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  1. #51
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    that sounds like your hub or freehub bearings
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooter916
    that sounds like your hub or freehub bearings
    That was my first thought but the hub is brand new, the sound doesn't happen before I fully tension the belt and I've also put a normal single speed chain and cog on the hub and it's silent, so it's definitely the belt......

  3. #53
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    same hub and no noises like that here.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shrederland
    same hub and no noises like that here.
    Taking the belt off and rotating the hub is silent, so it's either the belt itself or something in the hub caused by the tension:

    <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ll773-amiG0&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ll773-amiG0&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

    Tonight I'm going to try less tension on the belt (although I can't see that as a solution as I'm running the recommended tension and any less may cause it to jump) and then I have 2 other wheelsets both with Hope Pro 2 hubs so will try them and see if I get the same.

    Last thing I can try is the rear skewer but I doubt that is the cause.

  5. #55
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    Problem solved

    At least I think so.

    Over the past few days, I've tried a number of things. I used a second wheelset with the same Hope Pro 2 hub on, got the same noise. tried running water over the belt to see if lubrication assisted - nothing.

    Went back to the original hub, used a different skewer - again no result. Then I increased the torque on the lock ring which helped a bit. Eventually I swapped the belt over to a spare I had and bingo - now only a tiny bit of creaking.

    The creak also now came from the front and not on every turn. Isolated that to a very slightly loose crank bolt. Now it's whisper quiet.

    So, tighten everything up and it should be fine. I think I'm going to source on of the Spot flanges and flip the rear to bring it in further on the freewheel and also swap to a steel freewheel from Hope for longevity.

    Anyway, looking forward to hitting the trails in stealth mode now......

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeezaGeeza
    At least I think so.

    Over the past few days, I've tried a number of things. I used a second wheelset with the same Hope Pro 2 hub on, got the same noise. tried running water over the belt to see if lubrication assisted - nothing.

    Went back to the original hub, used a different skewer - again no result. Then I increased the torque on the lock ring which helped a bit. Eventually I swapped the belt over to a spare I had and bingo - now only a tiny bit of creaking.

    The creak also now came from the front and not on every turn. Isolated that to a very slightly loose crank bolt. Now it's whisper quiet.

    So, tighten everything up and it should be fine. I think I'm going to source on of the Spot flanges and flip the rear to bring it in further on the freewheel and also swap to a steel freewheel from Hope for longevity.

    Anyway, looking forward to hitting the trails in stealth mode now......
    I too had some creaking and thought my freehub body was toast, I was getting creaking on hard pedal strokes and sometime even while pedaling lightly. it turned out it was my lockring, I snugged it up and all was quiet. I do get some occasional noise on dusty trails so I stop every now and then and run my gloves along each side and it quiets it right down.
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  7. #57
    blet drive
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    the belt will win
    Save a tree & wipe your butt with an owl.
    Thank your local Sierra Club.

  8. #58
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    Spot Belt Flange -

    I think you might want to look at these. It won't solve all your problems but they work great and are a reasonable price.

    http://www.spotbikes.com/news

    (Scroll down a little to see the flanges, how sweet is that fixie too!)

  9. #59
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    Gear inch question

    When calculating gear inches on gates belt drive, is it the same as a normal cog and ring calculation? I heard that the 46 T ring on the belt drive is smaller than the 46 t chainring.
    does the same hold true for the cogs? what is the G. I. ratio of a gates 46, 28 combo on a 29er ?

    Thanks

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by b2b2
    When calculating gear inches on gates belt drive, is it the same as a normal cog and ring calculation? I heard that the 46 T ring on the belt drive is smaller than the 46 t chainring.
    does the same hold true for the cogs? what is the G. I. ratio of a gates 46, 28 combo on a 29er ?

    Thanks

    There are tables on the Gates site that convert this for you. I run a Gates 39-24 and it is the same gear inches as a 32-19.5 chain drive of 47.5 Gear inches

    The 46-28 is roughly the same as the 39-24 except the 39 front ring will provide better chain stay clearance thus giving a better chain line. Oh....and its a little lighter too.
    "Be the Gear..."

  11. #61
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    XC legs,
    DH balls...

  12. #62
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    Thanks! I think I'll order my new Spot Brand this week. Just not sure about the color Hmmmm....

  13. #63
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    There's no mention on this thread of belt breakages so far. I take it that it's all good
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  14. #64
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    Early days for me but so far so good. Solid system with no potential issues I can see at present

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike
    There's no mention on this thread of belt breakages so far. I take it that it's all good

    The Belt so far is stronger than my Industry 9 Hubs anyway, cant stop my hub from skipping under load.
    "Be the Gear..."

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeezaGeeza
    Early days for me but so far so good. Solid system with no potential issues I can see at present
    Just caught up with this thread for the first time, sorry.
    How is it going now Dave?
    Still haven't had to touch mine since the intial teething problem back in mid Nov, I just put air in the tyres and clean it occasionally

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW
    Just caught up with this thread for the first time, sorry.
    How is it going now Dave?
    Still haven't had to touch mine since the intial teething problem back in mid Nov, I just put air in the tyres and clean it occasionally
    Hi Pete,

    The bike's going great. Been faultless so far and proving to be great fun. The fork's still a little sticky but I'm hoping it just needs bedding in, but it's nothing too noticeable on a ride.

    Thanks again for the help and delivering the bike. Maybe I'll bump into on a ride one day......

  18. #68
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    Hi folks,

    I have a question regarding belt tension.

    From what I understand, belt drive systems typically run on higher tension than a chain would. What effect does this extra tension have on the hub and bb bearings? Will they wear out faster or lead to other issues?

    I understand that with chain drives it's not recommended to run your chain too tight for this reason.

    Any thoughts?

    Cheers,

    Coach
    eh?

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by coach#1
    Hi folks,

    I have a question regarding belt tension.

    From what I understand, belt drive systems typically run on higher tension than a chain would. What effect does this extra tension have on the hub and bb bearings? Will they wear out faster or lead to other issues?

    I understand that with chain drives it's not recommended to run your chain too tight for this reason.

    Any thoughts?

    Cheers,

    Coach
    Probably have to invest in a good cassette hub like a Hadley or CK. Read mixed reviews on Industry 9 hubs with belt drives. Seen people running Hope too if you wanted something a bit more affordable.

  20. #70
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    Gotta say that my Industry 9 hubs have been faultless for 4 years with chains and I have 3 sets of them.

    When I hooked up a belt drive to my oldest set things havent been so good. It seems as though the pawls are slipping under heavy load. I would have to say that it definately is wearing out my Token BB, not sure about hub bearings though. BB is feeling crunchy after 2 months with the Gates system in place and thats with fancy, smancy teramic bearings.
    "Be the Gear..."

  21. #71
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    Fancy Smancy TGriamic Bearings

    Where did you purchase the Token Tiramic's? They have a 2yr warranty against failure. This is the first time I've heard of a set going bad. How long have you run them and have you ever service them. They may just need cleaned and fresh lube. Often the case.

    Quote Originally Posted by -Muz R-
    Gotta say that my Industry 9 hubs have been faultless for 4 years with chains and I have 3 sets of them.

    When I hooked up a belt drive to my oldest set things havent been so good. It seems as though the pawls are slipping under heavy load. I would have to say that it definately is wearing out my Token BB, not sure about hub bearings though. BB is feeling crunchy after 2 months with the Gates system in place and thats with fancy, smancy teramic bearings.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy8
    Where did you purchase the Token Tiramic's? They have a 2yr warranty against failure. This is the first time I've heard of a set going bad. How long have you run them and have you ever service them. They may just need cleaned and fresh lube. Often the case.

    I couldnt agree with you more in terms of upgrading the grease but I was surprised to see the feel of the BB deminish so rapidly.

    One other factor is the frame that Im using....its a Blacksheep with HACS ( adjustable chainstays ) and I wonder weather water is finding its way into the BB casing and doing the damage. Often after washing the bike if I stand it up on the back wheel, water will run out of the Chainstay tubes.

    Might be time to drill a small hole in the bottom of the BB casing...I find this is a must do on some of my other frames to allow any unwanted moisture or water from gathering.
    "Be the Gear..."

  23. #73
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    If you have moisture in your BB shell the bearings will soon feel rough. Drilling a weep hole is a great idea. You may still save the Tiramic bearings with a drying out and fresh lube. The TiN coated races resist corrosion well and the ceramic balls should be fine. It sounds like you have a handle on the problem. When you service the BB post the results. I'd like to know. Straightline makes a good lube for ceramic's.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy8
    If you have moisture in your BB shell the bearings will soon feel rough. Drilling a weep hole is a great idea. You may still save the Tiramic bearings with a drying out and fresh lube. The TiN coated races resist corrosion well and the ceramic balls should be fine. It sounds like you have a handle on the problem. When you service the BB post the results. I'd like to know. Straightline makes a good lube for ceramic's.
    Thanks for the tips, I will let you know how it goes.
    "Be the Gear..."

  25. #75
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    Great Thread.
    I have a Spot on order. I will post pics and thoughts.
    DT Swiss 240, 15G BB, Spot CrMo forks, Schwalbe Marathon Dureme, BB7.
    Black Chrome!

  26. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldMountain
    Great Thread.
    I have a Spot on order. I will post pics and thoughts.
    DT Swiss 240, 15G BB, Spot CrMo forks, Schwalbe Marathon Dureme, BB7.
    Black Chrome!
    I like the sound of your cranks...nearly went that option myself but I managed to snap up a pair of M970 XTR's and sell the rings to mate. Ended up getting them for $250Au which is more than half the normal rate including BB. I swapped out the BB for the Token to colour match with all my other gold bits. You will love the belt, only problem is all the questions you cop out on the trail. Best drive train Ive ever owned to date and no lube! Woohoo!
    "Be the Gear..."

  27. #77
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    I do get a bit odd with trying to get colors to 'fit'. All black, so far.
    Post a picture, please.

    Nothing gets in the way of a journey like a destination.

  28. #78
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    Spot * Aerozine * Gates

    Smallfurry's Spot belt drive.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-dsc_0077.jpg  

    Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-dsc_0076.jpg  


  29. #79
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    NEW Spot Pics

    Just in at 22.4 pounds (will be a bit less with tubeless)
    Hive 15G BB, DT Swiss wheels, Schwalbe tires.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-lr-r-01.jpg  

    Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-rear-hub-l-01.jpg  

    Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-rf-r-01.jpg  

    Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-bb-r-r-01.jpg  

    Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-rear-hub-r-01.jpg  

    Last edited by OldMountain; 04-08-2010 at 11:39 AM.

  30. #80
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    Hey, I met that bike yesterday!

    Quote Originally Posted by OldMountain
    Just in at 22.4 pounds (will be a bit less with tubeless)
    Hive 15G BB, DT Swiss wheels, Schwalbe tires.
    I rode a little with you after work yesterday. Nice bike.

    Have you heard of any frame workers with a conversion method for other frames?

    C Cow

  31. #81
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    I'm seriously considering a Gates Drive Conversion on my next SS...

  32. #82
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    Good to see you here!
    To design a modification for a horizontal dropout to be split and re-joined might only need a plate & screws.
    To convert a non removable vertical drop is more problematic. Also, the front sprocket needs clearance on the chain stay, a bend or 'dimple'. This is only a concern with the wider MT bike frames.
    OldMountain
    Last edited by OldMountain; 04-14-2010 at 07:35 AM.

  33. #83
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    Yes !

  34. #84
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    What about something like this?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-hacs-1.jpg  

    Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-hacs-2.jpg  

    Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-hacs-3.jpg  

    Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-hacs-4.jpg  


  35. #85
    PNW
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    Looks like the Black Sheep HAC system.
    To run a belt, you will have to see if the small 39t front pulley will fit near the chain stay without having a cut out for it. I'm sure BS will cut one in for you if needed

  36. #86
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    Do you know of a source for the 39 tooth pulley?

    I was told the 39 tooth front pulleys are not going to be produced (anymore). Apparently a problem with the spacing of the BCD.

    The smallest pulley currently available is 46t and this definitely causes problems with mountainbike applications. It needs a long chainstay to avoid interference from the front spocket. It will not be a problem with bikes designed for the purpose, but even then mud clearance will be compromised to gain sprocket clearance if chainstay length is to be kept within a reasonable dimension.

    (I have done a number of conversions and this is the biggest limitation I have found)
    Last edited by Velobike; 04-26-2010 at 02:24 AM.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  37. #87
    PNW
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    Gates definitely make a 39t, I know of 3 here in Australia

  38. #88
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    I have a 39t. If you put it on a Blackburn triple crank, you will have to file away a small amount of metal on the pulley so that it does not foul on the crank.

  39. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW
    Gates definitely make a 39t, I know of 3 here in Australia
    I've been trying to get one in the UK, and was told by Nicolai (who are the Gates Europe suppliers of CarbonDrive) that they would be no longer available.

    I've got in touch with Gates in USA to see if I can get one from there.

    I'm in Oz a couple of times a year - is there an Oz supplier who has them?
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  40. #90
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    Does anybody here know what is going on with Spot? I have yet to see any 2010 models in stores. I've only seen pictures.

  41. #91
    skillz to pay billz
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    they really only do custom orders, i think

  42. #92
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    Since when? They don't even have a web site.
    I boght my Spot in a shop.

  43. #93
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    The web site is a work in progress. I 'guess' that frames will be Colorado made now.
    Custom dimensions are an option as in Ti.
    Mine is a great bike. Cool video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnCe1zd_iCw

  44. #94
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    I love my Spot, too.
    I'm thinking next year I want a new one with the new rear drop outs, though.

  45. #95
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    My LBS has a few in store. I live about a half hour from denver so maybe they are just starting to show up. I just picked up a spot belt drive with the new paragon sliders, what a difference from the old setup and their crappy chain tensioner system.


    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Cheswick
    Does anybody here know what is going on with Spot? I have yet to see any 2010 models in stores. I've only seen pictures.

  46. #96
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    Someone mentioned Blacksheep HACS

    Got me a Blacksheep with the HACS and a belt.

    My Spot (which I love) was a royal pain in the ass when it came to aligning the wheel and tensioning the chain.

    For the Blacksheep build, I considered sliders, but was persuaded by some riders of sliders to go with the HACS.

    Also, not really sure if the fotos will do it justice, but check out the weld quality vs. some others.

    Very happy that I did.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-img_2300.jpg  

    Official Belt Drive Q&amp;A Thread-img_2304.jpg  

    Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid.

  47. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squirrel West
    Got me a Blacksheep with the HACS and a belt.

    My Spot (which I love) was a royal pain in the ass when it came to aligning the wheel and tensioning the chain.

    For the Blacksheep build, I considered sliders, but was persuaded by some riders of sliders to go with the HACS.

    Also, not really sure if the fotos will do it justice, but check out the weld quality vs. some others.

    Very happy that I did.
    If you don't mind me asking. How much for a Blacksheep frame like that?
    That is one spanking bike and I would ride it silly, I might add.

  48. #98
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    Is anyone making rear cogs besides gates? I would love to get a 23-T cog but gates does not make one. I think I saw somewhere that Phil Woods was making them, but I cant find any info.

  49. #99
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    It's difficult to find builders with belt drive mtb in their catalogues. This seems quite interesting (link in german):

    http://www.poison-bikes.de/frame.php...=201010113-115

    Does anyone have some info about this company?

  50. #100
    Leg Shaver
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    Quote Originally Posted by messor
    It's difficult to find builders with belt drive mtb in their catalogues. This seems quite interesting (link in german):

    http://www.poison-bikes.de/frame.php...=201010113-115

    Does anyone have some info about this company?

    Good link. The drive side drop out split looks like quite a stiff design. Dig it even more in a 29

    And their EPO T+ DH bike looks dope. Makes me want to ride a 26 again. I wonder how that linkage works.
    Why are there so many threads about cheap ass bikes?

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