Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    NedwannaB
    Reputation: JMac47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    8,437

    Soulcraft Convert

    Just put one of these on a geared frame and using a Paul SS specific hub on wheel. I looked on the site but pic doesn't really show what I'm having the issue with. The fastener on the "wheel side" of the pully is almost touching the spokes. Anyone have this situation or a close up of their setup?

    Thanks in advance-JMac
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: davesauvageau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,046
    No experience with the Convert but this statement is brilliant! From the Soulcraft site:

    * Will work on mountain, cross, and road bikes, but not on fixed gear or full suspension bikes, which are nonsense.
    My motorcycle runs on infant blood

  3. #3
    NedwannaB
    Reputation: JMac47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    8,437

    Off other bike

    Quote Originally Posted by davesauvageau View Post
    No experience with the Convert but this statement is brilliant! From the Soulcraft site:

    * Will work on mountain, cross, and road bikes, but not on fixed gear or full suspension bikes, which are nonsense.
    Yeah was using it on another bike with a geared hub wheel/cog spacer kit so with less dish on drive side and might not have noticed issue having now.

    The clearence between the nut on of the inside of the tensioner and the spokes is only a spoke thickness.

    *Sorry for sideways shot.....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Soulcraft Convert-soulcraft-tensioner.jpg  

    Last edited by JMac47; 09-26-2012 at 08:33 AM. Reason: typo
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  4. #4
    Dinner for wolves
    Reputation: buddhak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,525
    Fixed gears? Nonsense? I am so hurt by this.

    OP, are those washers under the bolt head that attaches the pulley to the device arm? If so, can you remove them? You can always shorten the bolt if you need to, or source a shorter bolt. I imagine that would buy you 1-2mm.
    Responds to gravity

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: davesauvageau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,046
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak View Post
    fixed gears? Nonsense? I am so hurt by this.

    Op, are those washers under the bolt head that attaches the pulley to the device arm? If so, can you remove them? You can always shorten the bolt if you need to, or source a shorter bolt. I imagine that would buy you 1-2mm.
    +1!
    My motorcycle runs on infant blood

  6. #6
    NedwannaB
    Reputation: JMac47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    8,437

    Exatly, but a little more to it...

    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak View Post
    Fixed gears? Nonsense? I am so hurt by this.

    OP, are those washers under the bolt head that attaches the pulley to the device arm? If so, can you remove them? You can always shorten the bolt if you need to, or source a shorter bolt. I imagine that would buy you 1-2mm.
    I don't remember the bolt/spacer washers sticking out that far before when the shop I bought parts from, and did the set up for this one (new Razzo alum frame) and on the other bike. The shop owner was away at Interbike when I picked up bike/sent pic to him and haven't heard back from him on it as of yet. And during build the shop mech called saying he had to "jimmy" things around abit to get correct chain line. Puzzled me more, as it's a standard 68/73 bb shell, using a new e13/Hive SS crankset and a Niner SS chainring which they provided (that was flipped around backwards on crankarms). Seems like abit more then abit to dial in a SS specific component setup. Plus f/r tires were installed opposite from shop build tag, and the handlebar remote poplock gizmo was mounted on opposite side (right hand) then had been mounted on other bike before. Could be wrong but pretty sure they are designed to go on the left with the Reba RLT 100mm.

    Rant over and at the risk of getting flamed for an SS'r and not working on his own bike!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Soulcraft Convert-soulcraft-tensioner.jpg  

    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  7. #7
    nothing to see here
    Reputation: Stevob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    3,020
    Just because you've got a ss specific rear wheel and a ss specific crankset doesn't mean that they will produce the same chainline. What do the manufacturers specs say? Also, you may get more clearance by running that tensioner in the push up mode if possible.

    Small flame here for apparently not buying a ss specific frame to start with.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  8. #8
    Dinner for wolves
    Reputation: buddhak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,525
    You know what, i made an assumption. Is it the pulley rim or the bolt that is too close? I just realized that ditching those washers would not solve your problem if it was the pulley itself that was too close. Can you show the tensioner mounting to the derailleur hanger?
    Responds to gravity

  9. #9
    NedwannaB
    Reputation: JMac47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    8,437
    No, was good assumption. But yes it's the bolt. At first I thought they used washers on to slid pully out (away from wheel) to help chain line. But that didn't make sense since they reversed chainring which positioned it inward. Now that I've calmed down and vented due to not being able to ride it fearing a slight flex in frame or wheel would end up peeling spokes off the hub!! I'll look at it again when I get home.
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  10. #10
    NedwannaB
    Reputation: JMac47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    8,437

    Flame acknowledged

    Quote Originally Posted by Stevob View Post
    Just because you've got a ss specific rear wheel and a ss specific crankset doesn't mean that they will produce the same chainline. What do the manufacturers specs say? Also, you may get more clearance by running that tensioner in the push up mode if possible.

    Small flame here for apparently not buying a ss specific frame to start with.
    I didn't just "get" the wheel and crank for this build. I just came across an economical frame to put these reletively new parts on to get an SS rollin again. My intial inquiry was more towards since the setup is now being used "this time" on an SS hub wheel being wider flange is what's causing the tight clearence at the spokes. The other comments were just a combination of quirks with the build in general. And yes it's the regular lbs that gets 90% of my bike revenue, the other 10% is more local right in town for misc knick-knacks, and such.

    Now, for my small return flame, wouldn't the pully be up closer to the hub/spoke connection in push mode?
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: zukrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    260
    is it sacrilegious to add some extra chain links so it will push lower? does it have enough length to create a proper arc/tension ratio? do i make any sense?

    it seems the SS specific hub is the issue.
    2012 Airborne Guardian.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •