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  1. #1
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    New question here. Sturmey cog not working out ... good choices in compact cranks?

    I built up my 29"er in October with 34x22 gearing, using a Sturmey-Archer (!) cog. Redhaze has been doing this for a while, and it turned out that after just a couple minutes of filing it slips right onto a Shimano freehub. I wasn't sure about the long-term durability of this setup, since the cog has only three splines - and since the cog's splines have rounded edges, whereas the freehub splines are square-edged. OTOH, the XT hub shell is steel so it should be reasonably durable. Thought I'd run this setup for a while and see how it held up.

    Well, after 200 miles the Sturmey cog is starting to chew up the freehub body a bit. Not enough to cause substantial damage, but enough to cause concern about the long-term viability of this setup. My main options are either (a) stay 34x22 and buy a Boone Ti cog, or (b) drop down to a 32x20 setup. The latter option means new cranks, since my 12 year old DXs are 110/74, but I've been considering replacing those relics anyway. Going to stay with square taper.

    Some of the crank choices appear to be:

    - NOS Ritchey 94/58 5-arm cranks. Cambria's got these for $60 (arms only), and they frequently come up on eBay for about the same price. I've heard really good things about the stiffness of Ritchey's unique 5-arm design.
    - Ritchey Comp 4-arm cranks. Cambria's got the square taper version of these for $60 too.
    - Shimano LX M570. Hollowtech arms but still square taper, ALSO $60 at Cambria.

    I don't have a strong preference in the 5-arm vs. 4-arm department as long as they're good cranks. My criteria are durability, stiffness (since it is a singlespeed) and reasonably light weight, in that order. (And of course price - I'd like to stay under $100, 32t ring included)

    Experience or opinions on any of these?

  2. #2
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    Reputation: >>ECB<<'s Avatar
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    Ok, here goes....

    Quote Originally Posted by GlowBoy
    Some of the crank choices appear to be:

    - NOS Ritchey 94/58 5-arm cranks. Cambria's got these for $60 (arms only), and they frequently come up on eBay for about the same price. I've heard really good things about the stiffness of Ritchey's unique 5-arm design.
    - Ritchey Comp 4-arm cranks. Cambria's got the square taper version of these for $60 too.
    - Shimano LX M570. Hollowtech arms but still square taper, ALSO $60 at Cambria.

    I don't have a strong preference in the 5-arm vs. 4-arm department as long as they're good cranks. My criteria are durability, stiffness (since it is a singlespeed) and reasonably light weight, in that order. (And of course price - I'd like to stay under $100, 32t ring included)

    Experience or opinions on any of these?
    --The 5-arm cranks are better for singlespeeding than the 4-arm ones; chainrings for the former are better supported and less likely to warp under load.

    --The Ritcheys score more style points, since they're relatively rare and non-Shimano. However, the "hidden 5th arm" design is a bit of a pain to work with, since you have to have an extra-short chainring bolt, and tighten it down in a very confined space. The best way to go here is to get a TA self-inserting (serrated) bolt; Sheldon Brown or Peter White could give you the hook-up.

    Hope this helps.

    ECB

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlowBoy
    I built up my 29"er in October with 34x22 gearing, using a Sturmey-Archer (!) cog.....
    ... My main options are either (a) stay 34x22 and buy a Boone Ti cog, or (b) drop down to a 32x20 setup.
    You can also use a GCA from Spicer and a 22t granny chainring.

  4. #4
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    Thanks, that's just the kind of info I was looking for

    Quote Originally Posted by >>ECB<<
    --The 5-arm cranks are better for singlespeeding than the 4-arm ones; chainrings for the former are better supported and less likely to warp under load.

    --The Ritcheys score more style points, since they're relatively rare and non-Shimano. However, the "hidden 5th arm" design is a bit of a pain to work with, since you have to have an extra-short chainring bolt, and tighten it down in a very confined space. The best way to go here is to get a TA self-inserting (serrated) bolt; Sheldon Brown or Peter White could give you the hook-up.

    Hope this helps.

    ECB
    Hey, thanks for the feedback. That's just exactly what I wanted to know. I'll stick with 5-arm. Fortunately I don't change rings on my mountain bike very often (the other bike is a very different story) so I won't worry about the 5th-bolt difficulties. Appreciate the information.

    Also thanks itsdoable for the GCA tip.

  5. #5
    Speedhub doc.
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    chainring/cog choices

    30 tooth rings are available in a 74mm 5 bolt pattern (tandem inner rings), you'd be able to keep your cranks, all the cranks that you had mentioned are fine, but are designed to work with a narrow spindle (107mm~113mm) whereas your dx cranks would use a longer spindle...Can you source out a 22 tooth "uniglide cog" these are the pre hyperglide cogs with a taller "twist" tooth profile...Works good for singlespeed use..

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