So I might need that extra security with the 1/8" style chain.
    "...extra security with the 1/8" style chain." LOL

    Sorry. You said you're a newbie... it's just that it's showing. Yeah, you're in the SS section of mtbr. Welcome.

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  8. #8
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    Thanks for the welcome, great forums here BTW this is where I learned about my KMC 510 chain, which I was about to replace soon.

    Well every local Bike shop I went to told me that I need an 1/8 chain for my SS and that it would be less likely to derail. So I have always thought that is what I needed. Besides from what I have read here on the forums it seems that many here use 1/8". Maybe it is not necessary, but don't you need 1/8" chain in order to use a Half Link?
    Can you get half links for 3/32" chain?

    So also remember my original question, which has not been answered too folks, about the the Wippermann Whitestar 108 , any reviews anyone?

    Oh yeah here is a pic of my alignment problem.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wippermann Whitestar 108 vs SRAM PC-1-chain-alignment-2.jpg  

    Last edited by ironbinder; 04-24-2011 at 10:54 AM.
    Keep the wheels rolling

  9. #9
    PSYCHOLUST
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    THAT is a BIG alignment problem
    Solutions....

    1) run your chain ring in the big ring position on the cranks and forget the bashgaurd
    2) If you are running a CARTRIDGE style Bottom Bracket (isis/octolink/square taper)
    get a LONGER one
    eg: if you are running a 108mm spindle..... get a 113mm

    To correct THAT chainline, you may even need to do BOTH solutions

  10. #10
    talentless hack
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    In which position is your chainring on your crank right now? With the alignment pictured, it almost looks like you're running it on the granny bolts. Can you post a picture of the side or front, maybe? I think fixing your chainline will yield better results than switching to a 1/8" chain. In fact I don't think a 1/8" chain will help in this regard - a 3/32" chain is more flexible and should tolerate more deflection.

  11. #11
    nothing to see here
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    I use the very heavy Wipperman Whitestar 108 for one race, a very muddy race, and after I hosed the bike down on the same day, I didn't have any lube to put on it. It seized/rusted quicker than any other chain I've ever used. Currently sitting in my shed in a permanent brown coil shape.

    I use 1/8" chainring and cog, so I have to use a 1/8" chain, but I suggest you find a chain that matches your cog and chainring thickness. Yes you can get 3/32" half links.

    You can't tell by that photo whether you have an alignment issue or not. Measure the distance (in millimetres) from the middle of your rear cog teeth to the inside face of the dropout. Subtract that figure from 62.5mm and you have your chain line at the rear.

    Then measure from the middle of the chainring teeth to the centre of your downtube. If you have a big difference between these values, then you need to adjust one or the other to match. You have a screw on freewheel, so not really any adjustment to be had there. See what you can adjust at the cranks.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  12. #12
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    Thanks guys, no I don't have a standard crank up front. That IS a SS crank set up in the front. No granny gear position. Here is a pic
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wippermann Whitestar 108 vs SRAM PC-1-imgp5014.jpg  

    Keep the wheels rolling

  13. #13
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    And I have the standard Surly 1x1 hubs on both. So I just have the basic screw on hub for SS. No adjusting there. Here is another picture of my front chainring and spyder set up.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wippermann Whitestar 108 vs SRAM PC-1-above.jpg  

    Keep the wheels rolling

  14. #14
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    And here is one of the bolt holes, sorry for the blurry photo. I just now went out and shot this. It is kind of dark out and my lens could not focus properly.
    But here you can see, if you look close, at the 3 bolt patterns for my crank spyder. I have the current 34t chainring bolted into the 110 BCD bolt holes, then there is 74mm BCD and then 56mm BCD.
    I know that I can't get 32t in the 5 bolt 110mm pattern. So if I switch to 74mm will it be weaker? Because the bolts w/spacers will not be located at the perimeter torque zone. But inside where they will have less mechanical advantage.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wippermann Whitestar 108 vs SRAM PC-1-imgp5026.jpg  

    Keep the wheels rolling

  15. #15
    nothing to see here
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    It's hard to to tell, but it looks like you have a removable spider with those cranks. Instead of stuffing around with a ring for the 74mm bcd holes, you could remove the whole spider and get a suitably splined spiderless chainring. Maybe Homebrewed Components makes one to fit that crank.

    You'd then have more chance of fixing your alignment problem than using the granny ring bolt holes. It also appears as though the bash guard/spider is causing the whole alignment issue.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  16. #16
    Where's Toto?
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    I've been using Wipperman chains on my SS for several years. I use the 808 which is an 8-speed chain. Highly recommended. Their connecting link is the only one that works. You can get 'em in several flavors, nickel, gold, stainless, etc.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevob
    -- - - - Instead of stuffing around with a ring for the 74mm bcd holes, you could remove the whole spider and get a suitably splined spiderless chainring.
    --- - - appears as though the bash guard/spider is causing the whole alignment issue.
    Yeah, I know. Some mechanics at the LBS's say they have never seen such a heavy duty looking spyder/bash guard. It is on a really old LX crank. Many have said it would be hard to find a spyder that will fit that, and it would have to be a 5 bolter anyways. Some have said I should just leave it. It is kind of custom. I think some small obscure company made that spyder a long time ago. No one seems to recognize it.
    I don't want to put too much into this bike. I am going to sell it eventually and upgrade. It is a 16-1/2" frame and I am 6' tall. I really actually like a 18" frame better. I tried a 20" (Peace) and I don't like it, it feels like a tank, I demo-'ed the med. (18") and it felt good to me, but I did not like the cheap disk brake system. I just need to decide whether I am going to go with a 29er or stay 26" wheels.
    Keep the wheels rolling

  18. #18
    nothing to see here
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    I have no idea what type of spline is used on the old LX cranks, but I'd put money on it being compatible with other shimano cranks with removable spiders. That bashguard is the spider as well. I think that for $45, switching to a spiderless chainring would move your chainline (at a guess) about 7-8mm more outboard, and would be money well spent.

    Example photo only


    I don't understand what you mean when you say it would have to be a 5 bolter spider to replace it. Spiderless chainrings are just that, spiderless. Apologies if I've misunderstood.

    Also, FWIW, changing your chainring size will shorten or lengthen the distance required between chainring and cog by approx 3mm for every tooth difference.

    Good luck with whatever decision you make. Oh, and 29ers rock.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  19. #19
    Down South Yooper
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    I believe what you've got there is a Surly Blower Drive conversion, which replaces the stock spider on a shimano crankset with the bashguard/single ring setup. There's no reason to replace it, it's fine for what you need. I found a picture of another one on the net, and found the surly instructions.

    http://www.surlybikes.com/uploads/do...lowerdrive.pdf

    However, you need a longer spindle on that crankset. I'm guessing that's an octalink (shimano splined) BB, and it's probably a V2 version (there are two different splines, one for road and XTR cranks, and one for everything else, XT, LX, etc). If you get that chainring bumped out so that your chainline is correct, you'll be golden.

    (Edit, it looks like you have a square taper crankset, should be easy-peasy to get a longer spindle and probably starting around $20, even at LBS prices). Incidentally, if your LBS mechanic can't figure out how to get that chainline better, try somewhere else. This is pretty basic stuff for a good wrench.


    Quote Originally Posted by ironbinder
    Yeah, I know. Some mechanics at the LBS's say they have never seen such a heavy duty looking spyder/bash guard. It is on a really old LX crank. Many have said it would be hard to find a spyder that will fit that, and it would have to be a 5 bolter anyways. Some have said I should just leave it. It is kind of custom. I think some small obscure company made that spyder a long time ago. No one seems to recognize it.
    I don't want to put too much into this bike. I am going to sell it eventually and upgrade. It is a 16-1/2" frame and I am 6' tall. I really actually like a 18" frame better. I tried a 20" (Peace) and I don't like it, it feels like a tank, I demo-'ed the med. (18") and it felt good to me, but I did not like the cheap disk brake system. I just need to decide whether I am going to go with a 29er or stay 26" wheels.
    Plum
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    This post is in 3B, three beers and it looks good eh!

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