Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 27
  1. #1
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421

    question for those with aluminum sliding dropouts

    well my bianchi has seen better days so i'm about to pull the trigger on a new frame. It'll either be an Ibis Tranny or a custom built Siren.
    Both will be the same price for me, so that has no bearing on what i do. Also, i do not want this to be a discussion on carbon vs aluminum or steel vs ti or KY vs Astroglide.
    Both bikes will also be a 26er as well, case closed.

    Basically, assuming i go with the Siren, what i want to know is how do people like their aluminum sliding dropouts? Has anyone killed them? If so, what happened?
    I am VERY hard on my stuff, and i am afraid that if i tighten them enough to not move, they'll eventually get mangled. I have a problem with my wheel moving backwards on decents, so i have to tighten the crap out of stuff. To give you an example, i've had to tighten my rear skewer so much to keep the wheel from moving backwards that my axle has managed to wear itself a considerable way through the inside of the dropouts on my Bianchi over the years. They're nearly hitting my hub now.

  2. #2
    Really I am that slow
    Reputation: SlowerThenSnot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    3,756
    pm'ed yah
    Read my BLOG!

    Nipple twister and bike builder at Borealis

    http://www.borealisbikes.com/

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bryan_d's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    387
    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerThenSnot
    pm'ed yah
    Why not post the solution on the thread so that others who have the same problem can find a soluton? Do we really want to see more threads of the same past privately answered questions?

    Bryan d
    Just keep pedaling, don't stop pedaling.

  4. #4
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by bryan_d
    Why not post the solution on the thread so that others who have the same problem can find a soluton? Do we really want to see more threads of the same past privately answered questions?

    Bryan d
    he didnt have a solution, he was offering me a deal on one of the frames i was looking at. I assume he just didnt want to spam up the thread, but knows i barely check my pms.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bryan_d's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    387
    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    he didnt have a solution, he was offering me a deal on one of the frames i was looking at. I assume he just didnt want to spam up the thread, but knows i barely check my pms.
    Well one can argue that no solution (AKA buy something else) is a solution no?

    Thanks for clearing that up,

    Bryan d

    PS - frame with sliding drop-outs are on the way
    Just keep pedaling, don't stop pedaling.

  6. #6
    Ovaries on the Outside
    Reputation: umarth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    4,361
    You know you want a steel 29er.

    Vote for Siren and 650b. You gotta know the geometry you prefer by now....

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    376
    Sounds like you're running a rear QR skewer with horizontal sliding drop outs???
    Change to a bolt on rear axle and/or get some tug nuts. I've been through two aluminum Bianchi SS frames, with bolt on rear axles with or without tug nuts, never had a problem.

  8. #8
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by rglsr
    Sounds like you're running a rear QR skewer with horizontal sliding drop outs???
    Change to a bolt on rear axle and/or get some tug nuts. I've been through two aluminum Bianchi SS frames, with bolt on rear axles with or without tug nuts, never had a problem.
    i have tug nuts. the problem is that i have to overtighten them so the wheel doesnt move backwards. no nut tuggers will fix that.

  9. #9
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by umarth
    You know you want a steel 29er.

    Vote for Siren and 650b. You gotta know the geometry you prefer by now....
    lol

    well, both frames will fit a 650b i believe (definitely at least the Siren as it will be custom). I dont want to go with a 650b just yet because of the tire selection and the fact that i'd need new wheels. But seeing how much fun my cx bike is on the trails, i bet i'll like the 650b's.

  10. #10
    fresh fish in stock...... SuperModerator
    Reputation: CHUM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    8,228
    why sliding drops?....why not black cats, EBB, Eccentric hub, paragon, etc.. if you're goin' custom?
    Visit these 2 places to help advance trail access:
    http://www.sharingthepct.org/
    http://www.facebook.com/SharingThePct

  11. #11
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by CHUM
    why sliding drops?....why not black cats, EBB, Eccentric hub, paragon, etc.. if you're goin' custom?
    paragons are sliding drops and they dont do aluminum, i dont like ebb's or eccentric hubs, and the black cats are also steel only i believe.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    376
    QR skewer + horizontal drop outs (with or w/o tug nuts) = Slip-o-rama
    Bolt on rear axle always worked for me.

  13. #13
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by rglsr
    QR skewer + horizontal drop outs (with or w/o tug nuts) = Slip-o-rama
    Bolt on rear axle always worked for me.
    no bolt ons for me. tried them before, didnt help, and i hate carrying around (and having to use) a wrench, especially in a race. Trust me, i run a pretty beefy QR, and it is TIGHT.
    Again, the wheel does not move when it is tight. The problem is the overtightening has embedded the axle into the dropouts so far that it is getting close to hitting the hub.

    Regardless, i am not going with track ends again, so it is a moot point.

  14. #14
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    well, looks like i'm going with the siren. Should be awesome!

  15. #15
    Really I am that slow
    Reputation: SlowerThenSnot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    3,756
    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    well, looks like i'm going with the siren. Should be awesome!
    B- Does great work, love my john henry! if i ever go squishy hes high on my list as well
    Read my BLOG!

    Nipple twister and bike builder at Borealis

    http://www.borealisbikes.com/

  16. #16
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerThenSnot
    B- Does great work, love my john henry! if i ever go squishy hes high on my list as well
    Yea, Brendan definitely makes some nice frames. Cant wait to get it, this will be my first decent frame.

  17. #17
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kcaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    180
    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    Wow, talk about a fast lead time. You must be psyched.

  19. #19
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by kcaz
    Wow, talk about a fast lead time. You must be psyched.
    Yep!
    As for the lead time, this frame has been in the works for over a year.... it was just a matter of me deciding what i wanted on it, and how i was going to "pay" for it (we traded labor for labor). So i was the holdup.

    I should have it next week!

  20. #20
    Really I am that slow
    Reputation: SlowerThenSnot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    3,756
    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    Yep!
    As for the lead time, this frame has been in the works for over a year.... it was just a matter of me deciding what i wanted on it, and how i was going to "pay" for it (we traded labor for labor). So i was the holdup.

    I should have it next week!
    Nice!!
    Read my BLOG!

    Nipple twister and bike builder at Borealis

    http://www.borealisbikes.com/

  21. #21
    Ovaries on the Outside
    Reputation: umarth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    4,361
    How are you going to set it up? What color?

  22. #22
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by umarth
    How are you going to set it up? What color?
    r7 100mm in the front
    dt swiss xr1540 wheelset
    thomson post and eventually a wtb rocket v stealth saddle
    small block 8's front and rear
    tubes
    xtrm960 crankset
    HBC gears
    Salsa grips with the little chilli peppers
    custom headset and cog spacers
    avid bb7 brakes and SD7 levers
    crappy bars and stem for now
    Basically everything that is on my current bike.
    Should come in around 21-21.5lbs, and sub 20 when i get around to buying decent stuff (never).

    The color will be a darker metalic pink. Most of the parts will be anodized purple. Should be really ugly!

  23. #23
    Ovaries on the Outside
    Reputation: umarth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    4,361
    I am very proud to have you on the SS forums, if it turns out half as garish as I have imagined.

    I'd like to see pictures of the custom headset. Too bad it is not a steel bike. It'd be a little more real.

  24. #24
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by umarth
    I am very proud to have you on the SS forums, if it turns out half as garish as I have imagined.

    I'd like to see pictures of the custom headset. Too bad it is not a steel bike. It'd be a little more real.
    oh it will be fugly for sure.
    I'm not making a custom headset, i'm just making a custom headset spacer. i guess i wasnt clear there (what else is new).

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: PoisonDartFrog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    656
    Ok, let's get one thing straight. With sliding rear DOs, a chain tug (aka Surly Tuggnut, etc) only makes sense on the chain-driven side. The pedaling stress on the right hand side tends to pull the wheel forward, so to maintain chain tension some sort of tug device is needed to prevent the wheel from sliding forward.

    However, a chain tug on the non drive side, or left side, is pointless. No there are there no pedaling stresses pulling the wheel forward. In fact, disc brakes do just the opposite. They tend to lever the wheel backwards out of the frame.

    That said, I have tried a number of different QR skewers on my SS with horizontal DOs. RAVX tend to work the best for me. They seem to be about 3/8" longer than most other skewers, allowing plenty of engagement, especially with thicker SS DOs and a tug device. I can get them plenty tight.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •