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  1. #1
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    Rear disk brake adapter

    I know I have seen this before, but I don't even know how to search for it.

    It's an adapter that either fits in a horizontal dropout, or just around the hub which allows use of a rear disk for those who don't have the tabs. Does anyone know of what I'm describing? Thanks.

  2. #2
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    A2Z Disc Brake Adapter?

    I bought one and put it on my GT Zaskar frame. So far it works perfectly. Not hard to set up and everything fit perfectly. I put BB7s on mine.

    I got mine off of ebay.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiing9689
    I know I have seen this before, but I don't even know how to search for it.

    It's an adapter that either fits in a horizontal dropout, or just around the hub which allows use of a rear disk for those who don't have the tabs. Does anyone know of what I'm describing? Thanks.
    Yes, A2Z adapters has one for just about anything you could inagine. Some are multi use and will take some playing to get the brakes to line up but, they work.

  4. #4
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    I haev in my possession a Woodman disc brake adapter which uses a proprietary hub that will only work with verticle drop-outs. It worked great for me on my RM Blizzard, but I sold the bike (with rim brakes on it) and kept the adapter. I'll try to post pics later.

  5. #5
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    A2Z disc brake adapter - pics

    a few years ago... after converting an older voodoo wanga frame to ss, i decided to add discs.

    here're a couple pics showing the A2Z installed.

    remarkable, to me anyway, are the way the thinner plate bends around the frame in order to snug up to the thicker plate (by design?), and also you'll see via the side-view pic that there is a movable "flap" -- during installation you rotate the flap into contact w the seat stay (in order to prevent the adaptor from slipping?).

    anyhoo... the system worked just fine for me.

    epilogue: about a year after converting the voodoo, i was fortunate enough to get a wonderful custom vulture ss frame, which i've been happy with since. but looking at the voodoo pics now, makes me long to build that bike back up again. you can never have too many bikes yes?

    ~g
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  6. #6
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    I just installed an A2Z on an older Voodoo frame last week. Anyone have any suggestions for lining it up/adjusting it? I can't get it to where the majority of brake pad surface area is over the rotor.

  7. #7
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    I have a brake therapy disk brake adapter that runs from your brake boss. It is not the lightest thing, but I have not had to adjust it in 2 years. Built very well and their customer service is excellent. I think it is 2 or 3 times the cost of the A2Z. I will take a pic of it tonight.

  8. #8
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    I've used several disc adapters, it's taken me a while to get all the pics collected.


    This is the cheapest one, and it works reasonable well on frames with flat dropout (not Breezer type dropouts).


    The Brake Therapy adapter was one of the 1st, and is still a decent solid device, not cheap, and you need an adapter on the hub as well.


    The Woodman Adapter is similar to the BT version, but it's designed to work with thier special hub. You can use a Shimano hub by shifting the axle. I liked this one the best, easiest wheel changes.


    AtomLab adapter is meant for horizontal wheel mounts only, originally for BMX bikes. Axle needs to be shifted, and it helps to add a torque arm.


    Pauls version (another BT copy) only works with their single speed hub.Wheel removal is a bit of a pain, because the adapter is permanently attached to the hub.


    This is the Specialized SharksFin adapter from their early FSR frame, and it has been used to convert many bikes to disc - our lbs used this for several Kona Hei Hei disc conversions, I have used it on a AMP B4 rear triangle. It requires you to drill a hole near the dropout to bolt on the adapter.

    Then we can get Getto:


    Modified from a BMX stem.


    Made from scratch - on a Santa Cruz Superlite.


    A hacked Woodman adapter to fit an old Catamount.

  9. #9
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    Breezer drop out

    What would work on a breezer drop out?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JediSith
    What would work on a breezer drop out?
    Brake Therapy, Woodman or Pauls. Or a Getto mount made for the frame.

  11. #11
    BMX'er getting big wheels
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    That BMX stem one is way cool, thats the kind of enginuity I like.
    '05 Jamis Komodo
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  12. #12
    Caught in a Trance (X2)
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    Does Anyone know what hubs can be used with the Brake therapy setup? The page for it has a list http://www.therapycomponents.com/btmoreinfo.htm But it is not specific on what type of hubs (i.e. it says "Shimano XT" is that ALL XT hubs? centerlock or 6 bolt?) Thanks!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by moose27e
    Does Anyone know what hubs can be used with the Brake therapy setup? The page for it has a list http://www.therapycomponents.com/btmoreinfo.htm But it is not specific on what type of hubs (i.e. it says "Shimano XT" is that ALL XT hubs? centerlock or 6 bolt?) Thanks!
    The adapter work on any XT hub that has 10mm axle, which is currently all XT disc hubs (as far as I know). Some re-spacing may be necessary on the centrelock hubs. It'll work on most LX and Deore hubs too. I found that the Shimano conversion was never perfect, I could never get the hub to spin as smoothly as the stock cones.

  14. #14
    psu cycling
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    As noted above (I forgot about this thread..) I couldn't get the A2Z to line up. I guess I never looked at the picture with the 'flap' rotated around as such. However, the junction of the chainstay and dropout on my Voodoo Bantu ('98 I think) did not allow me to rotate the device clockwise around the skewer far enough to bring the caliper down completely over the rotor. I'm giving the adapter to someone local this week, as I've changed bikes, so I'll let you guys know if it works for him.

  15. #15
    Caught in a Trance (X2)
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    Thanks for clearing that up! So then do you recommend the DT hub(s) or Chris King?

  16. #16
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    I need a Specialized Shark Fin adaptor SO BAD for my bike. If anyone can find one, PLEASE PM ME!!!

    Thanks!
    Clayton

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by moose27e
    Thanks for clearing that up! So then do you recommend the DT hub(s) or Chris King?
    Sorry - been on holiday (biking at a place with no cell coverage or internet access!)

    DT or CK, your pick. Both are good hubs, and their current page lists both as current conversions (both worked perfectly on my bikes). The DT conversion does not require pre-load adjustment, unlike the CK hubs.

    Also, thier most recent page (http://www.therapycomponents.com/hublist.htm) indicates that as far as Shimano is concerned, they only recommend the 6-bolt (ISO) hubs.

  18. #18
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    I want to make one

    How do they fit that adapter inside the stays withought making them wider? Do they replace the nut that keeps the left cone in place?
    On a quest to ride a never-ending wheelie

  19. #19
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    [

    Then we can get Getto:



    Lets talk more about that ghetto method of yours
    "If women don't find handsome , they should at least find you handy."-Red Green

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by x6thgearwideopen
    How do they fit that adapter inside the stays withought making them wider? Do they replace the nut that keeps the left cone in place?
    They are all different.

    Brake Therapy replaces the outer locknut or hub-end with one that allows the adapter to fit

    Woodman requires you to re-space the axle to 130mm.

    Pauls replaces the outer lock nut with the threaded adapter plate.

    Atomlab says to pry open the dropouts (or re-space the hub a few mm)

    The others do not interfere with the dropout.

    Quote Originally Posted by nuck_chorris
    Lets talk more about that ghetto method of yours
    What do you want to know. The CS were 22mm, bmx bars are 22mm. Hacksaw, file, drill & tap. Thats about it.

  21. #21
    Big Paws on a Puppy!!
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    A2Z Adapter

    I have one of the A2Z adapters that I picked up cheap on E-Bay. I want to try it on an old Kona frame with horizontal dropouts that I’d like to add disc brakes too. Like others have mentioned, I just can’t seem to let this frame go but it is in need of a technology update.

    I contacted A2Z a while back and was told the adapter would in fact work with the horizontal dropouts. I have a set of XT centerlock hubs mated to Sun rims and also a set of Tektro IO disc brakes I picked up cheap that I will use for proof of concept. Right now I’m trying to decide if I can mate the Tektro calibers to centerlock rotors or if I need to buy the “centerlock to six-bolt” adapters and use regular six-bolt rotors. I’ll post some pics once I get all the kinks worked out…. And if anybody has any feedback on the proper rotor type I should be using, I’m all ears…


    Thanks!!!
    Last edited by Ratman; 02-23-2009 at 06:54 AM.
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  22. #22
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    Longer bolts and more spacers work just fine.

  23. #23
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    Can you post some more info about your "ghetto" setup. Which exact BMX stem did you use? Did you then buy a disc adapter? Just any info / pictures from other angles would be awesome.

  24. #24
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    where can I get an A2z adapter?

  25. #25
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    I want to upgrade a Schwinn Home Grown MTB. Does anyone know can I get an A2Z brake adapter or soemthing similar?

    Thanks

  26. #26
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    Try....

    Quote Originally Posted by dsalinas
    I want to upgrade a Schwinn Home Grown MTB. Does anyone know can I get an A2Z brake adapter or soemthing similar?

    Thanks

    Here: http://cgi.ebay.com/A2Z-Rear-Disc-Br...#ht_2443wt_833

    or

    Here: http://cgi.ebay.com/A2Z-DISC-BRAKE-A...5#ht_500wt_975
    ‎"My bicycle masters boardwalk and quagmire with aplomb." - Tom Nuttall

  27. #27
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    A word about the A2Z Adapter

    As some have already mentioned in various threads the A2Z Adapter is not exactly the best option for adding disc brakes to a frame that does not already have rear disc tabs.

    In my personal experience the main issue with the A2Z is that the entire adapter & disc caliber will rotate backwards when braking under heavy load (i.e. applying brakes on a hill). In an effort to find a fix and make this adapter work, the first thing I did was to drill a hole through the outside A2Z Adapter plate. The hole was positioned to line up exactly with the frame rack mount. My thought being I could insert a screw and hold the entire adapter in place using the rack mount. That idea proved to be a non-starter for various reasons. What I did end up doing is using a piece of flexible metal, in case a window air conditioner mounting bracket to prevent the adapter from moving. 1st, I cut the bracket to fit. Then I wrapped it around the seat stay and used a screw to tighten the bracket to the adapter. Although its basically a crude band-aid, this fix has been rock solid. I've got about 4 rides on this setup with zero complaints (see attached photo).

    Eventually I plan to upgrade the Tektro's with a pair of BB7's I got from a friend but otherwise I'm happy with the outcome.

    True, the A2Z is not an ideal setup but it can be made to work well.

    Rear disk brake adapter-a2zadaptor.jpg
    ‎"My bicycle masters boardwalk and quagmire with aplomb." - Tom Nuttall

  28. #28
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    Thanks Ratman!

  29. #29
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    Good job! A2Z + home made torque rod = Brake Therapy Rear disc brake adapter

    i took the idea from brake therapy and made me a torque rod connecting the one of the caliper adapter bolt, through the torque rod to the original v-brake stem. it actually works - makes the whole A2Z adapter and the rear disc very stable under heavy braking situation. and this also proves the concept of how well brake therapy's theory works - the excessive brake force is being distributed to the monostay, not at the tiny little A2Z adapter.

    Parts to make the torque rod:
    - 1 x 120 - 140mm threaded rod
    - 2 x swivel joints
    - some bolts
    + some creativity
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rear disk brake adapter-torque_rod.jpg  

    Rear disk brake adapter-torque_rod_longer_bolt_to_caliper_adapter.jpg  

    Rear disk brake adapter-torque_rod_with_caliper.jpg  

    Rear disk brake adapter-complete.jpg  


  30. #30
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    Thought I would post this mod to my early 90's Zaskar. I've put several hundred miles on it so far, and no complaints, but I guess I'm really more of a front brake guy anyway...

  31. #31
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    Pics:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rear disk brake adapter-zaskar-brake-mod-1.jpg  

    Rear disk brake adapter-zaskar-brake-mod-2.jpg  

    Rear disk brake adapter-zaskar-brake-mod-3.jpg  


  32. #32
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    I would like to upgrade Kona frame (2004) with rear disc.
    Which adapter type to use? A2Z adapter?
    Is there any other, better choice?





  33. #33
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 10:39 PM.

  34. #34
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    [QUOTE=slackard]just finished a bolt-on adapter for my old fisher.


    That is the coolest adapter by far. I am trying to mount brakes on a brand new 24" scott that unfortunately does not have flat drop outs. Hence am looking at adapting something specific to this bike. Can I ask what grade metal you used for strength? Also did you machine this or did you do the specs and send it off to a friendly engineer? Cheers

  35. #35
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:40 PM.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackard
    My uncle is a retired machinist with a bridge-port in his basement. I took measurements of my dropout (which was cut from flat stock, not one of these fancy cast dropouts you see on modern bikes), drew up the adapter in CAD and went over to my uncle's place to cut it out.



    That is so incredibly cool. Might be a bit far to send a subway sandwich but how would you and you uncle feel about bottles of New Zealand wine?
    p.s. I am only half joking because it would be amazing to get this made. Thanks

  37. #37
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 10:39 PM.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackard
    hah! not too into contracting at the moment.. and not for peanuts either! maybe when im well funded and setup with my own tools.

    The real problem is i dont have your bike to measure the dropout. mine was a simple flat dropout, easy to measure and to mill. it sounds like yours is more complicated. not that it cant be done, but I couldnt say without seeing it and making accurate measurements first.

    something to keep in mind.. drilling holes in your dropout willy-nilly isnt a good idea and you will probably void your warranty. You also risk severely weakening the dropout if drilling too large or in the wrong place.

    Good luck
    Where did you get the dimensions for the disc mounting holes? Hayes used to have them on their site, but they are no longer available.

    And how on earth did your uncle get a 3,000 pound Bridgeport milling machine into his basement?
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  39. #39
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:42 PM.

  40. #40
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    Smile Disc adapters

    Just picked up a Ventana Marble Peak FS. I'm mark'n this thread so as to get here again..

    Think there are /is some great info..

  41. #41
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 10:37 PM.

  42. #42
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    Disc brake Adaptor

    Hi,

    I know there are several disco brake conversion adaptor out there. I am wondering if anyone know what works (have tried it) with an old 98 Cannondale F500 on the rare. Brake therapy? Woodman Disco?

    Also what adaptor would I need (if any) if I get an Avid BB7?

    George

  43. #43
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    Walt will weld on a disc tab and a CS to SS bridge for $75 (plus shipping your frame back and forth). Worth it, IMO.

  44. #44
    The need for singlespeed
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    I'd just suck it up and run a V out back.

  45. #45
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    Nice thread.

    This give me idea to make custom adapter.

  46. #46
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:42 PM.

  47. #47
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    Any Sugestions here?

    Any ideas how to mount disc brakes to a 2004 Trek 9.9 Elite hard tail? I was told it is an old DIsc-0 mount and I need a bracket Trek # 87855 or 210648 but I cannot find either of those anywhere. It is an older 04 Trek 9.9 oclv race frame that I am thinking about building up into my main cyclecross race bike but I have disk brakes for it and want to use them. Any thoughts?

    Thanks for the help.
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  48. #48
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    The 210648 is available at your nearest Trek dealer, I had mine check those numbers for you and the 87855 is replaced by the 210648. He said all warehouses have stock of these parts and he even emailed me back with a picture of it. Here you go:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rear disk brake adapter-fisher_08fi210648.jpg  


  49. #49
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    Thanks, this is what I was afraid of. There is nowhere for that bracket to bolt onto my frame. I am not sure what else to do though. I was told the two holes on the bottom stay were for a disc brake mount . Any ideas on what to use?

    Ryan
    Last edited by nimoryan; 11-21-2011 at 09:07 PM.

  50. #50
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    That mount is for an old style 22mm Hayes caliper that direct-mounted to those frames. A2Z makes an adapter, but it is widely reported that it contacts the seatstay.

    this is supposedly your answer:
    Torontocycles Disc Brake Adapters, Caliper Adapters, b&s adapters

    From this old thread here:
    trek 9.8 elite - disc capable? need help

  51. #51
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:44 PM.

  52. #52
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    that's beautiful.

  53. #53
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    How much did it cost you to 3D print the file in stainless steel?
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  54. #54
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:44 PM.

  55. #55
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    Does any one have the old HAYES chainstay mount or the A2Z AD-PMR mount for sale????

    I would like to buy one of these:

    AD-PMR:



    Hayes chainstay 22mm mount:



    -J

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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:45 PM.

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    hi,
    Yes i currently have that one, but looking to make or buy the one that is like what i posted, becuase i like the idea of placing the caliper inbetween the seat stay and chain stay.

    here is a pic of my set up currently with the one you posted...clearance is TIGHT and the Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes just barely work it seems.

    I had to place a washer between the caliper and torontocycles mount in order for it to sit correctly. as the rear mount on the BB7 starts to curve and make contact... (ill try and get a better picture of this later).

    anywho...im just looking for that other style for mounting closer to the chainstay 22mm mount. i feel that is a better (stronger) location, not all far back like i have it now.

    pics:




    -J

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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:46 PM.

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    Well, I just finished installing it all, i wont comment on braking power till i get some saddle time, so ill be sure to come back and post.

    I meant more as that it "barely fits". I wanted to maintain a few millimeters from the rotor from the trontocylces adapter and so doing that and offsetting the AVID BB7 barely works....

    Tri-align Caliper Position System (CPS) - Avid:
    The other issue is the BB7 comes with their fancy dancy Tri-align caliper position washers (one concave, one convex)...those mount on the inside and outside of the caliper mount flange - however the torontocycles adapter is designed to mount a caliper straight willy nilly! SO, you cant use the BB7 positioning washers with this adapter.

    like i mentioned above - I had to use a a single normal washer due to the caliper body curvature contacting the toronto cycles adapter on the aft end...i put a washer on the fwd end as well (as you can see in my picture above in prior post or below attached) but im thinking im gonna remove the fwd one and gain a bit more caliper pad "bite" section onto the rotor. (160mm btw).

    Pictures of what im describing attached:

    -J
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rear disk brake adapter-p1010005_2_.jpg  

    Rear disk brake adapter-2000_trek_8500_lt.jpg  

    Rear disk brake adapter-imag1763.jpg  

    Rear disk brake adapter-tri-align-cps.jpg  


  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackard View Post
    I had considered drawing up a 3d printable version of the a2z adapter (which now seems out of mfg). My issue is no original to measure for accurate recreation.. also no frame that would accept the adapter once printed.

    If we could source an original a2z adapter to measure, I'd draw one up in CAD and make it available through Shapeways.com. However, without an original hayes/a2z adapter, or a frame, the project is dead in the water for me.
    as for the 3d fab - im all in! so, we can use my frame, ill do that leg work, problem is, we need to source an original a2z AD-PMR adapter or the hayes one shown above.

    I have considered mounting everything where i want it and then using molding clay and then making a few prefab's and then perfect it....

    i have a machine shops buddy and is a biker too, so hes down to help! (with green of course)...lol

    -J

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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:46 PM.

  62. #62
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    awesome...looks good.....

    i will be ordering..
    -J

  63. #63
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:47 PM.

  64. #64
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    For anyone considering retrofitting a rear disc on to their older frame, slackard helped me out with one of his custom 3Dprinted adapters. This thing is rock solid and beautifully designed. No fussy adjustments and perfect braking with no flex whatsoever. Thanks slackard!


    Rear disk brake adapter-2.jpg

    Rear disk brake adapter-3.jpg

    Rear disk brake adapter-4.jpg

  65. #65
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:48 PM.

  66. #66
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    hi, just wanna know how that disc brake bracket is holding up?(4years later) I'm thinking of using a similar bracket on a 2012 Fuji Nevada to attach Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc brakes.

  67. #67
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:48 PM.

  68. #68
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    Slackard's 3D Adapter for 1995 Cannondale Killer V 500

    Just did a final install of my 3D printed stainless steel rear disc brake adapter designed by Slackard (steps outlined above) and WOW this thing is nothing short of awesome. I had actually purchased the A2Z adapter a few months back and just couldn't get myself to start grinding my old frame down for something that likely wasn't going to be cut it according to what I've read elsewhere. Slackard's adapter looks great and is ROCK solid. Not one bit of wiggle and he did an amazing job on the design and custom fit.....absolutely zero tolerance. It's been on for a couple of weeks and I've put some serious stress on it and still perfect. If you're looking for a solution to put disc brakes on an older bike, this is the only way to go. Here it is....


    Rear disk brake adapter-killerv1.jpg

    Rear disk brake adapter-killerv2.jpg

  69. #69
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:48 PM.

  70. #70
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:49 PM.

  71. #71
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    just found this thread and wow ! what you're making is so cool !

    Do you think it would fit a scott endorphin ? do you need the caliper to know if it would fit ?


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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:49 PM.

  73. #73
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    Thanks for the quick answer.

    I realised yesterday I read your post wrong, when you talked about a caliper I thought you meant a brake caliper ...

    Well I'm not a native speaker, was lost in translation

    anyway, dropout is between 8.6 and 8.7mm (a bit less thick at the end of the bike)

    I'll take pictures ASAP !

    Thanks again

  74. #74
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:50 PM.

  76. #76
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    I think they are.

    this is a picture I found on the internet with a stripped down frame.

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...90216-2201.jpg

  77. #77
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:50 PM.

  78. #78
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    Idea! Dunlop 26 steel frame

    Hello everyone. I really love what you guys been creating and stuff. Cycle art I say. Is anyone familiar with getting an a2z universal mount to fit a generic steel frame with forward angled drop out? I'll take some pictures later to help you envision my plot.
    I even have eyelets for racks and mudguards
    The bike is a Dunlop 26 inch full suspension

  79. #79
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    steel frame progress

    I've gotten my a2z mount and some mechanical brakes. I'll definitely need a torque arm to mount the swivel point of the a2z. After some measurements the caliper will sit prefectly but I need to fill the mount up a bit as it's got some gaps. I scored the marks into the aluminium but I'm all out of ideas on how to actually fill them in. Any suggestions? I'll add the pictures I've taken so far


    Frame drop out


    Position of the a2z, notice marks from the skewer


    More mount images, the top bit is not anchored to anything yet


    Parts that need filling in so the frame can fit against

    Found a place to get my threaded bar and swivel arms
    Swivel Eye Rose Joint (Rod Ends) - Stainless Steel (WDS 852), Rod Ends & Fittings | WDS
    Actually I'm tempted to get this type of bar but I'm not sure how to rusty proof it Threaded Bar Grade 8.8 - High Tensile Steel (WDS 416), Threaded Bar | WDS

  80. #80
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    You better use tube as torque bar and joints with bolts. Weld nuts to tube ends, preferably stainless nuts. Use stainless nylock nuts in joint threads to lock in place.



    I've had threaded rod remote steering bar in my off-road recumbent for over 11,000 km's and it'll bend eventually. My rod is stainless which makes it softer but more tensile to break. Next rod is definitely as described above.



    If your caliper tab is fixed and you can mount torque bar to equally fixed part of your rear fork why use ball joints?


    Sent from Lumia phone using Tapatalk
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    -Mika

  81. #81
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    11000 the km. That's prefect. When I reach close to that mileage I could just get a new bar done. They not cheap at 20£ for two bar ends and the bar but I can reuse most of the bar.
    At your suggestion I looked at this instead for the bar ends
    Clevis Eye - Stainless Steel (WDS 851), Rod End Fittings | WDS

    Now to find some of those nuts you suggested. Thank you again. Kinda forgot what those nylons were, don't think they'll work on generic threaded bar due to thread lengh.
    Wonder if I could get an anodised blue colour for my fixtures
    Last edited by NightHunterTauren; 10-09-2014 at 04:00 PM.

  82. #82
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    Well I did it. Doesn't look pretty unless industrial is your thing. In the end I got a threaded bar from buildbase (m10 thread zinc covered) junior hacksaw. Pack of metal files from screwfix (very coarse). B and Q supplied me with some ridiculously strong brackets (to enlarge the holes to m10 I had to use 5 drill sizes (thankfully the clutch saved my hand as they kept jamming, suspecting the drill holder was knackered, borrowed tool so you know). Add about 200ml of wd40 for lubrication during drilling and cutting.
    B and Q also supplied zinc plated nuts and compression washers.
    Used the old v brake arms as nuts to hold my bracket up there, drilled the a2z top swivel arm hole to stick a bit of my threaded rod and a nut in there. After a few hours of work and trial and error the mechanical disc brake is on but... Brake cable too short. Must have cut it a few weeks ago when adjusting the cables.
    Well I'll fill my photobucket with the shots I've taken. Ps the torque arm is great for twisting my a2z so the caliper is aligned
    Thank you all and I should have gotten some nyloks... Well the nuts should hold. Counter locked hehe. Will update photos and keep anyone interested up to date with any issues. Oh yeah, definitely going to use a full face helmet for a while, you know guinea pig and all

  83. #83
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    Bracket cutting, using the v brake mount as clamp to hold it


    Bracket after cutting


    End result with brake cable sleeve in place


    V brake mount point and creative cable ties


    Turning the wheel to show freedom of movement

    Minor point to add. The disc brake side is rather immobile due to the a2z and taking wheel out is tricky business as you try to avoid bending your disc. But it can be done. The derailer hanger can be a nuisance as it limits your ability to center the wheel but the wheel and disc are travelling freely in my case.
    The whole build requires a fair amount of knowledge of tools and safety precautions. If you're not sure of anything do not attempt it. If anything I'll help you make it but safety first, don't injure yourself.
    In the end you can pay to have the tabs welded but it can save money if you can do it yourself. Ps I'd suggest buying the eyelets in my previous post but be aware that they are mild steel which will reduce their life, always check nuts and fittings before you ride. Any sign of mechanical fatigue, replace worn parts before your trip.

    Good day everyone, get in touch if you need any more info
    Last edited by NightHunterTauren; 10-11-2014 at 03:58 AM.

  84. #84
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:51 PM.

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    Hi Slackard, great looking products!

    Do you think it would work for a 1996 Rocky Mountain Hammer Race (steel frame):

    Rear disk brake adapter-img_8898-medium-.jpgRear disk brake adapter-img_8899-medium-.jpgRear disk brake adapter-img_8900-medium-.jpg

    There's a slight job in the dropout towards the seatstay, and perhaps the rack mount could be used?

    If you think it's doable I'll take some pics per your instructions and send them along

    cheers,
    dave

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    brazed-on dropouts

    Here are a couple I brazed onto a mid-90s Miyata Elevation frame.

    Rear disk brake adapter-front-dropout.jpgRear disk brake adapter-rear-dropout.jpg

    If I were to do it again, I'd make them a little lighter and invert the bottle opener (prone to spillage).

  87. #87
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    Was searching for different types of adapters or ideas. Found this. Gonna go with this. Looks simple but a disc brake adapter is simple. Just need 2 holes that will hold on to the frame. And its pretty cheap. What you guys think?




  88. #88
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    guess what came with the mail today :




  89. #89
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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 10:06 PM.

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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 10:05 PM.

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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:51 PM.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by ernsz View Post
    Was searching for different types of adapters or ideas. Found this. Gonna go with this. Looks simple but a disc brake adapter is simple. Just need 2 holes that will hold on to the frame. And its pretty cheap. What you guys think?




    Sorry... I meant to reply to this post a few days ago. I actually own one of these.

    There was a guy selling this same adapter on e-bay a few months ago and I ended up winning the auction. I think I might have paid $15 shipped to my door. I figured if it worked then I got a GREAT deal and if it didn't.... well at least I didn't pay the full purchase price.

    The good:

    When the adapter arrived I was surprised to find that it was way better constructed than I thought it would be. The piece felt solid and I was unable to bend it with my bare hands.

    The Bad:

    I could figure out how to mount the thing!! The image shows the hub/axle mount/bracket tucked inside the dropout which for my application just flat out would not work. Running the hub/axle mount/bracket on the outside of the dropout placed the brake mounts too far away from the rotor. There was also an issue with the caliper physically sitting too low on the rotor which prevented the wheel from turning.

    I spent maybe 45 minutes trying to adjust the adapter mount points on the frame but I eventually gave up trying to make it work. I'm not sure if it was my frame, the mount or my piss poor mechanical skills at fault here. I'm not endorsing or criticizing the part at all. I just wanted to share my personal experience.
    ‎"My bicycle masters boardwalk and quagmire with aplomb." - Tom Nuttall

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackard View Post
    Ive not seen this adapter in particular before, but looks like its similar to the A2Z offering which requires hub modifications and not all hubs can be adapted. Just an FYI for any new readers.

    Good luck
    I guess its new. I gave up long ago on trying to find a good adapter. After the A2Z came out, I thought that was it. I didnt see any new adapters being made of any design. I was recently looking into buying a new bike but now I'll be giving this a try.

    I just saw the adapters youre making. Real nice.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ratman View Post
    Sorry... I meant to reply to this post a few days ago. I actually own one of these.

    There was a guy selling this same adapter on e-bay a few months ago and I ended up winning the auction. I think I might have paid $15 shipped to my door. I figured if it worked then I got a GREAT deal and if it didn't.... well at least I didn't pay the full purchase price.

    The good:

    When the adapter arrived I was surprised to find that it was way better constructed than I thought it would be. The piece felt solid and I was unable to bend it with my bare hands.

    The Bad:

    I could figure out how to mount the thing!! The image shows the hub/axle mount/bracket tucked inside the dropout which for my application just flat out would not work. Running the hub/axle mount/bracket on the outside of the dropout placed the brake mounts too far away from the rotor. There was also an issue with the caliper physically sitting too low on the rotor which prevented the wheel from turning.

    I spent maybe 45 minutes trying to adjust the adapter mount points on the frame but I eventually gave up trying to make it work. I'm not sure if it was my frame, the mount or my piss poor mechanical skills at fault here. I'm not endorsing or criticizing the part at all. I just wanted to share my personal experience.
    Hey thanx a lot for the info. I figured with a thing like this, it will most likely need some type of modification but good to know that its well constructed. Description saids its made of steel. Its still on ebay $17 + $4 shipping. Im going to pull the trigger.

    Do you think maybe they sent you the wrong size? They come in different sizes for different size rotors and the part that clamps on to your frame also comes in different sizes. Im going to go with the regular clamp for 160mm rotor and see how that works.

  94. #94
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    Re: Rear disk brake adapter

    Quote Originally Posted by slackard View Post
    Dave,

    This frame is a good candidate for a 3d printed disc retrofit. Shoot some orthographic photos of the dropout using the guide i posted earlier in this thread. and send me a PM. I'd be happy to help you out with this.
    You've got mail...

  95. #95
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    What about me? Raleigh MTi 1000 titanium hardtail.



    Drop out is 5.25mm.

    Thanks.

    tk

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    Last edited by slackard; 03-13-2017 at 09:52 PM.

  97. #97
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    I can see the image fine. Maybe a setting on your computer?

    I can save it and attach it to this post. Here it is:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rear disk brake adapter-dsc_2795_zps89a5c7fa.jpg  


  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdn-dave View Post
    You've got mail...
    Hey Slackard,

    Just wondering if you're still making these adapters. Never got a response to the pics I sent to shapeways.com

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by ernsz View Post
    Was searching for different types of adapters or ideas. Found this. Gonna go with this. Looks simple but a disc brake adapter is simple. Just need 2 holes that will hold on to the frame. And its pretty cheap. What you guys think?



    Anybody got any success stories with this adapter? Tips, tricks or modifications that make it more effective would be nice. I've got an older Scott steel frame that's a hardtail that I want to try it on.
    RAIL OR F*!%#!*^G BAIL

  100. #100
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    Slackard,

    Can you design an adapter for a 1994 Cannondale Killer V 900 with the cantilever design chain stay drop out area? All Aluminum frame.

    Rear disk brake adapter-img_4661.jpgRear disk brake adapter-img_4663.jpg

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