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  1. #1
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    Motobecane Outcast 29er

    Hi all,
    I did a quick search and couldn't find the info., but was wondering if anybody has the 2012 Motobecane Outcast 29er from bikesdirect? If so, wondering what size to get? I'm 5'8" w/a 30" inseam. I usually ride a 17 to 17.5" hardtail or full squishy, but understand the geometry of 29er's are a bit different. The two options are 15" or 17". What do you think?

    Thanks all.

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  3. #3
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    That's why I'm asking.

  4. #4
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    I am 5' 9" with a 32" inseam and rode a 15" Outcast. I was a little cramped in the cockpit but had good stand over. It was a fun bike, but my On One Inbred 29er is better in pretty much every way it could be.

  5. #5
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    Yea, it's sounding like I might be in the 15" zone. Sounds weird to think seeing how I'm used to getting medium's in the 26" world. Thanks for info.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zorro View Post
    Yea, it's sounding like I might be in the 15" zone. Sounds weird to think seeing how I'm used to getting medium's in the 26" world. Thanks for info.
    You might be better off looking around for another brand and get a 16" (some companies do even and some go odd for some reason) and it could be better. I got my 5' 7" wife a similar model and 15" seems to fit her well. Now I can ride it too, but it has a BMX bike feel to me.

  7. #7
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    I bet a 17 would work for you, at least as far as standover. You may need to get a few different stems to get the fit right, though.

    I have a 34 inch inseam and ride a 21-inch Outcast 29er. That is the same frame size I run on my HT 26ers. Enough standover to keep me confident on the trails...

  8. #8
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    Thanks Webb-O. I emailed bikesdirect to see what they think. I have a feeling either way I'll be messing with stem length.

  9. #9
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    5'10" and I went 17". Fits me fine..

    Sounds like you may want to size down a bit...15" would probably be best..

    .02

  10. #10
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    Thanks again for the replies. Looking at the effective top tube length, along with standover...I literally am right smack dab in the middle. I think I could make either size work w/proper stem, but wondering which side I should error on....slightly too big or slightly too small?

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    Forgot to mention that I intend on using this primarily on dirt out here in Colorado...standing and mashing goodness.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by zorro View Post
    Thanks again for the replies. Looking at the effective top tube length, along with standover...I literally am right smack dab in the middle. I think I could make either size work w/proper stem, but wondering which side I should error on....slightly too big or slightly too small?
    always go smaller imo..

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by zorro View Post
    Thanks again for the replies. Looking at the effective top tube length, along with standover...I literally am right smack dab in the middle. I think I could make either size work w/proper stem, but wondering which side I should error on....slightly too big or slightly too small?
    I prefer a little small compared to a little big.

  14. #14
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    My decision may have been made for me, looks like BD is out of 17" outcasts. Only size left is 15". Only thing concerning is that I emailed BD my measurements, and they said they'd recommend the 17", and that the 15" might run a bit too small. He obviously said size is a personal preference (as we all know). So here's the difference between the two:

    SEAT TUBE, CENTER TO TOP 15 inch 17 inch
    EFFECTIVE TOP TUBE LENGTH 22.8inch 23.6inch
    CHAIN STAY 17.8inch 17.8inch
    FORK OFFSET 46 46
    HEAD TUBE ANGLE 71 71.5
    SEAT TUBE ANGLE 73.5 73
    WHEEL BASE 42.28 42.8
    STAND OVER HEIGHT 29 31

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by zorro View Post
    My decision may have been made for me, looks like BD is out of 17" outcasts. Only size left is 15". Only thing concerning is that I emailed BD my measurements, and they said they'd recommend the 17", and that the 15" might run a bit too small. He obviously said size is a personal preference (as we all know). So here's the difference between the two:

    SEAT TUBE, CENTER TO TOP 15 inch 17 inch
    EFFECTIVE TOP TUBE LENGTH 22.8inch 23.6inch
    CHAIN STAY 17.8inch 17.8inch
    FORK OFFSET 46 46
    HEAD TUBE ANGLE 71 71.5
    SEAT TUBE ANGLE 73.5 73
    WHEEL BASE 42.28 42.8
    STAND OVER HEIGHT 29 31
    Nashbar sells a similar bike for the same money more or less ...

  16. #16
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    That's another optio SS Hack. Not to mention they are having a 20% off sales that ends today. So if anybody needs anything > $50...do it today. I got's some pondering to do. Heard really nice things about the Nashbar 29er as well. With the sale, I think it's something like $375 shipped. Just have to find fron suspension and perhaps I can get it around $500 all told. T

    Thanks again for everybody's input, does help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zorro View Post
    That's another optio SS Hack. Not to mention they are having a 20% off sales that ends today. So if anybody needs anything > $50...do it today. I got's some pondering to do. Heard really nice things about the Nashbar 29er as well. With the sale, I think it's something like $375 shipped. Just have to find fron suspension and perhaps I can get it around $500 all told. T

    Thanks again for everybody's input, does help.
    For what's worth, people seem to love the Nashbar. It's actually an old SE Stout I guess.

  18. #18
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    Oh...thanks for clearing that up. Was wondering why when I did a search on nashbar 29er, the SE Stout would appear occasionally. There was/is a mini following for that bike.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by zorro View Post
    Oh...thanks for clearing that up. Was wondering why when I did a search on nashbar 29er, the SE Stout would appear occasionally. There was/is a mini following for that bike.
    They went to steel on the stout in recent years, but now it's toast.

  20. #20
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    Well, I'm 5'9" with a 32" inseam and was riding a 17. It fit me perfect. I didn't feel cramped at all and the standover was more than enough for me. However, when leaving the Outcast and going to the Vassago I was in the same boat. They only sold 16 and 18. I opted for the smaller of the two which they actually consider at Small. I did have to buy a longer seat post which is almost maxed out (a 400mm post for crying out loud) but the stem length and everything else was spot on. I too vote to either go smaller or find a different frame that is in your exact size.

  21. #21
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    I'm 5'10 with 32" inseam and am riding the 17" outcast 29er... fits me good, but like others I concur with when in doubt, go slightly smaller...

  22. #22
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    Hey all. Thanks again for all your feedback. I went ahead and ordered the 15". Judging by the size you guys got, and me being 5'8" with a 29" inseam (30" at best), along with trying out (even if just in the parking lot) a few 29ers at my LBS, led me to think that smaller is better. 29" wheels sure do make the smalls feel bigger though. I've got a few stems to mess with to take care of any wiggle room in the cockpit. I'll update you on how she rides once I get it in case anybody else is in the same situation.

    Thanks again.

  23. #23
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    Oops, one more question: are the rotors on the 2012 really 180mm? The only immediate upgrade I'm going to do is to put some BB7's on it. Dumb question, I would assume I have to get the 180mm and NOT the 160's?

  24. #24
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    I lied, have yet another question. Can the Surly tuggnut be used on this frame? Or any other tensioner?

  25. #25
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    Nope! I considered a lot of different options and couldn't come up with anything that would work. I never really had problems with my wheel slipping mind you but once cranked down, the screws started creating indentations in the softer aluminum dropout. This became an issue if I opted to run a different size fw which required moving the wheel forward/back in the slider thus chewing up the area even further.

    My suggestion is to pick up some washers at the hardware store. My frame only came with the bolts and no washers (from what I was told by Bikes Direct is that none of them come with washers). This might help to save your frame a bit from the bolt heads grinding into it when they are being tightened down.

    I posted up a thread in the Moto section giving my review of the frame: Update on my moto review

  26. #26
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    I'll be sure to make a stop by home depot to get some washers. Thanks for the tip. I'm just full of dumb questions, but it is possible to simply just buy BB7 calipers and use stock everything else (rotors, cables, etc...)?

  27. #27
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    Yes, there is nothing wrong with the stock parts. The do weigh a little more of course. I only mentioned the other rotors because I wasn't sure if the new caliper would be coming with one. But yes, most definitely, the stock rotor will work just fine.

    If you do end up getting some squealing out of the break you can simply upgrade the pads to organic pads. They are definitely quieter. They run about $20 a set. I think I eventually put organics in my rear one at some point. I ended up running organics in both front/rear on my Elixer CR's as the squealing eventually just ate at me. You should be fine though.

    Good luck and shoot some pics up once you get it all done!

  28. #28
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    What up all,
    So I got my new outcast only to find that it had the Dart 3 fork, which means I got a 2011 rather than the 2012 I ordered and paid for. Suffice it to say I was not happy. The Dart 3 is a horrible fork, and one of the only reason's I ordered the 2012 was because of the Recon shock. Anyway, I contacted BD about it and they refunded me some $$$ due to their mistake. So now I have the liability of selling this piece of crap fork and now trying to find a new one. In the meantime, I ordered the VooDoo Zombie rigid to tide me over. I don't have any photos yet since I get the fork tomorrow. I'll let you know how she rides out here in dry and fire stricken Colorado.

    Thanks to 1SPD for the insight into the horizontal drops. I saw that there were some indentations on the soft alum, so I bought some 5/16th lock washers at home depot. These things serve the purpose of protecting the horizontal dropouts, as well as help bridge the gap when I switched out the front crank to the 33t COG (I don't run bash guards).

    So if anybody is ordering the "2012" motobecane outcast 29er, be forewarned that BD is out of 2012's and sending the 2011 model in lieu...without telling you otherwise ($100 difference BTW between the two). Thanks to everybody who chimed in. The 15" ended up being the correct choice. Could have made the 17" work, but it probably would have felt a little big.

    You all rock.

  29. #29
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    Well I am sorry to hear that you got the wrong fork but glad they gave u back some money. I am fortunate enough that I can run a rigid fork where I ride for the most part. Not sure about your situation but you might like the rigid set up.

    Good luck w/ getting the fork you want! Get some pics up when it's done and then get out there and ride!

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    Make them return your money and send you a free shipping label!

  31. #31
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    BD did have that as an option (picking it up and refunding me the $$$), but I figured the bike fits wells and between the refund and any $$$ I can get for that horrible Dart 3, I can get a pretty respectible shock. Plus I'd have to box it up again and go through that nonsence. I says screw it and try rigid as well. I got's some time to sell and buy a new fork. That's the lovely thing about upgrades.

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    Been riding a rigid Outcast 29er a couple weeks now, pretty fun, its like re-learning how to ride after being on a 5.5" FS carbon 27-speed bike for several years. Its like riding my BMX bike around the woods when I was a kid ;-) You will like rigid, climbs like a beast.

    That being said, my first real ride was cut short by the rear cones loosening up. The second by an exploding chainring bolt that ended up with a taco'd chainring. Replacing the ring and bolts with steel.

  33. #33
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    So COox13, you've been riding the front range of CO on an outcast w/it being rigid? Going to do my first ride soon over at Green Mtn. This thing sure does weigh in pretty hefty at close to 30lbs...w/the rigid! I imagine these damn tires aren't helping much. Wondering if we could run these rims tubeless?

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    Quote Originally Posted by zorro View Post
    So COox13, you've been riding the front range of CO on an outcast w/it being rigid? Going to do my first ride soon over at Green Mtn. This thing sure does weigh in pretty hefty at close to 30lbs...w/the rigid! I imagine these damn tires aren't helping much. Wondering if we could run these rims tubeless?
    Nope, I'm now a Colorado outcast, moved east a year ago. I doubt mine is 30lbs, it ain't light, but for $300 (minus the $75 they refunded for the cosmetic damage in assembly/shipping) it was a hell of a deal. You could certainly convert the rims to tubeless, I've never been a fan of ghetto tubeless, so I'll stick with tubes for now, I don't care about weight so much.

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    Yea, I've never run ghetto tubeless myself. Perhaps just a change in tire will do. Nevgals are like black licorice around here...either you love em or hate em. I'm leaning towards the hating. Slow as hell and I can think of a half dozen wheels that lock up better on loose over hard.

    PS - it is SO tacum powdery now due to the dryness.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zorro View Post
    Yea, I've never run ghetto tubeless myself. Perhaps just a change in tire will do. Nevgals are like black licorice around here...either you love em or hate em. I'm leaning towards the hating. Slow as hell and I can think of a half dozen wheels that lock up better on loose over hard.

    PS - it is SO tacum powdery now due to the dryness.
    I loved Nevegals in the front range when I rode them there on my Ibis, and I never really noticed any 'speed' difference between them and any other tire (was riding hutchisons (cannot remember which) before the nevegals. The hutch's wore out super fast, and I put on Conti Rubber Queens after the nevegals, which I loved and though had just as good traction. Went back to a nevagal (2.35) in the rear for east coast mud, maybe it is slow, but I don't care, I'm not racing and it is a 2.35, it is supposed to be slow. I dig the 2.2 nevegals on the Outcast out here in the east, and with no suspension I can run them at about 35PSI (I weigh 170 but am a very gentle rider) for extra cushiness.

  37. #37
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    I actually did my first ride last night and was very surprised at how plush the rigid fork felt. I thought for sure it was going to rattle my bones, but the steel along with low psi in the nevgals actually felt pretty good...I am a bit shocked. I can see how people run rigid's with big tubeless tires and low psi to help suck up some of the vibrations. The 29" tires are pretty damn cool. They sure can roll over lots of stuff. Didn't even notice too much in the switchbacks, probably because I did size down on the frame. Also no worries with the front tire touching my toes, probably got like 2" clearance w/my size 8 shoes. Running 33x22 and I think that's the gearing for me. Not too much walking and not too much spinning. Fun stuff.

  38. #38
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    Ok, here she is. Sorry for the horrible, blurry phone pics.

    Upgrades:

    BB7's
    400mm seat post
    Race face deus 680mm bar
    Voodoo Zombie fork
    WTB laser V saddle
    Speed 7 levers
    Easton 170mm stem
    Ritchey headset
    Cane Creek bar ends (of course)

    PS - getting the rear tire centered is PITA!!! Next frame will have a tensioner.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Outcast 29er-p1050374.jpg  

    Motobecane Outcast 29er-p1050375.jpg  


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    zorro, nice looking bike, man! Love the clean lines of steel singlespeeds. Question for you, though - why did centering the rear tire give you such problems? Just curious.

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    Double post!

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by zorro View Post
    ...Wondering if we could run these rims tubeless?
    I am running the wheelset off of my old Outcast tubeless using the gorilla tape method. It was cheap (Stan's, Stan's valves and Gorilla tape) and surprisingly easy. I can't run them at crazy low pressures though. I usually run the rear at 28lbs. and the front at 26lbs.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaHector View Post
    zorro, nice looking bike, man! Love the clean lines of steel singlespeeds. Question for you, though - why did centering the rear tire give you such problems? Just curious.
    Hector - because the horizontal drops don't have any tension, tightening them can get a bit challenging. Each side has to be lined up with even tension, or the tire will not set properly/evenly. Hard to describe, but then again it could have been my dumb arse fault.

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