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  1. #26
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    Looking good!

  2. #27
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    I had to remove the paint off the fork at the front brake mount to keep the pads from rubbing the disc. I guess they don't account for paint thickness in their setup. Also had a horrible time adjusting the headset. After about 30 minutes I took it apart and found that I had a bearing in upside down, what an idiot. Position feels good, I might drop the stem down an additional 5mm. Bike runs great now, here it is in all its pollen covered goodness:

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super duper On-one Inbred Build!! (urban style)-dsc04472.jpg  

    Super duper On-one Inbred Build!! (urban style)-dsc04473.jpg  

    Super duper On-one Inbred Build!! (urban style)-dsc04476.jpg  


  3. #28
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    Nice bike, the fork and seat stays are awesome.

  4. #29
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    Great build; I'll take one for around town.

  5. #30
    Ovaries on the Outside
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    What is the width on the bar? I was imagining wider...

  6. #31
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    600 mm. I prefer a narrower bar, even on a SS.

  7. #32
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    So hows the ride? Loving the build! It made me want to build an urban go around bike as well. We should start an urban style thread to see other builds...

  8. #33
    Big Paws on a Puppy!!
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    Well Done!!

    That's a good looking build. I've got an old Marzocchi Shiver SC fork and a set of NOS Shimano XT 4-Pot brakes that I was thinking of throwing on my Inbred frame and doing an urban bike of my own. After seeing this thread I just might pull the trigger.
    ‎"My bicycle masters boardwalk and quagmire with aplomb." - Tom Nuttall

  9. #34
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    Very nice, those hookworms roll nice and smooth? thinking of getting a set for my old dawes road bike/

  10. #35
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    hookworms are great! I have the 2.5s and I wouldnt go any narrower on a rigid.
    "Never mistake motion for action."

    "If I can bicycle, I bicycle."

  11. #36
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    Very nice!

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by esq3585 View Post
    Very nice, those hookworms roll nice and smooth? thinking of getting a set for my old dawes road bike/
    Yea I really like the hookworms on the road. They are pretty heavy but grip is amazing.

    I've got it set up for offroad use right now, check it out.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super duper On-one Inbred Build!! (urban style)-screenshot_2012-09-09-19-38-44.jpg  


  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by esq3585 View Post
    Very nice, those hookworms roll nice and smooth? thinking of getting a set for my old dawes road bike/
    Yea I really like the hookworms on the road. They are pretty heavy but grip is amazing.

    I've got it set up for offroad use right now, check it out.

  14. #39
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    Another Inbred Build

    Hello
    I'm new at 'mtbr' and understand I'm probably violating some forum protocol by just posting my maintenance questions in somebody else's post. I would create my own thread. However, because I just now stopped lurking and actually joined the forum, I cannot create my own thread. I'd still appreciate anybody's help.

    Here is my issue:
    I've built an On On Inbred very similar to this one. All I lack is installing the rear avid bb7 caliper. The front one is installed and well adjusted so i'm familiar with the process.
    However, I'm having problems with the rear one only. Because I read this thread, I realized that the Inbred's mounting brackets would create clearance issues for a 160mm rotor, and so I used a 180mm rotor. I've installed the rotor, but when I install the caliper as I did up front and according to SRAM's videos, the rotor is rubbing the outboard pad no matter what I do.

    Am I doing something wrong installing the caliper or is this a problem of the rotor not being true? The rubbing seems to be evenly distributed throughout the entire revolution of the wheel. And it honestly doesn't seem to be creating huge problems. I just would like the pads and rotors I shelled a relatively large amount of money on (for my budget) to be well adjusted and running perfectly the first time I take this new bike on a legitimate ride.

    Please let me know what other information could be useful if you think you can help me figure something out. I can send pictures if necessary.

    Thanks

  15. #40
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    Hi there, I have also built a urban Inbred and here are my two cents:

    - I also had bad time to adjust the rotors BB7 calipers front and rear. I initially thought the rotors were not true. But with time and effort the friction was gone. Now it works very well (front).

    - Just a note concerning my build: it is a On One Inbred 29er 19.5" frame - as this is quite a big frame, the BB7 caliper fits just fine with a 160mm rotor (I attach a photo but not easy to see).

    Now the beast has been transformed into a urban fixie so no more rear brake and much more fun
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super duper On-one Inbred Build!! (urban style)-29er-des-villes_001.jpg  


  16. #41
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    Woops. repost
    Last edited by as2003; 12-13-2012 at 08:07 AM.

  17. #42
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    Xavonseine,

    could you please explain what you mean by "time and effort"?

    I have no plan on making this bike fixed and so I'd like to know how to get rid of the friction (aside from just riding it out ).
    What sort of time and effort did it take?
    I am also riding a 19.5 frame. You didn't have the issues discussed earlier in this thread with tightening the pinch bolt when the caliper is adjusted to a 160mm rotor?

  18. #43
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    When you tighten the pads to lock the rotor before tightening the CPS mounting bolts, can't you just add a few clicks to the outboard pad?
    I find I need to use at least 6-8 clicks of the outboard pad when tightening the mounting bolts to allow enough retraction so that the pads don't rub.

  19. #44
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    as2003: indeed I had no problem mounting the rear BB7 caliper with a 160mm rotor on my Inbred 29er 19.5" frame (even if the space is tight, it worked). So rationally this should work for you?

    Concerning my notion of "time and effort", this is a bit less rational and the slight friction probably totally disappeared simply by wearing/rubbing the pads for a little while. Yes, this qualifies for "effort" ... As for the "time", these BB7 were initially mounted on my Kona Unit and apart from briefly riding it with pain I spent some time playing with the few clicks to retract the pads before tightening the caliper mounting bolts as much better described by Slash5 above. Sorry not to provide a clear answer but maybe other forum members like Slash5 have a more serious experience with this?

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash5 View Post
    When you tighten the pads to lock the rotor before tightening the CPS mounting bolts, can't you just add a few clicks to the outboard pad?
    I find I need to use at least 6-8 clicks of the outboard pad when tightening the mounting bolts to allow enough retraction so that the pads don't rub.
    I've done this and I've even pushed the outboard pad almost all the way in and after tightening the bolts it still ends up rubbing.
    I think I will try one more time with the 180mm, since last time I started at the end of a long day and was hangry (hungry/angry). If I have no success, I'll give the 160mm a shot.

    Fingers crossed and thanks for the responses.

    P.S. If all else fails do you think it's a terrible idea to try hand-truing the rotors (for amateurs like myself) as shiggy does here?

    There is supposed to be a link to a youtube video called rotor truing by titustiusa, but the forum fears that I am spamming.

  21. #46
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    It isn't a rotor truing problem if it rubs all the way around. You could try the 160 rotor just to make sure it isn't the rotor but it should make no difference.
    Is the actuating lever all the way back - the brake isn't part way on?
    Are you sure the pad is seated in the caliper properly?
    The only suggestion I can make is to try removing the paint off the frame where the caliper bracket mounts. I saw one post where someone had to do that.

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