View Poll Results: Which is best for racing??

Voters
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  • To run a chain tensioner?

    4 22.22%
  • To run an Eno eccentric hub?

    10 55.56%
  • Magic gear/half links?

    4 22.22%
Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
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    Most reliable conversion for racing

    I have read many questions and already have tried a bunch of things, but was curious about what those who race a lot use for converting a vertical dropout frame for a single speed. I will be using mine to race endurance races (hundies, 24 hours and such) My situation is my sponsor will be giving me a vertical dropout frame (no possibility on a horizontal dropout so that is out of the question) and I would want to run it as a SS. I have run tensioners, an Eno for a fixie on my road bike, but never a magic gear/half links. Here are my thoughts:

    Tensioners: They will make any bike be a single speed, but they can slip and lose chain tension. I do own a Soulcraft Convert and it does work quite well. I would imagine over a span of 24 hours of solid pedaling, it might slip out and cause me to lose some time stopping to fix it.

    Eno: A little expensive, but I am willing to pay the price if it is the best fit. I know it holds chain line perfect, but my concern is if I need to change a tire. I have seen the Eno brake adapters in action and the person changing the tire had a hard time getting the brakes lined up again. Is this operator error that one time or can they be tricky??

    Half link/Magic gear: I know the magic gear is kinda crap shoot, but with some half links it could work out. My thought it it might be an issue when chain stretch happens. I would assume that changing tires is quick and easy, but honestly never used a half link and don't have much thought on them....

    I know this has been discussed many, many times, but what the heck, I figured I would ask again. If it was just for riding and not racing, I wouldn't be so concerned about it. But in racing a hundie or 24 hour, time is key and I want the best "fix to the gear problem" I am having

    Thanks all

  2. #2
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    Eccentric BB conversion. Try the Forward Components piece.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schmucker
    Eccentric BB conversion. Try the Forward Components piece.
    That is another option I forgot to add when I was doing it. Sorry. I didn't know of many out there (just that trickcentric one or whatever that German company is called).

    Anyone else have any positive or negative experience with an EBB conversion??

  4. #4
    CB2
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    Jam Econo
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    When I first tried SS I went w/ a half gear/magic gear set up and it worked great. I was able to grind the front of the dropouts a tad to give me enough play to get the life of a chain out of them.
    I raced this bike successfully this way.

    That being said I voted ENO.

    If I was going to do it over again I would go ENO, since knowing me I'd end up getting the itch to build up some wheels soon enough.

  5. #5
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    ENO! I wouldn't call $150 expensive, especially when your getting a frame for free.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by watchmyback
    ENO! I wouldn't call $150 expensive, especially when your getting a frame for free.
    I do agree, the $150 will not break the bank, but it is the most expensive of the 3 options that I listed as I already own the tensioner and half links aren't that much.

  7. #7
    Happy in Happy Valley
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    I voted ENO. Gives you a choice of gearing and the ability to adjust tension for chain wear.

    The chain tensioner reduces efficiency of the drivetrain, and adds some weight. With your race goal in mind those are bad.

    Magic gear, as you said, is a crap shoot. If you can find one that works though I'd say that's a good option too.

    I wouldn't fret too much about it. If you have a setup that works, run it.
    Rigid Surly 1x1 650b--------Fixed CrossCheck--------Surly Pacer-------Salsa Ala Carte

  8. #8
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    For long events I would not use a half link. If it breaks you're pretty screwed unless you carry an extra half link. That's just one more thing to carry.

  9. #9
    808+909 = Party Good Time
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schmucker
    Eccentric BB conversion. Try the Forward Components piece.
    +1...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdplayer
    That is another option I forgot to add when I was doing it. Sorry. I didn't know of many out there (just that trickcentric one or whatever that German company is called).

    Anyone else have any positive or negative experience with an EBB conversion??

    This one - http://www.trickstuff.de/index.php?p=d116en1

    I've used one for about a year now - the FC version wasn't available then, so it was all there was. I haven't used it for racing, but it's had plenty of hard use in pretty crappy, wet conditions with lots of stiff climbing and I really can't report any serious issues with it.
    There's a review of the FC EBB here - Review: Forward Components eBB for conventional BB shells but I made some observations comparing it to the Excentriker...
    If I was using it for endurance racing I would definitely carry out my "C" spanner modification before fitting it (for ease of chain tension adjustment) , with an EBB you can use a QR on the rear wheel and getting the wheel out and refitting is as fast and easy as it can ever be - here EBB's score over the ENO hub and track ends. There are only two allen screws to slacken/tighten on the Excentriker for chain adjustment compared to (I think) ten set screws on the FC version so that's a bit less faffing around when you least feel like it !
    With either EBB conversion there's not really much to go wrong, bearing replacement is all there is to do really - that and a strip down and clean from time to time.

    Sorry if I sound a bit "evangelical" here, but I think that either would be the way to go - personally I've been surprised by just how well and reliably the Excentriker has served its intended purpose.

    Andy

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy R
    This one - http://www.trickstuff.de/index.php?p=d116en1
    "I've used one for about a year now - the FC version wasn't available then, so it was all there was. I haven't used it for racing" bla bla bla.....
    +1 on that. My Excentriker works really good.

  12. #12
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    Eno: Although you have to reset the chain tension when you remove the wheel, it's pretty fast and easy, but not as fast as a QR on a vertical dropout. Brakes are a bit fiddley to set up, and the Disc option cost a bit more. If you run cantis, you should use a shimano parralel link V or the Avid arch versions, Relatively easy to change the ratio mid-race

    Exzentriker/Forward Compontents eBB: pretty much set and forget, and is the best solution for discs. Any V-brake works fine. Both are a bit fiddley to set up at first, but you should not need to adjust the chain tension over a 24 race. They are heavier, usually require a minor mod to the crank, and changing gear ratios mid-race can be more complicated.

  13. #13
    Linoleum Knife
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    Since we're talking conversions...

    Non-spring loaded tensioner - (DMT STS)
    Pro: Super durable, unnecessary to adjust brakes with wheel change, easy to adjust chain tension.
    Con: have to carry a hex-wrench in case of flat, flat change could be more time consuming

    Eno ECC hub
    Pro: Simple to fix a flat
    Cons: Have to carry a 6mm hex for the bolts, may have to readjust disc caliper if chain stretches noticeably.

    Spring-loaded tensioner (Forte' type)
    Pro: No special tools needed to pull wheels
    Cons: Flimsy, prone to falling apart at the worst possible moment.

    I personally think the ultimate solution for SS is the adjustable sliding vertical dropouts. No muss, no fuss, no readjustments, but not a conversion.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdplayer
    I do agree, the $150 will not break the bank, but it is the most expensive of the 3 options that I listed as I already own the tensioner and half links aren't that much.
    don't forget to add the $60 for the disc adapter
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  15. #15
    Linoleum Knife
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooter916
    don't forget to add the $60 for the disc adapter
    And $40 for the Freewheel removal tool..
    And $70 for the hoop
    And $40 for the spokes and nipples
    And $20 for shipping costs
    And $15 for a cheep freewheel
    And $XX for the build if you can't do it yourself.


  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by forkboy
    And $40 for the Freewheel removal tool..
    And $70 for the hoop
    And $40 for the spokes and nipples
    And $20 for shipping costs
    And $15 for a cheep freewheel
    And $XX for the build if you can't do it yourself.

    Now you are mentioning the reasons that I said it was the most expensive of the options.

  17. #17
    Linoleum Knife
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdplayer
    Now you are mentioning the reasons that I said it was the most expensive of the options.
    Yep - I just built up a wheelset with it last weekend.

    Eno ECC Disc R, WI MI6 Front, XC717 rims, DT Revolution spokes and alloy nips.

    Not cheap.... but I did manage to save a few pennies here and there.

    Haven't gotten a chance to ride it yet....

    In retrospect, running the DMR tensioner this season would have been a perfectly fine, durable, and cheap solution.
    But it's winter, and I like building things...
    And a tensioner will never look as "cool".

    In any race, you're pretty much F&*)ked if you flat, and even more so on an SS. That was my single biggest concern in 24 hrs in the Old Pueblo last month. I don't do tubeless or sealant stuff, and ended up putting in the Slime tire liners. I rode through all kinds of cactus passing people on the night laps, and didn't have a single problem.

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