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  1. #1
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    Phil Wood Philcentric EBB for standard shells

    Does anyone have more information, pictures, or pricing on the new Phil Wood Philcentric? It's an EBB for standard shells like the FC EBB or Tr!ckstuff Exzentriker. However, it's indexed at 15*, which seems like a viable solution to keep it from slipping. It might lead to creaking, though, and I'm still not sure how they ensure the indexing of the two cups are synched. I could see them not worrying about that, since the most the two sides would be off is 7.5*.

    http://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/eccentric.php

  2. #2
    master blaster
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    interesting....

  3. #3
    nothing to see here
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    nice new website
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  4. #4
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    There is a special alignment tool which must be purchased. I have one on the way. I'll post photos when I get it.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by miwuksurfer
    There is a special alignment tool which must be purchased. I have one on the way. I'll post photos when I get it.
    post a full review please
    ~JPB

    "Loud Hubs Save Lives"

  6. #6
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    Found a pic here: http://www.handlebarsandwich.com/09/...interbike-2010

    It's a long document - search for Philcentric and look at the next picture.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryker
    Found a pic here: http://www.handlebarsandwich.com/09/...interbike-2010

    It's a long document - search for Philcentric and look at the next picture.
    Great find. The pictures from the article are below. They show pretty clearly how the system works. My guess is the holes in the cups are threaded, and the two screws thread into the holes, keeping the eccentric tight.

    I guess you synch one side to the other by cranking it even tighter to rotate it?

    Also, I talked with Phil, and they said the weight should be around 250g.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Phil Wood Philcentric EBB for standard shells-phil1.jpg  

    Phil Wood Philcentric EBB for standard shells-phil2.jpg  


  8. #8
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    Edit: scratch that, looks like keyed dents in the outer surface of the frame-threaded disc.
    so undo the little 4 mm bolts, pull the outer disc outwards, re-position, bolt it back down.
    would certainly keep things for rotating on their own!
    but it means you're removing the non-drive side crankarm/bb cup to adjust the bb offset, n'est-ce-pas?

    edit numero dos: *blink blink* just remembered, the wife's raceface cranks have the bb axle fixed to the non drive side crankarm, not the driveside as with shimano... so pull that out, means the whole crank on the floor, re-adjust tension, etc...
    Last edited by byknuts; 10-26-2010 at 08:45 AM.
    If steel is real then aluminium is supercallafragiliniun!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by byknuts
    Edit: scratch that, looks like keyed dents in the outer surface of the frame-threaded disc.
    so undo the little 4 mm bolts, pull the outer disc outwards, re-position, bolt it back down.
    would certainly keep things for rotating on their own!
    but it means you're removing the non-drive side crankarm/bb cup to adjust the bb offset, n'est-ce-pas?
    I think you just have to remove the 2 screws and it should be able to turn without pulling outwards, so no crank removal.

    Looks like an interesting design, but I am still unsure how you keep the 2 sides in sync. Seems like they just thread into the frame, and the screw holes end up wherever they end up. We must be missing something.

    Mark

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny
    I think you just have to remove the 2 screws and it should be able to turn without pulling outwards, so no crank removal.

    Looks like an interesting design, but I am still unsure how you keep the 2 sides in sync. Seems like they just thread into the frame, and the screw holes end up wherever they end up. We must be missing something.
    With the indexing around the cup, I can't see the screws being what keep it from rotating. I'm pretty sure byknuts is correct that the eccentrics need to be pulled out to rotate them.

    Well, the most either cup would have to rotate to synch to the other one is 7.5*, so I could see it being a matter of just tightening the cup just a little more to rotate it.

  11. #11
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    I might be wrong about the whole non-drive side crankarm needing to be removed, but unless your spindle's fairly long you might not have enough room to get the outer disc past the indexing on the inner disc without removing it.
    Either better pics or descriptions or both shall go with him!!

    Edit: both cups need to be removed to re-set to a new location, look at the driveside cup there... standard crankarm to bb cup clearances, like 3mm. no way that's how short the "indexing" points are on the eccentric part.

    I'm going to assume that the installation tool aligns the two "frame" cups in the first place? ne'er to stray?
    If steel is real then aluminium is supercallafragiliniun!

  12. #12
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    ASK (and give me a boring lunch hour to faff about on the interwebs with) and ye shall receive...

    http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/10/28/...ames-and-more/
    If steel is real then aluminium is supercallafragiliniun!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by miwuksurfer
    There is a special alignment tool which must be purchased. I have one on the way. I'll post photos when I get it.
    Would you mind telling us how much you paid for the EBB and the tool?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny
    ...I am still unsure how you keep the 2 sides in sync. Seems like they just thread into the frame, and the screw holes end up wherever they end up.
    Interesting.

  15. #15
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    you can almost always get a few degrees of an extra turn, which would allow you to align the bolt holes. However, the torque on each cup would likely be unequal, although i doubt it would matter much. Looks like a major PITA to set up and adjust when your chain gets slack or you change gears. The FC one looks much more simple.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by forwardcomponents
    Interesting.
    I'm glad you edited your post.

  17. #17
    All 26.5" all the time!
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    My first though on the cup alignment problem would be for Phil to supply some thin washers/shims that fit between one of the cups and the frame.

    An assortment of .002 to .008 stainless shims would probably do the trick.

  18. #18
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    Wonder if these would work with any Phil BB. Would be a nice upgrade to my Fatback, assuming it's easily adjustable enough. My current gearing is close to a magic gear, but not quite there, so a tensioner is currently needed.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    the cup alignment problem
    Problem? The only problem I see is that posters are guessing how it would work based on a few pictures and vague conversations.
    When you get older, much of your hate comes from knowledge and experience, which is why really old people hate everyone

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by wv_bob
    Problem? The only problem I see is that posters are guessing how it would work based on a few pictures and vague conversations.
    Actually, the link byknuts posted has a very clear explanation of how it works.

    Here it is again:
    http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/10/28/...ames-and-more/

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach
    Wonder if these would work with any Phil BB. Would be a nice upgrade to my Fatback, assuming it's easily adjustable enough. My current gearing is close to a magic gear, but not quite there, so a tensioner is currently needed.
    the EBB is it's own BB... according to the article posted it takes a shimano crank and spindle
    ~JPB

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpbova
    the EBB is it's own BB... according to the article posted it takes a shimano crank and spindle
    Right. I'm still awaiting a square taper compatible version... FC, Phil, whoever... which I don't actually expect will ever be produced.

    --sParty
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    Right. I'm still awaiting a square taper compatible version... FC, Phil, whoever... which I don't actually expect will ever be produced.

    --sParty
    me too! I don't think it will happen either that's why the Ti single speed I'm building will have a Eno hub.

    It doesn't seem cost effective for a company to make a square taper EBB with all the spindle lengths and what not. What do I know though I don't run a BB company.
    ~JPB

    "Loud Hubs Save Lives"

  24. #24
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    It seems to me a ST axle wouldn't be hard to make for an external bottom bracket, if you didn't mind the increase q factor.

  25. #25
    meatier showers
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    It seems to me a ST axle wouldn't be hard to make for an external bottom bracket, if you didn't mind the increase q factor.
    How much do you figure it would increase q compared to a standard 122mm sq taper spindle?

    I have to employ the long spindle in order to achieve ring/stay clearance anyway.

    Probably no need to answer, bad mech... it's certainly a moot point... will anyone really go to the effort to produce such a problem solver... I can't imagine. But it's fun to mentally go down that road a ways...

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    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
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