Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 35
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    115

    Opinion on rotors

    I have decided to try some BB7's on my bike and take off the hydros that are on it now. They are Tektros and I really have not had any problems with them, it's just that through the last pad changes I have not been able to get rid of the squalling when I get on them.

    I was going to get some Shimanos, but I have too many hobbies and needed to cut costs. I had BB5's on my first bike and got along with them great, the BB7's should work fine for my riding style and terrain.

    I started by buying some Avid speed dial 7's and Jagwire cables today and will probably get the brakes and rotors next week. What rotors do you all suggest? G2? G3? HS1? Any others or are they all going to work fine.

    Could I just use the rotors I have now or should I go with new? Will they still squeal? If there isn't any grooves or wear I imagine they would work OK, right? They are 160mm, can't remember which brand.

    Thanks much

  2. #2
    cowbell
    Reputation: Cotharyus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    2,263
    You could try the rotors you currently have. The thing is this - I've found a lot of brake noise is due to the rotor design. Take that for what it's worth, but before you go too far, maybe you should try just replacing your rotors. Stay away from Avid rotors - you can try the new centerline rotors, or I particularly like the Ashima Airotors. Just a thought.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: acer66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    654
    What Cotharys said.
    Last edited by acer66; 04-05-2015 at 10:59 AM. Reason: to stay on the safe side.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Avid is spelled wrong, there should be an 'O' in there.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CCSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    212
    I'm a huge fan of the cheapie Alligator Serration rotors. You can get them (I think from Pricepoint) for about 15 bucks each. In my experience on many bikes and with many different kinds of brakes (Marta SLs, Elixir CR, Elixir XO, XT, XTR) these things are one of the few examples of "better, cheaper and lighter."

  5. #5
    achiever
    Reputation: redwarrior's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    833
    I ran BB7's with Avid rotors for a few years & absolutely could not get them to be quiet. Period. Never again... I hope you have better luck than I did.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CCSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    212
    I should've mentioned that the original reason I tried the Alligator Serration rotors was to kill the turkey warble from my Avid brakes... They were the only thing that worked.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    115
    Doing some checking, it looks like I could get Shimano Deore M615's for 20 bucks less than the BB7's. Surely Jenson would swap my order if I called before they ship.

  8. #8
    openwound
    Reputation: voodoochild's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    580
    I think you'd really like the shimano hydro's. I'm running them on all of my bikes. If you're not in a great hurry I purchased my xt's off of ebay for the best price I could find. They ship from asia and it takes at least a week.

    As for rotors, yeah, the alligators are fine rotors and cheap, too. Avid's are fine, too (IMHO). The trick is to ensure that your caliper is as perfectly square to the line of travel as you can get it. I use a couple of feeler gauges, one on either side, as I'm installing the caliper. Really helps me to get 'em set with no noise.
    -- let's ride

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    115
    I could save a little and get the SLX, but am hoping to hear the 615's will work as well as the Dracos have or better.

    My BB5's were silent and the Tektros started out that way. On a pretty day in the woods I really dislike squalling.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Brian Grimes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    77
    I'm not an expert on disk brakes for bikes, but I have lots of professional experience with ones on cars. If they were quiet, and changing the pads made them loud, then the pads are the most likely culprit. First thought is a manufacturing tolorance that has the surface of the pad not flush with the rotor.

    Is there a way/room to put anti-squeal on the back of the pad assembly where it makes contact with the caliper and/or piston, and see if that fixes the problem?
    Living in the moment is always better on two wheels.

  11. #11
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
    Reputation: Zachariah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,195
    HSX is great for your intended setup. However, if you can pony-up the cash, the Avid Centerline rotor(Guide RSC) is the absolute BEST.
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  12. #12
    playing in the woods
    Reputation: BENKD29's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    573
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Grimes View Post
    Is there a way/room to put anti-squeal on the back of the pad assembly where it makes contact with the caliper and/or piston, and see if that fixes the problem?
    thats an interesting idea, i'm familiar with that application on cars. though i'm not sure that is the cause on bike brakes. could be, worth trying maybe.

    one technique for quieting noisy brakes that my LBS clued me into is using two different compounds on opposite sides of the caliper. so one metallic pad and one organic pad per caliper. works great.

    the way it was explained to me was that it disrupts the harmonic vibration of the rotor. that could be total BS, but sounded reasonable. either way solved my problem.
    Hardtail 29er
    Fat Lefty
    Rigid SS 29er

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: OFFcourse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    838
    Hold out and get the SLX, I've run Tektros and BB7's. They had about as much power as each other but I didn't have to touch the Tektros ever The BB7's were just a PITA could never get them running quite right. I've got shimano brakes on all my bikes now.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1,987
    I would advise not using other brand's rotors with Avid brakes. I used a TRP rotor with a BB7 caliper and the pads contacted the rotors further in towards the hub than the machined braking surface of the rotor. Also, I recently switched back to BB7s on my commuter bike that had Formula K18 hydraulic brakes (I have multiple bikes) and I hated it so much that I swapped the brakes back a week later. BB7s work well enough, but the modulation just isn't as nice as a good set of hydraulic brakes.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    115
    I called Jenson this morning and did a stop and swap on my order. After reading hundreds of great reviews I decided to go with the Shimano Deore M615's. They are going to be perfect for my SS and style & terrain of riding.

    Do you think my Tektro rotors will be OK? Could I use them for a few weeks and then get different rotors? Does that screw anything up? I was just going to sand them with some 1200 grit lightly and brakleen them. If not I will wait until I get the new rotors to switch out brakes.

    I'm a fair mechanic, is it much trouble to cut hoses on these for a good fit?

    Thanks everyone for the replys.

  16. #16
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
    Reputation: Zachariah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,195
    ^I'd just get the Shimano rotors, and call it good....^
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: OFFcourse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    838
    It's pretty straight forward to cut the cables and unless you **** it up you won't need to bleed them either they should include the wee bits needed for shortening the cables.

    Just take it slow and follow the instructions on the tech doc, assuming you can find the right one of course.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Andy R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    653
    Quote Originally Posted by Glynn Sluder View Post

    I'm a fair mechanic, is it much trouble to cut hoses on these for a good fit?

    .
    No, it's pretty easy - you should get another two inserts and olives with your new brake set. Once you've determined how much you want to shorten the hoses by (measure twice, cut once!) what I do with Shimano brakes is this -

    Set lever reach adjustment fully "out".

    Remove the wheel and pump the pistons out an extra stroke or two - until they're about 1mm apart.(with pads fitted)

    Set the master cyl. as horizontal as possible and top it off - replace the cap.
    Slide the rubber shroud down the hose and undo the hose retainer and slide that down the hose too.

    "Carefully" remove the hose from the master cylinder and, without shaking or knocking the hose around, cut it where you've previously marked it (with tape). Use either good cable cutters or a small block of wood and a Stanley knife blade - it sometimes helps to get someone else to hold the hose if you use the wood/knife blade method.

    At no point touch the brake lever!!

    Slide a new olive down the hose, clamp the hose in the yellow plastic blocks with vice grips and tap in the new insert.

    Refit the hose to the master cylinder, push the pistons back to allow the wheel to be fitted , pressurise to reset the pistons, check for leaks and test.

    You can re-use the inserts if you cut them out of the short ends of hose but, with Shimano, not the olives, as they're the crush type, not the split type.

  19. #19
    cowbell
    Reputation: Cotharyus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    2,263
    Quote Originally Posted by Glynn Sluder View Post

    Do you think my Tektro rotors will be OK? Could I use them for a few weeks and then get different rotors? Does that screw anything up? I was just going to sand them with some 1200 grit lightly and brakleen them. If not I will wait until I get the new rotors to switch out brakes.
    Don't use brakleen on your rotors. Just use rubbing alcohol. Don't get carried away sanding either. Just clean them and try them. They should work fine. Basically, rotors are rotors unless they're lighter or shed heat better or are bigger, or whatever. Don't sweat the rotors too much.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    388
    Get new rotors. The pads leave a deposit on the rotors. Mix rotorand pad combos and you will get noise. Shimano with ice tech rotors. Soup.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: croatiansensation's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    Don't use brakleen on your rotors. Just use rubbing alcohol. Don't get carried away sanding either. Just clean them and try them. They should work fine. Basically, rotors are rotors unless they're lighter or shed heat better or are bigger, or whatever. Don't sweat the rotors too much.
    This, as long as you properly prep and re-bed them with the new brakes you shouldn't have any noise issues. I have a set of Avid rotors that I have used with Avid Elixirs and my current set of Shimano SLX brakes, and they were noise free once I bedded them in correctly.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    115
    Once again I appreciate the time spent replying, this is a great set of forums.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Hairnet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    112
    Quote Originally Posted by CCSS View Post
    kill the turkey warble from my Avid brakes...
    It has a name!? hahahahhahaa
    Los Angelino looking to escape the clamor.

  24. #24
    KgB
    KgB is offline
    SNGLSPD
    Reputation: KgB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    991
    pads are generally the problem and not the rotors in my experience (with every brand), I would try a different pad compound or sand the pads you have. If they were working good previous to pad change I would stick with them, mechanicals are a step backwards and like all brakes require good setup to make them quiet.
    I've been inside too long.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    115
    So much for being a fair mechanic. I got all set up with every tool I would need but proceeded to commit a comedy of errors. Guess I was just a little uptight. Final straw was actually dropping one of the cylinders that push on the pad out. I had taken the pads out to keep them clean in case of an accident (ha) and the spacer I used fell out when I went to close the pads some.

    There is no pressure what so ever and nothing moves when I pump the lever. Is it just a huge amount of air in there or did I screw them up? The cylinder went right back in from where it came but there was fluid loss.

    I just put the front brake on, it needs cut about 6 inches but I'm not touching it yet. I really want to ride this weekend so I have to either find a shimano bleed kit local or take it to the LBS soon.

    What do you all think?

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Centerlock rotors vs 6-bolt rotors+CL adaptors?
    By discohospital in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-15-2015, 04:49 AM
  2. disc brakes opinion avid/shimano/rotors
    By leaderbiker in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 41
    Last Post: 01-04-2015, 03:44 PM
  3. Alligator rotors just as good as Avid rotors?
    By Lindahl in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-19-2013, 02:08 PM
  4. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-26-2013, 05:31 AM
  5. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-04-2011, 02:11 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Can't find it? Just search our site!