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The "New" Post Your Singlespeed!

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#1,553 ·
Here's my Pereira









White Industries ENO Crank, 34T ring
Shimano UN72 BB
HBC 19T cog
Chris King ISO SS hubs (older version, with disc adapter)
Velocity Blunt rims
Paul Compact Love Levers + Avid BB7s
Thomson seatpost, stem
Syntace Vector Low Rider bar
ESI grips

Maxxis Aspens mounted on pic, but trying out a set of Stan's Ravens 29 x 2.2
 
#1,559 ·
yourdaguy said:
The Niner Carbon fork is very good, probably the best. But in your case, you might need less setback due to the fact that you are rocking the fork back and changing the steering angle. twentynineinches.com recently did a review of 29er rigid forks and you should probably read it for general info. Based on their review the OnOne carbon fork had very little set back and they did not like it as much as the Niner fork on a regular 29er (unless you wanted an all out twitchy race bike) but it might serve you well in this application.
by "set back" do you mean offset?
because offset is forward, away from the frame of the bike, not back, towards the frame.

the rake is only going to change if the new fork's longer (or shorter) then the old one.
the niner fork's 470mm is about the same as a 4" travel suspension fork.
your current rigid fork may or may not be about the same length, check the specs.
it's hard to argue that the extra quick handling is due to the extra rake or the simple fact that the niner fork is about a pound (or more) lighter than most steel rigid forks.
BUT if the niner fork's longer than your old one, then the extra offset works in your favour. (reduces the trail number, which would be higher with the increased rake due to the longer fork)

there's a couple people with the niner carbon forks on 26ers. (I'm one of them)
 
#1,560 ·
Yes I did mean offset. Offset and set back mean the same thing except in the biking world. The niner fork is equivalent to a 100 mm suspension fork sagged which (standard interpretation of 20-25% sag) would be 75--80mm suspension fork fully extended. Since he is going form a 26er front end to a 29er front end, it will raise the front end and actually change the angle of the steering tube (the frame will pivot around the back axle as you raise the front end). As you do this, you will actually change the angle of the head tube slightly as well as changing the trail. All of this will tend to slow handling. A fork with less "set back" will tend to quicken handling all things else being equal.
 
#1,566 ·
umarth said:
Nice. I'm working on a commuter meself and I hope mine comes together as well as yours.
Thanks Unmarth.

This bike has undergone many changes since I first put it together about 1 year ago.

Until recently, I was using a tensioner but found I was able to bypass the tensioner as the chain fits snuggly around.

I ride this bike to work where we have great bike facilities (secure cages, lockers, showers) but I'm now putting another SS MTB together using an old-scratched up Cro-Mo Diamond Back frame which I will be locking up at the train station / supermarket.

Good luck with your project!
 
#1,575 ·
There are some awesome bikes in this thread. Great for inspiration.:thumbsup: Here's mine I recently built up. It's been awesome fun so far. My arms feel like they're going to fall off when i hit some rockier descents, but everywhere else the rigid forks rule. Its my first rigid and ss mtb and i think the gearing (32-16) is pretty good so far. Some of the steeper climbs are a bit of a grind but for the more gradual ones it feels great. Just got these new schwalbes to replace an old set of narrow kenda's. Should make it ride even better:D
 

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