Anyone have an opinion on QR skewers versus nuts for rear hubs. I have an old piece of crap sitting in the corner of the shed that has semi horizontal, forward-facing drops that is next in line for ss conversion. Trying to decide on using a QR for the drops or nuts but can't decide which are more stable (less prone to slippage). Does it even matter?
If you use an old-school skewer with a steel nut and steel lever side, and crank it down very tight, and the old frame has bare steel dropouts (not chromed) it will probably hold. However, track nuts are the way to go if you don't want to worry about it.
But, seriously, folks.... a good solid steel QR can be slip proof. You know, the internal cam, steel serations on the faces of nut and QR, steel skewer kind.
I've had both types (nut or QR) slip in at one time or another. So I just gave up and went to a frame with an eccentric bb, or sliding vertical dropouts. Then I just can have a user friendly (flat tire repair, fitting in the trunk...) QR style rear wheel.
Anyone have an opinion on QR skewers versus nuts for rear hubs. I have an old piece of crap sitting in the corner of the shed that has semi horizontal, forward-facing drops that is next in line for ss conversion. Trying to decide on using a QR for the drops or nuts but can't decide which are more stable (less prone to slippage). Does it even matter?
Yes, it matters. (1) One problem you may not have heard of is this - when tightening the nuts the axle itself may turn. What does that do? On the other side of the drop is a pair of bearing preload nuts (shimano hub). The axle turning will loosen the preload so you get hub slop.
(2) You must carry a wrench in case of a flat.
1. Your reasoning is sound, but you would have to have some pretty crappy nuts and/or axle to have the nut turn the axle itself rather than the nut. In a long time, I've never had this happen.
2. Carrying a wrench is more weight in your pack, but doesn't that just make you stronger?
1. Your reasoning is sound, but you would have to have some pretty crappy nuts and/or axle to have the nut turn the axle itself rather than the nut. In a long time, I've never had this happen.
2. Carrying a wrench is more weight in your pack, but doesn't that just make you stronger?
1. (Happened to me) When you get down to it there are 3 surfaces providing friction to keep the axle from rotating when the nut is wrenched, the nut on the other end and the bearing locknuts - each pressing against the drops. If the 2 surfaces on the other end have relatively less friction then it happens. So you have to alternate tightening each side so the axle never rotates. Your mileage may vary - I put on substantial torque because of slipping problems.
You don't have to worry about the axle twisting if you use a good set of track nuts, not just any nuts with the same thread pitch. The Campy ones aren't cheap, but they're totally worth the money (if they work on your axles).
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