Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
    -arschloch-
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    869

    quill-type stem questions

    i am in the process of collecting parts for my next single speed.

    i have pretty much everything i need and am now going through the details. i would like to run riser bars, but am pretty sure that they arent gonna fit through my old school control-tech stem. the stem is a one piece unit unlike most modern stems on which half of the handlebar clamp is removable. thus, i dont think the bends in the riser bar are gonna make it through the opening in the stem.

    so, my questions are:

    1. will riser bars fit in a control tech stem?

    2. am i taking my life in my hands running a ten year old aluminum stem of questionable origin?

    3. if you answered 'yes' to question 2 or 'no' to question 1, who makes a cheap and strong (not worried about light really) steel quill-type stem that will take punishment?

    PS anyone else ever done a paramount series90 SS? did you find a good ratio that fits without a chain-tensioner? a 36-18 looks like it should fit....too tall? ~51" upon searching i saw that a bunch of people run 2:1 gears. is that not a bit tall?
    Last edited by chuffer; 04-27-2004 at 01:45 AM. Reason: b/c
    To air is human, to dig is divine.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by chuffer
    1. will riser bars fit in a control tech stem?
    2. am i taking my life in my hands running a ten year old aluminum stem of questionable origin?
    3. if you answered 'yes' to question 2 or 'no' to question 1, who makes a cheap and strong (not worried about light really) steel quill-type stem that will take punishment?
    1. I haven't tried but risers probably won't fit in a Control Tech stem. You really need a stem with a removable face-plate, but they never existed (as far as I remember) in the quill stem era.
    2. Control Tech stems are/were very good stems so unless it shows obvious signs of abuse then there's no reason why it won't outlive all of us. Just go easy when tightening the bar clamp bolts because the threads aren't the greatest.
    3. Syncros quill stems were always one of the lightest on the market and extremely robust but will definitely not fit risers as the bar clamp is very wide.

    If you forget the riser bars and go with flat bars then you won't have a problem... I've never liked riser bars so I don't really have much sympathy for those who wish to use them

  3. #3
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
    Reputation: DeeEight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    10,571
    riser bars most definitely DID exist in the quill stem era.

    If I can get a scott AT-3 bar into a CT stem, then you can get a riser bar in there much faster.

  4. #4
    -arschloch-
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    869
    ahh, i forgot about those AT-series bars. surprising how much abuse they took. BUT did you really get one in a CT stem? (not calling you a liar-just surprised.) i didnt have any luck with with getting drop bars into a CT...i guess the radii are pretty different.

    thanks. i'll try it.

    manitou19: yeah i dig risers. personal preference and i am willing to deal with hassel...


    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight
    riser bars most definitely DID exist in the quill stem era.

    If I can get a scott AT-3 bar into a CT stem, then you can get a riser bar in there much faster.
    To air is human, to dig is divine.

  5. #5
    75% Mountain cycle
    Reputation: SanAnMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    319

    Riser Bar - control tech stem - no problem

    I had 2 different risers on this bike on this bike, notice the old school control tech stem. I had a 2" rise white brother's ti bar in this stem and a Azonic 1.5" rise double wall. I opted for the flat bar after all that. There is a Salsa flat bar from Cambriabike.com that is 26" wide and comes in 5 deg or 11 deg sweep, that's my next purchase for this baby.

    Anyway, try the riser bar. If you have to, remove the bolt and jam a wooden wedge in the clamp to spread it out a little.

    I don't worry about the older control tech stems. They made them extra beefy back then.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    -arschloch-
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    869
    SanAnMan,

    Thanks for the info. nice ride. simple colors. sweet lines.
    To air is human, to dig is divine.

  7. #7
    all hail der Fuhrer Bush
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,635

    Ringle

    Ringle quill stems had removable 2-bolt face plates.

  8. #8
    Ebo
    Ebo is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,730
    Quote Originally Posted by SanAnMan
    I had 2 different risers on this bike on this bike, notice the old school control tech stem. I had a 2" rise white brother's ti bar in this stem and a Azonic 1.5" rise double wall. I opted for the flat bar after all that. There is a Salsa flat bar from Cambriabike.com that is 26" wide and comes in 5 deg or 11 deg sweep, that's my next purchase for this baby.

    Anyway, try the riser bar. If you have to, remove the bolt and jam a wooden wedge in the clamp to spread it out a little.

    I don't worry about the older control tech stems. They made them extra beefy back then.
    That 26" flat bar is the Salsa Pro Moto. I (and others) use it on my SS and love it. Mine is the 5 degree sweep. Really good quality 7075 aluminum.

  9. #9
    paintbucket
    Reputation: wooglin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,825
    I'm assuming this is a 1" head tube. Performance makes a threaded/threadless adaptor that will let you run a 1 1/8" threadless stem on a 1" threaded fork. No muss, no fuss.
    When the going gets weird its bedtime.

  10. #10
    I like to ride bikes!
    Reputation: scoutdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    219

    People put road bars on those stems all the time....

    Helpful tip: Take the pinch bolt out. Insert a coin in the slot between the clamp area. Thread the bolt in from the back side. Tighten it against the coin. It will force the clamp open and it will stay that way during your install.

  11. #11
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    47,824
    Quote Originally Posted by manitou916
    1. I haven't tried but risers probably won't fit in a Control Tech stem. You really need a stem with a removable face-plate, but they never existed (as far as I remember) in the quill stem era.)...
    Riser bars have been around as long as mt bikes. Unless the bar has a welded on crossbar they can be used in the "old style" stems. I had a trail-trials bike with a 150 mm stem and a 4" riser. Easier to install than a dropbar.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  12. #12
    Penis Goat!
    Reputation: GirchyGirchy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    802
    At the risk of spamming, I'll show you the stem I have up on ebay...it's a 1" threaded Ritchey stem, all steel. I purchased it new and never used it. Here's a link:

    Ritchey 1" threaded stem

    Sorry if I offend anyone with this posting, but I'm just trying to help.

    Brian

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CCSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    196

    What a great tip!

    Wish I'd seen it before attempting to squeeze my easton carbon monkeylite riser through an old litespeed quill stem. It's in, but the "pry it open with the jumbo craftsman screwdriver" solution was nowhere as graceful... Not to mention that the clearcoat on the monkeylite isn't quite as beautiful as it once was.

    Quote Originally Posted by scoutdog
    Helpful tip: Take the pinch bolt out. Insert a coin in the slot between the clamp area. Thread the bolt in from the back side. Tighten it against the coin. It will force the clamp open and it will stay that way during your install.

  14. #14
    -arschloch-
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    869
    i'd be careful how much you opened up a CT or any other aluminum stem for that matter using the coin technique. not saying it cant be done, just dont overso it....
    steel stem: no problemo.


    Quote Originally Posted by scoutdog
    Helpful tip: Take the pinch bolt out. Insert a coin in the slot between the clamp area. Thread the bolt in from the back side. Tighten it against the coin. It will force the clamp open and it will stay that way during your install.
    To air is human, to dig is divine.

  15. #15
    IMBA Guy
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    173

    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by wooglin
    I'm assuming this is a 1" head tube. Performance makes a threaded/threadless adaptor that will let you run a 1 1/8" threadless stem on a 1" threaded fork. No muss, no fuss.
    I'm with Woogi on this one. Ditch the quill stem and pick up an adapter that will allow you to run whatever aheadset stem that you want or have laying around. I've done this on several bikes and it's proven to be a stiffer interface than any suitable quill stem I could find.
    Powered by Krispy Kreme!

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    184
    If a drop bar will fit in a stem without a removable faceplate, why would a riser straight bar not? Big-ass-flathead-screwdriver, Nitto stem pry (cool tool, if you're a tool geek), or the brilliant pinch-bolt-and-a-coin idea posted earlier... your options are endless.

    As far as durability is concerned, my '77 Schwinn fixie is using it's original (.833") stem. I ride it off-road without qualms. There are some stems with well-deserved reputations for failure, the early 70's AVA "death stem" and some of the early 90's CNC stuff come to mind, but if it's forged, it should last pretty much forever. I don't recall ControlTech parts having a bad failure record, but I could be wrong.

    --Shannon

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight
    riser bars most definitely DID exist in the quill stem era.

    If I can get a scott AT-3 bar into a CT stem, then you can get a riser bar in there much faster.
    Yep, of course they did... my old Kona Hahanna town bike came with 1 1/8" quill stem and riser bars - the riser bars were removed within an hour of getting the bike home.

    AT-3's have a gentle curve not riser bar S-bend to pass through the stem... this makes a difference. The fact is that not all riser bars will fit all non-face-plate stems. I ran an AT-3 in an Offroad Flexstem for a while...

Similar Threads

  1. Rim cutting the valve stem
    By MrXC in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 04-27-2004, 06:18 AM
  2. stem questions
    By Geist262 in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-22-2004, 04:39 PM
  3. stem size questions
    By nico in forum Beginner's Corner
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-15-2004, 08:35 PM
  4. Worth it?
    By crank in forum Tooltime
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 03-29-2004, 09:14 PM
  5. Front derailleur questions: Swing type and model suggestions please...
    By DCepp in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-10-2004, 07:16 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •