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  1. #1
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    Thinking about getting an SS

    Hey, What are some good entry level SS mountain bikes out there for sale? I've got a geared mtb that I've broken the axle on 3 times because of its freewheel setup so i was thinking about converting that to an SS, but I'd also like to know what's out there to buy new for SS. Preferable something that has at least front suspension.

    thanks,
    Evan

  2. #2
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    im more concerned about how you break three axles? because of freewheel setup? im confused.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by estenger View Post
    Hey, What are some good entry level SS mountain bikes out there for sale? I've got a geared mtb that I've broken the axle on 3 times because of its freewheel setup so i was thinking about converting that to an SS, but I'd also like to know what's out there to buy new for SS. Preferable something that has at least front suspension.

    thanks,
    Evan
    Is the axle a QR? I am most definitely not telling you to not get a dedicated SS as I LOVE my MUSS. I am just wondering if you tried a solid thru axle for the rear instead of a QR? I would also say if you don't have an issue with a used ride, check CL and ebay for deals. Finally, it is much easier to answer a more specific question than list every possibility. What about wheel size, frame material, and perhaps most importantly price? Happy hunting!
    No fuss with the MUSS

  4. #4
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    Right now it does have a QR. It breaks in the same place every time due to the freewheel setup having the bearings so far away from the frame. It creates a big bending moment that keeps snapping the axle. Even on small jumps...

    dbhammercy: Is it possible to change the QR setup to a solid through axle? I've haven't done much work with bikes before, besides changing the axle three times...

    And after a little more research I've been looking into a rigid SS. Probably a 4130 chromoly frame, 29er. I was thinking that if I go rigid frame I would want a 29er to absorb more of the impact. Would that make sense? I saw some posts about monocog bikes that look interesting.

  5. #5
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    I imagine if you can replace the QR axle you can do the same with a solid threaded axle just as well. That said, perhaps have your LBS do it for you if you have concerns. There may be a conversion kit available with all the necessaries. It should be stiffer and hopefully tougher for you to break.

    I don't have one, but the moncogs seem to fit the bill nicely for others. Test ride one first if you are unfamiliar with the bigger wheels. I personally am not in the 29er camp, but different wheels for different folks.
    No fuss with the MUSS

  6. #6
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    I'm going to look into the solid axle for my current bike then. So instead of the quick release mechanism on the outside there would just be a nut on both sides? And somehow the only thing that kept the bike going, each one of those times, was the QR axle. The main hollow axle cracked all the way around and the QR axle just bent each time without breaking. Which allowed me to still ride the bike.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by estenger View Post
    So instead of the quick release mechanism on the outside there would just be a nut on both sides?
    Yup, track nuts. Happy Rollin!
    No fuss with the MUSS

  8. #8
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    I wouldn't bother replacing the QR axle with a solid one. That design worked OK on road bikes with high quality hubs and narrow 5 or 6 speed spacing but for mountain biking you need a cassette hub. A solid chrome-moly axle might last a little longer before breaking but will still quickly bend at the FW side bearing point. You could probably ride the rest of your life and not bend a QR axle on a cassette hub.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek View Post
    im more concerned about how you break three axles? because of freewheel setup? im confused.
    Yes, me too.

    But I love my SS Nashbar 29er, Redline Monocog is very nice too.
    Fat, drunk, and stupid is no way to go through life son...

  10. #10
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    Stop by your local Redline dealer and pick up a Monocog. Best bang/buck, in my opinion.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Natedogz View Post
    Yes, me too.
    Isn't it just because of the freewheel hub setup? File:Labeled Bicycle Hub Comparison-en.svg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    Stop by your local Redline dealer and pick up a Monocog. Best bang/buck, in my opinion.
    Yeah I've been seriously considering buying one of those Monocogs. They look like a sweet ride. That or I heard of both the Nashbar 29er, and the GT peace 9r.

    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    I wouldn't bother replacing the QR axle with a solid one. That design worked OK on road bikes with high quality hubs and narrow 5 or 6 speed spacing but for mountain biking you need a cassette hub. A solid chrome-moly axle might last a little longer before breaking but will still quickly bend at the FW side bearing point. You could probably ride the rest of your life and not bend a QR axle on a cassette hub.
    Ok. Well then that leads me to my next option, because I agree with you that It will probably break with the kind of riding I like. I need to find a new rear wheel. Now when I look for a new wheel I know that the stock wheel is a 26 incher. Is there any other specs I really need to make sure match up? Like the axle width? Number of gears (stock is 8)? I would just want to make sure that everything would still work like stock with a new wheel. Not looking to get anything super pricey. I've found a few wheels for around $50-60. I just don't know how to make sure they will match up. And the cassette setups look like I'll have to buy my own cogs. So will all the cogs have to be same gear ratio? Or will that not really matter?

    Sorry for the long winded response.
    Thanks,
    Evan

  12. #12
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    Deffinetly look at the monocog, I have regular monocog, the flight version had some issues with the rear sliding drop outs coming loose. Mine had horizontal drop outs like BMX bike. Regarding your rear cog question. If your current rim had a shimano style rear hub and the new wheel has the same, you can remove the locking ring on the end of the hub to remove the casset then reinstall the casset on your new wheel. If your casset is held on by the smallest cog on the casset then your SOL cause it wont fit on shimano style hub. If this is the case though you can buy a new casset for close to cheap on ebay. Also your post above linking to Wikipedia, the top hub was for mountain bike, bottom hub was bmx style, the free wheel threads onto the end of the hub for bmx. Mountain bike casset slides over splinned part of hub and is held inplace by the locking ring.

  13. #13
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    Just remembered, and dont quote me on this but the rear spacing on a MTB should 135mm. Also if you dont want to spend alot on a SS or not sure if you will like it. You can pickup a 90s trek 800 series or 900 series MTB on CL for cheap and do a conversion to SS. That is what I started out on, but now have Monocog. I have since put road type tires on my trek and ride it on towpath and road.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEOHIO Ray View Post
    Regarding your rear cog question. If your current rim had a shimano style rear hub and the new wheel has the same, you can remove the locking ring on the end of the hub to remove the casset then reinstall the casset on your new wheel. If your casset is held on by the smallest cog on the casset then your SOL cause it wont fit on shimano style hub. If this is the case though you can buy a new casset for close to cheap on ebay. Also your post above linking to Wikipedia, the top hub was for mountain bike, bottom hub was bmx style, the free wheel threads onto the end of the hub for bmx. Mountain bike casset slides over splinned part of hub and is held inplace by the locking ring.
    See, that's the problem. My mtb did not come with the cassette setup. It came with a thread on shimano 7 spd freewheel setup. I think I said 8 spd before. It's this 7 spd. https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ed=0CE0Q8wIwAA

    So I would have to convert to a cassette setup from the freewheel hub setup. That's why I was concerned about getting the right cogs, and width for the frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by NEOHIO Ray View Post
    Just remembered, and dont quote me on this but the rear spacing on a MTB should 135mm. Also if you dont want to spend alot on a SS or not sure if you will like it. You can pickup a 90s trek 800 series or 900 series MTB on CL for cheap and do a conversion to SS. That is what I started out on, but now have Monocog. I have since put road type tires on my trek and ride it on towpath and road.
    That's an interesting idea. I was almost thinking about changing the current bike to a single speed when if I change the wheel. I've read that you can use the cassette setup with a bunch of spacers to line up a single cog in the back and then drop the derailleurs and change the front crank, but at that point I might as well just buy a monocog and keep the current bike as a geared with suspension.

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