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  1. #1
    Some Dude
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    Tassajara Conversion

    Gonna pick up this older fisher for $50 and convert it to ss for a friend. From what I have read, it has a threaded headset and it looks like the seat post clamp is part of the frame. Anything else special about this frame? Will my octalink bb tool work on it? Anyone know the year?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tassajara Conversion-uploadfromtaptalk1325370939610.jpg  


  2. #2
    mtbr member
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    I don't think the Octalink tool will work on the cranks. you need the smaller one for standard ST cranks.

    what brakes are you putting on it? do you have levers that will work on the brakes? (cantis and v-brakes require a slightly different lever.)

  3. #3
    Some Dude
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    Not sure what i will put on it, something cheap. I will see what's up tuesday.

  4. #4
    one chain loop
    Reputation: fishcreek's Avatar
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    early 90's? 17-18" frame size. look like 1 1/8" fork which you can upgrade to threadless.

    if it was my conversion, i keep the frame, fork, wheels, post and tires and the rest will be changed.

    run a stem adapter so i can run a regular stem. the stock quill is okay but usually very long 90mm+.

    i would run v-brakes too as long as it has cablestops for the rear to do that.

    it will be a decent SS conversion for sure.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  5. #5
    Turn off the TV
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    Get a Performance conversion kit, they are cheap and good enough until you see if you like it. Keep the cranks and just take off the outer and inner ring. File down the chain ring bolts and put the middle back on. There you go. Don't go whole hog until you know you love it.

  6. #6
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    I wouldn't file down the chain ring bolts. Just go to your local bike shop and purchase short stack chain ring bolts (like $5).

    I have a Fisher Tassajara just like that one for sale (unconverted). It has a 19.5" frame. So far nobody wants it.

  7. #7
    Pedal Over It
    Reputation: aeros's Avatar
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    I have a 97 Tass I am converting, looks just like that one you have. Good luck.
    “Wise men speak because they have something to say; Fools because they have to say something.” - Plato

  8. #8
    Some Dude
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    Picked up yesterday, decent condition. Gonna upgrade brakes, stem, bars, grips, need a quill adaptor too.

  9. #9
    Some Dude
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    Got around to removing the shifters yesterday. Looks like this bike has the older threaded cassette on it. Seems like if I put a freewheel on there the chainline cannot be lined up. Do I need a new hub?

  10. #10
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    do you have a cassette, or a freewheel? cassettes are not threaded, they just slide on with a lock ring on the end.

    how big is the smallest cog on the rear wheel? if it's 11 or 12 teeth, that would be a cassette, so you can use a SS cog and spacers to make that work. if the smallest cog is 14t or so, it's probably a freewheel.

    if it's a freewheel, you need to do more work:
    1. remove the multi-freewheel
    2. remove the axle. just take the lock nut and cone nut off of one side of the axle. while you're in there, remove the bearings and clean everything up. re-pack the bearings and...
    3. re-install the axle, but, this time, put it in the opposite direction. you will notice that the right side of the axle as a thick spacer on it to take up the space inside that wide multi-gear freewheel. you want to put that side of the axle with the thick spacer on the left side so the shorter side of the axle is on the right. this will bring the SS freewheel closer to the dropout and closer to being in-line with the front chainring.
    4. once the axle cone nuts are set so there is not wobble and the bearings are smooth, go ahead and thread the SS freewheel on. use grease on those threads or the freewheel will never come off!
    5. if you install the wheel on the bike at this point, you will notice that the wheel sits severely to the right inside the frame. the tire might even rub on the chainstay. this is because you just changed the axle spacing on the hub to accommodate for the SS chainline. you need to "re-dish" the wheel now. you can probably pull this off by loosening all of the right (drive) side spokes a bit and tightening the left (non-drive) spokes until the wheel is centered over the axle again. this is a lot of work and requires some Jedi wheel truing skills.

    if all that sounds too involved, you would be better off with a new wheel.

  11. #11
    Some Dude
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    I have the "Thread on freewheel and hub" as seen in the pic here from sheldon brown:



    So I guess I got the term wrong. Thanks for the how to. Not sure what to do, might re-dish. Hmmm.

  12. #12
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    re-dishing can be done, but sometimes it's a lot of work. I have had to completely re-build a few wheels because the non-drive side spokes are sometimes so much longer than the drive side spokes as to make dishing the wheel impossible at that point. when I realize that the left side spokes are threaded all the way in and the right side spokes are barely hanging on my two thread in the nipple, it's time to rebuild. if you don't mind re-using spokes (which I do all the time), you can just swap the spokes.

  13. #13
    one chain loop
    Reputation: fishcreek's Avatar
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    i did a freewheel conversion before but you are limited on gear choices because you have to re-use the old sprockets. but if you are in a tight budget, this will do.



    DMC made a step by step guide here:
    Homemade SS Freewheels - step-by-step photo guide
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

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