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  1. #1
    And He was Not
    Reputation: Enoch's Avatar
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    S/S Road gearing

    I'm building a S/S road bike, What would be good gearing ? I ride a 40 mile loop and it's got 2000 feet of climbing. I run a 2:1 on my MTB. and I'm in decent shape. I figured I would ride it single for a while then go fixie if I like it. Need some good starting ratio's.

  2. #2
    paintbucket
    Reputation: wooglin's Avatar
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    About 72" (e.g., 42x16) is the standard starting point for a road fix. Similar to how 2:1 is for a trail bike. Then adjust from there. I run a 45x18, which is about 69" I think, and on a trail SS with 26" wheels I run a 32x18.
    When the going gets weird its bedtime.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: SSSasky's Avatar
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    I run ...

    42:15 in a relatively flat area ... works well for me, and i can back pedal relatively comfortably (although it took a few months for my knees to get used to that kind of force)

  4. #4
    rejected
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    I run 44x16 in flat a$$ boston.

  5. #5
    all hail der Fuhrer Bush
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    my fact differs from yours

    Quote Originally Posted by wooglin
    About 72" (e.g., 42x16) is the standard starting point for a road fix. Similar to how 2:1 is for a trail bike. Then adjust from there. I run a 45x18, which is about 69" I think, and on a trail SS with 26" wheels I run a 32x18.
    And I would be equally adamant that a fixed gear of around 65" is the de facto standard for road training, couple inches higher if flat terrain, couple lower if dirt roads. So let's say 63"-70". At least since the '70s when I began racing and began associating with racers who rode fixers in the winter to maintain fitness and improve their spin, it was 65". I've read similar advice re: 65" in any number of books and magazine articles. Although your analogy that 72"/road is to 52"(2:1)/trail is consistent, as I don't know anyone who rides that high a trail gear.
    45/18=67.5" with a 27" wheel; 65" with 26" wheel..
    32/18=46.2" with 26" wheel.
    Don't pay the $85 fee to ride land you own! Resist!

  6. #6
    "Mr. Britannica"
    Reputation: roadiegonebad's Avatar
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    This question came up on a road site awhile ago. By far, the most common gearing that people used was 65", achieved by either 42x17 or 39x16 (on 700c wheels).

  7. #7
    paintbucket
    Reputation: wooglin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bulC
    And I would be equally adamant that a fixed gear of around 65" is the de facto standard for road training, couple inches higher if flat terrain, couple lower if dirt roads.
    I wasn't adamant, just suggesting a start point. And now that I've checked Sheldon's page a 42x16 is more like 70". And still a good starting point. I'm lower right now because I'm supposed spin not mash in the winter. All the old roadies say so. Even bulC.
    When the going gets weird its bedtime.

  8. #8
    And He was Not
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    24 mph

    I stuck a 44/17 on it with a tensioner.The 44 was on some MTB cranks and it was the only ones I had that were 175mm long. It seemed pretty good around the neighborhood. It spins out at about 24 mph. I think I can go 44/16 with no tensioning device, but I don't know if I can stand it for 40 miles.
    Thanks for the feedback.

  9. #9
    paintbucket
    Reputation: wooglin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enoch
    I stuck a 44/17 on it with a tensioner.The 44 was on some MTB cranks and it was the only ones I had that were 175mm long. It seemed pretty good around the neighborhood. It spins out at about 24 mph. I think I can go 44/16 with no tensioning device, but I don't know if I can stand it for 40 miles.
    Thanks for the feedback.
    You might think about some shorter cranks. Pedal strikes on a fix are no fun.
    When the going gets weird its bedtime.

  10. #10
    And He was Not
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    Got "em

    Quote Originally Posted by wooglin
    You might think about some shorter cranks. Pedal strikes on a fix are no fun.
    I've got a couple of 170's and a set of 172.5's. I'm still riding it as a single right now, but if I go fixie, I heard this could be a issue. I'm also sure I'll miss that extra leverage. but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

  11. #11
    "Mr. Britannica"
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    If you go fixed, you won't want to be using a tensioner.

  12. #12
    Where's Toto?
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    If you go with a freewheel, you can run a lower gear because you can always coast the downhills. If you go fixed, you need to run a gear high enough to allow your legs to keep up on the downhill. I live in a fairly hilly area (not 2000 ft of climbing though) and on my winter fixie I run a 46x18. On my SS cross bike, I run a 36x18 for off road riding. I drop it down to a 36x16 or 17 when I flip it to fixed for road riding. You won't want to run a tensioner with a fixed gear as it will cause it to wrap if you back pedal -- with the f/w it's fine.
    Last edited by endure26; 01-02-2005 at 05:52 PM.

  13. #13
    And He was Not
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadiegonebad
    If you go fixed, you won't want to be using a tensioner.
    For sure on the tensioner, I may also run into some chain length versus ratio problems with the fixie also. the frame only has verticle drop outs. but I got it cheap so I figured I'd try it with a free hub first.

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